Thursday, February 15, 2018

Crochet Cable Cardigan Tutorial

Crochet Cable Cardigan Tutorial
By Annoo Crochet Designs




Click here for Video Tutorial

Skill level: Intermediate
Size: S (M/L, L/XL, XXL) 
The Length for the written pattern is suitable for someone 5ft 3 inches, but it can easily be shortened or made longer by working more rows, tips are throughout the pattern for help.
You will need:
5-6 (6, 7, 8) skeins of Loops and Threads Chameleon yarn (#4, worsted, this is a thicker worsted) 
Color: Blueberry
Fiber: 62% Acrylic, 38% Polyester
Ball weight: 7oz/200g/439yds
OR
5-6 (6, 7, 8) skeins of Loops and Threads Barcelona (#5, bulky weight, this is a lighter Bulky weight) Color: Onyx
Fiber: 100% Acrylic
Ball Weight: 7oz/200g/328yds Crochet hook 6mm/J
  page1image1680400
Tapestry needle 
Scissors
Stitch marker

Gauge:
6 sc x 6 rows of sc= 2 inches
Stitches Used:
Sc: single crochet
Dc: double crochet
FPDC: Front post Double crochet 

FPTR: Front post Treble crochet 



Instructions:
This beautiful Cable Cardigan starts off with a wider bottom and once you get to the hip area you will decrease slightly to thin it out a bit at the waist. The length for this is to fit just at the knee. Below will be help if you have a longer torso or just want your cardigan to be longer or shorter. You can do so by just making less or more rows at each of the 2 next sections, don’t worry I’ll walk you through it in those sections.
This pattern is worked in a multiple of 8+2

Bottom to Hip Sections:
With your yarn and crochet hook make a slip knot and chain 123 (155,155,187)
Row 1: in the second chain from the hook sc, sc in each chain across. Turn your work. 122 (154,154,186) sc
Row 2: ch1, sc in each st across. Turn your work. 122 (154,154,186)
Row 3: ch1, sc in the first 2sc, *1dc in the next 6st, 1sc in next 2st* repeat from *to* across your work. Turn your work. This row is the base for your cable, you should have 15 (19, 19, 23) dc sections with 2sc in between each.
Row 4: ch1, sc in the first 2st, *(Over the next 6dc you will be working around the post only), skip the first 2st, Now is where it may get tricky you will want to make your next 2 FPTR in the 2 skipped st, you will work behind the FPTR you just made, just push them down slightly so you can get to the post of the skipped st, Make your first FPTR around the post of the first skipped st and repeat again for the second,
make 2 FPDC around the post of the next 2 dc, sc in the next 2 s* repeat from *to* across. Turn your work.
Row 5: ch1, sc in each st across. Turn your work
Row 6: ch1, sc in the first 2 st, *(you will be skipping the sc from the previous row when working the cable over the next 6 st), FPDC around the post of the FPTR from Row 4 skipping the middle 2 st, you will FPTR around the post of the FPDC from row 4, now instead of working behind your FPTR like you did in Row 4 you will work the 2 skipped st from the front of your work, crossing over the 2 FPTR you just made, working a FPTR in the first skipped st from Row4, make another FPTR in the next st, you will now work a sc in the 2 sc from row 5* repeat from *to* across. Turn your work
Row 7: ch1, sc in each st across. Turn your work. 
Rows 8-49: Repeat rows 4-7
NOTE: Row 4 you will skip the sc from Row 7 and making your cable stitches around the post of the 6 stitches from Row 6.
Tip: To help with knowing what row you may be on.
If the 2 middle stitches are slanted to the right you would skip the first 2 FP st from the rows below ( you will work a Row 4)


If the 2 middle stitches are slanted to the left you would make FPDC in the first 2 st (you will work Row 6)
 
NOTE FOR ALL SIZES:
This section of your cardigan should fit from just above your hip to just at your knee. If it sits in this area then continue on to the next sections of the cardigan below. If it is too long or not long enough then remove or add extra rows, being sure to end with a sc row once you are happy with the length for the hip and knee section move on to the Waist and underarm section below.
Waist to underarm section:
Row 50: ch1, sc in the first 2 st, work the cable pattern over the next 6 st, *over the next 2 sc, sc2tog, work the cable pattern over the next 6 st* repeat from *to* across, you will have 2sc left, sc in each of them and turn your work. You will have 114,(136,136,164)st
Row 51-81: continue with pattern only 1 sc between your cable except for the beginning and end of your row where you will have 2 sc.
We are now done with this section and will move on to working on the back and front panels as well as the sleeve opening. You will now want to see if the length is where you want it, the length right now should fit just under your arm to the knee. Again just make more or less rows to get the right length, just remember to end on a sc row.
First Front Panel:
Row 82:
ch1, sc in the first 2 st, work in pattern over the next 3 (4, 4, 5) cables, once you reach the end
of your 3rd, (4th, 4th, 5th) cable make 1 sc in the sc after the cable. Turn your work.
Rows 83-90 (83-92, 83-94,83-96): Continue with pattern making 2 sc at the beginning only of the cable rows and 1 sc in between and at the end of the row. Turn your work. Ending with a sc row.
Row 91 (93, 95, 97): ch1, sc2tog, work in pattern as usual.
Rows 92-100, (94-102, 96-106, 98-110): continue in pattern working 1 sc at the beginning and end as
well as 1 in between each cable. Fasten off.
Second Front Panel:
You will want to count 3, (4,4,5) cables in from the front edge, you will then join your yarn in the sc after the 3rd, (4th, 4th, 5th) cable.
Row 82: ch1, sc in the first st, work in pattern over the next 3 (4, 4, 5) cables, once you reach the end of your 3rd, (4th, 4th, 5th) cable make 1 sc in the last 2 sc. Turn your work.
Rows 83-90 (83-92, 83-94,83-96): Continue with pattern making 1 sc at the beginning only of the cable rows and 1 sc in between and 1 sc in the last 2 st at the end of the row. Turn your work. Ending with a sc row.
Row 91 (93, 95, 97): ch1, work in pattern as usual until you reach the last 2 sc, sc2tog. Turn your work. Rows 92-100, (94-102, 96-106, 98-110): continue in pattern working 1 sc at the beginning and end as
well as 1 in between each cable.
Fasten Off.
Back Panel:
With your work in front of you, you will count from the unworked st 7sc from the first front panel you worked, joining your yarn in the 7th st with a sl st.

Row 82: Work in pattern until you reach 6 st (cable) before the second front panel, you will leave those 6st untouched. You should end with a sc after your last cable. You will have 7 (9,9,11) cables for the back, Turn your work.
Rows 83-100, (83-102, 83-106, 83-110): Work in pattern until you reach the end, working 1 sc at the beginning, in between each cable and at the end of your cable rows.
DO NOT FASTEN OFF.
Now lay your work so the right sides are facing you, fold the front panels over so they match the back, you will now sl st together the front panels to the back, working on 1 front panel at a time. Matching st for st from the front and back sl st your way along till you reach the end of the front panel. Fasten off and join your yarn to the other side and sl st together the other front panel with the back panel. Fasten off and hide all loose tails. Turn your work so it is right side facing you.

Sleeves: (For All Sizes)
You will be working in the round for the sleeves.
Round 1:You will now join your yarn to any of the 6 stitches you skipped when working the back, join with a slip st, ch1 and sc in the same st, sc in each st until you reach the side of the row, you will work 1

sc per row, when you reach the shoulder seam you will want to make sure you work in the side of the rows down the other side being sure to add the same amount of st, when you reach back to the first st you made sl st with it.
Round 2: ch1, sc in each in the first st, place a st maker, sc in each st around until you reach the st marker, (be sure to take it off and move it up as you go from now on out you will work in the round.)
Round 3: sc in the next 4st, sc2tog do that around your work until you reach the stitch marker Rounds 4-51 or until you have the desired length you want your sleeve: Sc in each st around,
remember to move the stitch marker up as you go. After your last Round you will turn your work,
Border edge: sc in each st around, sl st with the first st and fasten off, hide all loose tails.
You will want to repeat these rows for the second sleeve. Also make sure you have the same amount of stitches as you did for the first sleeve for your first round. Once you are done with your sleeves it’s time to move on to the border of your sweater. You are almost done!!
Border:
Row 1: With your work right side facing you, join your yarn to the bottom corner of the front edge. Join with a sl st and ch1, you will now sc in each of the sides of the row until you reach the back, sc in each of the st as they present themselves, sc down the other side of the work again picking up 1sc for each row until you reach the other bottom edge. Turn your work.
Rows 2-5: ch1, sc in each st across. Turn your work. You can make your border wider or thinner, just by making or not making as many rows.
DO NOT FASTEN OFF, for this last row you will work the bottom edge, make another sc in the last st you just made, then continuing to sc in the bottom stitches, until you reach the other corner edge, sl st with the sc and fasten off. 



Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 







All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Cable Pillow Case Cover

Cable Pillow Case Cover  Tutorial
By Annoo Crochet Designs


Click here for Video Tutorial

Skill Level: intermediate
Size: Fits 16x16 inch pillow form


You will need:
3 skeins of Lion Brand Scarfie yarn (#5 bluky weight) 
Color: Cream/Taupe
Fiber: 78% Acrylic, 22% Wool
Ball weight: 5.3 oz/150g/312yds 
Crochet hook 6mm/J
Pillow form, 16x16 inches 
Tapestry needle
Scissors

page1image1701824
Stitches Used:
Sc: single crochet
Dc: double crochet
FPDC: Front post Double crochet 

FPTR: Front post Treble crochet


Instructions:
This cable stitch is worked in a multiple of 8+2
With your yarn and 6mm hook, make a slip knot and chain 51
Row 1: sc in the second chain from your hook, sc in each ch all along. You will have 50sc, turn your work
Row2: ch1, sc in each st across, turn your work.
Row 3: ch1, sc in the next 2 st, *dc in each of the next 6st, sc in the next 2*, repeat from *to* across your work. Turn your work
Row 4: ch1, sc in the next 2st, *(Over the next 6dc you will be working around the post only), skip the first 2st, Now is where it may get tricky you will want to make your next 2 FPTR in the 2 skipped st, you will work behind the FPTR you just made, just push them down slightly so you can get to the post of the skipped st, Make your first FPTR around the post of the first skipped st and repeat again for the second, make 2 FPDC around the post of the next 2 dc, sc in the next 2 s* repeat from *to* across. Turn your work, you will have 6 braided cables.
(See 7:33 min mark for more help if needed)


 

 
Working a FPTR
 
Row 5: ch1 sc in each st across, 50sc in total. Turn your work.
Row 6: ch1, sc in the first 2 st, *(you will be skipping the sc from the previous row when working the cable over the next 6 st), FPDC around the post of the FPTR from Row 4 skipping the middle 2 st, you will FPTR around the post of the FPDC from row 4, now instead of working behind your FPTR like you did in Row 4 you will work the 2 skipped st from the front of your work, crossing over the 2 FPTR you just made, working a FPTR in the first skipped st from Row4, make another FPTR in the next st, you will now work a sc in the 2 sc from row 5* repeat from *to* across. Turn your work
(see the 17:07 min mark for more help)
Row 7: ch1 sc in each st across, 50sc in total. Turn your work. Row 8-105: Repeat rows 4-7. Do Not Fasten Off.
NOTE: Row 4 will be worked the same except you will be working around the post of the previous FP st from the row 6 and not the dc as stated, and as you did for Row 6 you will skip the sc from previous row when working the cable over the 6st.
Tip: if the 2 middle stitches are slanted to the right you would skip the first 2 FP st from the rows below, if the 2 middle stitches are slanted to the left you would make FPDC in the first 2 st
Assembly:
If you want, you can sew your case closed. If you do now is the time you will fasten off, otherwise continue below and use the slip stitch method as I did.
You will want to fold your work in half with the wrong side facing you so you no longer have a rectangle but a square, next you will want to sl st your case together matching st for st across, once you have reached the corner you will sl st your cases side together by matching row for row, making 1 sl st per row, once you reach the end and the 2 sides of your case are together fasten off. You will have 1 side left to assemble, take your tapestry needle and hide all loose tails now. With your 6mm hook join your

yarn to the corner of your work and you will want to sl st your case together matching row for row making 1 sl st per row, you will not work all the way across but work 2/3 of your work, STOP and DO NOT FASTEN OFF, turn your work right side to so the cables are facing you, you will now stuff your pillow form into the case through the opening you left, you will now sl st the opening closed. Fasten off and hide loose tails.
As an alternative option to close your 3rd side would be to sew a zipper to the opening, you will need some sewing skills for that. Either option you choose I am sure your Cable Cover is going to look Gorgeous!!!

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 







All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo