Monday, June 11, 2018

Crochet Pom Pom Sunshine Shawl

Crochet Pom Pom Sunshine Shawl


By: Annoo Crochet Designs
Video Link: click here
Skill level: Intermediate/Expert

Size: One size fits most (can be made smaller or larger by continuing the 7-row pattern repeat more or
less depending on the size you wish)
Finished size: approximately 57 inches wide at the last row and 27 inches measured from the first row to the last row.
Gauge: 7 rows in pattern= 4 inches
You will need:
7 skeins Mondial Le Perle Gold Cashmere (dk/sport weight yarn #3) Color: Beige
Fiber: 80% Merino wool, 20% Cashmere
Ball weight: 50g/193yds/1.76oz
Small amounts, in an array of colors, for the Pom Pom

Berroco Comfort Dk Yarn Crochet hook 3.25mm/D
Tapestry needle
Scissors
Small amount of Polyfil
*note* The Mondial yarn may be hard to find as it is discontinued, but any dk/sports weight yarn will work for this pattern.

Stitches Used:
Ch: chain
Sc: single crochet
Dc: double crochet
Tr: Treble crochet
Dtr: Double treble crochet


Instructions:

With your yarn and hook make a magic circle,
Base Row: ch1, make 5 sc in the magic circle, pull the end yarn to close the hole. Turn your work.
Row 1: ch7, sk the next st, dc in the next 2 st, ch2, sk the next st and in the last make a Tr. Turn your work.

Row 2: ch5, make 2 dc in the ch2 sp from the previous row, dc in the next 2 dc, 2dc in the next ch2 sp, ch2, Tr in the top of the 3rd ch from the previous row. Turn your work.

Row 3: ch5, make 2 dc in the ch2 sp from the previous row, dc in the next 6 dc, 2dc in the next ch2 sp, ch2, Tr in the top of the 3rd ch from the previous row. Turn your work.

Row 4: ch5, make 3 dc in the ch2 sp from the previous row, ch5, sk 4st, in the next 2 st make a Dtr, ch5, sk to the ch sp and make 3dc, ch2, Tr in the top of the 3rd ch from the previous row. Turn your work.

Row 5: ch5, make 2 dc in the ch2 sp from previous row, dc in the next 2dc from previous row, ch5, sk 4 ch, sc in the 5th ch, sc in each of the Dtr, sc in the first ch, ch5, sk the first dc from previous row, make a dc in the next 2dc, 2dc in the ch sp, ch2, Tr in the top of the 3rd ch from previous row. Turn your work.

Row 6: ch5, 2dc in the ch2 from previous row, dc in the next 3 st, ch5, sc in the 5th ch from previous row, sc in each of the next 4 st, sc in the first ch, ch5, sk the ch and the first dc, dc in the next 3dc, 2dc in the ch sp, ch2, make a Tr in the top of the 3rd ch from previous row. Turn your work.

Row 7: ch5, 2dc in the ch2 sp, dc in the next 4st, ch4, sc on top of each of the 6sc from previous row, ch4, sk the first dc, make a dc in the next 4st, 2dc in the ch sp, ch2, Tr in the top of the 3rd ch. Turn your work.

Row 8: ch5, 2dc in the ch sp, ch2, sk 2 dc, dc in the next 4 dc, dc in the first ch, ch5, sc in the top of the 6sc from previous row, ch5, in the 4th ch make a dc, dc in the next 4dc, ch2, sk 2 dc, 2dc in the ch sp, ch2, Tr in the 3rd ch from previous row. Turn your work.

Row 9: ch5, 2dc in the ch sp, dc in the next 2 dc, 2dc in the next ch 2 sp, ch2, sk 2 dc, dc in the next 3st, dc in the first ch, ch5, sk a sc, sc in the next 4, ch5, dc in the 5th ch, dc in the next 3 st, ch 2, sk 2 dc, 2dc in the ch 2 sp, dc in the next 2st, 2dc in the last ch sp, ch2, Tr in the 3rd ch . Turn your work.
Row 10: ch5, 2d in the ch sp, dc in the next 6st, 2dc in the ch sp, ch2, sk 2dc, dc in the next 2, dc in the first ch, ch4, sk the first sc, Dtr in the next 2 st, ch4, dc in the 5th ch, dc in the next 2 st, ch2, sk 2dc, 2dc in the ch2 sp, dc in the next 6 st, 2dc in the last ch sp, ch2, Tr in the 3rd ch. Turn your work.

Row 11: ch5, 3dc in the ch sp, ch5, sk 4dc, Dtr in next 2 st, ch5, sk 4dc, in the next ch 2 make 3dc, ch2, sk 3 dc, dc in the next 4 ch, dc in each of the next 2 st, dc in the next 4 ch, ch2, in the next ch2 sp make 3 dc, ch5, sk 4dc, Dtr in the next 2 st, ch5, in the next ch 2 sp make 3dc, ch2, Tr in the 3rd ch. Turn your work.
Row 12: ch5, 2dc in the ch sp, dc in each of the next 2 dc, ch5, sk 4 ch, sc in the 5th ch, sc in each of the next 2 st, sc in the first ch, ch5, sk 1st dc, dc in next 2 dc, 2dc in the ch sp, ch2, sk 2dc, dc in the next 6 st, ch2, sk 2 dc, 2dc in the ch sp, dc in the next 2 st, ch5, sk 4 ch, sc in the 5th, sc in the 2 st, sc in the first ch, ch5, sk the first dc, dc in the next 2st, 2 dc in the ch sp, ch2, Tr in the 3rd ch. Turn your work.

Row 13: ch5, 2dc in the ch sp, dc in next 3 st, ch5, sc in the 5th ch, sc in next 4 st, sc in the first ch, ch5, sk the first dc, dc in next 3 st, 2dc in the ch sp, ch2, sk 2dc, dc in the next 2 st, ch2, sk 2dc, 2dc in the ch sp, dc in the next 3 st, ch5, sc in the 5th ch, sc in the next 4 st, sc in the first ch, ch5, sk the first dc, dc in the next 3 st, 2dc in the ch sp, ch 2, Tr in the 3rd ch. Turn your work.
Row 14: ch5, 2dc in the ch sp, dc in next 4dc, ch4, sc in each of the 6 next sc, ch4, sk 1st dc, dc in the next 4 st, 2dc in the next ch sp, ch2, sk the next 2 dc, 2dc in next ch sp, dc in the next 4 st, ch 4, sc in the next 6 sc, ch 4, sk first dc, dc in next 4 st, 2dc in the ch sp, ch2, Tr in the 3rd ch . Turn your work.
Row 15: ch5, 2dc in the ch sp, ch2, sk 2dc, dc in the next 4 st, dc in the first ch, ch5, sc in the next 6 sc, ch5, dc in the 4th ch from previous row, dc in the next 4 dc, ch 2, 2dc in the ch sp, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next 4 st, 1 dc in first ch, ch 5, sc in each of the 6sc, ch5, dc in the 4th ch from previous row, dc in the next 4 st, ch 2 sk 2 dc, 2 dc in the ch sp , ch 2, Tr in the 3rd ch. Turn your work.
Row 16: ch5, 2 dc in the ch sp, dc in the next 2 dc, 2dc in ch sp, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in the next 3 st, dc in the first ch, ch5, sk the first sc, sc in the next 4 st, ch 5, dc in the 5th ch from previous row, dc in next 3 st, ch 2, sk 2dc, 2 dc in ch sp, dc in next 2 st, 2dc in next ch sp, ch 2, sk 2dc, dc in next 3 dc, dc in the first ch, ch 5, sk a sc, sc in next 4 st, ch 5, dc in 5th ch, dc in next 3 dc, ch 2, sk 2dc, 2dc in ch sp, dc in next 2 st, 2dc in ch sp, ch 2, Tr in 3rd ch. Turn your work.
Row 17: ch5, 2dc in ch sp, dc in next 6st, 2dc in next ch sp, ch 2, sk 2dc, dc in next 2 st, dc in the first ch, ch 5, sk a sc, Dtr in next 2 st, ch 5, dc in the 5th ch from previous row, dc in next 2 st, ch 2, sk 2 dc, 2 dc in ch sp, dc in next 6 st, 2dc in ch sp, ch 2, sk 2dc, dc in next 2 st, dc in first ch, ch 5, sk sc, Dtr in next 2 st, ch 5, dc in the 5th ch from previous row, dc in next 2 st, ch 2, sk 2 dc, 2 dc in the ch sp, dc in next 6 st, 2dc in next ch sp, ch 2, Tr in 3rd ch. Turn your work.

Row 18: ch5, 3dc in the ch sp, ch5, sk 4dc, Dtr in next 2 st, ch5, sk 4dc, in the next ch 2 make 3dc, ch2, *sk 3 dc, dc in the next 4 ch, dc in each of the next 2 st, dc in the next 4 ch, ch2, in the next ch2 sp make 3 dc, ch5, sk 4dc, Dtr in the next 2 st, ch5, in the next ch 2 sp make 3dc, ch2*repeat from *to* until you reach the end of your work, make a Tr in the 3rd ch. Turn your work.
Row 19: ch5, 2dc in the ch sp, dc in each of the next 2 dc, ch5, sk 4 ch, sc in the 5th ch, sc in each of the next 2 st, sc in the first ch, ch5, sk 1st dc, dc in next 2 dc, 2dc in the ch sp, ch2, *sk 2dc, dc in the next 6 st, ch2, sk 2 dc, 2dc in the ch sp, dc in the next 2 st, ch5, sk 4 ch, sc in the 5th, sc in the 2 st, sc in the first ch, ch5, sk the first dc, dc in the next 2st, 2 dc in the ch sp, ch2* repeat from *to* until you reach the end of your work, 

make a Tr in the 3rd ch. Turn your work.
Row 20: ch5, 2dc in the ch sp, dc in next 3 st, ch5, sc in the 5th ch, sc in next 4 st, sc in the first ch, ch5, sk the first dc, dc in next 3 st, 2dc in the ch sp, ch2,* sk 2dc, dc in the next 2 st, ch2, sk 2dc, 2dc in the ch sp, dc in the next 3 st, ch5, sc in the 5th ch, sc in the next 4 st, sc in the first ch, ch5, sk the first dc, dc in the next 3 st, 2dc in the ch sp, ch 2* repeat from *to* until you reach the end of your work, make a Tr in the 3rd ch. Turn your work.
Row 21: ch5, 2dc in the ch sp, dc in next 4dc, ch4, sc in each of the 6 next sc, ch4, sk 1st dc, dc in the next 4 st, 2dc in the next ch sp, ch2, *sk the next 2 dc, 2dc in next ch sp, dc in the next 4 st, ch 4, sc in the next 6 sc, ch 4, sk first dc, dc in next 4 st, 2dc in the ch sp, ch2* repeat from *to* until the end of your work, make a Tr in the 3rd ch . Turn your work.
Row 22: ch5, 2dc in the ch sp, ch2, sk 2dc, dc in the next 4 st, dc in the first ch, ch5, sc in the next 6 sc, ch5, dc in the 4th ch from previous row, dc in the next 4 dc, ch 2, 2dc in the ch sp, ch 2,* sk 2 dc, dc in next 4 st, 1 dc in first ch, ch 5, sc in each of the 6sc, ch5, dc in the 4th ch from previous row, dc in the next 4 st, ch 2 sk 2 dc, 2 dc in the ch sp , ch 2* repeat from *to* until the end of your work, make a Tr in the 3rd ch. Turn your work.
Row 23: ch5, 2 dc in the ch sp, dc in the next 2 dc, 2dc in ch sp, ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in the next 3 st, dc in the first ch, ch5, sk the first sc, sc in the next 4 st, ch 5, dc in the 5th ch from previous row, dc in next 3 st, ch 2, sk 2dc, 2 dc in ch sp, dc in next 2 st, 2dc in next ch sp, ch 2, *sk 2dc, dc in next 3 dc, dc in the first ch, ch 5, sk a sc, sc in next 4 st, ch 5, dc in 5th ch, dc in next 3 dc, ch 2, sk 2dc, 2dc in ch sp, dc in next 2 st, 2dc in ch sp, ch 2*repeat from *to* until the end of your work, make a Tr in 3rd ch. Turn your work.
Row 24: ch5, 2dc in ch sp, dc in next 6st, 2dc in next ch sp, ch 2, sk 2dc, dc in next 2 st, dc in the first ch, ch 5, sk a sc, Dtr in next 2 st, ch 5, dc in the 5th ch from previous row, dc in next 2 st, ch 2, sk 2 dc, 2 dc in ch sp, dc in next 6 st, 2dc in ch sp, ch 2, *sk 2dc, dc in next 2 st, dc in first ch, ch 5, sk sc, Dtr in next 2 st, ch 5, dc in the 5th ch from previous row, dc in next 2 st, ch 2, sk 2 dc, 2 dc in the ch sp, dc in next 6 st, 2dc in next ch sp, ch 2* repeat from *to* until the end of your work, make a Tr in 3rd ch. Turn your work.
You will now Repeat Rows 18-24 7 more times, you will have 9 sunshine blocks on your shawl. You can make more or less of Rows 18-24, depending how long you wish to have your shawl. Just remember to complete the 7 rows before you end your shawl.
Do Not Fasten off, you will make a sc edging around your shawl.

Single Crochet Border
Along the sides of your rows you will work 3 sc in each rows edge st, if the row ends with a Tr or ch you will work 3 sc in each one, work like that all along the edges of your shawl, making a sc in each st along the bottom, then work up the other side of your rows, once you reach the top, make 3 sc in the corner then sc in the stitch as they present themselves, when you reach a ch2 make 2 sc in it, when you get to a ch5 make 4 sc in the ch otherwise sc in each st as it presents itself to you, when you reach the last corner you will make 3 sc sl st with the first sc you made. DO NOT FASTEN OFF. Put your work aside for now and work on your Pom Poms below.
NOTE: If you are not adding the Poms you can finish off your shawl now, fasten off and hide all loose tails. If you are adding the Poms continue below.
Pom Poms
You will need about 96-100 for the size I made
Using your Pom/Edging yarn make a slip knot,
Round 1: ch2, make 8sc in the 2nd ch from your hook, sl st with the first sc you made.
Round 2: ch1, 2sc in each st around. 16sc no need to sl st with the first sc, you can use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds if you need to.
Round 3: sc in each st aroundRound 4: sc2tog all around you will have 8 sc
Round 5: sc in each st, fasten off, leaving a long enough tail to sew the hole closed later. Lightly stuff your pom and with your tapestry needle sew the hole closed. Hide all loose tails.
Once you have your Poms made grab your shawl and hook, now lets begin our Border.
Pom Pom Border:
*ch3, grab a pom pom, sl st through any st of the pom, ch3, sk 3 sc from the edging and sc in the 4th st, * repeat from *to* around until you reach the first ch3, sl st with the base of the ch3 and fasten off your work. Hide all loose tails and you are done.
Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 







All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Friday, June 8, 2018

Easy Breezy Pompom sweater

Easy Breezy Pom Pom Crochet Sweater
By: Annoo Crochet Designs

Video Link: click here
Skill level: Intermediate
Gauge: 5 groups of 3dc by 9 rows= 4 inches
Size: Xtra Small/Small, (Medium/Large, Xtra Large/2X)Finished measurements without the Pom Pom border are approximately:Width: 45, (49, 61) inches
Length from shoulders to bottom edge: 26, (27, 27) inches

You will need: 
Main Color:
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4,( 4, 6) skeins of Yarn Art Angora Active (fingering weight/ #1 yarn) Color: 853
Fiber: 75% Acrylic/ 25% Mohair
Ball weight: 100g/3.52oz/546.80yds

Pom Pom/Border Color:
1 skein of Bergere De France Cotton Nature (fingering weight/ #1 yarn) 
Color: Platre
Fiber: 100% Cotton
Ball weight: 1.75oz/207yds

Crochet hook 3.25mm/D
Scissors
Tapestry needle
Small amounts of Polyfil (for the Poms) Stitch marker

Stitches Used:
Ch: chain
Dc: double crochet Sl St: slip stitch



Instructions: 
Front Panel:

With your hook and Main color yarn make a slip knot and chain 87 (102, 117)
Row 1: in the 3rd chain from hook make 2 dc, *sk 2 ch, 3dc in next ch* repeat from *to* across to the last 3 chains, sk 2 ch and in the last ch make 1 dc, turn your work. You will have 28 (33, 38) groups of 3dc with 1 dc at the end of your row.
Row 2: ch3, 2 dc in the same sp after the ch3 you just made, *sk 3dc, make 3dc in the space between the 2 groups of 3dc* repeat from *to* across, end your row with a dc at the top of the ch3 from the previous row, turn your work.
For XS/S sizes
Row 3-53: Repeat Row 2
Row 54: ch3, work 8 groups of 3dc, dc in the next sp and turn your work.
Row 55-56: Repeat Row 2 over the 8 groups of dc you did on Row 54. Fasten off your work at the end of Row 56.
For the other Shoulder seam, you will skip 12 groups of 3dc, in the space after the 12th group you will join your yarn.
Row 54: ch3, make 2dc in the same sp, *sk 3dc, make 3dc in the space between the 2 groups of 3dc* repeat from *to* across, end your row with a dc at the top of the ch3 from the previous row, turn your work.
Row 55-56: Repeat Row 2 over the 10 groups of dc you did in Row 54. Fasten off you work at the end of Row 56.
For sizes M/L, (XL/2X )
Rows 3-57: Repeat row 2.
Row 58:ch3, work 10, (12 ) groups of 3dc, dc in the next sp and turn your work.
Row 59-60: Repeat Row 2 over the 10 (12) groups of dc you did on Row 58. Fasten off your work at the end of Row 60.
For the other Shoulder seam, you will skip 13 (14) groups of 3dc, in the space after the 13th (14th) group you will join your yarn.
Row 58: ch3, make 2dc in the same sp, *sk 3dc, make 3dc in the space between the 2 groups of 3dc* repeat from *to* across, end your row with a dc at the top of the ch3 from the previous row, turn your work.
Row 59-60: Repeat Row 2 over the 10 groups of dc you did in Row 58. Fasten off you work at the end of Row 60.


Back Panel

Row 1: With your hook and Main color yarn make a slip knot and chain 102 in the 3rd chain from hook make 2 dc, *sk 2 ch, 3dc in next ch* repeat from *to* across to the last 3 chains, sk 2 ch and in the last ch make 1 dc, turn your work.
Row 2: ch3, 2 dc in the same sp after the ch3 you just made, *sk 3dc, make 3dc in the space between the 2 groups of 3dc* repeat from *to* across, end your row with a dc at the top of the ch3 from the previous row, turn your work.
Row3-56 (for sizes M/L, XL/2X Rows 3-60): Repeat Row 2, Do not Fasten off.
Shoulder Assembly

Place your work right sides together and line up the back and the front shoulder seam, you will take your yarn and slip stitch, matching stitch for stitch, across the shoulder seam until you reach the end of the 8, (10, 12) groups of dc from the Front Panels shoulders. Repeat the same for the other shoulder seam. Sew in all the loose tails.
Bell Sleeves (make 2)

Make a slip knot and ch 51 (57, 63)
Row 1: in the 3rd chain from hook make 2 dc, *sk 2 ch, 3dc in next ch* repeat from *to* across to the last 3 chains, sk 2 ch and in the last ch make 1 dc, turn your work.
Row 2: ch3, 2 dc in the same sp after the ch3 you just made, *sk 3dc, make 3dc in the space between the 2 groups of 3dc* repeat from *to* across, end your row with a dc at the top of the ch3 from the previous row, turn your work.
Row3-17: Repeat Row 2
Row 18: ch3, 2 dc in the sp right after the ch3 you just made, *sk 3dc, make 3dc in the space between the 2 groups of 3dc* repeat from *to* across making 8 (9, 10) groups of 3 dc, in the next space you will make 6dc, then repeat from *to* to the end of your row ending with a dc at the top of the ch3 from the previous row, turn your work.
Row 19: ch3, 2 dc in the same sp after the ch3 you just made, *sk 3dc, make 3dc in the space between the 2 groups of 3dc* repeat from *to* across until you reach the 6dc you made, skip 3 dc and in between the 3rd and the 4th make a group of 3dc, repeat from *to* to the end of your row ending with a dc at the top of the ch3 from the previous row, turn your work.
Rows 20: ch3, 2 dc in the sp right after the ch3 you just made, *sk 3dc, make 3dc in the space between the 2 groups of 3dc* repeat from *to* across until you reach the center of your sleeve where you made the increase in Row 18, in the next space you will make 6dc, then repeat from *to* to the end of your row ending with a dc at the top of the ch3 from the previous row, turn your work.
Rows 21-35 (sizes M/L, XL/2X Rows 21-37): Repeat Rows 19-20
At the end of Row 35 (37) fasten off and make your second sleeve.
If you would like you can opt out of having your sleeves a bell shape by just repeating Row 2 until you reach Row 35(37). Your sleeve will not be fitting to the arm but will be a straight loose fitted sleeve.


Now it is time to Assemble your sleeves to your body,

 you will lay your pieces wrong side facing you, the middle of your sleeves should line up with the seam of the shoulders (see pic below)
You will now slip stitch your sleeves to the body of your sweater like you did for the shoulder seam, matching stitch for stitch, repeat for the other sleeve.
Assemble Sides and Sleeve seams

with your work still facing the wrong side to you, you will fold the sweater in half lining up the sleeves and the side seams, you will now slip stitch together matching stitch for stitch starting at the sleeve, working your way up to the armhole and then down the side seam to the bottom edge of your sweater, Repeat for the other side and hide all loose tails. Be sure to turn your work right side out when you are done.
You can leave your sweater as is or finish it off with an edging as follows.
Pom Pom and Picot Edging (for all sizes): 

Collar:

With your Edging and Pom color yarn starting at the Collar of your sweater join your yarn to any stitch from the back of your collar with a sl st,
Round 1: ch1, sc in the same sp, sc around the collar, picking up 2 stitches along the side rows and 1 sc in each st as they present themselves to you, sl st with the first sc you made.
Round 2: ch1, sc in the same sp, ch3, sl st with the sc (picot made), *sc in the next 2 st, ch3 sl st with the sc, * Repeat from *to* around until you reach the first sc you made, sl st with it and fasten off your work, hide all loose tails.
Sleeve Edging:
Join your yarn at the seam of your sleeve and sc in each st around for the first round sl st with the first sc.
You will repeat Round 2 of the Collar. Repeat for the other sleeve.

Pom Pom Border:

You will need to make 28-30 Poms in total.
Using your Pom/Edging yarn make a slip knot,Round 1: ch2, make 8sc in the 2nd ch from your hook, sl st with the first sc you made.
Round 2: ch1, 2sc in each st around. 16sc no need to sl st with the first sc, you can use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of your rounds if you need to.
Round 3: sc in each st aroundRound 4: sc2tog all around you will have 8 scRound 5: sc in each st, fasten off, leaving a long enough tail to sew the hole closed later. Lightly stuff your pom and with your tapestry needle sew the hole closed. Hide all loose tails.
Bottom Edge:
Round 1: 
Join your Pom Pom color yarn at the side seam, join with a sl st and sc in the same st, sc in
each of the 2 ch and sc in the bottom of the 3dc, sl st with the first sc you made.Round 2: ch1, sc in each st around
Round 3: *ch7, grab a pom pom, sl st through any st of the pom, ch7, sk 6 sc from the edging and sl st in the 7th st, * repeat from *to* around until you reach the first ch7, sl st at the base of the first ch7 and fasten off your work. Hide all loose tails and you are done.

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 







All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Thursday, May 17, 2018

Easy Crochet Ombre Handbag

Easy Crochet Ombre Handbag

By: Annoo Crochet Designs
Video Link:click here
Skill level: Intermediate
Gauge: Approximately 12 rows of the pattern by 12 st= 4 inches
Finished Size: About 16 inches tall by 13 inches wide
You will need:
Cascade Ultra Pima Cotton yarn (dk weight #3) Color: 2 skeins in (3718) Natural
1 Skein in (3835) White Asparagus 1 skein in (3834) Reed
1 Skein in (3801) Silver
1 Skein in (3729) Gray
page1image5859936
Fiber: 100% Pima Cotton
Ball weight: 100g/220yds Crochet hooks 2.75mm/C, 3.25mm/D Scissors
Tapestry needle
Leather for the bottom
Leather Punch
Compass to mark the leather
Ruler and Marker

Handles click here
2 D rings click here
Stitches Used:
Ch: chain
Sc: single crochet
Dc: double crochet
Sl st: slip stitch
St: stitch
V stitch: dc, ch1, dc in the same space

Instructions:
With your compass and your leather (on the side that will be the inside of your Bag) you will mark a 13 inch circle. Once you have the circle marked out you will then cut out your circle.

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Once your circle is cut you will now take your ruler and marker and mark every 1⁄2 inch or so, making sure that you have a multiple of 3 dots around the leather circle.
With your Leather punch you will punch out your dots about 1⁄2 inch in from the edge.

Body of the Bag:
Now you will work the body of the bag with your main color yarn (natural).
Round 1: Take your smaller hook and yarn and put it in one of the holes on your leather circle, wrap your yarn around your hook and pass the yarn through the hole, make a ch, in the next hole you will make a sc, repeat that around for each hole make a sc in each hole, making sure that you dont make your sc too tight, sl st with the first sc you made.
Round 2: (switch to larger hook) ch1, sc in the same st, *ch2, sk 2 st, sc in the 3rd * repeat from *to* around ending with a ch2, sl st with the first sc you made.
Grab your next color for your bag (White Asparagus)
Round 3: Join your color (Do not fasten off the Cream Color you will pick up again in the next round), *in the ch2 sp make 3dc in it, ch1* repeat from *to* around sl st with the first dc, join your Cream yarn leaving the (White Asparagus) in the back of your work you will pick it up in the next round.
Round 4: you will be working in the sc from Round 2

In that first sc from Round 2 you will make (dc, ch1, dc)

*Find the next sc from round 2 make a V stitch (dc, ch1, dc)* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the top of the first dc.
Round 5: picking up your (White Asparagus) yarn again, sl st in the first ch1 sp of the V stitch from Round 4, ch3(counts as first dc), make 2 more dc in the same sp, ch1, *in next ch1 sp of the V stitch make 3dc, ch1* repeat *to* around sl st with the first dc.
Round 6: Drop the White Asparagus yarn and pick up the Cream yarn, you will now work your new stitches into the space between the V stitches of Round 4

In that space you will make a V stitch (dc, ch1, dc), you will repeat that all around making a V stitch in the space between V stitches from Round 4, sl st with the first dc.
Rounds 7-14: You will repeat Rounds 5 and 6
At the end of Round 14 fasten off the White Asparagus yarn, keeping the Cream color attached, you will

use this throughout the bag.
For the next section you will Join your Reed color yarn and continue in pattern.
Rounds 15-26: Repeat Rounds 5 and 6, at the end of Round 26 fasten off the Reed yarn.
You will now Join your Silver yarn and continue in pattern again as follows:
Rounds 27-38: Repeat Rounds 5 and 6, at the end of Round 38 fasten off the Silver yarn.
You will now join your last color Gray and continue in pattern:
Rounds 39-50: Repeat Rounds 5 and 6, You will end your bag with a round of Cream V stitches. At the end of Round 50 fasten off the Gray and Cream yarn and hide all loose tails.
Adding the Hardware:
Fold your bag in half and at the 2 last rows of your Silver yarn you will attach your D rings. You can sew them or Crochet them on like I have.

With your Silver yarn and larger hook, you will pass your hook through the stitch of the bag then under the D ring, grab the yarn with the hook, and draw through the stitch, you will then ch1, remember to work around the st and the Ring, make 2 sc in each st from Rounds 36-38, once you have about 12 st you are going to fasten off.

Sew in all the loose tails in the back of your work. Repeat this again for the other D ring on the other side of your bag.
You can now line your bag, I had my amazing mother in law line mine, she put something stiff at the bottom, and put the fabric up to the last Round of the Silver color. Its best to have it lined as things can fall out of our crochet projects. Of course, if you cant line yours, use cosmetic bags with zippers to hold your little items.
Attach the Leather Drawstring Tassel:
Pass one end through your bag about every 2 V stitches at the Rounds where the Gray and Silver meet. Attach the tassel, add your Straps and you are done with your Beautiful Bag.
Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 







All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Girl’s Spring Wavy Little Dress

Girl’s Spring Wavy Little Dress




By: Annoo Crochet Designs
Video Link:click here
Skill level: Intermediate
Gauge: 16dc x 9 rows = 4 inches
I crochet on the looser side, you may need to go up in hook size to meet the gauge.

Size: Child sizes 2-3 (4-5, 6-7)
Infant sizes 0-3, (6-9, 12) months, written instructions can be found at the end of the pattern for the Child sizes.
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You will need:
You can sub any DK/Sports Weight yarn in your color choices I used: 5 (5, 6) skeins of Katia Cotton Ombre Yarn (dk/sport weight yarn #3)
Color: Greens
Fiber: 100% Cotton
Ball weight:150g/642yd (each skein is about 25g)

Crochet hook 2.75mm /C Scissors
Tapestry needle
Stitch markers Measuring Tape

Tip:
For Choosing yarns:
Don’t want to use or can’t find Katia Cotton Ombre you can sub another dk/sports weight yarn as longas it fits the gauge. Just choose 6 colors from the same family from light to dark, I used 5 of the 6 colors for the size 4-5 dress, the 6th color for the border edge of the neck.
On Changing Colors: To join your new colors through the skirt part of the pattern when instructed try doing so in the last st of the round like so:
Make your last sc, but don’t yo through the 2 loops to close the stitch, join your new color yarn by making a loop and grabbing it with your hook, pull it through the 2 loops to close the stitch. Now you are
all set to continue with the new color. Secure the old color and the new color then continue with the pattern.
Instructions:
With your hook and lightest color yarn make a slip knot and chain 92, (100, 108), sl st with the first ch, making sure not to twist your chain
Round 1: ch3 (counts as dc), dc in each ch around, do not join you will work in the round, using a stitch marker place it on the first st of the next round, be sure to move it up as you go. 92, (100, 108) dc in total.
Round 2: dc in each st around. 92, (100, 108) dc in total
Repeat Round 2 until your top measures 2 3⁄4 (3 1⁄4 , 4) inches, At the end of the last round you will make a

hdc in the next st and sl st in the next one, then Fasten off.
Shoulder straps:

Put your work so Row 1 is on the top, this is where you will build your shoulders from.
Then counting at the right side of your work count 8 (9, 9) st in, you will join your lightest color yarn in the 9th (10th,10th)st.
Row 1: ch3 (counts as dc), dc in the next 5 (7, 7) st, 6 (8, 8) dc total. Turn your workRow 2: ch3 (counts as dc) dc in the next 5 (7, 7) dc, 6 (8, 8) dc total. Turn your work.
Repeat row 2 until your work measures 9 1⁄2 (9 1⁄2, 10) inches measuring from Row 1 of your strap,

You will now turn your work inside out, so the wrong side is facing you. You will sl st the strap to the back of your top. Count 16 (18, 18) dc from the right side of your strap, in the 17(19th ,19th) st you will join your strap, sl st along the next 6, (8, 8) st of the strap and body of your dress, matching st for st. Once your strap is attached you will fasten off, turn your work right side to.
You will want to repeat all the steps of the shoulder strap for the second strap.
Skirt
For Sizes 2/3 you will work Rounds 1-33 you will only use 4 of the 6 colors of Katia Cotton Ombre
For Sizes 4/5 you will work Rounds 1-43, you will only use 5 of the 6 colors of the Katia Cotton Ombre
For Sizes 6/7 you will work Rounds 1-53, you will use all 6 colors of the Katia Cotton Ombre
You can choose to change your colors at any point to make your own Ombre effect, just make sure to follow the instruction written for the rounds only changing were you will add your new color.
Put your work with the straps facing down. With your next darkest color you will want to join your yarn at one of the stitches at the side of your work.
The Puff Shell pattern is worked in a multiple of 18, you will need to increase by 34,(44, 54) st, you can do this over the next 3 rows or in the first row, either way be sure to increase evenly. You will sc in the BLO throughout the pattern unless otherwise stated.
Round 1: sc in each st around, making your increases as you go.
Place st maker in the first st of the new round be sure to move it up as you go.

Round 2-3: repeat round 1, if you made all your increases in Round 1 then work these 2 rounds even you will have 126, (144, 162) sc.
Round 4: *ch2, sk 6st, in the 7th st (working in both loops for this st) make dc in that st (ch1, dc)6 times, (you will have 7dc with a ch1 in between for your fan), ch2, sk 6, in the next 5 st make a sc in the BLO*, repeat from *to* around
Round 5: *ch2, in the first ch1 sp make a puff st (see Stitches Used above for help), ch1, (make a puff stitch in the next ch1 sp, ch1) 4 times, in the last ch1 sp make a puff stitch (you will have 6 puff stitches in total) , ch2, sk the first sc from previous round, sc in the next 3 st in the BLO,* repeat from *to* around
Round 6: in the ch2 from the previous round make 2sc, sc in the top of the puff and in between the ch sp, sc in each of the 3 sc (BLO), repeat that around until you reach the stitch marker or the first sc you made, You will have 126, (144, 162) sc.
Round 7-8: (BLO) sc in each st around.
The next 2 rounds we will make the puff shell pattern again, but this time it will alternate, so you will

have a Shell in between the Puff Shell from the previous round of Shells.

Round 9: ch 2, sk 6st, in the next 5 st make a sc in the BLO (if doing this correctly your sc will line up with the puff shell pattern from the previous rounds), ch2, sk 6 st, in the 7th st (working in both loops for
this st) make dc in that st (ch1, dc)6 times, (you will have 7dc with a ch1 in between for your fan)*, repeat from *to* around
Round 10: ch2, sk the first sc from the previous round, sc in the BLO over the next 3 st, ch2, in the first ch1 sp make a puff st (see Stitches Used above for help), ch1, (make a puff stitch in the next ch1 sp, ch1) 4 times, in the last ch1 sp make a puff stitch (you will have 6 puff stitches in total)
Round 11: in the ch2 from the previous round make 2sc, sc in each of the 3 sc (BLO), sc in the top of the puff and in between the ch sp, repeat that around until you reach 1 st before the stitch marker, make a sc in the last st, but before you finish yarning over and pulling through the loops to close off the stitch, join your next color yarn by grabbing the yarn making a loop and pulling through the 2 loops on your hook closing your st and you now have joined your yarn, fasten off the previous color and secure the 2, You will have 126, (144, 162) sc.
Round 12-13: (BLO) sc in each st around.
As you go you will want to make sure that the Puff shell pattern alternates with the previous one in the

round below.
Round 14: repeat Round 4 with the exception that the after the first ch 2 you will not skip 6 st, you will need to find the 3sc from the previous puff stitch round and follow up the middle st, that will be your first fan, then follow the pattern as written after the first fan (7dc with ch1 in between) .
Rounds 25-21: repeat Rounds 5-11
Rounds 22-23: 
Repeat Rounds 12-13
Rounds 24-31: 
Repeat Rounds 14-21
Rounds 32-33: 
Repeat Rounds 12-13 (for size 2/3 fasten off here and hide all loose tails)Rounds 32-41: Repeat Rounds 14-21
Rounds 42-43: Repeat Rounds 12-13 (for size 4/5 fasten off here and hide all loose tails)Rounds 44-51: Repeat Rounds 14-21
Rounds 52-53: 
Repeat Rounds 12-13 (for size 6/7 fasten off here and hide all loose tails)
If you wish for any of the sizes you can make it longer by repeating rounds 14-21 as many times as you need just remember to end with 3 rows of sc. Same if you want to make it shorter for a top maybe, just remember to end with 3 rows of sc.
For all sizes:
Neck and Shoulder Border:
with your hook and of the color yarns you choose join your yarn to any of the stitch at the back of the neck edge, ch1, you will sc in the top of the dc, and in the side of the rows of the strap you will make 2 sc in each row along the shoulder, sc in each dc in the front of your neck and 2sc in the dc rows along the other strap, sc in each st until you reach the first sc you made, sl st with it and fasten off.
Underarm and Shoulder Border:
With your hook and the same yarn you used for the neck edging join your yarn to any st, ch1, sc in each of the dc as they present themselves, and 2sc in each of the dc rows of the strap, sc until you reach the first sc you made, sl st with it and fasten off, repeat the same thing for the other Armhole opening, fasten off and hide all loose tails.
Flower (for all sizes)
With the any of the lighter yarns and your hook make a magic circle
Round 1: ch3 (counts as dc), make 11dc in the magic circle, pull on the tail of the magic circle to close it, sl st with the ch3, fasten off leaving a tail long enough to sew to the dress later.
Join your next darkest yarn color in any st but in the BLO, ch1

Round 2: *in the next st make (sc, hdc, 4dc, hdc, sc) sl st in the next st* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the first st you made. Fasten off. You will have 6 group of petals. Fasten off and Hide all but the tail you left for sewing to your dress. You will attach your flower to either front Shoulder strap.
Infant Pattern:
Sizes 0-3, (6-9, 12) monthsYou will need:You can sub any DK/Sports Weight yarn in your color choices I used: 5 (5, 6) skeins of Katia Cotton Ombre Yarn (dk/sport weight yarn #3)
Color: Greens Fiber: 100% Cotton
Ball weight:150g/642yd (each skein is about 25g) Crochet hook 2.75mm /C
Scissors Tapestry needle Stitch markers Measuring Tape
Stitches Used:
Sc: single crochet
Hdc: Half double crochet Dc: double crochet
Ch: chain
BLO: Back Loops Only YO: Yarn Over

Puff Stitch: yo, insert hook in ch sp, yo and pull through sp, repeat that 3 more times you will have 9 loops on your hook (keeping a loose tension as you will need to pull your yarn through 8 loops), YO and pull through 8 of the loops (you will have 2 loops left) Yo and pull through the 2 loops.
Tip:
For Choosing yarns:
Don’t want to use or can’t find Katia Cotton Ombre you can sub another dk/sports weight yarn as longas it fits the gauge. Just choose 6 colors from the same family from light to dark, I used 5 of the 6 colors for the size 4-5 dress, the 6th color for the border edge of the neck.
On Changing Colors: To join your new colors through the skirt part of the pattern when instructed try doing so in the last st of the round like so:
Make your last sc, but don’t yo through the 2 loops to close the stitch, join your new color yarn bymaking a loop and grabbing it with your hook, pull it through the 2 loops to close the stitch. Now you are all set to continue with the new color. Secure the old color and the new color then continue with the pattern.
Instructions:
With your hook and lightest color yarn make a slip knot and chain 68, (76, 80), sl st with the first ch, making sure not to twist your chain
Round 1: ch3 (counts as dc), dc in each ch around, do not join you will work in the round, using a stitch marker place it on the first st of the next round, be sure to move it up as you go. 68, (76, 80) dc in total.
Round 2: dc in each st around. 68, (76, 80) dc in total
Repeat Round 2 until your top measures 2 1⁄4 (2 3⁄4, 2 3⁄4) inches, At the end of the last round you will make

a hdc in the next st and sl st in the next one, then Fasten off.
Shoulder straps:

Put your work so Row 1 is on the top, this is where you will build your shoulders from.
Then counting at the right side of your work count 5 (6, 6) st in, you will join your lightest color yarn in the 6 (7,7) st.
Row 1: ch3 (counts as dc), dc in the next 4 (5, 5) st, 5 (6, 6) dc total. Turn your workRow 2: ch3 (counts as dc) dc in the next 4 (5, 5) dc, 5 (6, 6) dc total. Turn your work.
Repeat row 2 until your work measures 6 1⁄2 (7, 7 1⁄2) inches measuring from Row 1 of your strap,

You will now turn your work inside out, so the wrong side is facing you. You will sl st the strap to the back of your top. Count 10 (12, 12) dc from the right side of your strap, in the 11th (13th ,13th) st you will join your strap, sl st along the next 5 (6, 6) st of the strap and body of your dress, matching st for st. Once your strap is attached you will fasten off, turn your work right side to.
You will want to repeat all the steps of the shoulder strap for the second strap.
Skirt
For Sizes 0-3 you will work Rounds 1-23 you will only use 4 of the 6 colors of Katia Cotton Ombre
For Sizes 6-9 you will work Rounds 1-33, you will only use 5 of the 6 colors of the Katia Cotton Ombre
For Sizes 12 you will work Rounds 1-43, you will use all of the 6 colors of the Katia Cotton Ombre
You can choose to change your colors at any point to make your own Ombre effect, just make sure to follow the instruction written for the rounds only changing were you will add your new color.
Put your work with the straps facing down. With your next darkest color you will want to join your yarn at one of the stitches at the side of your work.
The Puff Shell pattern is worked in a multiple of 18, you will need to increase by 22, (32, 28) st, you will increase all your stitches for Infant sizes in the first round. You will sc in the BLO throughout the pattern unless otherwise stated.
Round 1: sc in each st around, increasing 22, (32, 28) st evenly as you go. You will have 90 (108, 108) sc in total.
Place st maker in the first st of the new round be sure to move it up as you go.
Round 2-3: sc in each st around
Round 4: *ch2, sk 6st, in the 7th st (working in both loops for this st) make dc in that st (ch1, dc)6 times, (you will have 7dc with a ch1 in between for your fan), ch2, sk 6, in the next 5 st make a sc in the BLO*, repeat from *to* around
Round 5: *ch2, in the first ch1 sp make a puff st (see Stitches Used above for help), ch1, (make a puff stitch in the next ch1 sp, ch1) 4 times, in the last ch1 sp make a puff stitch (you will have 6 puff stitches in total) , ch2, sk the first sc from previous round, sc in the next 3 st in the BLO,* repeat from *to* around
Round 6: in the ch2 from the previous round make 2sc, sc in the top of the puff and in between the ch sp, sc in each of the 3 sc (BLO), repeat that around until you reach the stitch marker or the first sc you made, You will have 90 (108, 108) sc.
Round 7-8: (BLO) sc in each st around.
The next 2 rounds we will make the puff shell pattern again, but this time it will alternate, so you will

have a Shell in between the Puff Shell from the previous round of Shells.

Round 9: ch 2, sk 6st, in the next 5 st make a sc in the BLO (if doing this correctly your sc will line up with the puff shell pattern from the previous rounds), ch2, sk 6 st, in the 7th st (working in both loops for this st) make dc in that st (ch1, dc)6 times, (you will have 7dc with a ch1 in between for your fan)*, repeat from *to* around
Round 10: ch2, sk the first sc from the previous round, sc in the BLO over the next 3 st, ch2, in the first ch1 sp make a puff st (see Stitches Used above for help), ch1, (make a puff stitch in the next ch1 sp, ch1) 4 times, in the last ch1 sp make a puff stitch (you will have 6 puff stitches in total)
Round 11: in the ch2 from the previous round make 2sc, sc in each of the 3 sc (BLO), sc in the top of the puff and in between the ch sp, repeat that around until you reach 1 st before the stitch marker, make a sc in the last st, but before you finish yarning over and pulling through the loops to close off the stitch, join your next color yarn by grabbing the yarn making a loop and pulling through the 2 loops on your hook closing your st and you now have joined your yarn, fasten off the previous color and secure the 2, You will have 90 (108, 108) sc.
Round 12-13: (BLO) sc in each st around.
As you go you will want to make sure that the Puff shell pattern alternates with the previous one in the

round below.
Round 14: repeat Round 4 with the exception that the after the first ch 2 you will not skip 6 st, you will need to find the 3sc from the previous puff stitch round and follow up the middle st, that will be your first fan, then follow the pattern as written after the first fan (7dc with ch1 in between) .
Rounds 25-21: repeat Rounds 5-11
Rounds 22-23: 
Repeat Rounds 12-13 (for size 0-3 months fasten off here and hide all loose tails)Rounds 24-31: Repeat Rounds 14-21
Rounds 32-33: 
Repeat Rounds 12-13 (for size 6-9 months fasten off here and hide all loose tails)Rounds 32-41: Repeat Rounds 14-21
Rounds 42-43: 
Repeat Rounds 12-13 (for size 12 months fasten off here and hide all loose tails)
If you wish for any of the sizes you can make it longer by repeating rounds 14-21 as many times as you need just remember to end with 3 rows of sc. Same if you want to make it shorter for a top maybe, just remember to end with 3 rows of sc.
For all sizes:
Neck and Shoulder Border:
with your hook and of the color yarns you choose join your yarn to any of the stitch at the back of the neck edge, ch1, you will sc in the top of the dc, and in the side of the rows of the strap you will make 2 sc in each row along the shoulder, sc in each dc in the front of your neck and 2sc in the dc rows along the other strap, sc in each st until you reach the first sc you made, sl st with it and fasten off.
Underarm and Shoulder Border:
With your hook and the same yarn you used for the neck edging join your yarn to any st, ch1, sc in each of the dc as they present themselves, and 2sc in each of the dc rows of the strap, sc until you reach the first sc you made, sl st with it and fasten off, repeat the same thing for the other Armhole opening, fasten off and hide all loose tails.
Flower (for all sizes)
With the any of the lighter yarns and your hook make a magic circle
Round 1: ch3 (counts as dc), make 11dc in the magic circle, pull on the tail of the magic circle to close it, sl st with the ch3, fasten off leaving a tail long enough to sew to the dress later.
Join your next darkest yarn color in any st but in the BLO, ch1

Round 2: *in the next st make (sc, hdc, 4dc, hdc, sc) sl st in the next st* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the first st you made. Fasten off. You will have 6 group of petals. Fasten off and Hide all but the tail you left for sewing to your dress. You will attach your flower to either front Shoulder strap.
Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 







All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo