Monday, October 1, 2018

Easy Breezy Bernadette style vest

Easy Breezy Bernadette Style Vest Crochet
By: Annoo Crochet Designs

Video Link:click here

Skill level: Beginner/Intermediate

Gauge: With 10mm hook, 8hdc and 5 rows= 4inches
Size: S-L (XL-3X)
This is an oversized style sweater, there are 2 size ranges Small – Large and in parentheses are Plus size
directions.
You will need:
2 (3) Caron Latte Cakes (Bulky weight #5)
Color: Red Macaron
Fiber: 58% Acrylic, 42% Nylon
Ball weight: 8.8oz/250g/530yds
Crochet hooks: 6.5mm/K
8mm/L
10mm/N

Scissors
Tapestry needle
Stitch markers

Stitches Used:
Ch: Chain
Sl st: Slip Stitch
Sc: single crochet

Hdc: Half Double Crochet
Dc: double crochet
Hdc2tog: Half double crochet 2 together (dec)
Dc2tog: Double crochet 2 together (dec)

Instructions:
With your 8mm hook make a slip knot and chain 49 (57)
Row 1: dc in the 4th ch from hook, dc in each ch across, turn your work. You will have 46 (54)dc in total
Row 2: Ch3, dc in each st across, turn your work. You will have 46 (54) dc in total.
Switch the 10mm hook
For size S-L
Row 3: ch1, *hdc in the next 3 st, 2hdc in next st* repeat from *to* across, turn your work. You will have
57st in total.
Row 4: ch1, hdc in each st across, turn your work.
Row 5: ch1, hdc in the next 4 st, 2hdc in next st* repeat from *to* across, turn your work. You will have
68 hdc in total.
Continue to Rows 6 below.
For XL-3X
Row 3: ch1, *hdc in the next 4 st, 2hdc in next st* repeat from *to* across, turn your work. You will have
64st in total.
Row 4: ch1, hdc in each st across, turn your work.
Row 5: ch1, *hdc in the next 4 st, 2hdc in next st* repeat from *to* across, turn your work. You will have
76st in total.
Continue to Row 6.

Row 6-40 (6-46): ch1, hdc in each st across, turn your work.

Front Panels
Row 41 (47): ch1, hdc in next 29 (33)st, turn your work.
Row 42-72 (48-86): ch1, hdc in each st across, turn your work.

Switch to the 8mm hook
Row 73 (85): ch1, hdc, *hdc2tog, hdc in next 2 st* repeat from *to* across, turn your work. You will
have 22 (24) hdc in total.
Row 74 (86): ch1, hdc in each st, turn your work.
Row 75 & 76 (87 & 88): ch3, dc in each st across, turn your work. At the end of Row 76 (88) Fasten off.

Second Front Panel
You will want to skip 10 (12)st from Row 40 from the first front panel, leaving the 10st for the neck, Join
your yarn in the 11th (13th) st to begin your second front panel.
You will then repeat Rows 41-76 (47-88).

Front Panel Border
With your 8mm hook you will join your yarn to the bottom of the first panel, you will be working in the
side of the rows.


Row 1: ch1, sc in the same sp, sc along the front panel, till you reach the neck, leaving the neck
untouched, turn your work.

Row 2-3: ch1, sc in each st across. Fasten off.
You will join your yarn the same way for the other front panel and repeat Rows 1-3, making sure you
pick up the same amount of stitches as you did the first panel. DO NOT fasten off your work at the end
of Row 3, you will now sc in each of the 10 (12) st, you will sl st with the last st of row 3 from the first
front panel, fasten off and you are done with your border.

The Sleeves:
You will place 2 stitch markers.

From the bottom of the front panel, count 24 (29) rows up, place first st marker.
From the bottom of the back panel, count 26 (29) rows up, place the next stitch marker. In between
those markers you will work your sleeves.
Row 1: With your 8mm hook and join your yarn through the stitch that has the first st marker in it, you
will want to hdc, up to the next st marker, picking up 44 (48) st in total. Turn your work.
Row 2: ch1, hdc in each st across, turn your work.
Switch to your 10mm hook
Row 3-16 (3-18): ch1, hdc in each st across, turn your work. 44 (48)st
Switch to the 6.5mm hook
Row 17 (19): ch1, hdc2tog, *hdc in next st, hdc2tog* repeat from *to* across your row, turn your work.
You will have 29 (32) Hdc in total.

Row 18 (20): ch1, *hdc in next st, hdc2tog* repeat from *to* across, turn your work. 20 (22) Hdc in
total.
Row 19 (21): ch3, *dc2tog, dc in next st* repeat from *to* across, turn your work. 13 (15) Dc in total.
Row 20 (22): ch3, dc2tog along the row. 7 (8) Dc in total. Fasten off
You will want to repeat the same steps and rows for the secondsleeve

Assemble Time
With may use your tapestry needle to sew your seams together, I chose to use my hook and slip stitch
the seam closed.

Folding your work in half, wrong side facing your, match your sleeves. With your yarn and 8mm hook
begin at the hand opening and slip stitch both seams together until you reach the underarm, you will
now match your side seams and sl st those seams together.
Repeat for the other side. Hide all loose tail and you are done.
Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 









All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Monday, September 17, 2018

Delicious Mobius Scarf/Headscarf


Delicious Mobius Scarf/Headscarf

By: Annoo Crochet Designs
Video Link: click here
Skill level: Beginner
Size: One Size fits Most Adult
You will need:
1 Skein of Loops and Thread Chameleon* (Worsted weight #4) Color: Blueberry
Fiber: 62% Acrylic, 38% Polyester
Ball weight: 7oz/200g/439yds
*Chameleon from Loops & Threads has been discontinued you can sub the same amount of yarn that is the same weight, Caron Cakes is one. Try Yarnsub.com for more substitution yarns.
page1image5867008
8mm/L crochet hook Scissors
Tapestry needle

Stitches Used:
Ch: chain
Dc: double crochet Sl St: Slip Stitch

Instructions:
If you need to make this smaller or larger just measure your starting chain around your shoulders if it fits snuggly then you can use this chain amount for your size.
With your hook and yarn make a slip knot and chain 80, join to the first chain you made making sure not to twist the chain.
Round 1: Ch3, dc in each ch around, do not join. 80dc with your work in front of you in a circle you will now take the side left side of your work (the side where the first dc is) and twist it down. See pics below.

Now you that your work has been folded down you will now work in the chains again for the other half of your round, Dc in each of the ch/dc around, you will sl st with the ch3 from the first half of round 1.
You will now have 160dc. Your work will look like it has 2 rows completed but really it is 1 continuous rounds. You will have a kink in your fabric, but that is normal for this design.

Round 2: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around until you reach the ch3, sl st with the ch3. You will have 160dc.
Rounds 3-15: Repeat Round 2, you can make less or more rounds until you reach your desired length. I wanted to make mine long enough to make a hood. Fasten off and hide all loose tails.
Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 









All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Wednesday, September 12, 2018

Kimono Vest Easy Tutorial

Kimono Vest Easy Tutorial


By Annoo Crochet Designs




page2image1657728page2image1657728page2image1657520

Video Link: click here


Skill level: Intermediate

Gauge: With 6mm/J hook working the Petit Pois stitch (see pattern below in Stitches Used) 10 stitches by 10 rows= 4 inches


Size: Small (Medium, Large, XLarge, 2x/3x)Measurements: Back panel before Border or Seamed
You will need:

4 (4, 5, 6, 8) skeins Loops & Threads Impeccable (Worsted Weight #4) Color: Forest
Fiber: 100% Acrylic
Ball weight: 277yds/4.5oz/127.5g 6mm/J, 6.5mm/K crochet hook
Scissors
Tapestry needle


Stitches Used:Sl st: slip stitch
Sc: single crochet Dc: double crochet Yo: yarn over
Dec: Decrease

Petit Pois stitch: insert hook in first st, yo and pull through st, insert hook in next st, yo and pull through, yo and pull through all 3 loops, *insert hook in the last st, yo pull through st, insert hook in next st, yo and pull through, yo and pull through all 3 loops,* repeat from *to * across your work for the Petit Pois stitch


Instructions:
BackWith your hook and 6mm hook make a slip knot and ch 53(60, 68, 73, 78)Row 1: in the 3rd ch from hook dc, dc in each ch along, Turn your work. 50 (57, 65, 70, 75) dc in total

Row 2: ch2, insert your hook in the first st, *yo and back, insert hook in next st, yo and back, 3 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops, insert hook in the last st you just finished* repeat from *to* across your work, making sure to make your last Petit Pois stitch in the ch2 from the previous row. Turn your wok. You will have 50 (57, 65, 70, 75) stitches in total.
Switch to 6.5mm hook and continue in patternRows 3-40 (3-43, 3-43, 3-50, 3-60): Repeat row 2
Row 41 (44, 44, 51, 60) : ch4, insert your hook in the 3rd ch from hook, *yo and back, insert hook in next st, yo and back, 3 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops, insert hook in the last st you just finished* repeat from *to* across your work, making sure to make your last Petit Pois stitch in the ch2 from the previous row. Turn your work. You will have 52 (59, 67, 72, 77) stitches in total.
Row 42 (45, 45, 52, 61): Repeat Row 41 (44, 44, 51, 60). You will have 54 (61, 69, 74, 79) stitches in total.
Row 43-44 (46-47, 46-47, 53-54, 62-63) : ch3, insert your hook in the 3rd ch from hook, *yo and back, insert hook in next st, yo and back, 3 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops, insert hook in the last st you just finished* repeat from *to* across your work, making sure to make your last Petit Pois stitch in the ch2 from the previous row. Turn your work. At the end of Row 44 (47, 47, 54, 63) you will have 56 (63, 71, 76, 81) stitches.
Row 45-46 (48-49, 48-49, 55-56, 64-65): Repeat Row 41 (44, 44, 51, 60), you will have 60 (67, 75, 80, 92) stitches at the end of row 46 (49, 49, 56, 65).
Row 47-48 (50-51, 50-51, 57-58, 66-67): ch9, insert your hook in the 3rd ch from hook, *yo and back, insert hook in next st, yo and back, 3 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops, insert hook in the last st you just finished* repeat from *to* across your work, making sure to make your last Petit Pois stitch in the ch2 from the previous row. Turn your work. At the end of row 48 (51, 51, 58, 67) you will have 74 (81, 89, 94, 99) stitches.
Rows 49-50 (52-65, 52-68, 59-75, 68-86): ch2, insert your hook in the first st, *yo and back, insert hook in next st, yo and back, 3 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops, insert hook in the last st you just finished* repeat from *to* across your work, making sure to make your last Petit Pois stitch in the ch2 from the previous row. Turn your wok. You will have 77 stitches in total.



Front Panel
Continuing at the sleeve you will work the first half of the front panel, you will work the second half later.

Row 51 (66, 69, 76, 87): ch2, insert your hook in the first st, *yo and back, insert hook in next st, yo and back, 3 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops, insert hook in the last st you just finished* repeat from *to* across 32 (35, 39, 41, 43) stitches of your work, Turn your work. You will have 32 (35, 39, 41, 43) stitches in total.
Row 52-64 (67-81, 70-87, 77-93, 88-107): ch2, insert your hook in the first st, *yo and back, insert hook in next st, yo and back, 3 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops, insert hook in the last st you just finished* repeat from *to* across your work, making sure to make your last Petit Pois stitch in the ch2 from the previous row. Turn your wok. You will have 32 (35, 39, 41, 43) stitches in total.
Row 65 (82, 88, 94, 108): (decrease row this row should begin at the edge of the sweater opening not the side seam/sleeve) ch2, insert your hook in the first st, *yo and back, insert hook in next st, yo and
back, 3 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops, insert hook in the last st you just finished* repeat from *to* across your work leaving the last 7 stitches untouched. Turn your wok. You will have 25 (28, 32, 34, 36) stitches in total.
Row 66 (83, 89, 95, 109): ch2, insert your hook in the first st, *yo and back, insert hook in next st, yo and back, 3 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops, insert hook in the last st you just finished* repeat from *to* across your work, making sure to make your last Petit Pois stitch in the ch2 from the previous row. Turn your wok. You will have 25 (28, 32, 34, 36) stitches in total.
Row 67 (84, 90, 96, 110): (dec row) ch2, insert your hook in the first st, *yo and back, insert hook in next st, yo and back, 3 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops, insert hook in the last st you just finished* repeat from *to* across your work leaving the last 2 stitch untouched. Turn your wok. You will have 23 (26, 30, 32, 34) stitches in total.
Row 68 (85, 91, 97, 111): Repeat Row 66 (83, 89, 95, 109), 26 stitches in total.
Row 69 (86, 92, 98, 112): (dec row) ch2, insert your hook in the first st, *yo and back, insert hook in next st, yo and back, 3 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops, insert hook in the last st you just finished* repeat from *to* across your work leaving the last 1 stitch untouched. Turn your wok. You will have 22 (25, 28, 31, 33) stitches in total
Row 70 (87, 93, 99, 113): Repeat Row 66 (83, 89, 95, 109). You will have 22 (25, 28, 31, 33) stitches in total.
Rows 71 (88, 94, 100, 114): Repeat Row 67 (84, 90, 96, 110) you will have 20 (23, 26, 29, 31)
Rows 72-111 (89-132, 95-138, 101-151, 115-175): ch2, insert your hook in the first st, *yo and back, insert hook in next st, yo and back, 3 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops, insert hook in the last st you just finished* repeat from *to* across your work, making sure to make your last Petit Pois stitch in the ch2 from the previous row. Turn your wok. You will have 20 (23, 26, 29, 31) stitches in total.
Switch to 6mm hookRow 112 (133, 139, 152, 176): ch2, dc in each st across, fasten off.
Second Front Panel
With your larger hook and yarn join in the 11th (12th, 12th, 13th, 14th) stitch from Row 50 (65, 68, 75, 86) counting from the edge of the first front panel, this is your neck opening.

Row 51 (66, 69, 76, 87): ch2, insert your hook in the first st, *yo and back, insert hook in next st, yo and back, 3 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops, insert hook in the last st you just finished* repeat from *to* across 32 (35, 39, 41, 43) stitches of your work, Turn your work. You will have 32 (35, 39, 41, 43) stitches in total.
Row 52-63 (67-80, 70-86, 77-92, 88-106): ch2, insert your hook in the first st, *yo and back, insert hook in next st, yo and back, 3 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops, insert hook in the last st you just finished* repeat from *to* across your work, making sure to make your last Petit Pois stitch in the ch2 from the previous row. Turn your wok. You will have 32 (35, 39, 41, 43) stitches in total.
Row 64 (81, 87, 93, 107): (decrease row this row should begin at the edge of the sweater opening not the side seam/sleeve) ch2, insert your hook in the first st, *yo and back, insert hook in next st, yo and back, 3 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops, insert hook in the last st you just finished* repeat from *to* across your work leaving the last 7 stitches untouched. Turn your wok. You will have 25 (28, 32, 34, 36) stitches in total.
Row 65 (82, 88, 94, 108): ch2, insert your hook in the first st, *yo and back, insert hook in next st, yo and back, 3 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops, insert hook in the last st you just finished* repeat from *to* across your work, making sure to make your last Petit Pois stitch in the ch2 from the previous row. Turn your wok. You will have 25 (28, 32, 34, 36) stitches in total.
Row 66 (83, 89, 95, 109): (dec row) ch2, insert your hook in the first st, *yo and back, insert hook in next st, yo and back, 3 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops, insert hook in the last st you just finished* repeat from *to* across your work leaving the last 2 stitch untouched. Turn your wok. You will have 23 (26, 30, 32, 34) stitches in total.
Row 67 (84, 90, 96, 110): Repeat Row 66 (83, 89, 95, 109), 26 stitches in total.
Row 68 (85, 91, 97, 111): (dec row) ch2, insert your hook in the first st, *yo and back, insert hook in next st, yo and back, 3 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops, insert hook in the last st you just
Count 10 (11, 11, 12, 13) stitches from the right.
finished* repeat from *to* across your work leaving the last 1 stitch untouched. Turn your wok. You will have 22 (25, 28, 31, 33) stitches in total
Row 69 (86, 92, 98, 112): Repeat Row 66 (83, 89, 95, 109). You will have 22 (25, 28, 31, 33) stitches in total.
Rows 70 (87, 93, 99, 113): Repeat Row 67 (84, 90, 96, 110) you will have 20 (23, 26, 29, 31)
Rows 71-111 (88-132, 94-138, 100-151, 114-175): ch2, insert your hook in the first st, *yo and back, insert hook in next st, yo and back, 3 loops on hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops, insert hook in the last st you just finished* repeat from *to* across your work, making sure to make your last Petit Pois stitch in the ch2 from the previous row. Turn your wok. You will have 20 (23, 26, 29, 31) stitches in total.
Switch to 6mm hookRow 112 (133, 139, 152, 176): ch2, dc in each st across, fasten off.
Assemble
Placing your work so the wrong sides are facing you, fold your Kimono in half and align the sleeves and sides together, you can place pins to hold everything in place or you can free style it as you go.
Starting at the Bottom edge join your yarn and you will slip stitch each side together until you reach the increase/decrease of the sleeve. You will not be joining the sleeves seams together just yet. You will turn your work back right side facing you and you will continue below,
Ch2, going up the side of your sleeve, dc in each of the st along your sleeve picking up 21 st until you reach the top corner or sleeve edge, picking up 1 dc per row along the sleeve edge/opening, once you reach the next corner you will pick up 21 st along the seam of your sleeve, join with the first ch2, turning your work to the wrong side again,
You will now join the sleeve seam together, with your hook sl st the 21 st together, fasten off your work and repeat for the other sleeve and seam.
Border:
With your 6mm hook and yarn join your yarn to the bottom edge of the front panel
Row 1: ch2, pick up 1 dc along the edge for each row until you reach the back, you will not join to it now, stop and turn your work.
Row 2-4 (2-4, 2-4, 2-5, 2-6): ch2, dc in each st across, turn your work. Fasten off You will repeat this for the other side of your opening.Assemble Border to neck edge:


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Putting your work wrong side together and with your tapestry needle you will join the border rows to the 10 (11, 11, 12, 13) stitches from the backs neck edge.

Now hide any loose tails you have and you are done my Friends!
Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 










All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Wednesday, August 8, 2018

Colorado Crochet Maxi Skirt


page5image2945072page5image2945296Colorado Crochet Maxi Skirt
By: Annoo Crochet Designs



Video Link: click here
Skill level: Intermediate
Gauge: 18 dc x 8 rows= 4 inches
Size: S/M, M/ L, XL
You will need:
For Sizes S/M & M/L:
1 skein (500g) Wolltraum My Melody (4ply #1-2 yarn)

Color: Café Oriental (Brick, Cognac, Mocha are the 3 colors in this skein) Fiber: 50% Cotton, 50% Acrylic
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Ball weight: 500g/17.60oz/2077yds For Size XL:
1 skein (500g) Wolltraum My Melody (4ply #1-2 yarn)
Color: Café Oriental (Brick, Cognac, Mocha are the 3 colors in this skein) Fiber: 50% Cotton, 50% Acrylic
Ball weight: 500g/17.60oz/2077yds

1 skein (200g) Wolltraum UniColor (4ply #1-2 yarn) Color: Brick
Fiber: 50% Cotton, 50% Acrylic
Ball weight: 500g/7oz/830yds Crochet Hook 3.25mm/D
Tapestry Needle Scissors
Stitch Markers

*Note if you choose to make the XL size in a different colorway you will want to choose your UniColor to match your My Melody color. My Melody is made up of 3 colorways, you will want to pick the color way that will be at the bottom of your skirt, in my case it was the Brick color in the Café Oriental Skein so the XLarge size will use a skein of the Unicolor in Brick.
Stitches Used:
Ch: Chain
Sl st: slip stitch
Sc: Single Crochet Dc: Double Crochet

Instructions:
This pattern is written for Sizes S-XL, if you need your size to be larger no worries, just remember you will need more yarn for larger sizes. You will need a multiple of 8 for the band, (IE; for the small 8 x 18=144 chains/dc) once you achieve the amount of chains you will need you will work the band rounds the same as instructed below, just add a few more rounds to yours if you feel its not long enough. After you get your band done you will work the pattern as instructed until you reach the length you desire.
With your yarn and hook make a chain of 144 (160, 176) join with the first ch to make a circle, making sure not to twist the chain.
The Band:
Round 1: 
ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each ch around, sl st with the top of the ch3. You will have 144
(160, 176) dc
Round 2-4: Ch1 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around, sl st with the top of the ch3. You will have 144 (160, 176) dc
If you feel you need less or more rows for your band then keep working till you reach the desired width.



The Pattern of the Skirt: For all sizes:
Round 5: Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc, ch1, 2dc in the same st as the ch3, *ch3, sk 3st, in next st make (2dc, ch2, 2dc)* repeat from *to* around ending with a ch3, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Round 6-21: sl st to the ch1 sp, ch3 (counts as first dc), dc, ch1, 2dc in the same st as the ch3, *ch3, sk 3st, in next st make (2dc, ch2, 2dc)* repeat from *to* around ending with a ch3, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Now you will work on the part of the pattern to make it flare out and begin the Flower (pineapple stitch)

Round 22: sl st your way to the first ch1 sp, ch3 (counts as first dc), 6 more dc in same sp, total of 7dc, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc),* ch3, in next ch1 sp make 7dc, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc * repeat from *to* around, ch3, sl st with the top of the ch3 (first dc)
Round 23: ch4 (counts as first dc, ch1), (dc in next st, ch1) 5 times, dc in last st, ch3, in the next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc) *ch3, sk to the 7dc, in the first dc make dc, ch1, (dc in next st, ch1) 5 times, dc in last st, ch3, in the next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc)* repeat from *to* around, ch3. You will not join, from now on out you will work in the round without joining. Here is where you will need your stitch marker.
Round 24: in between the first dc and ch1 make a sc (place your stitch marker on the sc to mark the beginning of the round), [ch3, sc in next ch1 sp] 5 times, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch3 *in between the first dc and ch1 make a [ch3, sc in next ch1 sp] 5 times, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch3* repeat from *to* around Ending your round with a 2dc, ch1, 2dc. Instead of ending this round with a ch3, you will begin your next round with it.
Remember to bring up your stitch marker as you work a new round.
Round 25: * ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 sp) 4 times, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc) * repeat from *to* around
Round 26: *ch3, sc in the first ch3, (ch3, sc in next ch3 sp) 3 times, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc, ch1, 2dc) * repeat from *to* around
Round 27: *ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 sp) 2 times, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch3 in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc)* repeat from *to* around
Round 28: *ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, ch3, sc in next ch3 sp, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch2, in ch3 sp make (dc, ch1, dc), ch2, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc)* repeat from *to* around
Round 29: *ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch2, in next ch 1 sp make 7dc, ch2, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc) * repeat from *to* around

Round 30: *ch1, sk the sc, in the ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc) ch2, sk to the 7dc, in the first dc make dc, ch1, (dc in next st, ch1) 5 times, dc in last st, ch2, in the next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc)* repeat from *to* around until you get to the last 7dc, you will work dc, ch1 6 times and make a dc in last dc of the ch7, you will end your round here.
Round 31: *ch3, in the ch1 sp make 2dc, ch3, in next ch1 sp make 2dc, ch3, sc in the first ch1 sp after the dc (ch3, sc in next ch 1 sp) 5 times* repeat from *to* around
Round 32: *ch3, sk to the ch3 between the 2 dc, in that ch3 make (2dc, ch1, 2dc, ch1, 2dc),
ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 sp) 4 times,* repeat from *to* around

Round 33: *ch3, in first ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 sp) 3 times* repeat from *to* around
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Round 34: *ch3, in first ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch2, in the ch3 from previous round make dc, ch1, dc, ch2, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 sp) 2 times* repeat from *to* around
Round 35: *ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc) ch2, sk to next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc) ch2, sk to next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, ch3, sc in next ch3 sp* repeat from *to* around
Round 36: *ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch2, in next ch1 sp make 7dc, ch2, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc* repeat from *to* around.
Round 37: *ch2, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch2, sk to the first of the 7dc make a dc, ch1, (dc, ch1) 5 times, dc in the last dc, ch2, in the next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch1, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc)* repeat from *to* around
Round 38: *ch3, sc in the first ch1 sp after the dc (ch3, sc in next ch 1 sp) 5 times, ch3, in the ch1 sp make 2dc, ch3, in next ch1 sp make 2dc* repeat from *to* around
Round 39*ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 sp) 4 times, ch3, sk to the ch3 between the 2 dc, in that ch3 make (2dc, ch1, 2dc, ch1, 2dc) ,* repeat from *to* around

Round 40: * ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 sp) 3 times, ch3, in first ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), * repeat from *to* around
Round 41: *ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 sp) 2 times, ch3, in first ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch2, in the ch3 from previous round make dc, ch1, dc, ch2, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), * repeat from *to* around
Round 42: *ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, ch3, sc in next ch3 sp, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc) ch2, sk to next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc) ch2, sk to next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), * repeat from *to* around
Round 43: * ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch2, in next ch1 sp make 7dc, ch2, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), * repeat from *to* around.
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Repeat Rounds 30-43 until you reach the length you desire. If you choose to leave it as is you will sl st to the next st and fasten off.
Or
Add a border like I did for mine to give it the points of the Flower (Pineapple stitch). If you choose to make yours using the same border as I did you will need to end your work on Round 39 this should be a few inches shorter than your desired length.
Once you’ve reached the end of Round 39 you will Fasten off.
Border Rounds:
With your hook join your yarn to the second of the ch1 spaces of the 2dc, ch1, 2dc, ch1, 2dc clusters right before the Flower (Pineapple stitch),

Row 1: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc, ch1, 2dc in the same sp, ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 sp) 3 times, ch3, in first ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), Turn your work.
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Row 2: sl st to the ch1 sp, after the sc from previous ch1, 2dc), turn your work.
Row 3: sl st to the ch1 sp, after the sc from previous turn your work.
Row 4: sl st to the ch1 sp, after the sc from previous
ch3 (counts as first dc) dc, ch1, 2dc in the same sp, ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp row make a sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 sp) 2 times, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc,
page5image2945072page5image2945296ch3 (counts as first dc) dc, ch1, 2dc in the same sp, ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp row make a sc, ch3, sc in next ch3 sp, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc),
ch3 (counts as first dc) dc, ch1, 2dc in the same sp, ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp row make a sc, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), turn your work.
Row 5: sl st to the ch1 sp, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) Turn your work
ch3 (counts as first dc), dc ch1, 2dc in same sp, ch1, sk to the next ch1, make
Row 6: sl st the the first ch1 sp, ch3 (counts as first dc) dc in same sp, ch1, in the next ch1 sp make 2dc, fasten off.
You will repeat Rows 1-6 for each Flower (Pineapple stitch), joining your yarn to the free ch1 sp at the of the 2dc, ch1, 2dc, ch1, 2dc cluster.
Once you are done you will hide all loose tails and that is it my Friends you are done with this Gorgeous Colorado Crochet Maxi Skirt!!!


Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 









All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo



Crochet Jumpsuit inspired by Olivia Palermo

Crochet Jumpsuit inspired by Olivia Palermo
By: Annoo Crochet Designs



Video Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CteX8Pju64I
Skill level: Intermediate/ExpertGauge: Granny square 3 1⁄4 inches*I tend to crochet loosely you may need to go up in hook size to get your gauge
page1image1663552
Size: S/M (M/L, L/XL)
You will need:
Yarn Art Summer (Fine-sport weight #2)
8 (9, 10) Skeins Main Color (MC): 53 Dark Blue
1 (2, 2) skein Contrasting Color A (CCA): 50 Powder Blue 1 (2, 2) skein Contrasting Color B (CCB): 22 Cream Fiber: 70% Cotton, 30% Viscose
Ball weight: 350m/382yds

Crochet hook 2.75mm /C Tapestry needle
Scissors
Stitch Marker

Zipper approximately 16 inches long or 9-10 Buttons for the back closure
Stitches Used:
Sl st: slip stitch
Sc: single crochet Dc: double crochet Ch: chain

Instructions:
With your MC yarn make a magic circle,
Round 1: ch3 (counts as first dc), 2dc in magic circle, ch1, (3dc, ch1 in magic circle) 3 times, sl st with the top of the ch3 you made. You will have 4 groups of 3 dc separated by a ch1. Pull the end yarn of your magic circle to tighten the hole and secure it closed.
You will now join your next color yarn but do not fasten off your MC.
Round 2: with your CCB yarn join to the MC, ch3 (counts as first dc), make 2dc, ch1, 3dc in the same sp, (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in the next ch sp 3 times, sl st with the top of the ch3, fasten off the CCB yarn.
Round 3: with your CCA yarn join to any of spaces between the corners,

Ch3 (counts as first dc) 2dc in same sp, in the next ch1 sp of the corner make (3dc, ch1, 3dc), *in the next sp between the corner make 3dc, in the ch 1 sp of the corner make (3dc, ch1, 3dc)* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the top of the ch3, fasten off your yarn.

Round 4: With your MC carry it up (remember you didnt fasten it off after round 1), join it in the first sp after the corner, ch3, 2dc in the same, skip 3dc, in the sp make 3dc, in the corner ch 1 sp make (3dc, ch1, 3dc), * (skip 3dc, in the sp make 3dc) 2 times, in the corner ch 1 sp make (3dc, ch1, 3dc),* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the top of the ch3. Fasten off your yarn.
Hide all loose tails, Make 66 (90, 105) grannies
Assemble the Grannies
You will want to either sl st your work together or use a tapestry needle and sew them together. You will join them wrong side facing you. Using your MC yarn for the joining of the squares.
For the front:

You will join 30 (42, 49) grannies in a 5x6 (7x6, 7x7) block, 5 (6,7) grannies for the horizontal and 6 (6, 7) for the vertical, a total of 30 (42, 49) grannies will be attached for the front.
For the Back:

You will join 15 (20, 24) grannies in a 3x5 (4x5, 4x6) block, 3 (4, 4) for the horizontal and 5 (5, 6) for the vertical. Repeat again for the second back piece.
After you complete the 3x5 (4x5, 4x6) blocks you will take the remaining 6 (8, 8) grannies and join them together making a row of 1x6 (1x8, 1x8).
You will now join that 1x6 (1x8, 1x8) row to the 3x5 (4x5, 4x6) blocks, take your first back panel and line the 3 (4, 4) from the 3x5 (4x5, 4x6) block with 3 (4, 4) of the 1x6, (1x8, 1x8) assemble them together then add the second back panel the same way. You will be leaving an opening of 5 (5, 6) grannies for the zipper that you will add later.
Shoulder and Neck edge
Waist Edge
Shoulder Seam:
Lay your front so right side is facing you and the 5 (7, 7) squares are horizontal and the 6 (6, 7) are vertical, you will now take the back piece and lay it on top, Dont worry that there is a difference in size from the front piece and the back piece you will line the shoulder edges
Starting at the right edge of your work line the 2 pieces up at the shoulder so they match, you will join your yarn and assemble the front and back shoulder together, working across 1 1⁄2 ( 2, 2) grannies, fasten off. Repeat for the other side of your shoulder seam.


Side seam and Armhole:
With your wrong sides facing you still you will now join your side seams together. Place your work so the bottom is now at the top, you will now line the sides up and work 3 ( 3, 3 1⁄2 ) grannies up to join the side seam together. Repeat for the other side. Hide all your loose tails

Bottom edge
Shoulder and Neck edge
The Waist
For all Sizes:
Join your MC yarn to a corner of one of the Grannies.
Round 1: ch3 (counts as first dc) dc 2 more times in the same sp,* (sk to the next sp between 3 dc and make 3dc) 3 times, work 3 dc in the corner of the granny, skip to the next granny and make 3dc in the corner of that next granny* repeat from *to* around till you reach the ch3, sl st with the top.
Round 2: ch3 (counts as first dc), 2dc in the same sp, *3dc in the space between the next 3dc from previous round* repeat from *to* around till you reach the ch3, sl st with the top.
Round 3: Repeat round 2 Join your CCB yarnRounds 4-6: Repeat Round 2. Join your CCA yarn
Rounds 7-9: Repeat Round 2.
Join with your MC yarn
Rounds 10-18 (10-22, 10-26): Repeat Round 2.
For all sizes: Remember to try on your work before starting the legs you may need more or less rounds depending on your body type.
Fasten off.
Crotch and Legs:
You will now place your work in front of you so the front is facing you. You are going to find the center of the waist you just worked on by finding the center of the top and following it down to the last row you did, place a st marker in that st, repeating the same process on the back but using the front st marker and join the front and back together. You should have the same amount of stitches on either side of your marker. If you dont then just readjust until you do.

Round 1: Now Joining again with your MC yarn, pick you the stitch from the left side of the stitch marker and ch3, 2dc in the same st, 3dc in the space between the 3dc from previous round until you reach the stitch marker, making sure to make 3dc in that stitch marker, you will now sl st with the ch3.
Round 2-30 (2-32, 2-34): ch3, 2dc in the same sp, 3dc in between the 3dc from previous round, repeat that around your work until you reach the ch3, sl st with it.
Once you reach this point it is best to try it on again you will want your leg now to sit just below your knee before you begin the flare. If it isnt and you need to add more rows do so now but take note on how many extra rows you do for when you do the other leg it well be even.
The Flare:

Lay your work in front of you, you will want to mark the side seams with a stitch marker. This will be where you make your increases. Make sure that you have the same amount of stitches in the front as you do the back when you place your markers.
Continue with your work as follows:
Round 1: ch3, 2dc in the same st, 3dc in the space between the 3dc from previous round, repeat that until you reach the first stitch marker, you will make 6 dc in that place, continue working 3dc in the space between the 3dc from previous round until you reach the 2nd stitch marker, in that space make 6dc, work 3dc in the space between the 3dc from previous round until you reach the ch3, sl st with it.
page5image2945072page5image2945296Round 2: ch3, 2dc in the same sp, *3dc in the space between the 3dc from previous round until you reach the 6dc, count 3dc make 3dc in between the 3rd and 4th st, (bring up the stitch marker as you go to keep the flare symmetrical) * repeat from *to* then work 3dc as before until you reach the ch3, sl st with it.
Round 3-6: Ch3, 2dc in same sp, 3dc in the space between the 3dc from previous round, repeat that all around, sl st with the ch3.
Round 7: Repeat Round 1Rounds 8-13: Repeat rounds 2-6Round 14: Repeat Round 1.Rounds 15-21: Repeat Rounds 2-6Round 22: Repeat Round 1Round 23-30: Repeat Rounds 2-6
You will again want to try on your work, you may need to add more even Rounds or less depending on your body type. Again if you add more rounds make sure to take note how many extra you did for the other leg.
Fasten off and repeat for the other leg.
The Closure:
Once you are done with the Jumpsuit, hide all your loose tails. You will now add your Zipper or Buttons.
Add your zipper now, this is where you will need some sewing skills if you want you can choose to opt out of the zipper and add buttons. If you choose to add buttons, continue to work the Armhole Border and then skip to the bottom for the Neck edge and Button hole border.
Picot Border:
You will work this border around the armhole openings and neck opening.
Armhole Border:
Starting with one of the armhole openings, join your MC yarn to the underarm seam.
Round 1: ch1, sc in the same st, sc in next 2st, ch3 and sl st with the base of the ch3, *sc in next 3st, ch3 sl st at the base of the ch* repeat from *to* around until you reach the first sc, sl st with it and fasten off your work.
Repeat that for the other armhole opening.
Neck edge Border with Zipper:
Join your MC yarn to the back corner of the neck edge,
Row 1: ch1 sc in the same sp, sc in next 2st, ch3 and sl st with the base of the ch, *sc in next 3st, ch3, sl st at the base of the ch* repeat from *to* until you reach the corner of the back edge, sl st in the same sp as last sc and fasten off.
Hide all loose tails and you are done!
page5image2945072page5image2945296Neck edge Border with Buttons:
Join your MC yarn at the opening of the left side opening of the back,
Row 1: ch1, sc in the same sp, sc in next 2st, ch3, sl st with the base of the ch, *sc in next 3st, ch3, sl st at the base of the ch* repeat from *to* up the back opening, along the neck edge to the back corner opening. Stop and but your work aside, you will now want to sew your buttons on.
You will start at the bottom of the opening on the left side, you will sew 9-10 buttons evenly spaced along the opening, sew them in about 1⁄2” from the edge.
You will want to mark the right side of your opening with stitch markers where the button lines up with that side, then you will work your picot edging as you had for the pattern except when you reach a stitch marker you will want to make a chain large enough to slip your button through, sl st it to the base of the ch and continue in the picot edging until the next stitch marker, repeating the button hole again, continuing with that pattern, making button holes and picot st until you reach the bottom of the back opening, sl st with the first sc you made and fasten off your work, hide all loose tails and you are done!

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 









All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo