Monday, August 14, 2017

High Low Hem Crochet Mermaid Dress

High Low Hem Crochet Mermaid Dress
By: Annoo Crochet Designs


Video link: Click here
Triangle Top: from the 2:16 minute mark to the 9:50 minute mark

https://youtu.be/Ueuaofvm7iM?t=135

You will need:
800 grams of Berroco Modern Cotton Dk (DK weight yarn) 100g/3.5oz/209yds 60%Pima cotton,
40%Modal Rayon per hank
Color: #1616 (Elms)
Crochet hook 2.75mm
Scissors
Tapestry needle
Stitch marker

Stitches Used:
Sc: single crochet
Hdc: Half double crochet
Dc: double crochet
Tr: Treble crochet

This dress is for a size Small/Medium but you can modify it to fit any size. Just remember your stitch
count should be divisible by 16. The dress is made from the top down and is more for an
intermediate/expert crocheter.
Instructions:
Make 2 triangle tops

With your 2.75mm hook and yarn ch 21
Row 1: hdc in the 2nd ch from hook, hdc in each of the next 18ch, in the last ch make 2 hdc, ch2, 2hdc,
hdc along the other side of the chain total of 18 hdc. Total of 21hdc on each side of the ch2.
Row 2: Ch1 and turn your work, hdc in the first st, 1 hdc in the next 20 st, in the ch2 space make 2hdc,
ch2, 2hdc, work 21 hdc across to the end. Total of 23hdc on each side of the ch2
Row 3: ch1 turn your work, hdc in the first st, 1 hdc in the next 22 st, in the ch2 space make 2hdc, ch2,
2hdc, 1hdc in the next 23 hdc. Total of 25hdc on each side of the ch2.

Row 4: ch1 turn your work, hdc in the first st, 1 hdc in the next 24 st, in the ch2 space make 2hdc, ch2,
2hdc, 1 hdc in the next 25 hdc. Total of 27hdc on each side of the ch2.
Row 5: ch1 turn your wok, hdc in the first st, 1 hdc in the next 26 hdc, in the ch2 sp make 2hdc, ch2,
2hdc, 1hdc in the next 27 hdc. Total of 29hdc on each side of the ch2.
Row 6: ch1 turn your work, hdc in the first st, 1hdc in the next 28hdc, in the ch2 sp make 2hdc, ch2,
2hdc, 1hdc in the next 29hdc. Total of 31hdc on each side of the ch2.
Row 7: ch1 turn your work, hdc in the first st, 1hdc in the next 30hdc, in the ch2 sp make 2hdc, ch2,
2hdc, 1hdc in the next 31hdc. Total of 33hdc on each side of the ch2.
Row 8: ch1 turn your work, hdc in the first st, 1hdc in the next 32hdc, in the ch2 sp make 2hdc, ch2,
2hdc, 1hdc in the next 33hdc. Total of 35hdc on each side of the ch2.
Row 9: ch1 turn your work, hdc in the first st, 1hdc in the next 34hdc, in the ch2 sp make 2hdc, ch2,
2hdc, 1hdc in the next 35hdc. Total of 37hdc on each side of the ch2.
Row 10: ch1 turn your work, hdc in the first st, 1hdc in the next 36hdc, in the ch2 sp make 2hdc, ch2,
2hdc, 1hdc in the next 37hdc. Total of 39hdc on each side of the ch2.

Fasten off. Now make a second one, but DO NOT fasten off at the end of row 10.
Round 1: You will now make 80 chains, being careful not to twist your chains you will join to the second
triangle top with a sl st at the bottom corner, you will now make 26sc evenly across the bottom of your
triangle, once you reach the end of the second triangle chain 4, sl st at the corner of the first triangle and
make 26 sc evenly across the bottom of the triangle till you reach the end of your top.

*NOTE for other body types and sizes*
You can make your triangle top smaller or larger by making less or more rounds. Making sure to Fasten
off the first one and DO NOT fasten off the second one. Now if you do make your triangle tops larger or
smaller your chains and sc will be different for the joining round. You will want to make a number of
chains for your back and test it to fit. Once you find the chain count that fits you, you will want to make
1 sc in each row across your triangle bottom, making the same amount of sc in the second triangle
bottom. Remember to make the ch4 in between the 2 tops, though for a larger size you may need to
make 1 to 2 extra chains, again test for fit, if it fits make 1 round of sc in each st (this round counts as
your second round, continue below for Round 3).
Remember to keep track of how many st you have because in the next round you will increase to make
your stitches a multiple of 16.

Body of the dress:
Round 2: Sc in each of the 80 ch, across the 26 sc on one triangle, sc in each of the ch4, sc again in the
last 26 st of the second triangle top. (136st)
Round 3: In this round, you will need your stitch count to be a multiple of 16, I have 136 and need 144st
I will increase 8 st in this round evenly. Depending on your size you may not need to increase or you may
need less or more st to get a multiple of 16. For this size, sc around your dress, increasing 8 st evenly
around, making sure to make one of your increases in the center of the ch4. Count your st to make sure

you have a multiple of 16. This round is important for the pattern set up for this dress. Be sure to place a
st marker to mark the beginning and end of your rounds.
Round 4: sc in the first st, ch1, sk a st, sc in the next, *ch1, sk a st, hdc, ch1, sk a st, dc, ch1, sk a st, tr,
ch1, sk a st, tr, ch1, sk a st, dc, ch1, sk a st, hdc, ch1,sk a st, sc, ch1, sk a st, sc* repeat from *to*
around until you reach the first sc you made, you will end with a hdc ch1. You will have a total of 9
bridges.
Round 5: your last round you should have ended with a hdc, ch1. On top of the sc from the previous
round you will make a sc, ch1, in the next sc from previous round make a sc, *ch1, hdc in hdc from
previous round, ch1, dc in dc from previous round, ch1, tr in tr from previous round, ch1, tr in tr from
previous round, ch1, dc in dc from previous round, ch1, hdc in hdc from previous round, ch1, sc in sc
from previous round, ch1, sc in sc from previous round* repeat from *to* around ending with a hdc,
ch1, to end this round you will sl st at the top of your first sc. You will have 9 bridges at the end of this
round.
Round 6: ch1 sc in the same st, sc in each st from round 5, including the chain spaces, sl st with the first
sc. (144st)
Round 7: ch1, sc in the same st, sc in each st around, sl st with the first sc. (144st)
For the 8
th round you will be making your bridge pattern again, but you will want this round to be off
center from the previous bridge pattern. These next 2 rounds will begin with a treble instead of a sc. You
will want to make sure you ch 5 lines up with the 2

nd sc from round 5 (see pic below), if you must sl st to
it than do so now. If you do this part right your pattern should alternate from the previous bridge
pattern, your treble crochet should line up with the sc from Rounds 4 and 5. (see pic below)

Round 8: ch5 (counts as treble and ch1), *sk a st, dc, ch1, sk a st, hdc, ch1, sk a st, sc, ch1, sk a st, sc, ch1,
sk a st, hdc, ch1, sk a st, dc, ch1, sk a st, tr, ch1, sk a st, tr, ch1* repeat from *to* around you will end
with just 1 treble crochet and ch1, sl st with the 4th chain from the beginning of the round.
Round 9: ch5 (counts as first tr and ch1), you will match st for st from the previous round, so if there is a
dc you will dc in that st, hdc then you would hdc in the st, making sure to add a ch1 in between each st,
you will end the same as round 8 with 1 tr and ch1, sl st with the 4th chain from the beginning of the
round.

Round 10-11: Repeat Rounds 6-7
For your 12th round you will be making your bridge pattern again and you will want this round to be off
center from the previous bridge pattern. These next 2 rounds will begin with a sc instead of a tr. You will
want to make sure you ch 1 lines up with the 2

nd tr from round 9, if you must sl st to it, than do so now.
If you do this part right your pattern should alternate from the previous bridge pattern and line up with
the first bridge from Round 4-5, your single crochets should line up with the Trebles from Rounds 8 and
9.
Round 12: ch1, sc in the same st, *ch1, sk a st, hdc, ch1, sk a st, dc, ch1, sk a st, tr, ch1, sk a st, tr, ch1, sk
a st, dc, ch1, sk a st, hdc, ch1,sk a st, sc, ch1, sk a st, sc* repeat from *to* around until you will end
with a sc, ch1, sl st with the first sc you made. You will have a total of 9 bridges/waves
Round 13: ch1, sc in the same st, you will mirror your st from the previous round. Just as you did for
Round 9, sl st with the first sc you made.
Round 14-15: Repeat rounds 6-7.
For the next few rounds you will no longer be making the bridge pattern, but you will get back to it again
shortly.
Round 16: *ch3, sk 2st, sc* repeat from *to* around you until you reach the last 2 st, place a st marker
on those st and begin your next 2 rounds.
Round 17-18: *ch3, in the center of the ch3 from previous round sc* repeat from *to* around until you
reach your stitch marker.
Round 19: *make 3sc in the next 7 ch3 spaces, in the 8th ch3 sp make 4 sc* repeat from *to* around.
You will be adding 8 extra st in this round, for a total of 152st.
Round 20: you will sc in each st, increasing 8 sc evenly around, having a total of 160st.
Round 21: You will want to sl st until you are lined up with the 1st sc from the previous bridge, once you
are you will ch5 (counts as tr, ch1) sk a st, tr, *ch1, sk a st, dc, ch1, sk a st, hdc, ch1, sk a st, sc, ch1, sk a
st, sc, ch1, sk a st, hdc, ch1, sk a st, dc, ch1, sk a st, tr, ch1, sk a st, tr* repeat from *to* around, ending
with a dc, ch1, sl st with the 4th chain from the beginning of the round. You will have 10 bridges in total.
Round 22: ch5, you will now mirror the st from the previous round like you have before.
Round 23-24: Repeat rounds 6-7 You will have 160st.
Round 25-32: you will continue in the pattern like you had previously, working 2 rows of bridge pattern,
2 rows of sc, 2 more rows of the bridge pattern and lastly 2 more rows of sc. You will want to alternate
your bridge pattern, so the next 2 bridge rows are off center from the last 2 rows of the bridge pattern.
After Round 32 I decided now is the best time to add straps to the dress, if you feel the back is too low
you can sc across the back st for a number of rows till you reach the height you like, you will have to sew
the back to the front triangles later and your straps will be shorter.
Top Border:
Round 1: You will join your yarn to any st in the back and ch1, sc in the same st, sc in each st as it
presents itself to you, along the back and up the triangle top till you reach the ch2 sp, make 3 sc in that
sp, pick up each st till you reach the ch4 sp, sc in each st, then up the other side of the triangle top to the
ch2 sp, 3sc in the ch2 sp and sc your way back to the first sc you made.

Round 2: *ch3, sl st at the base of the sc, sc in the next 2 st* repeat from *to* all around the back of the
top up and down the triangle tops and back to the first picot st you made, sl st with it and fasten off
your work.
Straps:
Join your yarn at the top of one of the triangles (not in the ch3 of the picot but in between that) and
ch70 or the desired length you need for your size, now with the back of your dress facing you, drop the
chain from your hook, count 13 Picot (ch3) from the bottom of the triangle top to the back of your dress,
pass your crochet hook through a st between picots and pick up the dropped st, making sure not to twist
your chain, pull the live st through the back and sl st in the next st, you will now sc in each chain along
until you reach the front, sl st in the next st after the joining st you made for your chain, sl st in the next
st and fasten off.
Repeat this again for the second strap.
*Note* If you want a wider strap just make more rows of sc until you reach the width you like
remember to sl st to the front and the back when you end a new row, repeat for the second strap.

Back to the Body of the Dress:
You ended with 2 rounds of sc. You will now want to make your rounds of ch3, sc.
Rounds 33-35: Repeat rounds 16-18
Depending on the length you want your dress to be you will continue in the pattern increasing 8sc
evenly in each of the 2sc rows right before the bridge pattern begins, increasing a total of 16 extra st at
the end of the 2nd row. By doing so you will also increase the number of bridges you will have by 1 per
Dress Pattern Repeat.
You will want to repeat below 5 more times, I had 3 sets of 15 bridges, total of 240 st.

*Dress Pattern Repeat*
2 increasing rounds of sc (total of 16 extra st)
2 rounds bridge pattern (set 1)
2 rounds sc
2 rounds alternating bridge pattern from previous bridge pattern (set 2)
2 rounds sc
2 rounds alternating bridge pattern from previous bridge pattern (set 3)
2 rounds sc
1 rounds ch3, sk a st, sc,
2 rounds ch3, sc in ch3 sp from previous round
I wanted a floor/ankle length high/low hem so I started with 3 sets of 9 bridges and ended with 3 sets of
15 bridges, having 7 repeats of the above pattern in total. But you can make yours any length you wish
before you add your high/low hem, keep in mind that your st count won’t be the same as mine if you

made a different size or length but it will always need to be a multiple of 16 and you will always increase
by 16 in the first 2 rounds of the dress pattern repeat.
After you have repeated your Dress Pattern 7 times you will make 2 more rounds of sc, increasing 8 st
per round evenly, increasing your st count to 256 (again if you are making a shorter version or different
size, your st count will be different, but as always a multiple of 16) Fasten off.
Now let’s work on the High/Low Hem
You will want to find the center of your dress front, you will lay your dress on a flat surface and from the
space between the 2 triangles follow an imaginary line down the front to the bottom hem, mark that st
with a st marker. Or you can fold the dress in half, folding the 2 triangles on top of each other and
finding your center that way, mark that st with a st marker.

Row 1: I joined my yarn in the st above the second treble in the last bridge round, joining with a sl st, sl
st in the next 7 st, total of 8 sl st, you will *ch3, sk 2 st, sc in the next* repeat form *to* until you have
9st left before the first st you joined your yarn, sc in the 9th st, turn your work.
Row 2 -3: sl st in the ch3 sp, *ch3, sc in next ch3 sp* repeat from *to* until you reach the last ch3, sc in
it and turn your work.
Row 4: sl st in the first ch3, *in the next ch3 make 3 sc* repeat from *to* to the last ch3, sl st in it and
turn your work.
Row 5: sl st in the next 3 st, sc in each st to the last 3 st and turn your work.
Row 6: (Now is the tricky part!! Beginning your bridge pattern) First you will sl st in the next 3 st, now
you are going to find the 2 tr from your last bridge, draw a line up from the first treble, that st you meet
will be a sc, count backwards from this st like so to determine your first st( sk a st, hdc, sk a st, dc, sk a st,
etc... until you reach your 3rd sl st of row 6, now you found out what st you need to start your bridge
row with!!
Keep with the bridge pattern like you have in previous bridge rounds just make sure to start with the st
you figured out from counting backwards, work the row in the pattern until you reach the last 3 st, turn
your work.

(Bridge row pattern: sc, ch1, sk a st, sc, ch1, sk a st, hdc, ch1, sk a st, dc, ch1, sk a st, tr, ch1, sk a st, tr,
ch1, sk a st, dc, ch1, sk a st, hdc, ch1, sk a st)
Row 7: Mirror the last row, making sure to put a ch1 between each st.
Row 8: sc in the ch sp, sc in the next st, sc in the next ch sp, repeat that across your row, your last sc will
be in the ch1 sp before the last st, turn your work.
Row 9: sl st in the next 2 st, sc in each st to the last 3 st, sl st in the next st and turn your work.
Row 10: will be another row of bridges, again like in the pattern it will be off center from the previous
set of bridges, you will need to figure out like you did in Row 6 except you will find the first sc and the st
above will be a treble, count back to find your first st for this row, sl st in the first st and begin your row
with your determined st. Turn your work
Row 11: Mirror the last row, making sure to put a ch1 in between each st.
Row 12: sl st over the next st, sc in each st and ch sp across until you reach the last st, sl st and turn your
work.
Row 13: sl st in the first 2 st, sc along until you reach the last 3 st, sl st in the next st, turn your work.
Row 14: sl st in the first st, you will make your last set of bridges, find out what st of the bridge pattern
to start with by counting back like in row 6. Once you find your st work your pattern across the row to
the last 3 st, end with a sc, turn your work.
Row 15: Mirror the last row, making sure to put a ch1 in between each st.
Row 16-17: Repeat Row 12-13
Row 18: sl st in the first st, *ch3, sk 2 st, sc in next st* repeat from *to* leaving the last st untouched,
turn your work.
Row 19-20: Repeat row 2-3
You will continue to decrease on both sides like you have been doing and repeating rows 4-20 once
more. For the next 2 rows you will repeat Rows 4-5, I had 256 st when I started the hem and ended with
92st. Now let’s work on the Border for the hem.
Hem Border:
Round 1: you will be working in the inside of your hem first, along the sides of the row. You will sc
evenly along the side of your hem and bottom, for your first st you can place a st marker to mark your
beginning st, in the rows ending and beginning with a sc/sl st you will pick up 1sc, in the rows with a
chain 5 or tr you will pick up 3 st, or less if you feel 3 is too much, in the ch3 spaces make 2 sc, work
your way up the side of the hem to the center sc in each of the next 16 st and then repeat again down
the other side of your hem, when you reach the bottom you will pick up 1 sc per st across until you
reach the st marker/first sc.
You don’t want your hem too tight or too loose so be sure to add your sc evenly over the hem of your
dress.
Round 2: (Picot Round) *ch3, sl st at the base of the sc, sc in the next 2 st* repeat from *to* around
until you reach the first picot you made, sl st and fasten off. Hide all loose tails and you are done!

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 







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