Wednesday, August 8, 2018

Colorado Crochet Maxi Skirt


page5image2945072page5image2945296Colorado Crochet Maxi Skirt
By: Annoo Crochet Designs



Video Link: click here
Skill level: Intermediate
Gauge: 18 dc x 8 rows= 4 inches
Size: S/M, M/ L, XL
You will need:
For Sizes S/M & M/L:
1 skein (500g) Wolltraum My Melody (4ply #1-2 yarn)

Color: Café Oriental (Brick, Cognac, Mocha are the 3 colors in this skein) Fiber: 50% Cotton, 50% Acrylic
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Ball weight: 500g/17.60oz/2077yds For Size XL:
1 skein (500g) Wolltraum My Melody (4ply #1-2 yarn)
Color: Café Oriental (Brick, Cognac, Mocha are the 3 colors in this skein) Fiber: 50% Cotton, 50% Acrylic
Ball weight: 500g/17.60oz/2077yds

1 skein (200g) Wolltraum UniColor (4ply #1-2 yarn) Color: Brick
Fiber: 50% Cotton, 50% Acrylic
Ball weight: 500g/7oz/830yds Crochet Hook 3.25mm/D
Tapestry Needle Scissors
Stitch Markers

*Note if you choose to make the XL size in a different colorway you will want to choose your UniColor to match your My Melody color. My Melody is made up of 3 colorways, you will want to pick the color way that will be at the bottom of your skirt, in my case it was the Brick color in the Café Oriental Skein so the XLarge size will use a skein of the Unicolor in Brick.
Stitches Used:
Ch: Chain
Sl st: slip stitch
Sc: Single Crochet Dc: Double Crochet

Instructions:
This pattern is written for Sizes S-XL, if you need your size to be larger no worries, just remember you will need more yarn for larger sizes. You will need a multiple of 8 for the band, (IE; for the small 8 x 18=144 chains/dc) once you achieve the amount of chains you will need you will work the band rounds the same as instructed below, just add a few more rounds to yours if you feel its not long enough. After you get your band done you will work the pattern as instructed until you reach the length you desire.
With your yarn and hook make a chain of 144 (160, 176) join with the first ch to make a circle, making sure not to twist the chain.
The Band:
Round 1: 
ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each ch around, sl st with the top of the ch3. You will have 144
(160, 176) dc
Round 2-4: Ch1 (counts as first dc), dc in each st around, sl st with the top of the ch3. You will have 144 (160, 176) dc
If you feel you need less or more rows for your band then keep working till you reach the desired width.



The Pattern of the Skirt: For all sizes:
Round 5: Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc, ch1, 2dc in the same st as the ch3, *ch3, sk 3st, in next st make (2dc, ch2, 2dc)* repeat from *to* around ending with a ch3, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Round 6-21: sl st to the ch1 sp, ch3 (counts as first dc), dc, ch1, 2dc in the same st as the ch3, *ch3, sk 3st, in next st make (2dc, ch2, 2dc)* repeat from *to* around ending with a ch3, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Now you will work on the part of the pattern to make it flare out and begin the Flower (pineapple stitch)

Round 22: sl st your way to the first ch1 sp, ch3 (counts as first dc), 6 more dc in same sp, total of 7dc, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc),* ch3, in next ch1 sp make 7dc, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc * repeat from *to* around, ch3, sl st with the top of the ch3 (first dc)
Round 23: ch4 (counts as first dc, ch1), (dc in next st, ch1) 5 times, dc in last st, ch3, in the next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc) *ch3, sk to the 7dc, in the first dc make dc, ch1, (dc in next st, ch1) 5 times, dc in last st, ch3, in the next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc)* repeat from *to* around, ch3. You will not join, from now on out you will work in the round without joining. Here is where you will need your stitch marker.
Round 24: in between the first dc and ch1 make a sc (place your stitch marker on the sc to mark the beginning of the round), [ch3, sc in next ch1 sp] 5 times, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch3 *in between the first dc and ch1 make a [ch3, sc in next ch1 sp] 5 times, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch3* repeat from *to* around Ending your round with a 2dc, ch1, 2dc. Instead of ending this round with a ch3, you will begin your next round with it.
Remember to bring up your stitch marker as you work a new round.
Round 25: * ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 sp) 4 times, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc) * repeat from *to* around
Round 26: *ch3, sc in the first ch3, (ch3, sc in next ch3 sp) 3 times, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc, ch1, 2dc) * repeat from *to* around
Round 27: *ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 sp) 2 times, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch3 in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc)* repeat from *to* around
Round 28: *ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, ch3, sc in next ch3 sp, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch2, in ch3 sp make (dc, ch1, dc), ch2, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc)* repeat from *to* around
Round 29: *ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch2, in next ch 1 sp make 7dc, ch2, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc) * repeat from *to* around

Round 30: *ch1, sk the sc, in the ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc) ch2, sk to the 7dc, in the first dc make dc, ch1, (dc in next st, ch1) 5 times, dc in last st, ch2, in the next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc)* repeat from *to* around until you get to the last 7dc, you will work dc, ch1 6 times and make a dc in last dc of the ch7, you will end your round here.
Round 31: *ch3, in the ch1 sp make 2dc, ch3, in next ch1 sp make 2dc, ch3, sc in the first ch1 sp after the dc (ch3, sc in next ch 1 sp) 5 times* repeat from *to* around
Round 32: *ch3, sk to the ch3 between the 2 dc, in that ch3 make (2dc, ch1, 2dc, ch1, 2dc),
ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 sp) 4 times,* repeat from *to* around

Round 33: *ch3, in first ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 sp) 3 times* repeat from *to* around
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Round 34: *ch3, in first ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch2, in the ch3 from previous round make dc, ch1, dc, ch2, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 sp) 2 times* repeat from *to* around
Round 35: *ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc) ch2, sk to next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc) ch2, sk to next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, ch3, sc in next ch3 sp* repeat from *to* around
Round 36: *ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch2, in next ch1 sp make 7dc, ch2, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc* repeat from *to* around.
Round 37: *ch2, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch2, sk to the first of the 7dc make a dc, ch1, (dc, ch1) 5 times, dc in the last dc, ch2, in the next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch1, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc)* repeat from *to* around
Round 38: *ch3, sc in the first ch1 sp after the dc (ch3, sc in next ch 1 sp) 5 times, ch3, in the ch1 sp make 2dc, ch3, in next ch1 sp make 2dc* repeat from *to* around
Round 39*ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 sp) 4 times, ch3, sk to the ch3 between the 2 dc, in that ch3 make (2dc, ch1, 2dc, ch1, 2dc) ,* repeat from *to* around

Round 40: * ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 sp) 3 times, ch3, in first ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), * repeat from *to* around
Round 41: *ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 sp) 2 times, ch3, in first ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch2, in the ch3 from previous round make dc, ch1, dc, ch2, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), * repeat from *to* around
Round 42: *ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, ch3, sc in next ch3 sp, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc) ch2, sk to next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc) ch2, sk to next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), * repeat from *to* around
Round 43: * ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), ch2, in next ch1 sp make 7dc, ch2, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), * repeat from *to* around.
page6image2987520
Repeat Rounds 30-43 until you reach the length you desire. If you choose to leave it as is you will sl st to the next st and fasten off.
Or
Add a border like I did for mine to give it the points of the Flower (Pineapple stitch). If you choose to make yours using the same border as I did you will need to end your work on Round 39 this should be a few inches shorter than your desired length.
Once you’ve reached the end of Round 39 you will Fasten off.
Border Rounds:
With your hook join your yarn to the second of the ch1 spaces of the 2dc, ch1, 2dc, ch1, 2dc clusters right before the Flower (Pineapple stitch),

Row 1: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc, ch1, 2dc in the same sp, ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp after the sc from previous row make a sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 sp) 3 times, ch3, in first ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), Turn your work.
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Row 2: sl st to the ch1 sp, after the sc from previous ch1, 2dc), turn your work.
Row 3: sl st to the ch1 sp, after the sc from previous turn your work.
Row 4: sl st to the ch1 sp, after the sc from previous
ch3 (counts as first dc) dc, ch1, 2dc in the same sp, ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp row make a sc, (ch3, sc in next ch3 sp) 2 times, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc,
page5image2945072page5image2945296ch3 (counts as first dc) dc, ch1, 2dc in the same sp, ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp row make a sc, ch3, sc in next ch3 sp, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc),
ch3 (counts as first dc) dc, ch1, 2dc in the same sp, ch3, sk to the first ch3 sp row make a sc, ch3, in next ch1 sp make (2dc, ch1, 2dc), turn your work.
Row 5: sl st to the ch1 sp, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) Turn your work
ch3 (counts as first dc), dc ch1, 2dc in same sp, ch1, sk to the next ch1, make
Row 6: sl st the the first ch1 sp, ch3 (counts as first dc) dc in same sp, ch1, in the next ch1 sp make 2dc, fasten off.
You will repeat Rows 1-6 for each Flower (Pineapple stitch), joining your yarn to the free ch1 sp at the of the 2dc, ch1, 2dc, ch1, 2dc cluster.
Once you are done you will hide all loose tails and that is it my Friends you are done with this Gorgeous Colorado Crochet Maxi Skirt!!!


Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 









All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo



Crochet Jumpsuit inspired by Olivia Palermo

Crochet Jumpsuit inspired by Olivia Palermo
By: Annoo Crochet Designs



Video Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CteX8Pju64I
Skill level: Intermediate/ExpertGauge: Granny square 3 1⁄4 inches*I tend to crochet loosely you may need to go up in hook size to get your gauge
page1image1663552
Size: S/M (M/L, L/XL)
You will need:
Yarn Art Summer (Fine-sport weight #2)
8 (9, 10) Skeins Main Color (MC): 53 Dark Blue
1 (2, 2) skein Contrasting Color A (CCA): 50 Powder Blue 1 (2, 2) skein Contrasting Color B (CCB): 22 Cream Fiber: 70% Cotton, 30% Viscose
Ball weight: 350m/382yds

Crochet hook 2.75mm /C Tapestry needle
Scissors
Stitch Marker

Zipper approximately 16 inches long or 9-10 Buttons for the back closure
Stitches Used:
Sl st: slip stitch
Sc: single crochet Dc: double crochet Ch: chain

Instructions:
With your MC yarn make a magic circle,
Round 1: ch3 (counts as first dc), 2dc in magic circle, ch1, (3dc, ch1 in magic circle) 3 times, sl st with the top of the ch3 you made. You will have 4 groups of 3 dc separated by a ch1. Pull the end yarn of your magic circle to tighten the hole and secure it closed.
You will now join your next color yarn but do not fasten off your MC.
Round 2: with your CCB yarn join to the MC, ch3 (counts as first dc), make 2dc, ch1, 3dc in the same sp, (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in the next ch sp 3 times, sl st with the top of the ch3, fasten off the CCB yarn.
Round 3: with your CCA yarn join to any of spaces between the corners,

Ch3 (counts as first dc) 2dc in same sp, in the next ch1 sp of the corner make (3dc, ch1, 3dc), *in the next sp between the corner make 3dc, in the ch 1 sp of the corner make (3dc, ch1, 3dc)* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the top of the ch3, fasten off your yarn.

Round 4: With your MC carry it up (remember you didnt fasten it off after round 1), join it in the first sp after the corner, ch3, 2dc in the same, skip 3dc, in the sp make 3dc, in the corner ch 1 sp make (3dc, ch1, 3dc), * (skip 3dc, in the sp make 3dc) 2 times, in the corner ch 1 sp make (3dc, ch1, 3dc),* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the top of the ch3. Fasten off your yarn.
Hide all loose tails, Make 66 (90, 105) grannies
Assemble the Grannies
You will want to either sl st your work together or use a tapestry needle and sew them together. You will join them wrong side facing you. Using your MC yarn for the joining of the squares.
For the front:

You will join 30 (42, 49) grannies in a 5x6 (7x6, 7x7) block, 5 (6,7) grannies for the horizontal and 6 (6, 7) for the vertical, a total of 30 (42, 49) grannies will be attached for the front.
For the Back:

You will join 15 (20, 24) grannies in a 3x5 (4x5, 4x6) block, 3 (4, 4) for the horizontal and 5 (5, 6) for the vertical. Repeat again for the second back piece.
After you complete the 3x5 (4x5, 4x6) blocks you will take the remaining 6 (8, 8) grannies and join them together making a row of 1x6 (1x8, 1x8).
You will now join that 1x6 (1x8, 1x8) row to the 3x5 (4x5, 4x6) blocks, take your first back panel and line the 3 (4, 4) from the 3x5 (4x5, 4x6) block with 3 (4, 4) of the 1x6, (1x8, 1x8) assemble them together then add the second back panel the same way. You will be leaving an opening of 5 (5, 6) grannies for the zipper that you will add later.
Shoulder and Neck edge
Waist Edge
Shoulder Seam:
Lay your front so right side is facing you and the 5 (7, 7) squares are horizontal and the 6 (6, 7) are vertical, you will now take the back piece and lay it on top, Dont worry that there is a difference in size from the front piece and the back piece you will line the shoulder edges
Starting at the right edge of your work line the 2 pieces up at the shoulder so they match, you will join your yarn and assemble the front and back shoulder together, working across 1 1⁄2 ( 2, 2) grannies, fasten off. Repeat for the other side of your shoulder seam.


Side seam and Armhole:
With your wrong sides facing you still you will now join your side seams together. Place your work so the bottom is now at the top, you will now line the sides up and work 3 ( 3, 3 1⁄2 ) grannies up to join the side seam together. Repeat for the other side. Hide all your loose tails

Bottom edge
Shoulder and Neck edge
The Waist
For all Sizes:
Join your MC yarn to a corner of one of the Grannies.
Round 1: ch3 (counts as first dc) dc 2 more times in the same sp,* (sk to the next sp between 3 dc and make 3dc) 3 times, work 3 dc in the corner of the granny, skip to the next granny and make 3dc in the corner of that next granny* repeat from *to* around till you reach the ch3, sl st with the top.
Round 2: ch3 (counts as first dc), 2dc in the same sp, *3dc in the space between the next 3dc from previous round* repeat from *to* around till you reach the ch3, sl st with the top.
Round 3: Repeat round 2 Join your CCB yarnRounds 4-6: Repeat Round 2. Join your CCA yarn
Rounds 7-9: Repeat Round 2.
Join with your MC yarn
Rounds 10-18 (10-22, 10-26): Repeat Round 2.
For all sizes: Remember to try on your work before starting the legs you may need more or less rounds depending on your body type.
Fasten off.
Crotch and Legs:
You will now place your work in front of you so the front is facing you. You are going to find the center of the waist you just worked on by finding the center of the top and following it down to the last row you did, place a st marker in that st, repeating the same process on the back but using the front st marker and join the front and back together. You should have the same amount of stitches on either side of your marker. If you dont then just readjust until you do.

Round 1: Now Joining again with your MC yarn, pick you the stitch from the left side of the stitch marker and ch3, 2dc in the same st, 3dc in the space between the 3dc from previous round until you reach the stitch marker, making sure to make 3dc in that stitch marker, you will now sl st with the ch3.
Round 2-30 (2-32, 2-34): ch3, 2dc in the same sp, 3dc in between the 3dc from previous round, repeat that around your work until you reach the ch3, sl st with it.
Once you reach this point it is best to try it on again you will want your leg now to sit just below your knee before you begin the flare. If it isnt and you need to add more rows do so now but take note on how many extra rows you do for when you do the other leg it well be even.
The Flare:

Lay your work in front of you, you will want to mark the side seams with a stitch marker. This will be where you make your increases. Make sure that you have the same amount of stitches in the front as you do the back when you place your markers.
Continue with your work as follows:
Round 1: ch3, 2dc in the same st, 3dc in the space between the 3dc from previous round, repeat that until you reach the first stitch marker, you will make 6 dc in that place, continue working 3dc in the space between the 3dc from previous round until you reach the 2nd stitch marker, in that space make 6dc, work 3dc in the space between the 3dc from previous round until you reach the ch3, sl st with it.
page5image2945072page5image2945296Round 2: ch3, 2dc in the same sp, *3dc in the space between the 3dc from previous round until you reach the 6dc, count 3dc make 3dc in between the 3rd and 4th st, (bring up the stitch marker as you go to keep the flare symmetrical) * repeat from *to* then work 3dc as before until you reach the ch3, sl st with it.
Round 3-6: Ch3, 2dc in same sp, 3dc in the space between the 3dc from previous round, repeat that all around, sl st with the ch3.
Round 7: Repeat Round 1Rounds 8-13: Repeat rounds 2-6Round 14: Repeat Round 1.Rounds 15-21: Repeat Rounds 2-6Round 22: Repeat Round 1Round 23-30: Repeat Rounds 2-6
You will again want to try on your work, you may need to add more even Rounds or less depending on your body type. Again if you add more rounds make sure to take note how many extra you did for the other leg.
Fasten off and repeat for the other leg.
The Closure:
Once you are done with the Jumpsuit, hide all your loose tails. You will now add your Zipper or Buttons.
Add your zipper now, this is where you will need some sewing skills if you want you can choose to opt out of the zipper and add buttons. If you choose to add buttons, continue to work the Armhole Border and then skip to the bottom for the Neck edge and Button hole border.
Picot Border:
You will work this border around the armhole openings and neck opening.
Armhole Border:
Starting with one of the armhole openings, join your MC yarn to the underarm seam.
Round 1: ch1, sc in the same st, sc in next 2st, ch3 and sl st with the base of the ch3, *sc in next 3st, ch3 sl st at the base of the ch* repeat from *to* around until you reach the first sc, sl st with it and fasten off your work.
Repeat that for the other armhole opening.
Neck edge Border with Zipper:
Join your MC yarn to the back corner of the neck edge,
Row 1: ch1 sc in the same sp, sc in next 2st, ch3 and sl st with the base of the ch, *sc in next 3st, ch3, sl st at the base of the ch* repeat from *to* until you reach the corner of the back edge, sl st in the same sp as last sc and fasten off.
Hide all loose tails and you are done!
page5image2945072page5image2945296Neck edge Border with Buttons:
Join your MC yarn at the opening of the left side opening of the back,
Row 1: ch1, sc in the same sp, sc in next 2st, ch3, sl st with the base of the ch, *sc in next 3st, ch3, sl st at the base of the ch* repeat from *to* up the back opening, along the neck edge to the back corner opening. Stop and but your work aside, you will now want to sew your buttons on.
You will start at the bottom of the opening on the left side, you will sew 9-10 buttons evenly spaced along the opening, sew them in about 1⁄2” from the edge.
You will want to mark the right side of your opening with stitch markers where the button lines up with that side, then you will work your picot edging as you had for the pattern except when you reach a stitch marker you will want to make a chain large enough to slip your button through, sl st it to the base of the ch and continue in the picot edging until the next stitch marker, repeating the button hole again, continuing with that pattern, making button holes and picot st until you reach the bottom of the back opening, sl st with the first sc you made and fasten off your work, hide all loose tails and you are done!

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 









All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo



Easy Granny Vibrant Sweater

Easy Granny Vibrant Sweater

By: Annoo Crochet Designs



Video Link: click here
Skill level: IntermediateGauge: Square should measure 6x6 inches working rows 1-7Size: S/M, (L/XL, 2X/3X)You will need:6 (7, 8) skeins Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable (light worsted weight yarn #4)
Color: Parrot
Fiber: 100% Acryic
Ball weight: 3.5oz/100g/270yds

Crochet hook 3.25mm/D
page1image3736576
Tapestry needle Scissors
Stitches Used:
Sl st: slip stich
Sc: single crochet
Hdc: Half Double Crochet Dc: double crochet
YO: yarn over

Puff Stitch: yo, insert hook in st, yo and pull through st, repeat that 3 more times you will have 9 loops on your hook (keeping a loose tension as you will need to pull your yarn through 9 loops), YO and pull through all the loops.
Instructions:
Make 40 for all sizes, you will make more rows depending on the size you are making.
With your yarn and hook make a magic circle,
Round 1: make 1 puff st followed by a ch1 in your magic circle 8 times, sl st with the top of the first puff, wait till you work round 2 to pull on the end yarn and secure the circle closed.
Round 2: sl st in the next ch1 sp, make (puff st, ch2, puff st, ch2) in the ch sp, 8 times, sl st with the top of the first puff st. You will have 16 puff st total
Round 3: sl st in the next ch2 sp, *make a puff st, ch2, in the next ch2 sp make puff st, ch2, puff st* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the first puff st. You will have 24 puff st total.
Round 4: ch3 (counts as first dc) in the same sp make dc, ch1, [in next ch2 sp make 2 hdc, ch1, ] 5 times,* in the next ch2 sp, [2dc, ch2, 2dc], ch1* repeat from *to* around, [in next ch2 sp make 2 hdc, ch1, ] 5 times,* repeat from *to* around, you will make 2dc, ch2 in the same space as the first dc you made, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Round 5: ch3 (counts as first dc) in the same ch2 sp make another dc, [in the ch1 sp make 2dc,] 6 times, *in the next ch sp make [2dc, ch2, 2dc], [in the ch1 sp make 2dc, ch1] 6 times,* repeat from *to* around, you will make 2dc, ch2 in the same sp as the first dc you made, sl st with the top of the ch3.




If you stop here this is a great size square for the Daniella Granny Project if add to the ever growing project then follow the link below for more info:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HwFsQ6ojLmY&t=385s
Round 6: ch3 (counts as first dc), 2 more dc in the same sp, [sk 2 dc, 2dc in from previous round] 7 times, *[3dc, ch2, 3dc], [sk 2 dc, 2dc in sp between round] 7 times, 3dc, ch2 in same sp as first dc, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Round 7: ch3 (counts as first dc), 2 more dc in the same sp, [sk 2 dc, 2dc in from previous round] 8 times, *[3dc, ch2, 3dc], [sk 2 dc, 2dc in sp between round] 8 times, 3dc, ch2 in same sp as first dc, sl st with the top of the ch3. Continue for larger sizes.
Round 8: ch3 (counts as first dc), 2 more dc in the same sp, [sk 2 dc, 2dc in from previous round] 9 times, *[3dc, ch2, 3dc], [sk 2 dc, 2dc in sp between round] 9 times, 3dc, ch2 in same sp as first dc, sl st with the top of the ch3.
For L/XL fasten off. Continue for 2X/3X
Round 9: ch3 (counts as first dc), 2 more dc in the same sp, [sk 2 dc, 2dc in
from previous round] 10 times, *[3dc, ch2, 3dc], [sk 2 dc, 2dc in sp between 2 groups of dc from previous round] 10 times, 3dc, ch2 in same sp as first dc, sl st with the top of the ch3. Fasten off for 2X/3X.

Sew in all the loose tails.
Assembly

you wanted to send one to
sp between 2 groups of dc
2 groups of dc from previous

sp between 2 groups of dc
2 groups of dc from previous

For Size S/M fasten off.
sp between 2 groups of dc
2 groups of dc from previous
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sp between 2 groups of dc



You will have 32 grannies for the body and 4 for each arm. 

You may slip stitch your grannies together or sew them together with a tapestry needle. As you all know my relationship with sewing, I don’t like it, I try to use my crochet hook as much as I can. I slip stitch them together matching stitch for stitch as I go.
You will assemble 4x4 Grannies a total of 16 Grannies
You will repeat the same assembly for the back
For the remaining 8 squares you will assemble 4 for each arm.



















you will now assemble the sleeves to the body pieces of the sweater.

Fold your work wrong sides together, you will now assemble the sleeve and side seam, starting at the second granny on the arm sl st your way along to the under arm and down the side of you sweater, matching stitch for stitch. Repeat for the other side of the arm and side opening. You will leave the first set of grannies on the arm untouched, they will be left open to give a boho flare.
Now with your work still wrong sides facing you, you will sl st the opening of your shoulders. Starting at the sleeve sl st the first granny together,
For S/M sl st across to the 2nd set of 2dc after the corner. Fasten off Repeat for the other shoulder seam. For L/XL sl st across to the 3rd set or 2dc after the corner. Fasten off, repeat for the other shoulder seam.
For 2X/3X sl st across to the 4th set of 2dc after the corner. Fasten off, repeat for the other shoulder seam.
Turn you work Right side facing you.
Neck Edge Border
Starting at the shoulder edge you will join your yarn and ch1, sc in the same st, sc in the next 2 st,* ch3, sl st at the base of the ch3 (picot made), sc in the next 3 st* repeat from *to* around the neck edge, sl st with the first sc. Fasten off
Bottom Border:
Join your yarn to the side seam and ch1, sc in the same st, sc in the next 2st, *ch3, sl st at the base of the ch3 (picot made), sc in next 3 st* repeat from *to* around the Bottom edge, sl st with the first sc. Fasten off.
Arm Border:
Join your yarn to any stitch of the armhole opening and ch1, sc in the same st, sc in the next 2st, *ch3, sl st at the base of the ch3 (picot made), sc in next 3 st* repeat from *to* around the Arms edge, sl st with the first sc. Fasten off. Repeat for other arm.
Hide all loose tails and you are done my friends.

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 









All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo



Thursday, July 5, 2018

Easy Child Ombre Moroccan Stitch Dress


Easy Child Ombre Moroccan Stitch Dress By: Annoo Crochet Designs

Video Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vbd45kYtswg Skill level: Intermediate Gauge: 16dc x 9 rows = 4 inches I crochet on the looser side, you may need to go up in hook size to meet the gauge. Size: Child sizes 2-3 (4-5, 6-7) You will need: You can sub any DK/Sports Weight yarn in your color choices I used: For size 2/3 5 skeins of Katia Cotton Ombre Yarn (dk/sport weight yarn #3) Color: Blues Fiber: 100% Cotton Ball weight:150g/642yd this is for all 5 skeins (each skein is about 25g) For sizes 4/5, 6/7 you will need more yardage, so you may want to use: 5 skeins of Berroco Comfort DK (dk weight yarn #3) Color: Pick 5 colors ranging from light to dark Fiber: 50% Superfine Nylon/ 50% Superfine Acrylic Ball Weight: 50g/178yds per skein Crochet hook 2.75mm /C Scissors Tapestry needle Stitch markers Measuring Tape Stitches Used: Sc: single crochet Hdc: Half double crochet Dc: double crochet Ch: chain Instructions: Top: With your hook and lightest color yarn make a slip knot and chain 80, (104, 112), sl st with the first ch, making sure not to twist your chain. Round 1: ch1, hdc in each st around, Do not Join, you will work in the round. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of the round and remember to bring it up as you start each new round. Round 2: Hdc in each st around. Repeat Round 2 until your top measures 2 1⁄4 (3, 3 3⁄4 ) inches, At the end of the last round you will sl st with the next st, then Fasten off. Hide all loose tails. Shoulder Straps:
With your work folded in half you will join your straps in the first round you made. You will count 5 (6, 8) sts, from the right side, and in the next st you will join your work with the same light color. Row 1: ch2, hdc in the same sp, hdc in the next 7 (7, 9) st, you will have 8 (8, 10) hdc in total Turn your work. Row 2: ch2, hdc in each of the 8 st across. 8 (8, 10) Hdc in total. Repeat Row 2 until your strap measures 4 1⁄4, (4 3⁄4, 5) inches, Do not Fasten off. Turn your work wrong side facing you, from the left side of the strap you will count 10 (12, 16) st and place your stitch marker, count 9 (9, 11) more st from the marker and place another, you will join your strap in between these 2 markers. You will either join your strap with a sl st or sew them together with a tapestry needle. I chose to do mine with a sl st. Line up your strap in between the markers and you will match stitch for stitch from the strap to the body and sl st your way along. Fasten off hide all loose tails. Turn your work back to the right side facing you and repeat the same steps for the 2nd strap. Skirt: Put your work with the straps facing down. With the same color as your top you will want to join your yarn at one of the stitches at the side of your work. This next round will be an increase round, you will have 80, (104, 112) hdc you will want to increase to 105 (129, 138) st so you will increase 25, (25, 26) stitches evenly around. Round 1: ch1, sc around making sure to increase 25,(25, 26) stitches, sl st with the first sc. You will have 105 (129, 138) sc. Round 2: ch1, sc in the same st, *ch2, sk 2 st, sc in the 3rd * repeat from *to* around ending with a ch2, sl st with the first sc you made. Round 3: Join your next darkest color (Do not fasten off the Main color you will pick up again in the next round and every other round), ch4 (counts as first dc and ch1), *in the next ch2 sp make 3dc in it, ch1* repeat from *to* around sl st with the first dc you will make 2 more dc in that ch 2 sp, sl st with the top of the 3rd ch, join your Main color yarn leaving the 2 nd color in the back of your work you will pick it up in the next round.
Round 4: you will be working in the sc from Round 2
In that first sc from Round 2 you will make (dc, ch1, dc) *Find the next sc from round 2 make a V stitch (dc, ch1, dc)* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the top of the first dc. Round 5: with your main color yarn, sl st your way to the first ch1 sp of the V stitch from Round 4, pick up your 2 nd color, ch3(counts as first dc), make 2 more dc in the same sp, ch1, *in next ch1 sp of the V stitch make 3dc, ch1* repeat *to* around sl st with the first dc. Round 6: Drop the 2 nd color yarn and pick up the Main color yarn, you will now work your new stitches into the space between the V stitches of Round 4
In that space you will make a V stitch (dc, ch1, dc), you will repeat that all around making a V stitch in the space between V stitches from Round 4, sl st with the first dc. Rounds 7-10 (7-12, 7-14): You will repeat Rounds 5 and 6 At the end of Round 10, (12, 14) fasten off the 2 nd color yarn, keeping the Main color attached, you will use this throughout the dress. For the next section you will Join your 3rd color yarn and continue in pattern. Rounds 11-20 (13-24, 15-27): Repeat Rounds 5 & 6, for this section you will be switching back and forth from the Main color and the 3rd color not the 2nd color. Note: If you run out of the Main color, no worries just use the rest of the next lightest color. For the next section you will Join your 4th color yarn and continue in pattern. Rounds 21-30 (25-36, 28-41): Repeat Rounds 5 & 6, for this section you will be switching back and forth from the Main color and the 4 th color not the 2nd color. For the next section you will Join your 5th color yarn and continue in pattern. Rounds 22-40 (37-48, 42-55): Repeat Rounds 5 & 6, for this section you will be switching back and forth from the Main color and the 5 th color not the 2nd color. For all sizes repeat Round 6, fasten off and hide all loose tails. You can leave your dress as is or work a Border around the free edge of the top of the dress. Border: Choose the color you want for your border, joining at the back of the dress at the neck edge, ch1, sc in each st across until you reach the first strap, you will work a sc in each side row of the strap, sc in each st of the front of the neck and sc in each row of the second strap sc until you reach the first ch and sl st with it and fasten off your work. For the armhole opening you will join the same color yarn you used for your neck edge border and join in any of the st of the underarm, ch1, sc until you reach the strap, sc in each of the side rows, sc until you reach the first sc, sl st and fasten off. Repeat for the other armhole opening and you are done. You have created this Moroccan Style Ombre Dress!

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 







All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo