Sunday, September 17, 2017

Fall Boho Crochet Poncho 201

Fall Boho Crochet Poncho 2017
By: Annoo Crochet Designs


Video Link: Click Here
Size: One size fits most, squares can be made smaller or larger for your size.
Finished granny size: Measures about 17 inches
You will need:
6 skeins of Rico’s Creative Melange (dk/light worsted weight yarn) Color: Pastel Mix 001
Fiber Content: 53% Virgin Wool/47% Acrylic
Weight: 1.75oz/98yds
 Crochet hook 3.5mm
Scissors 
Tapestry needle
 Stitch Marker
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Stitches used:
Ch: chain
Sc: single crochet
Hdc: half double crochet Dc: double crochet
Sl st: Slip Stitch



Instructions:
Make 4
With your hook and yarn make a magic circle
Round 1: ch3, in the magic circle make another dc omitting the last step, you will have 2 loops on your crochet hook, repeat that again making another dc in the magic circle omitting the last step, you will now have 3 loops on your hook, yo and through all the loops on your hook, You just made your first Petal, *ch5, make dc in the magic circle omitting the last step 3 times, you will have 4 loops on your hook, yo and pull through all loops, ch2, in the magic circle again make a dc omitting the last step 3 times, you will have 4 loops on your hook, yo and pull through all loops,* repeat from *to* twice more, finish your round by making ch5, in the magic circle dc omitting the last step 3 times you will have 4 loops on your hook, yo and pull through all loops, ch2, sl st with the top of the first Petal you made.
You will now want to tighten your magic circle by pulling the end yarn closed. You will have 4 groups for the center of your granny made up of 1 petal, ch2, 1 petal, ch5
Round 2: sl st your way to the ch5 space, ch3, make dc omitting the last step 2 times in the ch5 space, yo and pull through the loops, ch2, in the ch5 space dc omitting the last steps 3 times, yo and pull through all the loops (your first corner made) *ch2, in the ch2 sp from the previous round you will make 3dc, ch2, in the next ch5 space make dc omitting the last step 3times, yo and pull through all the loops, ch2, in the same ch5 space make dc omitting the last steps 3 times, yo and pull through all the loops, * repeat from *to* around ending the round with ch2, in the ch2 sp from the previous round you will make 3dc, ch2, sl st at the top of the first corner petal you made.
Round 3: sl st your way to the ch2, ch3, make dc omitting the last step 2 times in the ch2 space, yo and pull through the loops, ch2, in the same ch2 space dc omitting the last steps 3 times, yo and pull through all the loops *ch2, in the ch2 sp from the previous round you will make 2dc, dc in top of each dc across, 2dc in the next ch2, ch2, in the next ch2 between the petals make dc omitting the last step 3times, yo and pull through all the loops, ch2, in the same space make dc omitting the last steps 3 times, yo and pull through all the loops, * repeat from *to* around ending the round with ch2, in the ch2 sp from the previous round you will make 2dc, dc in each dc across, in the next ch2 sp make 2dc, ch2, sl st at the top of the first corner petal you made.
Round 4-18: Repeat Round 3
In between each corner petal you will increase your dc count by 4dc for each side, (2 after a corner and 2 right before a corner in the ch2 spaces)
Round 3: 7dc in between corners. Round 4: 11dc in between corners Round 5: 15dc in between corners Round 6: 19 dc in between corners Round 7: 23dc in between corners Round 8: 27 dc in between corners Round 9: 31 dc in between corners Round 10: 35 dc in between corners Round 11: 39 dc in between corners Round 12: 43 dc in between corners Round 13: 47 dc in between corners Round 14: 51 dc in between corners Round 15: 55 dc in between corners Round 16: 59 dc in between corners Round 17: 63 dc in between corners Round 18: 67 dc in between corners
Your finished granny will be approximately 17 inches. You can make your granny smaller or larger by making less or more rounds but remember by doing so the opening of your neck will be smaller or larger. After you assemble the 4 grannies I will show you how I made mine smaller. Hide all loose tails to the wrong side of your squares.
The Assembly
You will lay 3 of your squares out like so (see pic above)
1

1
2

You will assemble 1 with 2 and 1 with 3, starting with 1 and 2 place them right sides together.

With your yarn and hook you will now join the squares together, making sure they are right sides together, starting at the ch2 in between the corner petals, picking up the back loop in the granny that is closest to you and picking up the loop that is furthest on the other granny, you will want to match st for st as you assembly these 2 squares. Remember not to make your slip stitches too tight and not too loose. Once you have assembled 1 and 2 now it is time to repeat the same for 1 and 3, putting right sides together and sl st together. Making sure that when you are done your work will be joined and lay out like the pic above.
Now it is time to turn these 3 squares into your poncho by adding the 4th. Keeping your work wrong side facing you, you will take and fold in half grannies 2 and 3 (see pic)
32

You will sl st the same as you did for the other squares assembling 3 with 4 and 2 with 4. Making sure wrong sides are facing you, join them the same way you sl st the first 3.
3
4


3
2

Now that your poncho is assembled you will hide all loose tails in the wrong side of your work and turn it right side facing you.
You will now work on the neck opening to make it smaller, if you like the size it is leave it and you are done, but if you want to decrease the opening continue below.
Neck Opening:
Round 1: With the right sides facing you, with your hook and yarn join with a slip stich to any of the dc of the neck opening, ch1, sc in the same st, sc in each and every dc that presents itself to you, until you reach the ch2 space, you will make 1 sc in it and sc in the petal of the corner, in the next 2 st you will decrease them, sc2tog, you will now sc along in each dc until you reach the next ch2sp, repeat making a sc in in the ch2 sp, sc in the petal and in the next 2 st sc2tog, sc in each st until you reach the ch1 you made (do not sl st you will work in rounds.
Round 2: make a hdc in the next st, place a st marker on the hdc to mark the beginning of your round, hdc in each st until you reach the v part of your collar, you will again decrease 2 st hdc2tog, hdc until you reach the next V part of the collar and hdc2tog again, hdc until you get to your st marker.
Repeat round 2 for as many rounds as you like I did mine until I had 5 rounds of hdc, sl st with the next st and fasten off, hide all loose tails in the back of your work and you are all done my friends. You just created a beautiful light weight Boho Poncho! 

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 








All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Easy Crochet Sunshine/Mandala Style Handbag

Easy Crochet Sunshine/Mandala Style Handbag
By: Annoo Crochet Designs



Video Link: Click here

You will need:
Berroco Comfort (worsted weight yarn) 1 skein each color
Weight: 3.5oz/100g/210yds
Yarn Color: Pearl (color 1)
Barley (color 2)
Golden Rod (color 3)
Fiber Content: 50% Superfine Acrylic, 50% Superfine Nylon
4mm crochet hook
Scissors
Tapestry needle
Handles (I used wood rectangle handles, you can find these online at Etsy or check your local craft store)
If you are lining your bag you will need some fabric along with the notions you will need to make your
lining, matching thread, pins etc..
Stitches Used:
Sc: Single Crochet
Dc: Double Crochet
Tr: Treble Crochet
Ch: Chain

Instructions:
The Body of your bag:
You will make 2, but won’t fasten off on the second one.
With your Pearl yarn and crochet hook make a magic circle,

Round 1: ch3 (counts as 1st dc), in the magic circle make 23 dc, sl st with the ch3. You will have a total of
24dc.
Join your Barley yarn, Do Not Fasten off your Pearl yarn you will be carrying up the colors as you go.
Round 2: ch4 (counts as dc and ch1), *in the next st make a dc, ch1* repeat form *to* until you reach
the ch4, you will sl st in the 3rd ch. You will have a total of 24dc separated by a sc.
Join your Golden Rod yarn, again Do Not fasten off the Barley yarn, you will carry up as you go.
Round 3: ch3 (counts as first dc), make 2dc in the same st as the ch3, *sk the ch sp and on top of the dc
make a sc, sk the next ch sp on top of the next dc make 3 dc* repeat from *to* around, you will sl st at
the top of the ch3, sl st until you are in the second dc of the first set of clusters you made. You will have
12-3dc clusters and 12-sc
Round 4: (Carry up the Pearl yarn) ch1, sc in the same st, *in the sc from the previous round make 5dc,
sk 1dc, in the second make a sc* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the ch1.
Round 5: (carry up the Barley yarn) ch3 (counts as dc), in the same st make 4dc, *sk 2dc from previous
round, sc in the next, in the sc from previous round make 5dc* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the
ch3.
Round 6: (carry up the Golden rod yarn) ch3 (counts as dc), in the same st make 6dc, *sk 2 dc, on top of
the 3rd one make a sc, in the sc from previous round make 7dc*, repeat from *to* around, sl st with the
top of the ch3, sl st your way to the middle dc to begin your 7th round.
Round 7: (carry up the Pearl yarn) ch1, sc in the same sp, *in the sc from previous round make 7dc, sk
3dc, sc in the next* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the sc.
Round 8: (carry up the Barley yarn) ch4 (counts as treble) make 6 more tr in the same st,* sk 3dc, sc in
the next, in the sc from previous round make 7tr* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the top of the ch4,
sl st your way till you reach the 4th tr.
Round 9: (carry up Golden Rod yarn) ch1, sc in the same st, *in the sc from previous round make 9 tr, sk
3tr from previous round, make sc in the 4th*, repeat from *to* around, sl st with the sc.
Round 10: (carry up Pearl yarn) ch4, make 8tr in the same st, *sk 4 tr, sc in the next, in the sc from
previous round make 9tr*, repeat from *to* around, sl st with the ch4, sl st your way to the 5th tr and
begin Round 11.
Round 11: (carry up the Barley yarn) ch1, sc in the same st, *in the sc from previous round make 11tr, sk
4tr, sc in the next* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the sc. Fasten off and hide all loose tails.
You could make your bag larger if you want by making more rounds, you may need to increase the
Trebles in between the sc by 2 as you go to keep the bag from curling.
You will now make a second one but DO NOT fasten off at the end of Round 11, continue below.
Creating the Sides of your Bag:

Row 1: Still with the Barley color, ch3 (counts as dc) working in the back loops only dc in each st until
you have 3 clusters of 11tr left, you will not work the sc that is in between your round and the free
clusters. Turn your work.
Row 2: ch3 (counts as dc) dc in each st working in both loops now until you reach the end of your row.
DO NOT fasten off, it is now time to assemble.
The Assembly:
Take the 2 panels and place them right sides together so the wrong side is facing you. You will be slip
stitching your panels together, you will want to line up the first panel so the cluster match and you will
begin in the sc right before the 11 tr cluster in that panel matching it to the second panel.
You will now sl st the 2 together by picking up the back loop on the panel closest to you and pick up the
loop on the back panel that is furthest from you, you will do this until you have reached the end of the
side of your bag. Fasten off and hide loose tails.

Line your Bag:
You will want to line your bag now. This is important, with the nature of crochet it can be stretchy so
once you begin to fill your bag it may stretch and you can lose little items as well. I do not know how to
sew too well and I am lucky to have my Mother in law to help me line my bags.
If you have trouble lining your bag another alternative is to use makeup bags and fill your little things in
them and pop that in your hand bag, just remember the heavier the items the more your bag will
stretch.

Adding the Handles:
Refer to the video at the 35 minute mark. You will sc your handle to your bag.
You will take the bag and have the wrong side facing you, with the Barley yarn and your hook join your
yarn at the sc right before the first 11tr cluster, ch1, Grab your handle now, pass your crochet hook
through the same st and under your handle yo, pass the yarn under the handle and through the st, yo
and pass the yarn through the 2 loops on your hook, you will want to make sure your tension is not too
tight or too loose, when you are done you will want to be able to slide the stitches on the handle as you
go. Continue to sc your handle and bag together until you reach the st before the side of your bag, sl st
in it and fasten off.
You will repeat this for the other handle, hide all loose tails and you are done.
Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 








All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Thursday, August 31, 2017

Boho Ombre Long Vest Easy Tutorial

Boho Ombre Long Vest Easy Tutorial

By: Annoo Crochet Designs


Video Links:

For the Vest :click here

For the Hood: click here

Size: This pattern is for a Small/Medium it would be perfect for anyone 5ft 3” as it sits just at the ankles.
In the pattern there are some hints to help with taller sizes as well as larger sizes.

You will need: 2 skeins of Katia Summer Rainbow
(Fingering Weight yarn) Weight: 150g/600m
 Yarn Color: 57 Fiber
Content: 50%Cotton/50% Acrylic
2.75mm Crochet hook
Scissors
Tapestry needle
Stitches Used: Ch: chains
Sc: Single crochet
HDC: half double crochet
Dc: double crochet
Gauge: 3 groups(flower, dc cluster, flower) is approximately 5 inches
6 rows is approximately 2 ½ inches
Note: If you are using an ombre yarn for your vest you will want to keep the ombre effect even. Once you are done with your back you will find the same spot in the second skein of yarn and begin the front panels. Please watch the Tutorial for more help.

Instructions: This pattern is in a multiple of 20+15. 20 chains make up the dc clusters and the flower, the extra 15 makes up one more set of clusters including the extra dc on each end.

Smaller/Larger sizes: If you want to make a smaller/larger size you will want to make a chain that fits around the widest part of your hips or chest, make sure the chain is 2 things, a multiple of 20+15 and that it is not too loose or too snug.
Once you have your new chain count begin at Row 1 and continue in pattern.

For shorter or longer lengths skip down to the end of Row 72 for more info.

With your yarn and hook make a slip knot and chain 255.

 Row 1: in the 4th chain from your hook make 1dc, *dc in the next ch, ch2, dc in the next 2 chains, sk 2 chain, make 1 dc in the next 2 chains, ch2, dc in the next 2ch, ch4, sk 5chains, in the 6th chain dc, ch4, skip 5ch, make 1dc in the 6th ch* repeat from *to* across, make 1dc in the next chain, ch2, 1dc in the next 2chains, sk 2 chains, in the 3rd chain make dc, dc in next ch, ch2, dc in the last 3ch and turn your work.

Row 2: ch3(counts as 1st dc) *in the ch2 space from previous row make 2dc, ch2, 2dc, repeat in the next chain 2 space, ch3, count 3ch and hdc in it, ch3, pass the dc from the previous row and skip one chain, hdc in the next ch, ch3* Repeat from *to* across, in the ch2 space from previous row make 2dc, ch2, 2dc, repeat in the next chain 2 space, in the ch3 from previous row make a dc. Turn your work.

Row 3: Ch3 (counts as 1st dc) * in the ch2 space from previous row make 2dc, ch2, 2dc, repeat in the next chain 2 space, ch4, sk 1 ch 3 space in the next ch3 space make a dc, ch4* repeat from *to* across, in the ch2 space from previous row make 2dc, ch2, 2dc, repeat in the next chain 2 space, dc in the top of the ch3 from previous row, turn your work. You will have your first set group of Flowers and dc clusters, you will have a total of 25 groups. The next 3 rows will be the same but the pattern will alternate, the clusters will be above the flowers and the flowers will be above the clusters.

Row 4: Ch7(first 3ch count as dc) ,* in between the 2 groups of 2 dc you will make 1dc,

Ch4, in the next 2 chains make 1dc, ch2, in next 2 chains make 1dc in each, skip the dc from previous row and in the next 4 chains make 1dc in the next 2 chains, ch2, 1dc in the next 2 chains, ch4* repeat from *to* across ending by making a dc in between the 2 groups of 2dc clusters, ch4 and in the ch3 from previous row make a dc. Turn your work.

Row 5: ch6 (counts as first dc and ch3) *count 3ch from previous row and hdc in it, ch3, pass the dc from the previous row and skip one chain, hdc in the next ch, ch3, in the ch2 space make (2dc, ch2, 2dc) repeat in the next chain 2 space, ch3* repeat from *to* across, count 3ch from previous row and hdc in it, ch3, pass the dc from the previous row and skip one chain, hdc in the next ch, ch3, in the 4th chain make a dc. Turn your work.

Row 6: ch7 (counts as first dc and ch4), skip the first ch3 space and dc in the next ch3 space, ch4, in the ch 2 space make (2dc, ch2, 2dc) repeat in the next ch2 space, ch3* repeat from *to* across, skipping the first ch3 space and dc in the next ch3 space, ch4, dc in the 5th chain, Turn your work.

Row 7: ch3 (counts as first dc) *make 1dc in the next 2chains, ch2,1dc in the next 2 ch, skip the dc and make 1dc in the next 2ch, ch2, 1dc in the next 2ch, ch4, in between the 2 clusters make 1dc, ch4* repeat from *to* across, make 1dc in the next 2ch, ch2, 1dc in next 2ch, skip the dc and make 1dc in the next 2ch, ch2, 1dc in the next 3ch. Turn your work.

Row 8-72: Repeat rows 2-7. Fasten off. Stopping at Row 72 the vest will sit about ankle length when measured just under your armpit down, if you want your vest longer or shorter you will have to make less or more rows. If you want it shorter or longer you will want to make sure you repeat rows 2-7 for however long you want your vest (test it as you go from your armpit to the desired length making sure to complete the 6 rows)

The Back:
You will skip the first 7 groups of flowers and double crochet clusters. You will skip in total 3 groups of double crochet clusters (see pic below what the dc cluster will look like)

and You will also skip 4 of the flowers (see pic below of what the flower will look like)

 For smaller/larger sizes: the number of flowers and dc clusters you skip for the back will have changed. You should have an odd number of groups of flowers and dc clusters in total. To find yours take that number and minus 3, the leftover number now will get divided in half, that is the number of groups for your back, you will add back the 3 to the remaining number, if that number is even take one away and add it to the back panel, now you will divide that even number in half, that will be for your front panels, you will skip that number to start your back.

Example: I had 25, take 3 away you get 22, divide that in half 11, that is your back number. Add the 3 to the 11 gives you 14, divide that in half gives you 7 that is your front panel groups that you will skip. Join your yarn with a slip stitch at the end of the 5th flower you skipped, in the last of the ch4 from the flower (see pic below)


Row 1: Ch7(first 3ch count as dc) ,* in between the 2 dc clusters you will make 1dc,

Ch4, in the next 2 chains make 1dc, ch2, in next 2 chains make 1dc in each, skip the dc from previous row and in the next 4 chains make 1dc in the next 2 chains, ch2, 1dc in the next 2 chains, ch4* repeat from *to* across until you have 11 groups in total you will have 6 flowers and 5 dc cluster groups, ending with a flower group, you will dc in the first ch from the previous row. Turn your work. You should have the same number of dc clusters and flowers groups left on the this side as you did on the right front side (7 groups in total)

Row 2: ch6 (counts as first dc and ch3) *count 3ch from previous row and hdc in it, ch3, pass the dc from the previous row and skip one chain, hdc in the next ch, ch3, in the ch2 space make (2dc, ch2, 2dc) repeat in the next chain 2 space* repeat from *to* across until you reach the end of your row, dc in the 4 th chain. Turn your work.

Row 3: ch7 (counts as first dc and ch4), skip the first ch3 space and dc in the next ch3 space, ch4, in the ch 2 space make (2dc, ch2, 2dc) repeat in the next ch2 space* repeat from *to* across until you reach the end of your row, dc in the 3rd chain, Turn your work.

 Row 4: ch3 (counts as first dc) *make 1dc in the next 2chains, ch2,1dc in the next 2 ch, skip the dc and make 1dc in the next 2ch, ch2, 1dc in the next 2ch, ch4, in between the 2 clusters make 1dc, ch4* repeat from *to* across until you reach the end of the row, dc in the next chain. Turn your work.

Row 5: ch3(counts as 1st dc) *in the ch2 space from previous row make 2dc, ch2, 2dc, repeat in the next chain 2 space, ch3, count 3ch and hdc in it, ch3, pass the dc from the previous row and skip one chain, hdc in the next ch, ch3* Repeat from *to* across until you reach the end of your row, in the ch3 from previous row make a dc. Turn your work.

Row 6: Ch3 (counts as 1st dc) * in the ch2 space from previous row make 2dc, ch2, 2dc, repeat in the next chain 2 space, ch4, sk 1 ch 3 space in the next ch3 space make a dc, ch4* repeat from *to* across until you reach the end of your row, dc in the top of the ch3 from previous row, turn your work.

Row 7-15: repeat rows 1-6. When you reach the end of the 15th row you will fasten off. You will want to test this again for your size, if the armhole length isn’t long enough for your size you will want to make more rows or less rows.
If you do make sure you try to keep in pattern of 3 rows to make up the flowers and dc cluster groups. If you do make less or more rows for your armhole you will want to take note as how many rows you did as it will affect your front panel. But no worries below will be some help.

Front Panels:
For the armhole space, you will skip the flower and join your yarn in the last ch of the ch4 (see pic below)


Row 1-9: follow rows 1-9 for the back. You will have 6 groups in total for the front panel. Note for other sizes: if you made less or more rows than the 15 for the back you will need to adjust your front collar decrease. You will need 6 rows for the decrease so minus that from your back row number and stop working even at that row then continue from Row 10 for the decreases. Remember to repeat the same rows for the second panel. Decrease for the collar you will not decrease at the armhole edge but the neck edge:

Row 10: you will sl st in each st until you reach the center of the dc clusters,

Ch7 (counts as dc and ch4), *dc in the next 2 ch, ch2, dc in next 2 ch, skipping the dc from previous row, make 1dc in each of the next 2 ch, ch2, dc in the next 2 ch, ch4, dc in between the dc clusters* repeat to the end of the row, make a dc in the 3rd ch, turn your work.

Row 11: ch3(counts as first dc), *in the ch2 space make (2dc, ch2, 2dc), repeat that in the next ch2 space, ch3, hdc in the 3rd chain, ch3, skipping the dc from previous row and the 1st chain make a hdc in the next chain, ch3* repeat from *to* until you reach the last flower group,

you will have 2 flower groups and 3 dc clusters before you reach the last flower group, you will end the row by making 1dc in the first ch and turn your work.

Row 12: you will sl st in each st until you reach the center of the dc clusters, ch3(counts as first dc), *in the next ch2 sp make (2dc, ch2, 2dc), ch4, skip the first ch3 space in the next ch3 space make a dc, ch4, in the next ch2 sp make (2dc, ch2, 2dc) * repeat from *to* to the end of your row, making 1 dc in the 3rd chain from the previous row. Turn your work.

Row 13: ch7 (counts as dc and ch4), *in between the 2 clusters make a dc, ch4, in the next 2 chains make 1 dc, ch2, dc in the next 2 chains, skipping the dc make a dc in the next 2 ch, ch2, dc in the next 2 ch, ch4* repeat from *to* until you have 4 groups left ending with a dc cluster, you will dc in the next dc. Turn your work.

Row 14: ch3,* in the ch2 space make (2dc, ch2, 2dc), repeat that in the next ch2 space, ch3, hdc in the 3 rd chain, ch3, skipping the dc and next ch hdc in the 2nd chain, ch3* repeat from *to* until you have reached the end of your row, make a dc in the top of the 3rd ch. Turn your work.

Row 15: ch7 (counts as dc and ch4), *skipping the first ch3, make a dc in the next ch3 sp, ch4, in the next 2 ch2 space make (2dc, ch2, 2dc), ch4* repeat from *to* until you reach the end of your row, make a dc in the top of the 3rd ch. Fasten off your work.

You will repeat these 15 rows for the other side of your front panel, making sure to decrease at the collar edge and no the armhole edge.

The Assembly:

You will put your work wrong side facing you so that the front panels line up with the back making sure the armholes are even. You will now slip stitch the shoulder seam closed, making sure to match stitch for stitch. Fasten off once you reach the end of the first panel. You will repeat this for the second side as well.


The Border:

You will now make a border of sc all around the free edge of your vest and the armholes as well. With your work right side facing you, join your yarn at the bottom corner of your vest with a slip stitch, you will be working along the inside edge of your vest working in the side of the rows. You will want to make sure you are consistent with the number of sc you add, you will want to make it even on both sides. This is how I did mine in the side of the rows, in the ch3 space on the side of the dc cluster rows I made 2sc in the ch3 sp, 1sc in between the row, 2sc in the next ch sp, 1sc in between the row, 2sc in the next ch sp, 1 sc in between the row, for the flower rows, I made 3sc in the ch space, 1sc in between the rows, 2sc in the ch3 sp, 1sc in between the row and 3 sc in the next ch space, repeating this all along your side till you reach the back, there you will make a sc in each st as it presents itself, the work down the other side of the vest the same as you did the other side, once you reach the bottom you will pick up 1 sc in each st along the bottom until you reach the first sc you made, sl st with it and fasten off. For the armholes, you will repeat the same thing picking up stitches evenly. Fasten off and hide all loose tails. Hood: To start your hood you will need to find the point on the front panel where you began you decrease. Once you find that you will then count down 9 rows or 3 groups of flowers and dc clusters with a stitch marker mark it and the other side in the same spot too. You will want 120 sc in between the stitch markers. If you don’t have that adjust the st markers evenly until you do. Note: If you made your vest a different size you may need to adjust your hood count, to find yours you will still do as above finding the beginning of your collar decreases and counting down 3 groups of flowers and dc clusters, you will need to count the st in between your stitch markers and then increase about 20 st evenly in the first row. Work the same number of rows or until you are satisfied with your hoods length. Assemble and add the border the same as instructed below.

Row 1: Join your yarn in the same place as your st marker with a slip stitch, ch3(counts as dc) now dc in the next 5 st, *make 2 dc in the next st, dc in the next 6st* repeat from *to* until you reach the next st marker. You will have increased to 140dc. Turn your work.

Row 2-34: ch3 (counts as first dc), skip the first dc at the bottom of the ch3 and dc in the next st, dc in each st across and lastly make a dc in the top of the ch3, you will have 140dc in total.

You will not fasten off, you will now fold your hood in half wrong sides facing you, you will now assemble the top seam of your hood together with a slip stitch matching stitch for stitch, once you reach the fold you are done, fasten off and sew in all the loose tails. Turn your hood right side facing you. You will now make a sc border along the edge of the hood. Pass your crochet hook about 2sc before your first row of dc and join your yarn with a slip stitch, ch1, sc in the next sc, you will pick up 2 sc per row of dc, when you get to the ridge of the hood you will make 1 sc in the seam, continue to pick up 2sc per row until you reach the end of the hoodie side and the first st of your vest, sc in the next st of the vest, sl st in the next st and fasten off, hide all loose tails and you are done.

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 








All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Monday, August 14, 2017

Emoji Pixel Blanket

Emoji Pixel Blanket
By: Annoo Crochet Designs

Video Link: clic here

You will need:
Berroco Comfort Yarn (Worsted Weight yarn) 3.5oz/100 g/210 yds 50% Super Fine Acrylic, 50% Super Fine Nylon
300 g- 9766 (Sable) 500 g- 9707 (Boy Blue) 100 g7723 (Rosebud) 100 g- 9701 (Ivory)
200 g- 9734 (Liquorice)

Crochet hook 4.5mm Scissors
Tapestry needle

Stitches used:
Sc: Single crochet Dc: Double crochet Sl st: slip stitch
You can go to Pinterest and search for Crochet Pixel blankets and there is an array of charts you can use.
Instructions:
To keep your Pixel blanket squares all the same size you will want to use the same brand of yarn throughout, picking your colors according to your design.
The trickiest part for a beginner crocheter may be the joining, but once you get the hang of it it becomes easy and works up fast. You can also join them by sewing if you are too intimidated by the way I show how to join them. Just make all your squares and hide all the loose tails then stitch up the blanket how you feel comfortable.
To make the squares for your Pixel Blanket:
If you choose to follow the technique I used in the video you will want to use the chart and work in rows. You will work 1 row adding each square together as you go along, the second and following rows you will add each new square to the previous row and to the row you are working on. Once you get the hang of it you will move along quickly. No sewing required, except to hide loose tails.

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With your crochet hook and yarn make a magic circle,
Round 1: ch3, 2dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1 in the magic circle, pull on the end yarn to tighten the granny up, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Round 2: sl st on top of the dc until you are in the center of the ch1 sp, ch3, 2dc, ch3, 3dc in the same sp, *ch1, 3dc, ch3, 3dc in next ch1 sp* repeat from *to* until you have 4 corners made, ch1 and sl st with the top of the ch3. Fasten off.
If you choose to sew your squares then continue to make your grannies as above. Use the chart as a guide to assemble and for the colors of squares you will need.
Now if you choose to do the No Sew Method you can watch the video at the 10:56 minute mark. For your first row, this is how you will join the squares.
Joining Grannies for Row 1:
Make your next granny like so,be sure to follow the chart so you know when to change colors for each new Granny.
Round 1: ch3, 2dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1 in the magic circle, pull on the end yarn to tighten the granny up, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Round 2: begin your granny like so, sl st to the first ch1 space, (ch3, 2dc, ch3, 3dc) in the same sp, in the next ch1 sp make 3dc, ch1, you will now take your first square and place it wrong sides together, in the corner of the first square sl st in the ch3 sp, ch1 and make 3dc in the ch1 sp from the granny you are working on, in the ch1 sp from the first granny sl st, you will then make 3dc in the ch1 sp of the granny you are working on, ch1, in the ch3 sp of the previous granny sl st, ch1, finish off making 3dc in the ch1 sp of the granny you are working on, ch1, (3dc, ch3, 3dc) in the next ch1 sp, ch1, sl st with the firs t ch3 and fasten off. Hide all loose tails be sure to knot the center so it won’t unravel during use and wash.
For row 1 of your chart you will continue to make and attach the grannies as above , when you complete joining the first row you will move on to the next row.

Joining Grannies for Rows 2-16
Step 1:
You will now be joining in the row below as well as the row you are working on. Again, be sure to follow the chart so you know when to change colors for each new granny.
You will join the first granny this way for all the rows.
Round 1: ch3, 2dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, 3dc, ch1 in the magic circle, pull on the end yarn to tighten the granny up, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Round 2: sl st to the first ch1 sp, (ch3, 2dc, ch3, 3dc) in the ch1 sp, you wi ll make 3dc in the next ch1 sp, ch1, you will now put this granny wrong sides facing to the first granny from the previous row see 17:31 minute mark for help, sl st in the ch3 sp, 3dc in the same ch1 sp on the granny you are working on, sl st in the ch1 sp, in next ch1 sp of the granny you are working on make 3dc, ch1, you will sl st in the st joining the first and second grannies together,

ch1, 3dc in the ch1 sp from granny you are working on, ch1, finish off your granny by making 3dc, ch1, 3dc in the last ch1 sp, ch1, sl st with the first ch3. Fasten off and sew in loose tails.
Step 2:
To Join the rest of the squares for the row you will assemble them like so:
Round1: ch3,2dc, ch1,3dc,ch1, 3dc,ch1,3dc, ch1inthemagiccircle,pullontheendyarntotighten the granny up, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Round 2: sl st to the ch1 sp, ch3, 2dc, ch3, 3dc in the ch1 sp, ch1, make 3dc in the next ch1 sp, ch1, you will now join your granny to the previous granny in this row wrong sides together, 20:44 minute mark for help,

sl st in the ch3 sp, ch1, 3dc in the same ch1 sp, sl st in the ch1 sp from the previous granny, in the next ch1 sp make 3dc, ch1, sl st to the st in between the grannies from the previous row, ch1, make 3dc in the ch1 sp of the granny you are working on, sl st in the ch1 sp of the granny from the previous row, 

3dc in the ch1 sp of the granny you are working on, ch1, sl st in the st in the st between the 2 grannies from the previous row,
ch1, 3dc in the same ch1 sp on the granny you are working on, ch1, sl st with the first ch3. Fasten off and hide all loose tails.
Repeat the last 2 Rounds for the rest of this row, changing color as it presents itself in the chart.
You will now repeat these 2 steps for each new row, making sure to change colors according to the chart.
I added 1 extra round of blue grannies around my blanket, join them the same as you have been. You don’t have to do this, you can leave it as the chart shows and go on to the border below.
Border:
With your hook and blue yarn, join with a sl st to any st in between 2 grannies, ch1 sc in the same st, pick up 1 sc in the ch sp, sc in each of the dc, sc in the ch1 sp, sc in each of the dc, sc in the ch sp, sc in st between grannies, you will repeat this around until you reach a corner, you will make 3 sc in the corner spaces, continue like that until you reach the first sc you made, sl st and fasten off, hide all loose tails.
Join your black yarn with a sl st in the middle st of any corner, ch1, sc in the same st, *ch5, sc in the same st, ch7, sc in same st, ch5, sc in the same st, ch4, sk 5st and sc in the next st*, repeat from *to* around your blanket, ending with a ch4, sl st with the first sc, fasten off and hide all loose tail . You are done.
   

Links:
10:56 minute mark :
https://youtu.be/XfgtPskxf0I?t=657 17:31 minute mark: https://youtu.be/XfgtPskxf0I?t=1051 20:44 minute mark: https://youtu.be/XfgtPskxf0I?t=1244 
Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 








All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Easy Crochet Earrings

Easy Crochet Earrings
By: Annoo Crochet Designs


Video Link:click here
You will need:
Small amount of Fingering/Lace weight yarn in your color choice 2.0 mm crochet hook
Scissors
Tapestry needle

Stitch marker
2 Fish hook earrings
6 Jump rings
Pair of Round Nose jewelry pliers Small amount of Poly-fil

Stitches used:
Sc: single Crochet Sl st: Slip Stitch
Instructions:
Starting with the Small ball first (make 2):
With your hook and yarn make a slip knot and ch2,
Round 1: make 6 sc in the second ch from hook,
Round 2: 2sc in each st around (12sc)
Round 3-4: sc all around, using your st marker to mark your rounds. (12 sc) Round 5: sc2tog in each st around (6sc)
Stuff firmly with your Poly-fil
Round 6: sc in each st around, (6sc) Fasten off, leaving about 6 inch tail. Make a second ball.
Medium Ball (make 2)
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With your hook and yarn make a slip knot and ch2,
Round 1: make 6 sc in the second ch from hook,
Round 2: 2sc in each st around (12sc)
Round 3: 2sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, repeat that around (18sc)
Round 4-5: sc all around, (18sc)
Round 6: sc2tog, sc in next st, repeat that all around (12sc)
Round 7: sc2tog all around (6sc)
Stuff your ball with Poly-fil firmly
Round 8: sc in each st around (6sc) fasten off and leave about a 6 inch tail. Make a second medium ball.
Large Ball:
With your hook and yarn make a slip knot and ch2,
Round 1: make 6 sc in the second ch from hook,
Round 2: 2sc in each st around (12sc)
Round 3: 2sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, repeat that around (18sc) Round 4: 2sc in next st, sc in next 2 st, repeat that around (24sc) Round 5-6: Sc in each st around (24sc)
Round 7: sc2tog, sc in next 2st, repeat that around (18sc) Round 8: sc2tog, sc in next st, repeat that around (12sc) Round 9: sc2tog around, (6sc)
Stuff your ball firmly with Poly-fil

Round 10: sc in each st around. (6sc) Fasten off and leave about a 6 inch tail. Make a second Large ball.
Time to connect them:
Take a jump ring and the earring hook, you will open the jump ring with your pliers (just enough to slip on the end of the earring. Once you have added the ring close the ring with your pliers.
You will now take your tapestry needle and larger ball, stitch the hole closed, pass the needle through the jump ring and secure it to the large ball. Pass your needle through the center of the ball where you willattachanotherjumpring. Takeanotherjumpringandpassyourneedlethroughtheholeand secure it to the ball using your needle and yarn. Fasten off and hide all loose tails.

With your needle and Medium ball, stitch the opening closed, using the same string you used to close the hole.
Pass your needle through the jump ring on the larger ball, secure it back to the medium ball. Pass your needle and yarn through the center of your medium ball and attach another jump ring, pass needle though the ring and secure it to the Medium ball. Fasten off and hide all loose tails.
With your needle and Smaller ball, stitch the opening closed, using the same string you used to cl ost the hole, pass you needle through the jump ring on the Medium ball, secure it back to the small ball. Pass your needle and yarn through the center secure it once more at the bottom, Fasten off and hide all loose tails.
Repeat this for the second earring and you are done. 

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 








All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Bohemian Vest Crochet



Bohemian Vest Crochet
By Annoo Crochet Designs


Video link: Click here for  Part 1
Click here for Part 2

Size: One size fits most
If you are taller than 5ft 5inches you may find the vest will be a little shorter. In the instructions there

are some hints to make it longer.

You will need:
Main color:
12skeins(600g) of Sirdar Crofter DK Fair Isle effect dk (Dk weight yarn)
Color: Bracken (050)
Fiber: 60% Acrylic/25%Cotton/15% Wool Ball Weight: 50g/184yds/1.75oz

Border Color:
3 skein(150g) of Berroco Comfort Dk Color: White (2702)
Fiber: 50% Super fine nylon/50% Super fine Acrylic
Ball Weight: 50g/178yds/1/75oz Crochet hook 4mm/G
Tapestry needle Scissors
Stitches used:
Sc: single crochet Dc: double crochet
Gauge:
Approximately 5 rows=2 inches
6dc and 5 ch1 = 2 inches
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Instructions:
The Back:
With your 4mm hook and main color yarn make a magic circle,
Row 1: ch4 (counts as first dc and ch1), dc, ch1, dc, ch1, dc in the magic circle, tighten the loose tail from the magic circle and turn your work. 4dc Total.
Row 2: ch4 (counts as first dc and ch1), make a dc at the base of your ch4, ch1, *in the ch1 sp from previous row make 1dc, ch1*, repeat from *to* across to the last ch1 sp, in the ch4 from previous row make 1 dc in the 3rd chain. Turn your work. 6dc total.
Row 3-29: repeat row 2, you will be increasing 2 dc per row. You will have 60dc in total that will include the ch4 at the beginning of the row.
This part of the vest will sit an inch or 2 below your bum, if it isnt long enough for your size then now is the time to make some more rows. Keep in mind there will be the border and fringe added to the length which will be roughly 15 inches. You will want to work your extra rows even no more increasing. See Row 62 for help. How ever many extra even rows you decide to do you will always have 60dc.

Time to decrease:
Row 30: ch4 (counts as first dc and ch1), sk the first ch1 sp, dc, ch1 in the next ch1 sp from previous row, *in the next ch1 sp from previous row make 1dc, ch1* repeat from *to* until you reach the last ch1 sp from the previous row, you will skip it and make a dc in the 3rd ch of the ch4 from the previous row, turn your work. Total of 59dc
Row 31-61: Repeat Row 30 you will continue to decrease 1 dc per row, by the end of Row 61 you should have 28dc in total.
The rest of the vest will be worked even, no more decreasing.

Row 62: ch4 (counts as first dc and ch1), in the first ch1 sp make a dc, ch1, *dc in the next ch1 sp, ch1* repeat *to* across leaving the last ch1 sp untouched, in the 3rd ch of the ch4 from the previous row make a dc, turn your work.
Row 63-75: repeat row 62, fasten off at the end of row 75 and hide all loose tails.
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Front panel (make 2)

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If you made your vest longer by adding more rows after row 29 your chains main need to be increased, see Note at the end of the front panel section for help.
With your 4mm hook and main color yarn make a slip knot and ch 170
Row 1: ch4 (counts as first dc and ch1), sk 4 ch and in the 5th make a dc, *ch1, sk a st, dc in next st* repeat from *to* across your chain, turn your work. You will have 85dc
You will now be decreasing for the front panel, on one end you will make a gentle decrease and the other end will be a steeper decrease. The steeper decrease is the armhole opening and the gentle decrease is the bottom of your vest. As you work your decreases make sure to remember which side you have a gentle decrease and the steeper decrease.
Row 2: ch4, (counts as first dc and ch1) sk the first ch1 sp and dc in the next ch1 sp from previous row (gentle decrease made), *ch1, dc in next ch1 sp, * repeat from *to* until there are 2dc left



Sk the dc, ch1, dc and make a dc in the ch4 sp (steep decrease made), turn your work.
Row 3: ch4 (counts as first dc and ch1), sk first 2 ch1 sp, dc in next ch1 sp (steep decrease made), *ch1, dc in next ch1 sp* repeat from *to* across making your last dc in the ch4 sp of the previous row (gentle decrease made). Turn your work
Row 4-21: Repeat row 2-3
Row 22: (Steep decrease at both ends) ch4, (counts as first dc and ch1), sk first 2 ch1 sp from previous row, dc in next ch1 sp, *ch1, dc in next ch1 sp* repeat from *to* until there are 2dc left, sk the (dc, ch1, dc) and make a dc in the ch4 sp. Turn your work
Row 23-36: Repeat Row 22, you will have dc, ch1, dc left at the end of Row 36. Fasten off and Hide all loose tails. Now make a second panel exactly the same.
Note: If you added extra even rows at the end of Row 29 you will need to adjust your beginning chain count. You will want to measure the chain to the back of your vest from the top to the point, add more chains in a multiple of 2 until the chain fits from the top to the bottom of the vest. Work the rows the same as the pattern above, you will not end on Row 36, keep decreasing until you have a (dc, ch1, dc) left. Fasten off and Repeat for the second side.

Border for the Front panels and Back

You will work a row of sc around the edge of the pieces like so. Front panels:
››
With your hook and main color yarn join at the bottom corner of the front panel (see below pic where to join your yarn, your panel will be free from the vest not like the pic) ,

you will sc along making 2sc in each ch spaces of the gentle decrease edge and when you reach the steeper edge you will make 3 sc in each ch sp, you will leave the first row of the front panel free, see pic below. Fasten off and hide loose tails.

For the Back panel you will do the same thing starting at the top corner and working around the edge till you reach the other side of the top corner. You will leave the top free, fasten off and hide loose tails.



The Assembly
Place the wrong sides facing each other, you will begin at the top by joining your yarn with a sl st to the first sc and you will sl st over the next 7 st, picking up the loop closest to you from the front of your work and the loop furthest from you on the back of your work. Fasten off.


Count 32 st down from the fasten off st and join your yarn (unless you want a larger opening then skip more st until your armhole is large enough for you) , making sure to count 32 st on both sides, sl st the loop closest to you and the loop furthest from you on your work, once you reached the end fasten off.

When you are finished this is what your work will look like.

Border
This first round will be a base for the border to work off of, with your Border color yarn and crochet hook join at the corner (see pic below)

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You will work sc in the ch1 sp and 1 sc in dc all along the edge up to the neck and back down the other edge. (see pic below)

 
You will now sc in the bottom edge of your vest, sc in each sc until you reach the first sc you made, sl st with the first sc. Fasten off.
You will now join your border color yarn to any st in the armhole and make a round of sc, sl st with the first sc and fasten off, repeat for the second armhole.
Row 1: With the right sides of your work facing you, join the Border color yarn to the bottom corner of the front edge. You will ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each st until you reach the pointy part of the back (see pic below) you will make 3dc in that st, dc in each st until you reach the second side of your vest front.

Row 2: ch1, sc in the same st as ch1, ch6, sk 6, sc in next st, repeat this across your row, turn your work.
Row 3: ch2, sl st in the first ch6 from the previous row, ch3 (counts as first dc) , make 3 dc in same sp, ch2, 4dc in same ch6 sp, *in the next ch6 loop, 4dc, ch2, 4dc* repeat from *to* across, turn your work.

Row 4: ch3, *in the ch2 sp from previous row make (sc, ch15, sc, ch15, sc, ch15, sc), ch3, sk 4dc, sc in between the 4dc, ch3* Repeat from *to* across ending with a ch3 and sc in the last dc. Turn your work
Row 5: ch8, *in the first ch15 loop from previous row make 3sc, in the next loop make (3dc, ch2, 3dc), in the 3rd loop make 3sc* repeat from *to* across. Turn your work.
Row 6: *Ch3, in the ch2 sp make (3dc, ch2, 3dc), ch3, in the st between the 2 set of 3sc of row 5 and the loops from row 4 you will want to make a sc in between that space,* repeat from *to* across your row ending with ch3, sc in the first sc from the previous row. Turn your work.

Row 7: ch1, sc in the same sp *ch3, (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in the ch2 sp from previous row, ch3, sc in the sc from the previous row, ch3* repeat from *to* across you row ending with a ch3 and sc in the base of the ch3 from the previous row. Fasten off your work and hide all loose tails.
Time to make the fringe for your border
Take your white yarn and start making several strands about 20 inches long. With your main color yarn make several 20 inch strands as well, you will use less of this color per ch2 space of your border.
Take 3 strands of white and 1 of the body color, fold them in half, take a crochet hook, pass through the ch2 space, grab the loop of the folded strand and pass it through the ch2 sp, yarn over and pull through the loop. You made your first fringe, repeat for the other chain 2 spaces. You can trim them to make them even or leave them as is. But that it is you are done, I hope you like it as much as I do. 

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 







All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo