Thursday, March 23, 2017

Boho/Festival Crochet Beach Top Tutorial

Boho ?Festival Crochet Beach Top Tutorial
By: Annoo Crochet Designs


Tutorial Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CztES_mXhBg
You will need:
3 Skeins of Berroco Comfort DK (Dk weight yarn) 1.75oz/50g/178yd per skein Color: 2703
OR for a Variegated top
Knit Picks Felici Sock Yarn Crochet hook 2.75mm Scissors
Tapestry needle


Stitches used:
Sc: single crochet Dc: Double crochet Vst: (dc, ch1, dc)
Instructions:
It is very easy to size for your personal preference, the larger the pentagon the larger the size and the smaller the pentagon the smaller the size.
With your yarn and hook make a magic circle and ch1,
Round 1: make 30 sc in the center of the magic circle, sl st with the first sc.
Round 2: ch3 (counts as dc), dc in the next 5sc, *ch2, dc in the next 6 sc* repeat from *to* around ch2 and sl st with the ch3. You will have 5-6dc Petal sections.
Round 3: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in the next 5dc, *ch2, in the ch2 sp make a Vst (dc, ch1, dc), ch2, dc in the next 6dc* Repeat from *to* around, ch2, in the last ch2 sp make a Vst (dc, ch1, dc) ch2, sl st with the top of the ch3.
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Round 4: ch3, in the next 5dc you will make a decrease/petal (yo, insert hook in st, yo, draw hook through st, yo, pull through the first 2 loops repeat that over the next 4st, then yo and draw through all loops) *ch3, in the center of the Vst you will make (3dc, ch3, 3dc), ch3, over the next 6dc you will make a decrease/petal (yo, insert hook in the st, yo, draw hook through st, yo, pull through the first 2 loops, repeat that over the next 5st, then yo and draw through all the loops)* repeat from *to* around, ch3, in the last Vst make (3dc, ch3, 3dc), ch3 sl st with the top of first decrease/petal you made. You will have 5 petals made with 5 corners.
Round 5: ch4 (counts as first dc and ch1) in the same st make a dc (you made your first Vst), *ch3, over the next 3dc you will make a decrease making a leaf, just like in the previous round when you decreased (yo, insert hook in st, yo, draw hook though st, yo, pull through 2 loops, repeat over the next 2 st, yo over draw through all loops) ch3, in the ch3 sp you will make a Vst (dc, ch1, dc) in the 2nd ch, ch3, Repeat again the decrease over the next 3dc, ch3, in the top of the petal from the previous round make a Vst (dc, ch1, dc) * repeat from *to* around to the last corner, ch3, over the next 3dc you will make a decrease (yo, insert hook in st, yo, draw hook though st, yo, pull through 2 loops, repeat over the next 2 st, yo over draw through all loops) ch3, in the ch3 sp you will make a Vst (dc, ch1, dc) in the 2nd ch, ch3, Repeat again the decrease over the next 3dc, ch3, sl st with the 3rd ch from the beginning of the round.
Round 6: ch4 (counts as dc and ch1) in the same st make a dc (you made your first Vst), in the next dc of the Vst you will make a Vst (dc, ch1, dc), *ch3, in the Corner Vst from the previous round make (3dc, ch3, 3dc) ch3, in the first dc of the Vst from the previous round make a Vst, in the next dc make another Vst,* repeat from *to* around, ch3, in the last Vst (3dc, ch3, 3dc), ch3 sl st with the 3rd ch of the ch4 from beginning of the round. You will have the first half of your leaf corner pattern complete and will have 2Vst between corners
Round 7: ch4 (counts as dc and ch1) in the same st make a dc (counts as first Vst), sk 1dc, on top of the next you will make another Vst, in the last dc you will make a Vst, *ch3, 3dc dec over the next 3dc, ch3, in the ch3 sp from previous round make a Vst in the 2nd ch, 3dc dec over the next 3dc, ch3, in the first dc of the first Vst make a Vst, sk a dc and make a Vst in the next dc, sk a dc and make another Vst in the last Dc of the last Vst* Repeat from *to* around, ch3, 3dc dec over the next 3dc, ch3, in the ch3sp from the previous round make a Vst in the 2nd ch, 3dc dec over the last 3dc, ch3, sl st with the 3rd ch of the ch4 from the beginning of the round. You will have completed your leaf corner pattern and will have 3Vst between corners.
Round 8: ( First Half of the Leaf Corner Pattern) Ch4, dc in the same st (counts as first Vst), then skipping a dc and making a vst in the next, repeating across and your last vst is in the last dc of the last Vst from the previous round, *[corner] ch3, in the center of the corner Vst (3dc, ch3, 3dc), ch3, [first half of your corner leaf pattern made], making your first Vst in the first dc of the first Vst from the previous round, then skipping a dc and making a vst in the next, repeating across, making your last Vst in the last dc of the last Vst from the previous round,* repeat from *to* around to the last corner, ch3, in the center of the corner Vst (3dc, ch3, 3dc), ch3, sl st with the 3rdch of the ch4 from the beginning of the round.
Round 9: (Second Half of the Leaf Corner Pattern) Ch4, dc in the same st (counts as first Vst), then skipping a dc and making a vst in the next, repeating across and your last vst is in the last dc of the last
Vst from the previous round, *[corner] ch3, 3dc dec over the next 3dc, ch3, in the ch3sp from the previous round make a Vst in the 2nd ch, 3dc dec over the last 3dc, ch3 [second half of Leaf corner pattern made], making your first Vst in the first dc of the first Vst from the previous round, then skipping a dc and making a vst in the next, repeating across, making your last Vst in the last dc of the last Vst from the previous round,* repeat from *to* around to the last corner, ch3, for the last corner 3dc dec over the next 3dc, ch3, in the ch3sp from the previous round make a Vst in the 2nd ch, 3dc dec over the last 3dc, ch3, sl st in the 3rdch of the ch4 from the beginning of the round.
Dc dec ( yo insert hook in st, yo, draw hook through st, yo, pull through first 2 loops, repeat that over the next 2st, yo, draw through all loops)
Now that you have an idea of how the pattern will go you will continue to repeat these last 2 rows until you reach the size you want, making sure you end with an Odd round. For the size small I repeated the last 2 rows until I had 13 Vst in between corners or 7 leaf corners (1 full Leaf corner is made up of the 2 rounds then repeated)
Once you are done fasten off and make another for the back of your top. Hide all loose tails.
Assemble: lay your pentagons right sides together, with your hook join your yarn to any corner in the ch1sp, you will sl st through the st closest to you from the front of your work and the st furthest from you on the back of your work, matching st for st, you will work like this until you (for the size small) have 4 Vst left you will leave these unworked for the opening of your armpit (the number of Vst will vary depending the size you make) DO NOT Fasten off, you will now work on the one side of your top and you will sc in each st and chain along until you reach the ch1 sp of your corner Vst, ch40 (for the small/medium, about 20ch for a toddler, 30ch for a childs, 50ch for Large, 60ch for Xlarge, if you need to add more or less for your size just remember the number for the second strap) Now being careful not to Twist your chain you will sl st it to the Ch1 sp of the corner at the opposite side of your top (creating the arm hole opening), you will then sc in each st and ch until you reach the side seam/bottom of the arm hole opening, sl st with the first sc from the other side and fasten off.
Keeping your work right sides together, lay your work in front of you the point of the pentagon should be the bottom of your top. Skipping that bottom point join your yarn in the next Corner and assemble the same as you did the first side seam. Use the photo below to help. Hide all your loose tails on the wrong side of your work. You can leave your top like this or add an edge to your neckline and slightly widen your straps.



Top neck edge and widening the straps: Turn your work right side out, join your yarn at the left of your strap on the right side of your top in the ch1 sp of the corner.
Ch1,* sk 2 st, in the 3rd make 4dc in the same st, sk 2st, in the 3rd sl st* repeat from *to* across your neck line until you reach the other strap, if your last st is a 4dc in the same st as the ch of the strap then you will sk2 ch and sl st before you sc in each ch across otherwise sc in each ch across till you reach the back, then you will repeat from *to* across the back of your works edge repeating the same sc along the ch for your second strap as you did the first half, sl st with the first st and fasten off, hide all loose tails.
Your top is done but you can add some fringe to the bottom of your top like I did. You can go to the 44:56 Minute mark on the Video for help on how to make the fringe and adding it to your top.
Take your yarn and fold it every 10 inches I did it 3 times so you have 4 strings, but you can fold yours more if you want a thicker fringe. You will then add it to your top, I started at the Middle of the front in the corner Vst and placed them evenly along each side of the top and repeated it again for the back.
Fold your fringe in half, insert your hook in a st and grab the fringe, pulling the loop through the st and then grabbing the strands and pulling them through the loop, pull the loose strands to tighten the loop, but not too tight and continue to add your fringe to the bottom of your top.
Video Links:
44:56 minute mark: https://youtu.be/CztES_mXhBg?t=2696

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 




All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

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Wednesday, March 22, 2017

Easy Boho "not so Granny" Sweater

Easy Boho Not So GrannyCrochet Sweater
By: Annoo Crochet Designs


Tutorial Link: click here
You will need:
Koigu Kersti 100 % Merino yarn in Black: (light grey to Black) 200 gr of cream
200 gr of light grey 150 gr dark grey 100 gr Black
Crochet hook 3.75mm/F Scissors
Tapestry needle

Stitches Used:
Sc: single crochet
Dc: double crochet
Size: this is a size small/medium Gauge:
Small Granny: 4 1⁄2 inches
Larger Granny: 5 inches

Instructions:
For this sweater, which fits a small/medium you will need to make 40 small grannies for the body, 14 small and 2 larger grannies for the sleeves.
I made mine in the color combo like this:
10- light grey center and cream around the edge 6- Dark grey centers and cream around the edge 6- cream centers and light grey around the edge 6-cream centers and dark grey around the edge 6-light grey centers and dark grey around the edge 6-black centers and dark grey around the edge
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Sleeves
14-cream centers and light grey around the edge
2- (larger grannies) cream centers and light grey around the edge

To make a small granny:
Take your cream yarn and hook and make a magic circle,
Round 1: ch3, in the magic circle make 2dc, ch2, 3dc, ch2, 3dc, ch2, 3dc, ch2, then sl st with the top of the ch3, pull the end yarn to close your magic circle.
Round 2: sl st over the 3dc and into the ch2, ch3, 2dc, ch3, 3dc in the same sp, ch1, in the next 3 ch2 sp for the corners you will make (3dc, ch3, 3dc, ch1) you will sl st with the first ch3
Round 3: sl st your way to the ch3 sp, ch3, 2dc, ch3, 3dc in the ch3 sp, in the next ch1 sp you will make *3dc, ch1, in the next corner you will (3dc, ch3, 3dc) ch1* repeat from *to* 2 more times, in the ch1 sp you will make 3dc, ch1, sl st with the ch3 from the beginning of the round. Fasten off
Join your Light grey yarn in a ch3 corner sp,
Round 4: ch3, 2dc, ch3, 3dc in the same corner sp, ch1, *in the next ch1 sp make 3dc, ch1, in the next ch1 sp make 3dc, ch1, in the corner sp make (3dc, ch3, 3dc), ch1* repeat from *to* 2more times, in the next 2 ch1 sp make (3dc, ch1), sl st with the first ch3.
Round 5: sl st your way to the corner, ch3, 2dc, ch3, 3dc in the same corner sp, ch1 *in the next 3 ch1 sp you will make 3dc, ch1 in each sp, in the corner you will (3dc, ch3, 3dc), ch1* repeat from *to* 2 more times, in the last 3 ch1 sp you will again make 3dc, ch1 in each sp, sl st with the first ch3. Fasten off and hide all loose tails.
Make all your grannies either to the color scheme I did for mine or your own.
Make your 2 larger grannies the same as your smaller ones just making 2 extra rounds increasing a 3dc, ch1 cluster in between each corner.
The photo is just a quick diagram on how to lay out your squares. The bottom 6-black centers and dark grey around the edge

The 2nd row from the bottom are the 6-light grey centers and dark grey around the edge The 3rd row-6-cream centers and dark grey around the edge
The 4
th row-6- cream centers and light grey around the edge
The 5
th row-6- Dark grey centers and cream around the edge
The 6th row- 6 light grey center and cream around the edge The 7th row- 4- light grey center and cream around the edge
You will now sc your granny squares together, starting with the bottom 2 rows of grannies you will join them in a zig zag motion,



With your black yarn and grab a square from the bottom row and the square from the row above, starting in the middle of the ch3 corner, in the loops furthest on the front of your work and the loops closest on the back of your work, matching st for st, you will sc in those loops along your granny until ending on the 1st st of your ch3 on the other side of your Granny, you will now grab a granny from your second row and sc it with the bottom granny you just added, You will continue to alternate joining the grannies from each of the 2 first .



Continue to add your grannies in the same manner for each row. Use the chart below to help with placement of your squares.




Commented [MG1]:
rows
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Once you have your grannies joined like the graph above, you will now join the 2 ends together, the same way you have been with a sc in the loops furthest from you on your front work and the closest to you on the back of your work, matching st for st. You will fold your work in half so the right side of your work is facing you and using the chart below for help, you will sc from A-F. When you fold it in half your pieces will fit like a puzzle, from A-F, everything should line up. Once you have that joined you will now join the shoulder seam.

Shoulder Seam:

You will sc the front and back together between the arrows, see the above pic. Leaving the Grannies below the arrows open this will be your sleeve opening.
Neck Opening Border
Row 1:
With your black yarn and hook you will sl st in a granny at the neck edge, sc in each st around the
neck until you are back to the first sc you made, sl st with that sc.
Row 2: (picot border) sc in the next st, ch3, in the base of the ch3 sl st, *sl st in the next st, sc in the next ch3, in the base of the ch3 sl st* repeat form *to* around the neck edge until you are at the first sc, sl st with it and fasten off. Sew in the loose tails.
Bottom Edge Border:
Row 1:
With your black yarn join in any corner of a granny and you will sc in each st around each granny, Row2: Repeat Row 2 for the neck border. Fasten off and hide all loose tails.

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Sleeves:
You will take 7 of the small grannies and 1 of the larger grannies, lay them out like in the pic your largest granny will be where the arrow is pointing to. Assemble them the same way you did the body of the sweater, with your black yarn and a sc.



Once you have that done you will now fold your sleeve in half, it will look like a triangle, in the space that is empty you will fold over the granny that the arrow is pointing to in the pic, to fill the void. Sc that granny with the grannies from the other side.

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You will now have something that looks like a cannoli shell

Your big granny should be on the right, this granny is the granny you will join to your sleeve opening on the body of the sweater.

You will assemble it with the second row of grannies on your sweater, see pic below, starting at one side then working your way to the back of the sleeve. Using the same sc assembly method you have been for the sweater.

Now you will sc the 2 underarm grannies together. Once you are done with that repeat the sleeve assembly for the other sleeve.

Sleeve Edge Border:
Round 1: Join your black yarn to any st on the sleeves edge, sc in each st around.
Round 2: *sc in the next st, ch3, sl st in the base of the ch3, sl st in the next st* repeat from *to* around until you reach the first sc, sl st with it and fasten off. Repeat for the other sleeve, Hide all loose tails and you are done.

Smaller or Larger sizes:
Measure your bust, or the largest part of your upper body making sure to add a few extra inches to the measurement, unless you want a tight fit, take that number and divide it by 6, that is the number of squares that go around your body in the pattern.
The number you have now will be the size your granny measured from one corner to the other, not across but diagonlly, will need to be. For example I wanted a 39 inch opening so the square I made was 4 1⁄2 inches, but it measures 6 1⁄2 from corner to corner diagonally giving me 39 inches.
If you want to make this larger you can increase the rows on the smaller grannies until you get the size you need, when you do then you will make 2 more grannies the same way but with 2 extra rows. OR
Another way you could try to make it larger is by using a larger hook and a worsted weight yarn once you get the size square you need to make, make one to gauge testing different hooks, until you get the size you need.
You could also make this smaller by using a smaller hook and Thinner weight yarn. I hope this helps you to make your Not So Grannysweater in your size. 

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 




All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Sunday, March 12, 2017

My Little Black Crochet Dress


My Little Black Crochet Dress Tutorial



You will need:
Berroco Comfort DK 50% Superfine Nylon/50% Superfine Acrylic 50g/178yds
10 skeins for size S, you will need more if you make a larger size or a longer dress Color: (2743) Licorice

2.75mm crochet hook Scissors
Tapestry needle

Stitches used:
Sc: single crochet
Dc: Double crochet
Vst: V stitch (dc, ch1, dc)
Gauge:
8 Vst and 8 rows are about 4 inches
Written pattern is for Sizes XS, (S, M/L) pattern made in the video tutorial is made for a S
*See note for larger or smaller sizes


Instructions:
With your yarn and hook make a slip knot and ch 138 (153, 174), being careful not to twist your chain you will sl st with the first ch forming a circle.
Round 1: ch4, dc in the same st (counts as first Vst), *sk 2st, in the next st you will make a Vst (dc, ch1, dc)* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the 3rd chain of your ch4. At the end of your round you will have 46, (51,58) Vst
Round 2-10 (12,15): sl st in the first Vst from previous round, Ch4, dc in the same sp, *in the next Vst make a Vst (dc, ch1, dc)* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the 3rd ch of your ch4.
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Sleeve Opening and Back Shoulder straps:
From now on you will no longer work in the round, you will be working in rows.
Row 1: ch3, sk to the next Vst and make a Vst (dc, ch1, dc), make a Vst in the next 20 (22,25) Vst, dc in the next Vst, turn your work. You will have a total of 21, (23, 26) Vst.
Row 2: ch3, skipping the next Vst and in the 2nd V st after your Ch3 make a Vst, make a Vst in each Vst across, dc in the top of the ch3 from the previous row, Turn your work. You will have a total of 20,(22,25) Vst.
Row 3-5: Repeat Row 2,
Row 6-7: Ch3, make a Vst in each Vst across, dc in the top of the ch3 from previous row, turn your work. At the end of Row 7 you will have 17,(19,23) Vst total. DO NOT fasten off your work, you will now work on the shoulder straps.
Shoulder Strap:
Row 8:
Ch3, (do not skip next Vst) make a Vst (dc, ch1, dc) in the next 4 Vst, dc in the next Vst, Turn your
work.
For Larger sizes you may want to make 5 Vst for your strap, just follow the rows as follows except for the Vst count.
Row 9: ch3, Vst in each Vst across, dc in the top of the ch3 from the previous row. Turn your work, total of 4 Vsts.
Row 10-13 (15,17): Repeat Row 19, fasten off and leave a long enough tail to sew the Shoulder straps together.
You will repeat rows 8-13 (15,17) on the opposite side of your top, joining your yarn in the top of the ch3 from the previous row.
Now you will work the Front:
At the right hand of your work join your yarn in the first free Vst after the ch3 of the back strap.
Row 1: ch3, sk to the next Vst and make a Vst (dc, ch1, dc), make a Vst in the next 20 (23,27) Vst, dc in the next Vst, turn your work. You will have a total of 21, (24, 28) Vst.
Row 2: ch3, skipping the next Vst and in the 2nd V st after your Ch3 make a Vst, make a Vst in each Vst across, dc in the top of the ch3 from the previous row, Turn your work. You will have a total of 20,(23,27) Vst.
Row 3-5: Repeat Row 2. At the end of Row 5 you will have 17,(19,23) V st in total. Do not fasten off your work, you will now work on the shoulder straps.
Shoulder Strap:
Row 6:
Ch3, (do not skip next Vst) make a Vst (dc, ch1, dc) in the next 4 Vst, dc in the next Vst, Turn your
work.
For Larger sizes you may want to make 5 Vst for your strap, just follow the rows as follows except for the Vst count.
Row 7: ch3, Vst in each Vst across, dc in the top of the ch3 from the previous row. Turn your work, total of 4 Vsts.
Row 8-13 (15,17): Repeat Row 19, fasten off and leave a long enough tail to sew the Shoulder straps together.
You will repeat rows 6-13 (15,17) on the opposite side of your top, joining your yarn in the top of the ch3 from the previous row.
Your front neckline will be 2 rows shorter than your back.
You will now turn your work wrong side out and sew the front and back shoulder seams together, hide all loose tails and turn your work right side out when they are both sewn together.
Skirt
You will be working in the ch2 spaces and the bottom of the Vst, join your yarn to any of the ch2 spaces, I like to join mine in a ch2 space where the side seam would be.
Round 1: You will now, sc along the bottom of your top evenly spacing 144(156,180) sc around, sl st with the first sc you made. You want to make sure this rows sc number is in a multiple of 12.
Round 2: You will want to make sure this row is set up right as it will be your base for the rest of your pattern stitch placement. Ch3 (counts as first dc), in the next 3 st dc, *ch1, sk a st, 1dc in the next 2st, ch1, sk a st, Dc in the next 7st* Repeat form *to* around to the last 3st, you will dc in each st, sl st with the ch3 from the beginning of the round.
Round 3: Ch4 (counts as dc and ch1), *sk the next 3dc and ch1, make 4dc in the next 2dc, ch1, sk the ch and the next 3dc, Dc in the 4th dc* Repeat from *to* around ending with a ch1, sl st with the 3rd ch of the ch4 from the beginning of the round.
Round 4: ch3, in the ch1 sp make a dc, *ch1, sk3 st, in the 4th make 3dc, in the next st make 3dc, ch1, in the ch1 sp from the previous round dc, dc in the next st and dc in the next ch1 sp,* Repeat from *to* around, ending with 1dc in the ch1 sp, sl st with the top of the ch3 from the beginning of the round.
Round 5: Ch3, dc in the dc from the previous round, dc in the ch1 sp, *ch1, sk 2st, 2dc in the 3rd st, 2dc in the next st, ch1, dc in the ch1 sp from the previous round, dc in each of the 3 dc, dc in the next ch1 sp,* Repeat from *to* around ending with 1dc in the ch1 sp and last st, sl st with the ch3 from the beginning of the round.
Round 6: Repeat Round 2


Your skirt will be made up of 5 rounds that are repeated and you will be increasing 2st in between your Fans for every row of your 5 rounds. So you started with 1dc in between your fans, the next set of 5 rounds you will start off with 3, and the next set will be 5, and so on and so on.
2nd set of increase rounds:
Round 1: ch3, dc in the next dc, *ch1 sk the next 2dc and ch1sp, in the next st make 5dc, in the next st make 5 more dc, ch1, sk the ch1 sp and 2dc, dc in the next 3st* repeat from *to* around ending with 1dc in the last st, sl st with the ch3.
Round 2: ch3, dc in the next st, dc in the ch1 sp, *ch1, sk the next 4st, 4dc in the next 2 dc, sk the next 4dc, ch1, in the ch1 sp dc, dc in the next 3st, dc in the ch1 sp,* Repeat from *to* around ending with 1dc in the last ch1 sp and dc in the last st, sl st with the ch3.
Round 3: ch3, dc in the next 2st, dc in the ch1 sp, *ch1, sk the next 3st, 3dc in the next 2st, ch1, sk the next 3st, in the ch1 sp from the previous round dc, dc in the next 5st, dc in the next ch1 sp* Repeat from *to* around ending with a dc in ch1 sp and dc in the last 2 st, sl st with the ch3.
Round 4: ch3, dc in the next 3st, dc in the ch1 sp, *ch1, sk the next 2st, 2dc in the next 2st, ch1, sk the next 2st, in the ch1 sp from the previous round dc, dc in the next 7st, dc in the ch1 sp,* repeat from *to* around ending with making dc in the ch1 sp and dc in each of the next 3st, sl st with the ch3.
Round 5: ch3, dc in the next 4st, dc in the ch1sp, *ch1, sk the next st, 1dc in the next 2st, ch1, sk the next st, dc in the ch1 sp, dc in the next 9st, dc in the next ch1 sp* Repeat from *to* around ending with making a dc in the ch1 sp and dc in the next 4st, sl st with the ch3.
The pattern repeats again with 2st increased between the fans, you will start off with 5dc in between fans in this round instead of 3 and end with 13 instead of 11. Your fans are the clusters between the ch1 spaces. The arrows in the pic below point out the fans.

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3rd set of increase rounds:
Round 1: ch3, dc in the next 2st, *ch1, sk the next 3st and ch1 sp, 5dc in the next 2 dc, sk the next 3st, ch1, in the ch1 sp dc, dc in the next 3st, dc in the ch1 sp,* Repeat from *to* around ending with dc in the last ch1 sp and dc in the last st, sl st with the ch3.
Round 2: ch3, dc in the next 2st, dc in the ch1 sp, *ch1, sk the next 4st, 4dc in the next 2 st, ch1, sk the next 4st, in the ch1 sp dc, dc in the next 5st, dc in the next ch1 sp* repeat from *to* around ending with a dc in the ch1 sp, dc in the last 2st, sl st with the ch3.
Round 3: ch3, dc in the next 3st, dc in the ch1 sp, *ch1, sk the next 3st, 3dc in the next 2st, ch1, sk the next 3st, in the ch1 sp dc, dc in the next 7st, dc in the next ch1 sp* repeat from *to* around ending with a dc in the ch1 sp, dc in the last 3st, sl st with the ch3.
Round 4: ch3, dc in the next 4st, dc in the ch1 sp, *ch1, sk the next 2st, 2dc in the next 2st, ch1, sk the next 2st, in the ch1 sp dc, dc in the next 9st, dc in the next ch1 sp* repeat from *to* around ending with a dc in the ch1 sp, dc in the last 4dc, sl st with the ch3.
Round 5: ch3, dc in the next 5st, dc in the ch1 sp, *ch1, sk the next st, dc in the next 2st, ch1, sk the next st, in the ch1 sp dc, dc in the next 11st, dc in the next ch1 st* Repeat from *to* around ending with a dc in the ch1 sp, dc in the last 5st, sl st with the ch3.
4th set of increase rounds:
Round 1: ch3, dc in the next 3st, *ch1, sk the ch1 sp and 5dc in the next 2 st, sk the next ch1 sp and next 3st, dc in the next 5st, sk the next 3st and ch1 sp* repeat from *to* around ending with dc in the last 3st.
Round 2: ch3, dc in the next 3st, dc in the ch1 sp, *ch1, sk the next 4st, 4dc in the next 2st, ch1, sk the next 4st, dc in the ch1 sp, dc in the next 7st, dc in the ch1 sp* repeat from *to* around ending with dc in the ch1 sp, dc in the last 3st, sl st with the ch3.
Round 3: ch3, dc in the next 4st, dc in the ch1 sp, * ch1, sk the next 3st, 3dc in the next 2st, ch1, sk the next 3st, dc in the ch1 sp, dc in the next 9st, dc in the ch1 sp* Repeat from *to* around ending with dc in the ch1 sp, dc in the last 4st, sl st with the ch3.
Round 4: ch3, dc in the next 5st, dc in the ch1 sp, *ch1, sk the next 2st, 2dc in the next 2st, sk the next 2st, dc in the ch1 sp, dc in the next 11st, dc in the ch1 sp* repeat from *to* around ending with dc in the ch1 sp, dc in the last 5st, sl st with the ch3.
Round 5: ch3, dc in the next 6st, dc in the ch1 sp, *ch1, sk the next st, dc in the next 2st, sk the next st, dc in the ch1 sp, dc in the next 13st, dc in the ch1 sp* Repeat from *to* around ending with dc in ch1 sp, dc in the last 6st, sl st with the ch3.
For all sizes: Now that you have the hang of increasing you will continue with the 5 rounds repeating the increases until you are at the fullness you desire and the length as well. If you want your skirt to be longer with less flow, stop increasing and repeat the last 5 rounds you finished until you reach your desired length.
I made a total of 40 rounds, which I continued to increase over the 5 rounds for 8 times. My last set of 5 rounds started with 19 dc in between fans and on the 5th round I had 27 dc in between the fans.
Once you are happy with the fullness and length fasten off and hide all loose tails.
Below times.
Round Round Round Round Round Round Round Round
are the numbers of dc between fans for the beginning and end of each 5 Rounds I repeated for 8
Begin
1: 5 dc in between fans 1: 7dc between fans
1: 9dc between fans
1: 11dc between fans 1: 13dc between fans 1: 15dc between fans 1: 17dc between fans 1: 19dc between fans

End
Round 5: 13dc between fans Round 5: 15dc between fans Round 5: 17dc between fans Round 5: 19dc between fans Round 5: 21dc between fans Round 5: 23dc between fans Round 5: 25dc between fans Round 5: 27dc between fans
NOTE:
You can make this smaller or
making sure it is a multiple of 3. Making sure that the number of Vst you end up with as well is divisible

larger, you will need to make your chain to fit just below your breast,

by 2. Get your chain number divide that by 3 and if the number you are left with can be divided in 2 you are set, if not add an extra 3 ch.
You will then follow Row 1 of the top and continue until your tube fits just under your breast to just under your armpit.
You will start the Sleeve and strap part of you top, working the same as the directions just your number of Vst in between the ch3 and dc will be more or less.
For your shoulder straps you will follow it the same as the pattern but you may need to add a few more rows or take off a few rows, just remember to repeat that number on the opposite side. Repeat the same for the front sleeve and strap part, sew the straps and start to work on your skirt.
For the skirt you will want to make sure the amount of sc you add will be a multiple of 12. You will have the base chain number you started with for your top, then use that to add more st till you can divide that by 12, those extra numbers are the sts you will increase evenly across your tops bottom per the instructions.
Then continue with the pattern until you are happy with the length and fullness. 

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 



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