Saturday, December 29, 2018

Caribbean Queen Hooded Cardigan Short and Long version

Caribbean Queen Hooded Cardigan Short and Long version


By: Annoo Crochet Designs


Video Link: (short version) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8xUiCfkEzVE&t=264s(longer version add on) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u38ismN6o_0
Skill level: Beginner/Intermediate
Gauge: 
working in pattern​ ​6 rows by 3 groups of 4dc cluster and 2 ch sp= 4inchesSize: XSmall (Small, Medium, Large, XLarge, 2X)You will need:
Short Version:
3 (3, 4, 5, 5, 6) skeinsLong Version: an additional 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2) skeins of
Red Heart Unforgettable (worsted weight #4) Color: Tidal
Fiber: 100% Acrylic
Ball weight: 3.5oz/100g/270yds Crochet hook 6mm/J, 8mm/L
Tapestry needle Scissors
Stitches Used:
Ch: chain
Sc: single crochet Dc: double crochet Sl st: slip stitch

Instructions:
Back Panel
With your 8mm hook ch 59 (59, 63, 63, 67, 67) change to smaller hook
Row 1: 3dc in the 3rd ch from hook, *ch1, sk 3ch, 4dc in the 4th ch* repeat across leaving the last 4 ch, ch1, dc in the last ch, turn your work. You will have 14 (14, 15, 15, 16, 16) 4dc clusters
Row 2-28 (-30, -32, -34, -34, -36): ch2, in the first ch sp make 3 dc, *ch1, 4 dc in next ch1 sp* repeat from *to* across, ch1 dc in the top of the ch2 from the previous row, turn your work.
Fasten off on the last row.
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Front Panels (make 2)Follow the instructions for the back panel for​ Rows 1-13 (-14, -15, -16, -16, -17) Fasten off at the end of
the last row, make a second panel for the front.
Assemble the shoulder seams:
You will lay your panels vertical and join the front and the back together leaving 2 rows in the middle untouched for the neck opening.


You can join the panels with either your tapestry needle or slip stitch the 2 panels together matching stitch for stitch. You will have 2 rows in the middle of the back panel untouched, this is your neck opening.
Sleeves:
With your work right side facing you, you are going to join your yarn to your work like so,
From the seam you will count 4(4, 5, 5, 5, 5) ch1 spaces, in the 5th is were you will join your yarn, using the 6mm hook
(For all sizes but the 2X, When you reach the seam be sure to skip it as there is no ch1 sp between the front and back panel seam, continue to make your 4dc in the next ch1 sp after the seam)
Row 1: ch2, 3dc in the same sp, *ch1, 4dc in next ch1 sp* repeat *to* across until you have 7 (7, 9, 9, 9) groups of 4dc clusters, ch1, in the next ch sp make a dc, turn your work. Continue to Row 2 below.
Row 1 (2x ONLY): ch2, 3dc in the same sp, *ch1, 4dc in next ch1 sp* repeat *to* across until you reach the seam, ch1, in between the seam make 4 dc, repeat from *to* until you have a total of 10 groups of 4dc clusters, ch1, in the next ch sp make a dc, turn your work. Continue to Row 2 below.
Row 2-24 (-24, -26, -26, -28): ​​c​ h2, 3dc in ch1 sp, *ch1, 4dc in next ch1 sp* repeat from *to* across, ch1 dc in the top of the ch2 from the previous row, turn your work.
Before you fasten off your work at the end of your last row, try on your sweater, you may need to increase the amount of rows or decrease them depending on your arm length. Once you reach the length you wish then fasten off.
Repeat these same steps for the second sleeve.
Assemble the Sleeves and Side Seams:
Fold your work so wrong side is facing your, with your yarn and hook or tapestry needle you will join the seams together starting at the wrist and working your way up the sleeve to the under arm, down to the waist of the sweater. Repeat the same thing for the other side and turn your work right side facing you when you are done.
Hood

With your yarn and 6mm hook you are going to count 5, (5, 6, 6, 6, 7) ch 1 spaces, join your yarn in that ch1 sp,
Row 1: ch2, 3dc in the same ch1 sp, *ch1, 4dc in next ch1 sp* repeat from *to* until you reach the shoulder seam, ch1, 4dc in the seam, repeat *to* across the back until you reach the next shoulder seam, ch1, 4dc in the seam, repeat *to* down the front panel until you have 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 6) groups of 4dc clusters, ch1, dc in next ch 1 sp, turn your work. You will have a total of 12 ,(12, 14, 14, 14, 16) groups of 4dc.
Row 2-18 (-20, -20, -20, -22, -22): ch2, 3dc in the ch sp, *ch1, 4dc in the next ch1 sp* repeat from *to* across, ch1, dc in the top of the ch2 sp, turn your work.
You can fasten off now if you are going to use your tapestry needle to sew your seam, continue below.
Turn your work wrong side facing you and fold your hoodie in half, you will now join the 2 halves together either using your hook or your tapestry needle, be sure to match stitch for stitch along the top, fasten off if you are using your hook to seam closed the hood, hide all loose tails.
The short version is complete, if you want to add a border but not the length scroll down to the bottom to the Picot Border.
Long Version:
With your 6mm hook you will join your yarn to the bottom left corner, you will be working in the sides of the rows for the bottom edge, working in the ch2 space.
Row 1: ch2, 3dc in the same sp, *ch1, 4dc in next ch sp*, repeat from *to* across, ch1, dc in the corner to end your row, turn your work
Row 2-8 (-8, -11, -11, -13, -13): ch2, 3dc in same sp, *ch1, 4dc in next ch sp* repeat from *to* across, ch1, dc in top of the ch2 from previous row, turn your work.
Try on your sweater as you go, you may want more rows for length for your size or may need less rows.
Once you’ve reached your desired length, you can either fasten off and leave your sweater as is or continue below But do not Fasten off if you are adding the border.
Picot Border:
If you are making the Shorter Version you will need to join your yarn to the bottom corner using the 6mm hook, for Longer Version just continue below, no need to join your yarn.
Round 1: ch1, 3sc in the corner, you will be working in the sides of the rows again, this time you will pick up 2sc per row, so 2sc in the dc rows, and 2sc in the ch sp, continue to do that all along your opening until you reach the other bottom corner of your sweater, make 3 sc in the corner, sc in each st as it presents itself along the bottom until you reach the first sc you made, sl st with it. Do not Turn your Work.
Round 2: *ch3, sl st in the base of the ch3, sc in next 3st* repeat from *to* around the opening and the bottom of your sweater, sl st with the first st and fasten off.
Sleeve Border:
With your 6mm hook and yarn join at the ch space after the seam,Round 1: ch1, sc in each st around until you reach the first sc you made, sl st with it.
Round 2: ch1, sc in the same sp, *ch3, sl st in the base of the ch3, sc in the next 3st* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the first sc. Fasten off.
Repeat for the other sleeve.

Make sure to Hide all Loose tails and you are done my friends!
Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 










All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo



Wednesday, December 12, 2018

Braided Oversized Sweater Dress

Braided Oversized Sweater Dress
By: ​​Annoo Crochet Designs


Video Link: click here
Skill level:​​ Intermediate
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Gauge: ​​4 inches = 8sc by 9 rowsSize: Small (Medium/Large, XL/2X)
This Dress is meant to be oversized, if it’s too large for your taste then you can just drop down to the next size.
You will need:
7 (7, 9) skeins of Lion Brand Scarfie yarn (bulky weight #5 yarn) Color: Taupe
Fiber: 78% Acrylic, 22% Wool
Ball weight: 5.30oz/150 g/312yds Crochet hook 8mm/L
Scissors Tapestry needle Stitch markers
Stitches Used:
Sl st: slip stitch
Ch: chain
Sc: single crochet
Dc: double crochet
FPTR: Front post Treble Crochet
FPDC: Front post Double Crochet
BPDC: Back Post Double Crochet
Sc2tog: single Crochet 2 together
BPDC2Tog: Back Post Double Crochet 2 Together FPDC2TOG: Front Post double crochet 2 together

Instructions:
Make a slip knot and chain 34 (46, 56)
Row 1: ​​dc in the 3rd ch from your hook, dc in each chain across, turn your work. You will have 32(44, 54) dc
Row 2: ​​ch2, FPDC, in each st across, turn your work. You will have 32(44, 54) FPDC.Row 3: ​​ch2, BPDC around each of the FPDC from previous row, turn your work. You will have 32(44, 54)
BPDC.Row 4 & 5: ​​Repeat rows 2 & 3
Row 6: ​​ch1, sc in each st but you will increase 18 (22, 28) stitches evenly along this row, turn you work. You will have 50 (66, 82) st.
Row 7: ​​ch1, *sc in next 2 st, dc in next 6 st* repeat from *to* across ending with sc in last 2 st, turn your work.
Row 8: ​​ch1, sc in the next 2st, *(Over the next 6dc you will be working around the post only), skip the first 2st, Now is where it may get tricky you will want to make your next 2 FPTR in the 2 skipped st, you will work behind the FPTR you just made, just push them down slightly so you can get to the post of the skipped st, Make your first FPTR around the post of the first skipped st and repeat again for the second, make 2 FPDC around the post of the next 2 dc, sc in the next 2 s* repeat from *to* across. Turn your work, you will have 6 (8, 10) braided cables.


Row 9: ​​Ch1, sc in each st across, turn your work. 50 (66, 82) st
Row 10: ​​ch1, sc in the first 2 st, *(you will be skipping the sc from the previous row when working the cable over the next 6 st), FPDC around the post of the FPTR from Row 8 skipping the middle 2 st, you will FPTR around the post of the FPDC from row 8, now instead of working behind your FPTR like you did in Row 8 you will work the 2 skipped st from the front of your work, crossing over the 2 FPTR you just made, working a FPTR in the first skipped st from Row 8, make another FPTR in the next st, you will now work a sc in the 2 sc from row 9* repeat from *to* across. Turn your work.
Row 11: ​​ch1, sc in each st across, turn your work. 50 (66, 82) st.Rows 12-53 (12-57, 12-61): ​​Repeat rows 8-11
Test your fit, this should just sit across the center of your breasts about nipple height, if the dress is too long for you or not long enough decrease the rows by 4 or repeat rows 8-11 as many times as needed to get length. Be sure to mark how many rows you do as you will need to add or decrease from the back.
NOTE:​​ Row 8 will be worked the same except you will be working around the post of the previous FP st from the Row 10 and not the dc as stated in Row 8, and as you did for Row 10 you will skip the sc from previous row when working the cable over the 6st.
Tip:​​ if the 2 middle stitches are slanted to the right you would skip the first 2 FP st from the rows below, if the 2 middle stitches are slanted to the left you would make FPDC in the first 2 st
V-Neck:
Grab your stitch maker and place in the 25th (33rd, 41st) stitch from the right hand side of your work. You will have 4 cables on either side.
Row 54 (58, 62): ​​Repeat in pattern, so you should be repeating Row 8 at this point, but only work on the 33 st, you will end with 1 sc not 2. Turn your work. 25 (33, 41) st
Row 55 (59, 63): ​​ch1, Sc2tog, sc in each st across, 24 (32, 40) st in total, turn your work.
Row 56 (60, 63):​​ Repeat Row 10, you will end with the 6 st of the braid, there will be no sc at the end.
Row 57 (61, 64): ​​ch1, sc2tog, sc in each st across, 23 (31, 39) st in total, turn your work.
Row 58 (62, 65): ​​Repeat Row 8, you will work the last braid on 5 st, ending with 1 FPDC instead of 2, turn your work.
Row 59 (63, 66): ​​ch1, sc2tog, sc in each st across, 22 (30, 38) st in total, turn your work.Row 60 (64, 67): ​​Repeat Row 10, you will end the last braid with 4 st of the braid instead of 5 like in Row
58 (62, 65), Turn your work.Row 61 (65, 68): ​​ch1, sc2tog, sc in each st across, 21 (29, 37)st in total, turn your work.
Rows 62-69 (66-73, 69-76): ​​repeat Rows 58-61 (62-65, 65-68), continuing to decrease on the sc rows until you have 17(25, 33) st left.
For size Small Fasten off after Row 69, for sizes M/L, XL/2X continue below. Row (74-77, 77-80): ​​Repeat Rows 8-11, Fasten off.
Second half of the V-neck:
You will join your yarn to the sc just after the 25th (33rd, 41st) st from the first half of the V neck (you skipped 25(33, 41) st for the first half, you will join your yarn in the 26, 34, 42 stitch)
Row 54 (58, 62): ​​sc in the same st as your join. Instead of starting your row with 2 sc your row started with 1 sc, Work in pattern, you should be repeating Row 8.
*Note: ​​because you are working on the other half of the V-neck your work in now reversed, you will be working your rows slightly different from the first half. You will end your sc rows with a decrease and begin your cable rows on the decrease neck edge having less stitches to start with. But no worries, it’ll get explained below.
Row 55 (59, 63): ​​ch1, sc in each st across leaving the last 2 st untouched, Sc2tog, 24 (32, 40) st in total, turn your work.
Row 56 (60, 64):​​ Repeat Row 10, you will begin with the 6 st of the braid, there will be no sc at the at the beginning.
Row 57 (61, 65): ​​ch1, sc in each st across leaving the last 2 st untouched, Sc2tog, 23 (31, 39)st in total, turn your work.
Row 58 (62, 66): ​​Repeat Row 8, you will work the First braid on 5 st, starting with 2 FPTR, then crossing behind and making 1 FPTR, instead of 2, work to the end in pattern (Row 8) turn your work.
Row 59 (63, 67):​​ch1, sc in each st across leaving the last 2 st untouched, Sc2tog, 22 (30, 38) st in total, turn your work.
Row 60 (64, 68): ​​Repeat Row 10, you will begin the First braid with 4 st of the braid instead of 5 like in Row 62, complete the row and turn your work.
Row 61 (65, 69): ​​ch1, sc in each st across leaving the last 2 st untouched, Sc2tog, 21(29,37)st in total, turn your work.
Rows 62-69 (66-73, 69-76): ​​repeat Rows 58-61 (62-65, 65-68), continuing to decrease on the sc rows until you have 17 (25,33) st left.
For size Small Fasten off after Row 69, for sizes M/L, XL/2X continue below. Row (74-77, 77-80): ​​Repeat Rows 8-11, Fasten off.
Back of the Dress:
You will repeat rows 1-11 for the front of the dress,
Rows 12-69 (12-77, 12-80): 
​​Repeat Rows 8-11, Fasten off your work at the end of Row 77.
Time to Assemble the Shoulders:
With your front and back panels Right sides facing each other, Wrong side is facing you, line up the seams for the front and back shoulders.
You will want to either sl st or using your tapestry needle sew the seams together. I like to Slip stitch mine, making sure to match stitch for stitch from the front and back sl st across the 17 (25, 34) st of the front and fasten off, repeating the same thing for the other side.
Sleeves:
With your work flat in front of you, right side facing you, go to the seam of the shoulder and count 17 (17, 21) rows, Join your yarn.
Row 1: ​​ch1, sc the same st, sc in each of the next 16 (16, 20) rows, sc in the next 17 (17, 21) rows, you will have 34 (34, 42) sc, turn your work.
Row 2: ​​ch1, *sc in next 2 st, dc in next 6 st* repeat from *to* until you reach the last 2 st, sc in each of them, turn your work.
Row 3-36: ​​repeat rows 8-11 of the front of the dress, working on 4 (4, 5) cables.
Try the dress on to double check the sleeve length for your size, everyone’s arm length is different. The Length should just hit your wrist, if it doesn’t then repeat the 4 rows of the cable pattern until it does.
The Wrist Band:
Row 37: 
​​ch2, dc in each st across, 34 (34, 41)st turn your work.Row 38: ​​ch2, *BPDC2Tog, BPDC* repeat from *to* across, turn your workRow 39: ​​ch2, FPDC2Tog, all along your row, turn your work.Row 40: ​​ch2, BPDC all along your work. Fasten off.
Repeat the sleeve for the other side.

Assemble Sleeves and Side seams:
Fold your work so the wrong sides are facing you and all the seams are even. You will now join your yarn to the sleeve at the wrist and match stitch for stitch and sl st down the length of the sleeve, then you will continue to sl st the sides of your dress together matching stitch for stitch until you reach the bottom of the dress opening. Fasten off and repeat for the other side. Turn your dress right side facing you, the last step is the Collar of the dress.
The Collar:
Row 1: ​​With your hook and yarn, join to the back of the neck at the corner, ch2, dc in each st along the back of the neck, you will now dc in the V-neck, pick up 14 (18, 18) dc along one side of the neck and pick up 14 (18, 18) Dc along the other side of your V-Neck, join with the ch2.
Row 2: ​​ch2, dc in each st around your neck, sl st with the ch2 and fasten off.
Sew in all the loose tails and you are done with your Braided Oversized Sweater dress!

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 










All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Saturday, December 8, 2018

Easy Circular Handbag Crochet TutorialBy: ​​Annoo Crochet Designs


Video Link: ​​Click here
Skill level: ​​Beginner/Intermediate (you will need some sewing skills if lining your bag)
You will need:
2 skeins totaling 320yds of Macrame Cord 1-1.5mm thickness in your color choice Crochet hook 6mm/K
Tapestry needle
Scissors

2 handles of your choice Fabric to line the Handbag 2 Stitch marker
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Stitches Used:
Sc: single crochet
Sl st: slip stitch BLO: Back loop only

Instructions:
With your hook and yarn/cord make a magic circle,Round 1: ch1, 8 sc in the magic circle, pull the end yarn to close the circle,Round 2: 2sc in each st around (16 sc in total) remember to place your stitch marker on the first st of every new roundRound 3: *2sc in next st, 1 sc in next st* repeat from *to* around (24 sc in total)Round 4: *2sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 st* repeat from *to* around (32sc in total)Round 5: *2sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 st* repeat from *to* around (40sc in total)Round 6: *2sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 st* repeat from *to* around (48 sc in total)Round 7: *2sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 st* repeat from *to* around (56 sc in total)Round 8: *2sc in next st, 1 sc in next 6 st* repeat from *to* around (64 sc in total)Round 9: *2sc in next st, 1 sc in next 7 st* repeat from *to* around (72 sc in total)Round 10: *2sc in next st, 1 sc in next 8 st* repeat from *to* around (80 sc in total)Round 11: *2sc in next st, 1 sc in next 9 st* repeat from *to* around (88 sc in total)Round 12: *2sc in next st, 1 sc in next 10 st* repeat from *to* around (96 sc in total)
Side of the bag:
Row 1: 
BLO, sc in next 71, place a st marker on the 71 st, then count 25 st and place a second stitch marker.Row 2-5: ch1, sc in each of the 71 st, turn your work. You can fasten off here or if you want your bag to be wider than just work a few more rows of sc until it is the desired thickness you want for your bag.
Second Circle Panel:
You will want to repeat Rounds 1-12, Do Not Fasten off, you will now join this Panel to the sides of the first panel.
Assemble
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You will join your work wrong sides together, sl st the 2 sides together through the back loops only on both panels, over the 71 st of the side of the bag. Leaving 25 st for the opening of the bag. Fasten off. Hide all loose tails.
Finishing Touches:
Now you will add your handles to the bag, line them up where you want to place them and attach them how you want to attach them either by sewing or crocheting depending on your handles and placement.
Now you will want to line your purse with your fabric. Once you are done with that your Handbag is ready to go!!!

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 










All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo