Thursday, August 31, 2017

Boho Ombre Long Vest Easy Tutorial

Boho Ombre Long Vest Easy Tutorial

By: Annoo Crochet Designs


Video Links:

For the Vest :click here

For the Hood: click here

Size: This pattern is for a Small/Medium it would be perfect for anyone 5ft 3” as it sits just at the ankles.
In the pattern there are some hints to help with taller sizes as well as larger sizes.

You will need: 2 skeins of Katia Summer Rainbow
(Fingering Weight yarn) Weight: 150g/600m
 Yarn Color: 57 Fiber
Content: 50%Cotton/50% Acrylic
2.75mm Crochet hook
Scissors
Tapestry needle
Stitches Used: Ch: chains
Sc: Single crochet
HDC: half double crochet
Dc: double crochet
Gauge: 3 groups(flower, dc cluster, flower) is approximately 5 inches
6 rows is approximately 2 ½ inches
Note: If you are using an ombre yarn for your vest you will want to keep the ombre effect even. Once you are done with your back you will find the same spot in the second skein of yarn and begin the front panels. Please watch the Tutorial for more help.

Instructions: This pattern is in a multiple of 20+15. 20 chains make up the dc clusters and the flower, the extra 15 makes up one more set of clusters including the extra dc on each end.

Smaller/Larger sizes: If you want to make a smaller/larger size you will want to make a chain that fits around the widest part of your hips or chest, make sure the chain is 2 things, a multiple of 20+15 and that it is not too loose or too snug.
Once you have your new chain count begin at Row 1 and continue in pattern.

For shorter or longer lengths skip down to the end of Row 72 for more info.

With your yarn and hook make a slip knot and chain 255.

 Row 1: in the 4th chain from your hook make 1dc, *dc in the next ch, ch2, dc in the next 2 chains, sk 2 chain, make 1 dc in the next 2 chains, ch2, dc in the next 2ch, ch4, sk 5chains, in the 6th chain dc, ch4, skip 5ch, make 1dc in the 6th ch* repeat from *to* across, make 1dc in the next chain, ch2, 1dc in the next 2chains, sk 2 chains, in the 3rd chain make dc, dc in next ch, ch2, dc in the last 3ch and turn your work.

Row 2: ch3(counts as 1st dc) *in the ch2 space from previous row make 2dc, ch2, 2dc, repeat in the next chain 2 space, ch3, count 3ch and hdc in it, ch3, pass the dc from the previous row and skip one chain, hdc in the next ch, ch3* Repeat from *to* across, in the ch2 space from previous row make 2dc, ch2, 2dc, repeat in the next chain 2 space, in the ch3 from previous row make a dc. Turn your work.

Row 3: Ch3 (counts as 1st dc) * in the ch2 space from previous row make 2dc, ch2, 2dc, repeat in the next chain 2 space, ch4, sk 1 ch 3 space in the next ch3 space make a dc, ch4* repeat from *to* across, in the ch2 space from previous row make 2dc, ch2, 2dc, repeat in the next chain 2 space, dc in the top of the ch3 from previous row, turn your work. You will have your first set group of Flowers and dc clusters, you will have a total of 25 groups. The next 3 rows will be the same but the pattern will alternate, the clusters will be above the flowers and the flowers will be above the clusters.

Row 4: Ch7(first 3ch count as dc) ,* in between the 2 groups of 2 dc you will make 1dc,

Ch4, in the next 2 chains make 1dc, ch2, in next 2 chains make 1dc in each, skip the dc from previous row and in the next 4 chains make 1dc in the next 2 chains, ch2, 1dc in the next 2 chains, ch4* repeat from *to* across ending by making a dc in between the 2 groups of 2dc clusters, ch4 and in the ch3 from previous row make a dc. Turn your work.

Row 5: ch6 (counts as first dc and ch3) *count 3ch from previous row and hdc in it, ch3, pass the dc from the previous row and skip one chain, hdc in the next ch, ch3, in the ch2 space make (2dc, ch2, 2dc) repeat in the next chain 2 space, ch3* repeat from *to* across, count 3ch from previous row and hdc in it, ch3, pass the dc from the previous row and skip one chain, hdc in the next ch, ch3, in the 4th chain make a dc. Turn your work.

Row 6: ch7 (counts as first dc and ch4), skip the first ch3 space and dc in the next ch3 space, ch4, in the ch 2 space make (2dc, ch2, 2dc) repeat in the next ch2 space, ch3* repeat from *to* across, skipping the first ch3 space and dc in the next ch3 space, ch4, dc in the 5th chain, Turn your work.

Row 7: ch3 (counts as first dc) *make 1dc in the next 2chains, ch2,1dc in the next 2 ch, skip the dc and make 1dc in the next 2ch, ch2, 1dc in the next 2ch, ch4, in between the 2 clusters make 1dc, ch4* repeat from *to* across, make 1dc in the next 2ch, ch2, 1dc in next 2ch, skip the dc and make 1dc in the next 2ch, ch2, 1dc in the next 3ch. Turn your work.

Row 8-72: Repeat rows 2-7. Fasten off. Stopping at Row 72 the vest will sit about ankle length when measured just under your armpit down, if you want your vest longer or shorter you will have to make less or more rows. If you want it shorter or longer you will want to make sure you repeat rows 2-7 for however long you want your vest (test it as you go from your armpit to the desired length making sure to complete the 6 rows)

The Back:
You will skip the first 7 groups of flowers and double crochet clusters. You will skip in total 3 groups of double crochet clusters (see pic below what the dc cluster will look like)

and You will also skip 4 of the flowers (see pic below of what the flower will look like)

 For smaller/larger sizes: the number of flowers and dc clusters you skip for the back will have changed. You should have an odd number of groups of flowers and dc clusters in total. To find yours take that number and minus 3, the leftover number now will get divided in half, that is the number of groups for your back, you will add back the 3 to the remaining number, if that number is even take one away and add it to the back panel, now you will divide that even number in half, that will be for your front panels, you will skip that number to start your back.

Example: I had 25, take 3 away you get 22, divide that in half 11, that is your back number. Add the 3 to the 11 gives you 14, divide that in half gives you 7 that is your front panel groups that you will skip. Join your yarn with a slip stitch at the end of the 5th flower you skipped, in the last of the ch4 from the flower (see pic below)


Row 1: Ch7(first 3ch count as dc) ,* in between the 2 dc clusters you will make 1dc,

Ch4, in the next 2 chains make 1dc, ch2, in next 2 chains make 1dc in each, skip the dc from previous row and in the next 4 chains make 1dc in the next 2 chains, ch2, 1dc in the next 2 chains, ch4* repeat from *to* across until you have 11 groups in total you will have 6 flowers and 5 dc cluster groups, ending with a flower group, you will dc in the first ch from the previous row. Turn your work. You should have the same number of dc clusters and flowers groups left on the this side as you did on the right front side (7 groups in total)

Row 2: ch6 (counts as first dc and ch3) *count 3ch from previous row and hdc in it, ch3, pass the dc from the previous row and skip one chain, hdc in the next ch, ch3, in the ch2 space make (2dc, ch2, 2dc) repeat in the next chain 2 space* repeat from *to* across until you reach the end of your row, dc in the 4 th chain. Turn your work.

Row 3: ch7 (counts as first dc and ch4), skip the first ch3 space and dc in the next ch3 space, ch4, in the ch 2 space make (2dc, ch2, 2dc) repeat in the next ch2 space* repeat from *to* across until you reach the end of your row, dc in the 3rd chain, Turn your work.

 Row 4: ch3 (counts as first dc) *make 1dc in the next 2chains, ch2,1dc in the next 2 ch, skip the dc and make 1dc in the next 2ch, ch2, 1dc in the next 2ch, ch4, in between the 2 clusters make 1dc, ch4* repeat from *to* across until you reach the end of the row, dc in the next chain. Turn your work.

Row 5: ch3(counts as 1st dc) *in the ch2 space from previous row make 2dc, ch2, 2dc, repeat in the next chain 2 space, ch3, count 3ch and hdc in it, ch3, pass the dc from the previous row and skip one chain, hdc in the next ch, ch3* Repeat from *to* across until you reach the end of your row, in the ch3 from previous row make a dc. Turn your work.

Row 6: Ch3 (counts as 1st dc) * in the ch2 space from previous row make 2dc, ch2, 2dc, repeat in the next chain 2 space, ch4, sk 1 ch 3 space in the next ch3 space make a dc, ch4* repeat from *to* across until you reach the end of your row, dc in the top of the ch3 from previous row, turn your work.

Row 7-15: repeat rows 1-6. When you reach the end of the 15th row you will fasten off. You will want to test this again for your size, if the armhole length isn’t long enough for your size you will want to make more rows or less rows.
If you do make sure you try to keep in pattern of 3 rows to make up the flowers and dc cluster groups. If you do make less or more rows for your armhole you will want to take note as how many rows you did as it will affect your front panel. But no worries below will be some help.

Front Panels:
For the armhole space, you will skip the flower and join your yarn in the last ch of the ch4 (see pic below)


Row 1-9: follow rows 1-9 for the back. You will have 6 groups in total for the front panel. Note for other sizes: if you made less or more rows than the 15 for the back you will need to adjust your front collar decrease. You will need 6 rows for the decrease so minus that from your back row number and stop working even at that row then continue from Row 10 for the decreases. Remember to repeat the same rows for the second panel. Decrease for the collar you will not decrease at the armhole edge but the neck edge:

Row 10: you will sl st in each st until you reach the center of the dc clusters,

Ch7 (counts as dc and ch4), *dc in the next 2 ch, ch2, dc in next 2 ch, skipping the dc from previous row, make 1dc in each of the next 2 ch, ch2, dc in the next 2 ch, ch4, dc in between the dc clusters* repeat to the end of the row, make a dc in the 3rd ch, turn your work.

Row 11: ch3(counts as first dc), *in the ch2 space make (2dc, ch2, 2dc), repeat that in the next ch2 space, ch3, hdc in the 3rd chain, ch3, skipping the dc from previous row and the 1st chain make a hdc in the next chain, ch3* repeat from *to* until you reach the last flower group,

you will have 2 flower groups and 3 dc clusters before you reach the last flower group, you will end the row by making 1dc in the first ch and turn your work.

Row 12: you will sl st in each st until you reach the center of the dc clusters, ch3(counts as first dc), *in the next ch2 sp make (2dc, ch2, 2dc), ch4, skip the first ch3 space in the next ch3 space make a dc, ch4, in the next ch2 sp make (2dc, ch2, 2dc) * repeat from *to* to the end of your row, making 1 dc in the 3rd chain from the previous row. Turn your work.

Row 13: ch7 (counts as dc and ch4), *in between the 2 clusters make a dc, ch4, in the next 2 chains make 1 dc, ch2, dc in the next 2 chains, skipping the dc make a dc in the next 2 ch, ch2, dc in the next 2 ch, ch4* repeat from *to* until you have 4 groups left ending with a dc cluster, you will dc in the next dc. Turn your work.

Row 14: ch3,* in the ch2 space make (2dc, ch2, 2dc), repeat that in the next ch2 space, ch3, hdc in the 3 rd chain, ch3, skipping the dc and next ch hdc in the 2nd chain, ch3* repeat from *to* until you have reached the end of your row, make a dc in the top of the 3rd ch. Turn your work.

Row 15: ch7 (counts as dc and ch4), *skipping the first ch3, make a dc in the next ch3 sp, ch4, in the next 2 ch2 space make (2dc, ch2, 2dc), ch4* repeat from *to* until you reach the end of your row, make a dc in the top of the 3rd ch. Fasten off your work.

You will repeat these 15 rows for the other side of your front panel, making sure to decrease at the collar edge and no the armhole edge.

The Assembly:

You will put your work wrong side facing you so that the front panels line up with the back making sure the armholes are even. You will now slip stitch the shoulder seam closed, making sure to match stitch for stitch. Fasten off once you reach the end of the first panel. You will repeat this for the second side as well.


The Border:

You will now make a border of sc all around the free edge of your vest and the armholes as well. With your work right side facing you, join your yarn at the bottom corner of your vest with a slip stitch, you will be working along the inside edge of your vest working in the side of the rows. You will want to make sure you are consistent with the number of sc you add, you will want to make it even on both sides. This is how I did mine in the side of the rows, in the ch3 space on the side of the dc cluster rows I made 2sc in the ch3 sp, 1sc in between the row, 2sc in the next ch sp, 1sc in between the row, 2sc in the next ch sp, 1 sc in between the row, for the flower rows, I made 3sc in the ch space, 1sc in between the rows, 2sc in the ch3 sp, 1sc in between the row and 3 sc in the next ch space, repeating this all along your side till you reach the back, there you will make a sc in each st as it presents itself, the work down the other side of the vest the same as you did the other side, once you reach the bottom you will pick up 1 sc in each st along the bottom until you reach the first sc you made, sl st with it and fasten off. For the armholes, you will repeat the same thing picking up stitches evenly. Fasten off and hide all loose tails. Hood: To start your hood you will need to find the point on the front panel where you began you decrease. Once you find that you will then count down 9 rows or 3 groups of flowers and dc clusters with a stitch marker mark it and the other side in the same spot too. You will want 120 sc in between the stitch markers. If you don’t have that adjust the st markers evenly until you do. Note: If you made your vest a different size you may need to adjust your hood count, to find yours you will still do as above finding the beginning of your collar decreases and counting down 3 groups of flowers and dc clusters, you will need to count the st in between your stitch markers and then increase about 20 st evenly in the first row. Work the same number of rows or until you are satisfied with your hoods length. Assemble and add the border the same as instructed below.

Row 1: Join your yarn in the same place as your st marker with a slip stitch, ch3(counts as dc) now dc in the next 5 st, *make 2 dc in the next st, dc in the next 6st* repeat from *to* until you reach the next st marker. You will have increased to 140dc. Turn your work.

Row 2-34: ch3 (counts as first dc), skip the first dc at the bottom of the ch3 and dc in the next st, dc in each st across and lastly make a dc in the top of the ch3, you will have 140dc in total.

You will not fasten off, you will now fold your hood in half wrong sides facing you, you will now assemble the top seam of your hood together with a slip stitch matching stitch for stitch, once you reach the fold you are done, fasten off and sew in all the loose tails. Turn your hood right side facing you. You will now make a sc border along the edge of the hood. Pass your crochet hook about 2sc before your first row of dc and join your yarn with a slip stitch, ch1, sc in the next sc, you will pick up 2 sc per row of dc, when you get to the ridge of the hood you will make 1 sc in the seam, continue to pick up 2sc per row until you reach the end of the hoodie side and the first st of your vest, sc in the next st of the vest, sl st in the next st and fasten off, hide all loose tails and you are done.

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 








All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Monday, August 14, 2017

Emoji Pixel Blanket

Emoji Pixel Blanket
By: Annoo Crochet Designs

Video Link: clic here

You will need:
Berroco Comfort Yarn (Worsted Weight yarn) 3.5oz/100 g/210 yds 50% Super Fine Acrylic, 50% Super Fine Nylon
300 g- 9766 (Sable) 500 g- 9707 (Boy Blue) 100 g7723 (Rosebud) 100 g- 9701 (Ivory)
200 g- 9734 (Liquorice)

Crochet hook 4.5mm Scissors
Tapestry needle

Stitches used:
Sc: Single crochet Dc: Double crochet Sl st: slip stitch
You can go to Pinterest and search for Crochet Pixel blankets and there is an array of charts you can use.
Instructions:
To keep your Pixel blanket squares all the same size you will want to use the same brand of yarn throughout, picking your colors according to your design.
The trickiest part for a beginner crocheter may be the joining, but once you get the hang of it it becomes easy and works up fast. You can also join them by sewing if you are too intimidated by the way I show how to join them. Just make all your squares and hide all the loose tails then stitch up the blanket how you feel comfortable.
To make the squares for your Pixel Blanket:
If you choose to follow the technique I used in the video you will want to use the chart and work in rows. You will work 1 row adding each square together as you go along, the second and following rows you will add each new square to the previous row and to the row you are working on. Once you get the hang of it you will move along quickly. No sewing required, except to hide loose tails.

page1image16592

With your crochet hook and yarn make a magic circle,
Round 1: ch3, 2dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1 in the magic circle, pull on the end yarn to tighten the granny up, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Round 2: sl st on top of the dc until you are in the center of the ch1 sp, ch3, 2dc, ch3, 3dc in the same sp, *ch1, 3dc, ch3, 3dc in next ch1 sp* repeat from *to* until you have 4 corners made, ch1 and sl st with the top of the ch3. Fasten off.
If you choose to sew your squares then continue to make your grannies as above. Use the chart as a guide to assemble and for the colors of squares you will need.
Now if you choose to do the No Sew Method you can watch the video at the 10:56 minute mark. For your first row, this is how you will join the squares.
Joining Grannies for Row 1:
Make your next granny like so,be sure to follow the chart so you know when to change colors for each new Granny.
Round 1: ch3, 2dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1 in the magic circle, pull on the end yarn to tighten the granny up, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Round 2: begin your granny like so, sl st to the first ch1 space, (ch3, 2dc, ch3, 3dc) in the same sp, in the next ch1 sp make 3dc, ch1, you will now take your first square and place it wrong sides together, in the corner of the first square sl st in the ch3 sp, ch1 and make 3dc in the ch1 sp from the granny you are working on, in the ch1 sp from the first granny sl st, you will then make 3dc in the ch1 sp of the granny you are working on, ch1, in the ch3 sp of the previous granny sl st, ch1, finish off making 3dc in the ch1 sp of the granny you are working on, ch1, (3dc, ch3, 3dc) in the next ch1 sp, ch1, sl st with the firs t ch3 and fasten off. Hide all loose tails be sure to knot the center so it won’t unravel during use and wash.
For row 1 of your chart you will continue to make and attach the grannies as above , when you complete joining the first row you will move on to the next row.

Joining Grannies for Rows 2-16
Step 1:
You will now be joining in the row below as well as the row you are working on. Again, be sure to follow the chart so you know when to change colors for each new granny.
You will join the first granny this way for all the rows.
Round 1: ch3, 2dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1 in the magic circle, pull on the end yarn to tighten the granny up, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Round 2: sl st to the first ch1 sp, (ch3, 2dc, ch3, 3dc) in the ch1 sp, you wi ll make 3dc in the next ch1 sp, ch1, you will now put this granny wrong sides facing to the first granny from the previous row see 17:31 minute mark for help, sl st in the ch3 sp, 3dc in the same ch1 sp on the granny you are working on, sl st in the ch1 sp, in next ch1 sp of the granny you are working on make 3dc, ch1, you will sl st in the st joining the first and second grannies together,

ch1, 3dc in the ch1 sp from granny you are working on, ch1, finish off your granny by making 3dc, ch1, 3dc in the last ch1 sp, ch1, sl st with the first ch3. Fasten off and sew in loose tails.
Step 2:
To Join the rest of the squares for the row you will assemble them like so:
Round1: ch3,2dc, ch1,3dc,ch1, 3dc,ch1,3dc, ch1inthemagiccircle,pullontheendyarntotighten the granny up, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Round 2: sl st to the ch1 sp, ch3, 2dc, ch3, 3dc in the ch1 sp, ch1, make 3dc in the next ch1 sp, ch1, you will now join your granny to the previous granny in this row wrong sides together, 20:44 minute mark for help,

sl st in the ch3 sp, ch1, 3dc in the same ch1 sp, sl st in the ch1 sp from the previous granny, in the next ch1 sp make 3dc, ch1, sl st to the st in between the grannies from the previous row, ch1, make 3dc in the ch1 sp of the granny you are working on, sl st in the ch1 sp of the granny from the previous row, 

3dc in the ch1 sp of the granny you are working on, ch1, sl st in the st in the st between the 2 grannies from the previous row,
ch1, 3dc in the same ch1 sp on the granny you are working on, ch1, sl st with the first ch3. Fasten off and hide all loose tails.
Repeat the last 2 Rounds for the rest of this row, changing color as it presents itself in the chart.
You will now repeat these 2 steps for each new row, making sure to change colors according to the chart.
I added 1 extra round of blue grannies around my blanket, join them the same as you have been. You don’t have to do this, you can leave it as the chart shows and go on to the border below.
Border:
With your hook and blue yarn, join with a sl st to any st in between 2 grannies, ch1 sc in the same st, pick up 1 sc in the ch sp, sc in each of the dc, sc in the ch1 sp, sc in each of the dc, sc in the ch sp, sc in st between grannies, you will repeat this around until you reach a corner, you will make 3 sc in the corner spaces, continue like that until you reach the first sc you made, sl st and fasten off, hide all loose tails.
Join your black yarn with a sl st in the middle st of any corner, ch1, sc in the same st, *ch5, sc in the same st, ch7, sc in same st, ch5, sc in the same st, ch4, sk 5st and sc in the next st*, repeat from *to* around your blanket, ending with a ch4, sl st with the first sc, fasten off and hide all loose tail . You are done.
   

Links:
10:56 minute mark :
https://youtu.be/XfgtPskxf0I?t=657 17:31 minute mark: https://youtu.be/XfgtPskxf0I?t=1051 20:44 minute mark: https://youtu.be/XfgtPskxf0I?t=1244 
Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 








All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Easy Crochet Earrings

Easy Crochet Earrings
By: Annoo Crochet Designs


Video Link:click here
You will need:
Small amount of Fingering/Lace weight yarn in your color choice 2.0 mm crochet hook
Scissors
Tapestry needle

Stitch marker
2 Fish hook earrings
6 Jump rings
Pair of Round Nose jewelry pliers Small amount of Poly-fil

Stitches used:
Sc: single Crochet Sl st: Slip Stitch
Instructions:
Starting with the Small ball first (make 2):
With your hook and yarn make a slip knot and ch2,
Round 1: make 6 sc in the second ch from hook,
Round 2: 2sc in each st around (12sc)
Round 3-4: sc all around, using your st marker to mark your rounds. (12 sc) Round 5: sc2tog in each st around (6sc)
Stuff firmly with your Poly-fil
Round 6: sc in each st around, (6sc) Fasten off, leaving about 6 inch tail. Make a second ball.
Medium Ball (make 2)
page1image10424
With your hook and yarn make a slip knot and ch2,
Round 1: make 6 sc in the second ch from hook,
Round 2: 2sc in each st around (12sc)
Round 3: 2sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, repeat that around (18sc)
Round 4-5: sc all around, (18sc)
Round 6: sc2tog, sc in next st, repeat that all around (12sc)
Round 7: sc2tog all around (6sc)
Stuff your ball with Poly-fil firmly
Round 8: sc in each st around (6sc) fasten off and leave about a 6 inch tail. Make a second medium ball.
Large Ball:
With your hook and yarn make a slip knot and ch2,
Round 1: make 6 sc in the second ch from hook,
Round 2: 2sc in each st around (12sc)
Round 3: 2sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, repeat that around (18sc) Round 4: 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st, repeat that around (24sc) Round 5-6: Sc in each st around (24sc)
Round 7: sc2tog, sc in next 2st, repeat that around (18sc) Round 8: sc2tog, sc in next st, repeat that around (12sc) Round 9: sc2tog around, (6sc)
Stuff your ball firmly with Poly-fil

Round 10: sc in each st around. (6sc) Fasten off and leave about a 6 inch tail. Make a second Large ball.
Time to connect them:
Take a jump ring and the earring hook, you will open the jump ring with your pliers (just enough to slip on the end of the earring. Once you have added the ring close the ring with your pliers.
You will now take your tapestry needle and larger ball, stitch the hole closed, pass the needle through the jump ring and secure it to the large ball. Pass your needle through the center of the ball where you willattachanotherjumpring. Takeanotherjumpringandpassyourneedlethroughtheholeand secure it to the ball using your needle and yarn. Fasten off and hide all loose tails.

With your needle and Medium ball, stitch the opening closed, using the same string you used to close the hole.
Pass your needle through the jump ring on the larger ball, secure it back to the medium ball. Pass your needle and yarn through the center of your medium ball and attach another jump ring, pass needle though the ring and secure it to the Medium ball. Fasten off and hide all loose tails.
With your needle and Smaller ball, stitch the opening closed, using the same string you used to cl ost the hole, pass you needle through the jump ring on the Medium ball, secure it back to the small ball. Pass your needle and yarn through the center secure it once more at the bottom, Fasten off and hide all loose tails.
Repeat this for the second earring and you are done. 

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 








All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Bohemian Vest Crochet



Bohemian Vest Crochet
By Annoo Crochet Designs


Video link: Click here for  Part 1
Click here for Part 2

Size: One size fits most
If you are taller than 5ft 5inches you may find the vest will be a little shorter. In the instructions there

are some hints to make it longer.

You will need:
Main color:
12skeins(600g) of Sirdar Crofter DK Fair Isle effect dk (Dk weight yarn)
Color: Bracken (050)
Fiber: 60% Acrylic/25%Cotton/15% Wool Ball Weight: 50g/184yds/1.75oz

Border Color:
3 skein(150g) of Berroco Comfort Dk Color: White (2702)
Fiber: 50% Super fine nylon/50% Super fine Acrylic
Ball Weight: 50g/178yds/1/75oz Crochet hook 4mm/G
Tapestry needle Scissors
Stitches used:
Sc: single crochet Dc: double crochet
Gauge:
Approximately 5 rows=2 inches
6dc and 5 ch1 = 2 inches
page1image10104 page1image10264
Instructions:
The Back:
With your 4mm hook and main color yarn make a magic circle,
Row 1: ch4 (counts as first dc and ch1), dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc in the magic circle, tighten the loose tail from the magic circle and turn your work. 4dc Total.
Row 2: ch4 (counts as first dc and ch1), make a dc at the base of your ch4, ch1, *in the ch1 sp from previous row make 1dc, ch1*, repeat from *to* across to the last ch1 sp, in the ch4 from previous row make 1 dc in the 3rd chain. Turn your work. 6dc total.
Row 3-29: repeat row 2, you will be increasing 2 dc per row. You will have 60dc in total that will include the ch4 at the beginning of the row.
This part of the vest will sit an inch or 2 below your bum, if it isnt long enough for your size then now is the time to make some more rows. Keep in mind there will be the border and fringe added to the length which will be roughly 15 inches. You will want to work your extra rows even no more increasing. See Row 62 for help. How ever many extra even rows you decide to do you will always have 60dc.

Time to decrease:
Row 30: ch4 (counts as first dc and ch1), sk the first ch1 sp, dc, ch1 in the next ch1 sp from previous row, *in the next ch1 sp from previous row make 1dc, ch1* repeat from *to* until you reach the last ch1 sp from the previous row, you will skip it and make a dc in the 3rd ch of the ch4 from the previous row, turn your work. Total of 59dc
Row 31-61: Repeat Row 30 you will continue to decrease 1 dc per row, by the end of Row 61 you should have 28dc in total.
The rest of the vest will be worked even, no more decreasing.

Row 62: ch4 (counts as first dc and ch1), in the first ch1 sp make a dc, ch1, *dc in the next ch1 sp, ch1* repeat *to* across leaving the last ch1 sp untouched, in the 3rd ch of the ch4 from the previous row make a dc, turn your work.
Row 63-75: repeat row 62, fasten off at the end of row 75 and hide all loose tails.
page2image20536
Front panel (make 2)

page2image21432
If you made your vest longer by adding more rows after row 29 your chains main need to be increased, see Note at the end of the front panel section for help.
With your 4mm hook and main color yarn make a slip knot and ch 170
Row 1: ch4 (counts as first dc and ch1), sk 4 ch and in the 5th make a dc, *ch1, sk a st, dc in next st* repeat from *to* across your chain, turn your work. You will have 85dc
You will now be decreasing for the front panel, on one end you will make a gentle decrease and the other end will be a steeper decrease. The steeper decrease is the armhole opening and the gentle decrease is the bottom of your vest. As you work your decreases make sure to remember which side you have a gentle decrease and the steeper decrease.
Row 2: ch4, (counts as first dc and ch1) sk the first ch1 sp and dc in the next ch1 sp from previous row (gentle decrease made), *ch1, dc in next ch1 sp, * repeat from *to* until there are 2dc left



Sk the dc, ch1, dc and make a dc in the ch4 sp (steep decrease made), turn your work.
Row 3: ch4 (counts as first dc and ch1), sk first 2 ch1 sp, dc in next ch1 sp (steep decrease made), *ch1, dc in next ch1 sp* repeat from *to* across making your last dc in the ch4 sp of the previous row (gentle decrease made). Turn your work
Row 4-21: Repeat row 2-3
Row 22: (Steep decrease at both ends) ch4, (counts as first dc and ch1), sk first 2 ch1 sp from previous row, dc in next ch1 sp, *ch1, dc in next ch1 sp* repeat from *to* until there are 2dc left, sk the (dc, ch1, dc) and make a dc in the ch4 sp. Turn your work
Row 23-36: Repeat Row 22, you will have dc, ch1, dc left at the end of Row 36. Fasten off and Hide all loose tails. Now make a second panel exactly the same.
Note: If you added extra even rows at the end of Row 29 you will need to adjust your beginning chain count. You will want to measure the chain to the back of your vest from the top to the point, add more chains in a multiple of 2 until the chain fits from the top to the bottom of the vest. Work the rows the same as the pattern above, you will not end on Row 36, keep decreasing until you have a (dc, ch1, dc) left. Fasten off and Repeat for the second side.

Border for the Front panels and Back

You will work a row of sc around the edge of the pieces like so. Front panels:
››
With your hook and main color yarn join at the bottom corner of the front panel (see below pic where to join your yarn, your panel will be free from the vest not like the pic) ,

you will sc along making 2sc in each ch spaces of the gentle decrease edge and when you reach the steeper edge you will make 3 sc in each ch sp, you will leave the first row of the front panel free, see pic below. Fasten off and hide loose tails.

For the Back panel you will do the same thing starting at the top corner and working around the edge till you reach the other side of the top corner. You will leave the top free, fasten off and hide loose tails.



The Assembly
Place the wrong sides facing each other, you will begin at the top by joining your yarn with a sl st to the first sc and you will sl st over the next 7 st, picking up the loop closest to you from the front of your work and the loop furthest from you on the back of your work. Fasten off.


Count 32 st down from the fasten off st and join your yarn (unless you want a larger opening then skip more st until your armhole is large enough for you) , making sure to count 32 st on both sides, sl st the loop closest to you and the loop furthest from you on your work, once you reached the end fasten off.

When you are finished this is what your work will look like.

Border
This first round will be a base for the border to work off of, with your Border color yarn and crochet hook join at the corner (see pic below)

page5image6512

You will work sc in the ch1 sp and 1 sc in dc all along the edge up to the neck and back down the other edge. (see pic below)

 
You will now sc in the bottom edge of your vest, sc in each sc until you reach the first sc you made, sl st with the first sc. Fasten off.
You will now join your border color yarn to any st in the armhole and make a round of sc, sl st with the first sc and fasten off, repeat for the second armhole.
Row 1: With the right sides of your work facing you, join the Border color yarn to the bottom corner of the front edge. You will ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each st until you reach the pointy part of the back (see pic below) you will make 3dc in that st, dc in each st until you reach the second side of your vest front.

Row 2: ch1, sc in the same st as ch1, ch6, sk 6, sc in next st, repeat this across your row, turn your work.
Row 3: ch2, sl st in the first ch6 from the previous row, ch3 (counts as first dc) , make 3 dc in same sp, ch2, 4dc in same ch6 sp, *in the next ch6 loop, 4dc, ch2, 4dc* repeat from *to* across, turn your work.

Row 4: ch3, *in the ch2 sp from previous row make (sc, ch15, sc, ch15, sc, ch15, sc), ch3, sk 4dc, sc in between the 4dc, ch3* Repeat from *to* across ending with a ch3 and sc in the last dc. Turn your work
Row 5: ch8, *in the first ch15 loop from previous row make 3sc, in the next loop make (3dc, ch2, 3dc), in the 3rd loop make 3sc* repeat from *to* across. Turn your work.
Row 6: *Ch3, in the ch2 sp make (3dc, ch2, 3dc), ch3, in the st between the 2 set of 3sc of row 5 and the loops from row 4 you will want to make a sc in between that space,* repeat from *to* across your row ending with ch3, sc in the first sc from the previous row. Turn your work.

Row 7: ch1, sc in the same sp *ch3, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in the ch2 sp from previous row, ch3, sc in the sc from the previous row, ch3* repeat from *to* across you row ending with a ch3 and sc in the base of the ch3 from the previous row. Fasten off your work and hide all loose tails.
Time to make the fringe for your border
Take your white yarn and start making several strands about 20 inches long. With your main color yarn make several 20 inch strands as well, you will use less of this color per ch2 space of your border.
Take 3 strands of white and 1 of the body color, fold them in half, take a crochet hook, pass through the ch2 space, grab the loop of the folded strand and pass it through the ch2 sp, yarn over and pull through the loop. You made your first fringe, repeat for the other chain 2 spaces. You can trim them to make them even or leave them as is. But that it is you are done, I hope you like it as much as I do. 

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 







All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

High Low Hem Crochet Mermaid Dress

High Low Hem Crochet Mermaid Dress
By: Annoo Crochet Designs


Video link: Click here
Triangle Top: from the 2:16 minute mark to the 9:50 minute mark

https://youtu.be/Ueuaofvm7iM?t=135

You will need:
800 grams of Berroco Modern Cotton Dk (DK weight yarn) 100g/3.5oz/209yds 60%Pima cotton,
40%Modal Rayon per hank
Color: #1616 (Elms)
Crochet hook 2.75mm
Scissors
Tapestry needle
Stitch marker

Stitches Used:
Sc: single crochet
Hdc: Half double crochet
Dc: double crochet
Tr: Treble crochet

This dress is for a size Small/Medium but you can modify it to fit any size. Just remember your stitch
count should be divisible by 16. The dress is made from the top down and is more for an
intermediate/expert crocheter.
Instructions:
Make 2 triangle tops

With your 2.75mm hook and yarn ch 21
Row 1: hdc in the 2nd ch from hook, hdc in each of the next 18ch, in the last ch make 2 hdc, ch2, 2hdc,
hdc along the other side of the chain total of 18 hdc. Total of 21hdc on each side of the ch2.
Row 2: Ch1 and turn your work, hdc in the first st, 1 hdc in the next 20 st, in the ch2 space make 2hdc,
ch2, 2hdc, work 21 hdc across to the end. Total of 23hdc on each side of the ch2
Row 3: ch1 turn your work, hdc in the first st, 1 hdc in the next 22 st, in the ch2 space make 2hdc, ch2,
2hdc, 1hdc in the next 23 hdc. Total of 25hdc on each side of the ch2.

Row 4: ch1 turn your work, hdc in the first st, 1 hdc in the next 24 st, in the ch2 space make 2hdc, ch2,
2hdc, 1 hdc in the next 25 hdc. Total of 27hdc on each side of the ch2.
Row 5: ch1 turn your wok, hdc in the first st, 1 hdc in the next 26 hdc, in the ch2 sp make 2hdc, ch2,
2hdc, 1hdc in the next 27 hdc. Total of 29hdc on each side of the ch2.
Row 6: ch1 turn your work, hdc in the first st, 1hdc in the next 28hdc, in the ch2 sp make 2hdc, ch2,
2hdc, 1hdc in the next 29hdc. Total of 31hdc on each side of the ch2.
Row 7: ch1 turn your work, hdc in the first st, 1hdc in the next 30hdc, in the ch2 sp make 2hdc, ch2,
2hdc, 1hdc in the next 31hdc. Total of 33hdc on each side of the ch2.
Row 8: ch1 turn your work, hdc in the first st, 1hdc in the next 32hdc, in the ch2 sp make 2hdc, ch2,
2hdc, 1hdc in the next 33hdc. Total of 35hdc on each side of the ch2.
Row 9: ch1 turn your work, hdc in the first st, 1hdc in the next 34hdc, in the ch2 sp make 2hdc, ch2,
2hdc, 1hdc in the next 35hdc. Total of 37hdc on each side of the ch2.
Row 10: ch1 turn your work, hdc in the first st, 1hdc in the next 36hdc, in the ch2 sp make 2hdc, ch2,
2hdc, 1hdc in the next 37hdc. Total of 39hdc on each side of the ch2.

Fasten off. Now make a second one, but DO NOT fasten off at the end of row 10.
Round 1: You will now make 80 chains, being careful not to twist your chains you will join to the second
triangle top with a sl st at the bottom corner, you will now make 26sc evenly across the bottom of your
triangle, once you reach the end of the second triangle chain 4, sl st at the corner of the first triangle and
make 26 sc evenly across the bottom of the triangle till you reach the end of your top.

*NOTE for other body types and sizes*
You can make your triangle top smaller or larger by making less or more rounds. Making sure to Fasten
off the first one and DO NOT fasten off the second one. Now if you do make your triangle tops larger or
smaller your chains and sc will be different for the joining round. You will want to make a number of
chains for your back and test it to fit. Once you find the chain count that fits you, you will want to make
1 sc in each row across your triangle bottom, making the same amount of sc in the second triangle
bottom. Remember to make the ch4 in between the 2 tops, though for a larger size you may need to
make 1 to 2 extra chains, again test for fit, if it fits make 1 round of sc in each st (this round counts as
your second round, continue below for Round 3).
Remember to keep track of how many st you have because in the next round you will increase to make
your stitches a multiple of 16.

Body of the dress:
Round 2: Sc in each of the 80 ch, across the 26 sc on one triangle, sc in each of the ch4, sc again in the
last 26 st of the second triangle top. (136st)
Round 3: In this round, you will need your stitch count to be a multiple of 16, I have 136 and need 144st
I will increase 8 st in this round evenly. Depending on your size you may not need to increase or you may
need less or more st to get a multiple of 16. For this size, sc around your dress, increasing 8 st evenly
around, making sure to make one of your increases in the center of the ch4. Count your st to make sure

you have a multiple of 16. This round is important for the pattern set up for this dress. Be sure to place a
st marker to mark the beginning and end of your rounds.
Round 4: sc in the first st, ch1, sk a st, sc in the next, *ch1, sk a st, hdc, ch1, sk a st, dc, ch1, sk a st, tr,
ch1, sk a st, tr, ch1, sk a st, dc, ch1, sk a st, hdc, ch1,sk a st, sc, ch1, sk a st, sc* repeat from *to*
around until you reach the first sc you made, you will end with a hdc ch1. You will have a total of 9
bridges.
Round 5: your last round you should have ended with a hdc, ch1. On top of the sc from the previous
round you will make a sc, ch1, in the next sc from previous round make a sc, *ch1, hdc in hdc from
previous round, ch1, dc in dc from previous round, ch1, tr in tr from previous round, ch1, tr in tr from
previous round, ch1, dc in dc from previous round, ch1, hdc in hdc from previous round, ch1, sc in sc
from previous round, ch1, sc in sc from previous round* repeat from *to* around ending with a hdc,
ch1, to end this round you will sl st at the top of your first sc. You will have 9 bridges at the end of this
round.
Round 6: ch1 sc in the same st, sc in each st from round 5, including the chain spaces, sl st with the first
sc. (144st)
Round 7: ch1, sc in the same st, sc in each st around, sl st with the first sc. (144st)
For the 8
th round you will be making your bridge pattern again, but you will want this round to be off
center from the previous bridge pattern. These next 2 rounds will begin with a treble instead of a sc. You
will want to make sure you ch 5 lines up with the 2

nd sc from round 5 (see pic below), if you must sl st to
it than do so now. If you do this part right your pattern should alternate from the previous bridge
pattern, your treble crochet should line up with the sc from Rounds 4 and 5. (see pic below)

Round 8: ch5 (counts as treble and ch1), *sk a st, dc, ch1, sk a st, hdc, ch1, sk a st, sc, ch1, sk a st, sc, ch1,
sk a st, hdc, ch1, sk a st, dc, ch1, sk a st, tr, ch1, sk a st, tr, ch1* repeat from *to* around you will end
with just 1 treble crochet and ch1, sl st with the 4th chain from the beginning of the round.
Round 9: ch5 (counts as first tr and ch1), you will match st for st from the previous round, so if there is a
dc you will dc in that st, hdc then you would hdc in the st, making sure to add a ch1 in between each st,
you will end the same as round 8 with 1 tr and ch1, sl st with the 4th chain from the beginning of the
round.

Round 10-11: Repeat Rounds 6-7
For your 12th round you will be making your bridge pattern again and you will want this round to be off
center from the previous bridge pattern. These next 2 rounds will begin with a sc instead of a tr. You will
want to make sure you ch 1 lines up with the 2

nd tr from round 9, if you must sl st to it, than do so now.
If you do this part right your pattern should alternate from the previous bridge pattern and line up with
the first bridge from Round 4-5, your single crochets should line up with the Trebles from Rounds 8 and
9.
Round 12: ch1, sc in the same st, *ch1, sk a st, hdc, ch1, sk a st, dc, ch1, sk a st, tr, ch1, sk a st, tr, ch1, sk
a st, dc, ch1, sk a st, hdc, ch1,sk a st, sc, ch1, sk a st, sc* repeat from *to* around until you will end
with a sc, ch1, sl st with the first sc you made. You will have a total of 9 bridges/waves
Round 13: ch1, sc in the same st, you will mirror your st from the previous round. Just as you did for
Round 9, sl st with the first sc you made.
Round 14-15: Repeat rounds 6-7.
For the next few rounds you will no longer be making the bridge pattern, but you will get back to it again
shortly.
Round 16: *ch3, sk 2st, sc* repeat from *to* around you until you reach the last 2 st, place a st marker
on those st and begin your next 2 rounds.
Round 17-18: *ch3, in the center of the ch3 from previous round sc* repeat from *to* around until you
reach your stitch marker.
Round 19: *make 3sc in the next 7 ch3 spaces, in the 8th ch3 sp make 4 sc* repeat from *to* around.
You will be adding 8 extra st in this round, for a total of 152st.
Round 20: you will sc in each st, increasing 8 sc evenly around, having a total of 160st.
Round 21: You will want to sl st until you are lined up with the 1st sc from the previous bridge, once you
are you will ch5 (counts as tr, ch1) sk a st, tr, *ch1, sk a st, dc, ch1, sk a st, hdc, ch1, sk a st, sc, ch1, sk a
st, sc, ch1, sk a st, hdc, ch1, sk a st, dc, ch1, sk a st, tr, ch1, sk a st, tr* repeat from *to* around, ending
with a dc, ch1, sl st with the 4th chain from the beginning of the round. You will have 10 bridges in total.
Round 22: ch5, you will now mirror the st from the previous round like you have before.
Round 23-24: Repeat rounds 6-7 You will have 160st.
Round 25-32: you will continue in the pattern like you had previously, working 2 rows of bridge pattern,
2 rows of sc, 2 more rows of the bridge pattern and lastly 2 more rows of sc. You will want to alternate
your bridge pattern, so the next 2 bridge rows are off center from the last 2 rows of the bridge pattern.
After Round 32 I decided now is the best time to add straps to the dress, if you feel the back is too low
you can sc across the back st for a number of rows till you reach the height you like, you will have to sew
the back to the front triangles later and your straps will be shorter.
Top Border:
Round 1: You will join your yarn to any st in the back and ch1, sc in the same st, sc in each st as it
presents itself to you, along the back and up the triangle top till you reach the ch2 sp, make 3 sc in that
sp, pick up each st till you reach the ch4 sp, sc in each st, then up the other side of the triangle top to the
ch2 sp, 3sc in the ch2 sp and sc your way back to the first sc you made.

Round 2: *ch3, sl st at the base of the sc, sc in the next 2 st* repeat from *to* all around the back of the
top up and down the triangle tops and back to the first picot st you made, sl st with it and fasten off
your work.
Straps:
Join your yarn at the top of one of the triangles (not in the ch3 of the picot but in between that) and
ch70 or the desired length you need for your size, now with the back of your dress facing you, drop the
chain from your hook, count 13 Picot (ch3) from the bottom of the triangle top to the back of your dress,
pass your crochet hook through a st between picots and pick up the dropped st, making sure not to twist
your chain, pull the live st through the back and sl st in the next st, you will now sc in each chain along
until you reach the front, sl st in the next st after the joining st you made for your chain, sl st in the next
st and fasten off.
Repeat this again for the second strap.
*Note* If you want a wider strap just make more rows of sc until you reach the width you like
remember to sl st to the front and the back when you end a new row, repeat for the second strap.

Back to the Body of the Dress:
You ended with 2 rounds of sc. You will now want to make your rounds of ch3, sc.
Rounds 33-35: Repeat rounds 16-18
Depending on the length you want your dress to be you will continue in the pattern increasing 8sc
evenly in each of the 2sc rows right before the bridge pattern begins, increasing a total of 16 extra st at
the end of the 2nd row. By doing so you will also increase the number of bridges you will have by 1 per
Dress Pattern Repeat.
You will want to repeat below 5 more times, I had 3 sets of 15 bridges, total of 240 st.

*Dress Pattern Repeat*
2 increasing rounds of sc (total of 16 extra st)
2 rounds bridge pattern (set 1)
2 rounds sc
2 rounds alternating bridge pattern from previous bridge pattern (set 2)
2 rounds sc
2 rounds alternating bridge pattern from previous bridge pattern (set 3)
2 rounds sc
1 rounds ch3, sk a st, sc,
2 rounds ch3, sc in ch3 sp from previous round
I wanted a floor/ankle length high/low hem so I started with 3 sets of 9 bridges and ended with 3 sets of
15 bridges, having 7 repeats of the above pattern in total. But you can make yours any length you wish
before you add your high/low hem, keep in mind that your st count won’t be the same as mine if you

made a different size or length but it will always need to be a multiple of 16 and you will always increase
by 16 in the first 2 rounds of the dress pattern repeat.
After you have repeated your Dress Pattern 7 times you will make 2 more rounds of sc, increasing 8 st
per round evenly, increasing your st count to 256 (again if you are making a shorter version or different
size, your st count will be different, but as always a multiple of 16) Fasten off.
Now let’s work on the High/Low Hem
You will want to find the center of your dress front, you will lay your dress on a flat surface and from the
space between the 2 triangles follow an imaginary line down the front to the bottom hem, mark that st
with a st marker. Or you can fold the dress in half, folding the 2 triangles on top of each other and
finding your center that way, mark that st with a st marker.

Row 1: I joined my yarn in the st above the second treble in the last bridge round, joining with a sl st, sl
st in the next 7 st, total of 8 sl st, you will *ch3, sk 2 st, sc in the next* repeat form *to* until you have
9st left before the first st you joined your yarn, sc in the 9th st, turn your work.
Row 2 -3: sl st in the ch3 sp, *ch3, sc in next ch3 sp* repeat from *to* until you reach the last ch3, sc in
it and turn your work.
Row 4: sl st in the first ch3, *in the next ch3 make 3 sc* repeat from *to* to the last ch3, sl st in it and
turn your work.
Row 5: sl st in the next 3 st, sc in each st to the last 3 st and turn your work.
Row 6: (Now is the tricky part!! Beginning your bridge pattern) First you will sl st in the next 3 st, now
you are going to find the 2 tr from your last bridge, draw a line up from the first treble, that st you meet
will be a sc, count backwards from this st like so to determine your first st( sk a st, hdc, sk a st, dc, sk a st,
etc... until you reach your 3rd sl st of row 6, now you found out what st you need to start your bridge
row with!!
Keep with the bridge pattern like you have in previous bridge rounds just make sure to start with the st
you figured out from counting backwards, work the row in the pattern until you reach the last 3 st, turn
your work.

(Bridge row pattern: sc, ch1, sk a st, sc, ch1, sk a st, hdc, ch1, sk a st, dc, ch1, sk a st, tr, ch1, sk a st, tr,
ch1, sk a st, dc, ch1, sk a st, hdc, ch1, sk a st)
Row 7: Mirror the last row, making sure to put a ch1 between each st.
Row 8: sc in the ch sp, sc in the next st, sc in the next ch sp, repeat that across your row, your last sc will
be in the ch1 sp before the last st, turn your work.
Row 9: sl st in the next 2 st, sc in each st to the last 3 st, sl st in the next st and turn your work.
Row 10: will be another row of bridges, again like in the pattern it will be off center from the previous
set of bridges, you will need to figure out like you did in Row 6 except you will find the first sc and the st
above will be a treble, count back to find your first st for this row, sl st in the first st and begin your row
with your determined st. Turn your work
Row 11: Mirror the last row, making sure to put a ch1 in between each st.
Row 12: sl st over the next st, sc in each st and ch sp across until you reach the last st, sl st and turn your
work.
Row 13: sl st in the first 2 st, sc along until you reach the last 3 st, sl st in the next st, turn your work.
Row 14: sl st in the first st, you will make your last set of bridges, find out what st of the bridge pattern
to start with by counting back like in row 6. Once you find your st work your pattern across the row to
the last 3 st, end with a sc, turn your work.
Row 15: Mirror the last row, making sure to put a ch1 in between each st.
Row 16-17: Repeat Row 12-13
Row 18: sl st in the first st, *ch3, sk 2 st, sc in next st* repeat from *to* leaving the last st untouched,
turn your work.
Row 19-20: Repeat row 2-3
You will continue to decrease on both sides like you have been doing and repeating rows 4-20 once
more. For the next 2 rows you will repeat Rows 4-5, I had 256 st when I started the hem and ended with
92st. Now let’s work on the Border for the hem.
Hem Border:
Round 1: you will be working in the inside of your hem first, along the sides of the row. You will sc
evenly along the side of your hem and bottom, for your first st you can place a st marker to mark your
beginning st, in the rows ending and beginning with a sc/sl st you will pick up 1sc, in the rows with a
chain 5 or tr you will pick up 3 st, or less if you feel 3 is too much, in the ch3 spaces make 2 sc, work
your way up the side of the hem to the center sc in each of the next 16 st and then repeat again down
the other side of your hem, when you reach the bottom you will pick up 1 sc per st across until you
reach the st marker/first sc.
You don’t want your hem too tight or too loose so be sure to add your sc evenly over the hem of your
dress.
Round 2: (Picot Round) *ch3, sl st at the base of the sc, sc in the next 2 st* repeat from *to* around
until you reach the first picot you made, sl st and fasten off. Hide all loose tails and you are done!

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 







All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo