Thursday, February 15, 2018

Crochet Cable Cardigan Tutorial

Crochet Cable Cardigan Tutorial
By Annoo Crochet Designs




Click here for Video Tutorial

Skill level: Intermediate
Size: S (M/L, L/XL, XXL) 
The Length for the written pattern is suitable for someone 5ft 3 inches, but it can easily be shortened or made longer by working more rows, tips are throughout the pattern for help.
You will need:
5-6 (6, 7, 8) skeins of Loops and Threads Chameleon yarn (#4, worsted, this is a thicker worsted) 
Color: Blueberry
Fiber: 62% Acrylic, 38% Polyester
Ball weight: 7oz/200g/439yds
OR
5-6 (6, 7, 8) skeins of Loops and Threads Barcelona (#5, bulky weight, this is a lighter Bulky weight) Color: Onyx
Fiber: 100% Acrylic
Ball Weight: 7oz/200g/328yds Crochet hook 6mm/J
  page1image1680400
Tapestry needle 
Scissors
Stitch marker

Gauge:
6 sc x 6 rows of sc= 2 inches
Stitches Used:
Sc: single crochet
Dc: double crochet
FPDC: Front post Double crochet 

FPTR: Front post Treble crochet 



Instructions:
This beautiful Cable Cardigan starts off with a wider bottom and once you get to the hip area you will decrease slightly to thin it out a bit at the waist. The length for this is to fit just at the knee. Below will be help if you have a longer torso or just want your cardigan to be longer or shorter. You can do so by just making less or more rows at each of the 2 next sections, don’t worry I’ll walk you through it in those sections.
This pattern is worked in a multiple of 8+2

Bottom to Hip Sections:
With your yarn and crochet hook make a slip knot and chain 123 (155,155,187)
Row 1: in the second chain from the hook sc, sc in each chain across. Turn your work. 122 (154,154,186) sc
Row 2: ch1, sc in each st across. Turn your work. 122 (154,154,186)
Row 3: ch1, sc in the first 2sc, *1dc in the next 6st, 1sc in next 2st* repeat from *to* across your work. Turn your work. This row is the base for your cable, you should have 15 (19, 19, 23) dc sections with 2sc in between each.
Row 4: ch1, sc in the first 2st, *(Over the next 6dc you will be working around the post only), skip the first 2st, Now is where it may get tricky you will want to make your next 2 FPTR in the 2 skipped st, you will work behind the FPTR you just made, just push them down slightly so you can get to the post of the skipped st, Make your first FPTR around the post of the first skipped st and repeat again for the second,
make 2 FPDC around the post of the next 2 dc, sc in the next 2 s* repeat from *to* across. Turn your work.
Row 5: ch1, sc in each st across. Turn your work
Row 6: ch1, sc in the first 2 st, *(you will be skipping the sc from the previous row when working the cable over the next 6 st), FPDC around the post of the FPTR from Row 4 skipping the middle 2 st, you will FPTR around the post of the FPDC from row 4, now instead of working behind your FPTR like you did in Row 4 you will work the 2 skipped st from the front of your work, crossing over the 2 FPTR you just made, working a FPTR in the first skipped st from Row4, make another FPTR in the next st, you will now work a sc in the 2 sc from row 5* repeat from *to* across. Turn your work
Row 7: ch1, sc in each st across. Turn your work. 
Rows 8-49: Repeat rows 4-7
NOTE: Row 4 you will skip the sc from Row 7 and making your cable stitches around the post of the 6 stitches from Row 6.
Tip: To help with knowing what row you may be on.
If the 2 middle stitches are slanted to the right you would skip the first 2 FP st from the rows below ( you will work a Row 4)


If the 2 middle stitches are slanted to the left you would make FPDC in the first 2 st (you will work Row 6)
 
NOTE FOR ALL SIZES:
This section of your cardigan should fit from just above your hip to just at your knee. If it sits in this area then continue on to the next sections of the cardigan below. If it is too long or not long enough then remove or add extra rows, being sure to end with a sc row once you are happy with the length for the hip and knee section move on to the Waist and underarm section below.
Waist to underarm section:
Row 50: ch1, sc in the first 2 st, work the cable pattern over the next 6 st, *over the next 2 sc, sc2tog, work the cable pattern over the next 6 st* repeat from *to* across, you will have 2sc left, sc in each of them and turn your work. You will have 114,(136,136,164)st
Row 51-81: continue with pattern only 1 sc between your cable except for the beginning and end of your row where you will have 2 sc.
We are now done with this section and will move on to working on the back and front panels as well as the sleeve opening. You will now want to see if the length is where you want it, the length right now should fit just under your arm to the knee. Again just make more or less rows to get the right length, just remember to end on a sc row.
First Front Panel:
Row 82:
ch1, sc in the first 2 st, work in pattern over the next 3 (4, 4, 5) cables, once you reach the end
of your 3rd, (4th, 4th, 5th) cable make 1 sc in the sc after the cable. Turn your work.
Rows 83-90 (83-92, 83-94,83-96): Continue with pattern making 2 sc at the beginning only of the cable rows and 1 sc in between and at the end of the row. Turn your work. Ending with a sc row.
Row 91 (93, 95, 97): ch1, sc2tog, work in pattern as usual.
Rows 92-100, (94-102, 96-106, 98-110): continue in pattern working 1 sc at the beginning and end as
well as 1 in between each cable. Fasten off.
Second Front Panel:
You will want to count 3, (4,4,5) cables in from the front edge, you will then join your yarn in the sc after the 3rd, (4th, 4th, 5th) cable.
Row 82: ch1, sc in the first st, work in pattern over the next 3 (4, 4, 5) cables, once you reach the end of your 3rd, (4th, 4th, 5th) cable make 1 sc in the last 2 sc. Turn your work.
Rows 83-90 (83-92, 83-94,83-96): Continue with pattern making 1 sc at the beginning only of the cable rows and 1 sc in between and 1 sc in the last 2 st at the end of the row. Turn your work. Ending with a sc row.
Row 91 (93, 95, 97): ch1, work in pattern as usual until you reach the last 2 sc, sc2tog. Turn your work. Rows 92-100, (94-102, 96-106, 98-110): continue in pattern working 1 sc at the beginning and end as
well as 1 in between each cable.
Fasten Off.
Back Panel:
With your work in front of you, you will count from the unworked st 7sc from the first front panel you worked, joining your yarn in the 7th st with a sl st.

Row 82: Work in pattern until you reach 6 st (cable) before the second front panel, you will leave those 6st untouched. You should end with a sc after your last cable. You will have 7 (9,9,11) cables for the back, Turn your work.
Rows 83-100, (83-102, 83-106, 83-110): Work in pattern until you reach the end, working 1 sc at the beginning, in between each cable and at the end of your cable rows.
DO NOT FASTEN OFF.
Now lay your work so the right sides are facing you, fold the front panels over so they match the back, you will now sl st together the front panels to the back, working on 1 front panel at a time. Matching st for st from the front and back sl st your way along till you reach the end of the front panel. Fasten off and join your yarn to the other side and sl st together the other front panel with the back panel. Fasten off and hide all loose tails. Turn your work so it is right side facing you.

Sleeves: (For All Sizes)
You will be working in the round for the sleeves.
Round 1:You will now join your yarn to any of the 6 stitches you skipped when working the back, join with a slip st, ch1 and sc in the same st, sc in each st until you reach the side of the row, you will work 1

sc per row, when you reach the shoulder seam you will want to make sure you work in the side of the rows down the other side being sure to add the same amount of st, when you reach back to the first st you made sl st with it.
Round 2: ch1, sc in each in the first st, place a st maker, sc in each st around until you reach the st marker, (be sure to take it off and move it up as you go from now on out you will work in the round.)
Round 3: sc in the next 4st, sc2tog do that around your work until you reach the stitch marker Rounds 4-51 or until you have the desired length you want your sleeve: Sc in each st around,
remember to move the stitch marker up as you go. After your last Round you will turn your work,
Border edge: sc in each st around, sl st with the first st and fasten off, hide all loose tails.
You will want to repeat these rows for the second sleeve. Also make sure you have the same amount of stitches as you did for the first sleeve for your first round. Once you are done with your sleeves it’s time to move on to the border of your sweater. You are almost done!!
Border:
Row 1: With your work right side facing you, join your yarn to the bottom corner of the front edge. Join with a sl st and ch1, you will now sc in each of the sides of the row until you reach the back, sc in each of the st as they present themselves, sc down the other side of the work again picking up 1sc for each row until you reach the other bottom edge. Turn your work.
Rows 2-5: ch1, sc in each st across. Turn your work. You can make your border wider or thinner, just by making or not making as many rows.
DO NOT FASTEN OFF, for this last row you will work the bottom edge, make another sc in the last st you just made, then continuing to sc in the bottom stitches, until you reach the other corner edge, sl st with the sc and fasten off. 



Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 







All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Cable Pillow Case Cover

Cable Pillow Case Cover  Tutorial
By Annoo Crochet Designs


Click here for Video Tutorial

Skill Level: intermediate
Size: Fits 16x16 inch pillow form


You will need:
3 skeins of Lion Brand Scarfie yarn (#5 bluky weight) 
Color: Cream/Taupe
Fiber: 78% Acrylic, 22% Wool
Ball weight: 5.3 oz/150g/312yds 
Crochet hook 6mm/J
Pillow form, 16x16 inches 
Tapestry needle
Scissors

page1image1701824
Stitches Used:
Sc: single crochet
Dc: double crochet
FPDC: Front post Double crochet 

FPTR: Front post Treble crochet


Instructions:
This cable stitch is worked in a multiple of 8+2
With your yarn and 6mm hook, make a slip knot and chain 51
Row 1: sc in the second chain from your hook, sc in each ch all along. You will have 50sc, turn your work
Row2: ch1, sc in each st across, turn your work.
Row 3: ch1, sc in the next 2 st, *dc in each of the next 6st, sc in the next 2*, repeat from *to* across your work. Turn your work
Row 4: ch1, sc in the next 2st, *(Over the next 6dc you will be working around the post only), skip the first 2st, Now is where it may get tricky you will want to make your next 2 FPTR in the 2 skipped st, you will work behind the FPTR you just made, just push them down slightly so you can get to the post of the skipped st, Make your first FPTR around the post of the first skipped st and repeat again for the second, make 2 FPDC around the post of the next 2 dc, sc in the next 2 s* repeat from *to* across. Turn your work, you will have 6 braided cables.
(See 7:33 min mark for more help if needed)


 

 
Working a FPTR
 
Row 5: ch1 sc in each st across, 50sc in total. Turn your work.
Row 6: ch1, sc in the first 2 st, *(you will be skipping the sc from the previous row when working the cable over the next 6 st), FPDC around the post of the FPTR from Row 4 skipping the middle 2 st, you will FPTR around the post of the FPDC from row 4, now instead of working behind your FPTR like you did in Row 4 you will work the 2 skipped st from the front of your work, crossing over the 2 FPTR you just made, working a FPTR in the first skipped st from Row4, make another FPTR in the next st, you will now work a sc in the 2 sc from row 5* repeat from *to* across. Turn your work
(see the 17:07 min mark for more help)
Row 7: ch1 sc in each st across, 50sc in total. Turn your work. Row 8-105: Repeat rows 4-7. Do Not Fasten Off.
NOTE: Row 4 will be worked the same except you will be working around the post of the previous FP st from the row 6 and not the dc as stated, and as you did for Row 6 you will skip the sc from previous row when working the cable over the 6st.
Tip: if the 2 middle stitches are slanted to the right you would skip the first 2 FP st from the rows below, if the 2 middle stitches are slanted to the left you would make FPDC in the first 2 st
Assembly:
If you want, you can sew your case closed. If you do now is the time you will fasten off, otherwise continue below and use the slip stitch method as I did.
You will want to fold your work in half with the wrong side facing you so you no longer have a rectangle but a square, next you will want to sl st your case together matching st for st across, once you have reached the corner you will sl st your cases side together by matching row for row, making 1 sl st per row, once you reach the end and the 2 sides of your case are together fasten off. You will have 1 side left to assemble, take your tapestry needle and hide all loose tails now. With your 6mm hook join your

yarn to the corner of your work and you will want to sl st your case together matching row for row making 1 sl st per row, you will not work all the way across but work 2/3 of your work, STOP and DO NOT FASTEN OFF, turn your work right side to so the cables are facing you, you will now stuff your pillow form into the case through the opening you left, you will now sl st the opening closed. Fasten off and hide loose tails.
As an alternative option to close your 3rd side would be to sew a zipper to the opening, you will need some sewing skills for that. Either option you choose I am sure your Cable Cover is going to look Gorgeous!!!

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 







All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Monday, January 15, 2018

Crochet Oversized Bow Ties Cardigan

Crochet Oversized Bow Ties Cardigan
By: Annoo Crochet Designs


Video Link: Part 1:click here
Part 2: click here

Size: This sweater Fits a medium adult size, but because it is meant to be oversized it fits loose more like a large or extra large.

You will need:
I used Berroco North Star (Bulky weight yarn, #5) 12 skeins Color: 3010 (Puffin)
Fiber Content: 92% Superfine Alpaca, 8% Nylon
Weight: 109yds/50g/1.75oz Crochet hooks: 7.5mm and 8mm
Tapestry needle Scissors
Stitch Marker

page1image3780048 page1image3796272
Ribbon (optional)
Stitches used:
Ch: Chain
Sc: single crochet
Dc: Double Crochet
FPDC: Front Post Double Crochet BPDC: Back Post Double Crochet Sc2tog: Single crochet 2 together

The sweater pattern is designed to have a tapered look at the knee, if you want to opt out of that for your cardigan, then just start with 117st and work Rows 1-6 even no increasing.
If you wish to make a different size other than shown there are a few option you could try, not recommended for the Beginner though.
  1. Use a larger hook and #5 yarn. Just remember by doing this you not only increase the width of your sweater but the length will be longer as well if you follow the pattern below. You may need to adjust for that, possibly by doing less rows of the bow pattern, which are a total of 4 rows. OR
  2. The bow pattern is worked in a multiple of 13, you can also figure out by adding more bows to your sweater or less if you want to try and make it smaller as well. But you will need to adjust the sleeve and neck line as you go. Again, this would be more for the Intermediate to Experienced type Crocheter.

Instructions:
With your yarn and 7.5mm hook make a slip knot and chain 92.
Row 1: in the 3rd chain from your hook make 1 dc, dc in each of the chains across, you will have 90 dc, turn your work.
Row 2: ch2, work a FPDC in each of the dc from the previous row, you will have 90 dc still. Turn your work.
Row 3: ch2, work BPDC in each of the dc from the previous row, you will have 90 dc. Turn your work.
Row 4: (for this row only you will work your stitches in between the dc from previous row, dont work the sc like you would normally through the st, but you will want to work it between/under the st. see pic below)
Normally where you work your stitch
Work your st in the space here here

Row 4 continued: Ch1, sc in the first sp, 2sc in next, *sc in the next 8 st, 2sc in the 9th st* Repeat from *to* until you get to the last 7st, sc in the next 5, 2sc in next st, 1 sc in the last st, you will have 101 st. Turn your work.
Row 5: ch1, sc in each st across. You should have 101 st. Turn your work.
Row 6: ch1, sc in the next 2st, 2sc in the next sc, *sc in the next 5st, 2sc in next st* Repeat from *to*
across until you reach the last 3 st, sc in each of them. You will have 117st. Turn your work.
Switch to the 8mm hook
Row 7: ch1, sc in the next 3st, *ch8, sk 7 st, in the next make a sc, sc in the next 5 (you will have 6sc after the ch8) * repeat from *to* across until you reach the last 10st, ch8, sk 7st, sc in the next st and in the last 2. You will have 9ch spaces. Turn your work
Row 8 & 9: ch1, sc in the first 3st, * ch8, skip the chain8 from previous row and make 6sc* repeat across to the last ch8 space, ch8, skip the chain 8 from the previous row and sc in the last 3 st. Turn your work.
Row 10: ch1, sc in the next 3 st, *ch3, pass your hook under the 3 chains from the last 3 rows and make a sc around all 3 chains, ch3, sc in the next 6st* repeat from *to* across to the last 3sc, sc in the last 3 st. Turn your work. You will have completed 1 Bow pattern.


Row 11: ch1, sc in the next 3st, *ch8, sk the bow from the previous row, sc in the next 6sc* repeat from *to* across until you reach the last 3sc, sc in each of the st and Turn your work.
Row 12-62: Repeat Rows 8-11, you will have 14 completed bow ties. Turn your work.

The Armhole Openings: 
Front Panel:

Row 1: ch1, sc in the first 3st, ch8, skip the bow tie from the previous row, sc in the next 6sc, ch8, skip the bow tie from the previous row, sc in the next st. Turn your work.
Row 2: ch1, sc in the first st, ch8, skip the ch8 from previous row, sc in each of the next 6sc, ch8, skip the ch8 from previous row, sc in the next st, sc2tog. Turn your work.
Row 3: ch1 sc in the next 2 st, ch8, sk the ch8 from previous row, sc in each of the next 6st, ch8, skip the ch8 from previous row, sc in the last st. Turn your work.
Row 4: ch1, sc in the first st, ch3, sc around the ch8 from the last 3 rows, ch3, sc in each of the next 6 st, ch3, sc around the ch8 from the last 3 rows, ch3, sc in each of the last 2 st. Turn your work.
Row 5: ch1, sc in each of the first 2 st, ch8, sk the bow tie from previous row, sc in each of the 6st, ch8, sk the bow tie from previous row, sc in last st. Turn your work.
Row 6: ch1, sc in the first st, ch8, sk the ch8, sc in next 6sc, ch8, sk ch8, sc in the last 2 st. Turn your work.
Row 7: ch1, sc2tog, ch8, sk the ch8, sc in the next 6sc, ch8, sk the ch8, sc in the last st. Turn your work. Row 8: ch1, sc in the first st, ch3, sc around the ch8 from the last 3 rows, ch3, sc in each of the next 6 st,
ch3, sc around the ch8 from the last 3 rows, ch3, sc in each of the last st. Turn your work.
Row 9-11: ch1, sc in the first st, ch8, skip to the first sc, sc in each of the 6sc, ch8, sk to the last sc, sc in it. Turn your work.
Row 12: ch1, sc in the first st, ch3, sc around the ch8 from the last 3 rows, ch3, sc in next 2sc, sc2tog, sc in the next 2st, ch3, sc around the ch8 from the last 3 rows, ch3, sc in the last st. Turn your work.
Row 13-15: ch1, sc in the first st, ch8, skip to the first sc, sc in each of the 5sc, ch8, sk to the last sc, sc in it. Turn your work.
Row 16: ch1, sc in the first st, ch3, sc around the ch8 from the last 3 rows, ch3, sc in each of the next 5st, ch3, sc around the ch8 from the last 3 rows, ch3, sc in each of the last st. Fasten Off.

Second Front Panel
You will not begin at the outer edge but from the outer edge count in to your work by skipping the first 3st, skip the first bow tie, skip the first 6sc, skip the next bow tie, you will join your yarn in the sc after all of those skipped stitches. Join with a slip st and work as follows.
Row 1: ch1, sc in the same st, ch8, skip the bow tie from the previous row, sc in the next 6sc, ch8, skip the bow tie from the previous row, sc in the next 3st. Turn your work.
Row 2: ch1, sc2tog, sc in next st, ch8, skip the ch8 from previous row, sc in each of the next 6sc, ch8, skip the ch8 from previous row, sc in the last st. Turn your work.
Row 3: ch1, sc in the first st, ch8, sk the ch8 from previous row, sc in each of the next 6st, ch8, skip the ch8 from previous row, sc in the last 2st. Turn your work.
Row 4: ch1, sc in the first 2st, ch3, sc around the ch8 from the last 3 rows, ch3, sc in each of the next 6 st, ch3, sc around the ch8 from the last 3 rows, ch3, sc in each of the last st. Turn your work.
Row 5: ch1, sc in each of the first st, ch8, sk the bow tie from previous row, sc in each of the 6st, ch8, sk the bow tie from previous row, sc in last 2st. Turn your work.
Row 6: ch1, sc in the first 2st, ch8, sk the ch8, sc in next 6sc, ch8, sk ch8, sc in the last st. Turn your work. Row 7: ch1, sc in the first st, ch8, sk the ch8, sc in the next 6sc, ch8, sk the ch8, sc2tog. Turn your work.
Row 8: ch1, sc in the first st, ch3, sc around the ch8 from the last 3 rows, ch3, sc in each of the next 6 st, ch3, sc around the ch8 from the last 3 rows, ch3, sc in each of the last st. Turn your work.
Row 9-11: ch1, sc in the first st, ch8, skip to the first sc, sc in each of the 6sc, ch8, sk to the last sc, sc in it. Turn your work.
Row 12: ch1, sc in the first st, ch3, sc around the ch8 from the last 3 rows, ch3, sc in next 2sc, sc2tog, sc in the next 2st, ch3, sc around the ch8 from the last 3 rows, ch3, sc in the last st. Turn your work.
Row 13-15: ch1, sc in the first st, ch8, skip to the first sc, sc in each of the 5sc, ch8, sk to the last sc, sc in it. Turn your work.
Row 16: ch1, sc in the first st, ch3, sc around the ch8 from the last 3 rows, ch3, sc in each of the next 5st, ch3, sc around the ch8 from the last 3 rows, ch3, sc in each of the last st. Fasten Off.

The Back

You will now want to join your yarn to start the back of your Cardigan. You will start by counting 4 st from the armhole opening side of your front panel (see pic above), join your yarn in the 5th st with a sl st.
Row 1: ch1, sc in the same st, [ch8, sk a bow tie from previous row, sc in next 6st] 4 times, ch8, sk a bow tie from previous row, sc in the next sc. Turn your work.
Row 2: ch1, sc in the same st,* ch8, sc in the next 2 st, sc2tog, sc in next 2st*, repeat from *to* until you reach the last sc, sc in it and turn your work.
Row 3: ch1, sc in the same st, *ch8, sk the ch8 from previous row, sc in the next 5sc* repeat from *to* until you reach the last sc, sc in it and turn your work.
Row 4: ch1, sc in the same st, *ch3, sc around the ch8 from the last 3 rows, ch3, sc in the next 5st* repeat from *to* until you reach the last st, sc in it and Turn your work.
Row 5: ch1, sc in the same st, *ch8, sk the bow tie from previous row, sc in the next 5st* repeat from *to* until you reach the last sc, sc in it and turn your work
Row 6-7: ch1, sc in the same st, *ch8, sk the ch8 from previous row, sc in the next 5sc* repeat from *to* until you reach the last sc, sc in it and turn your work
Row 8: ch1, sc in the same st, *ch3, sc around the ch8 from the last 3 rows, ch3, sc in the next 5st* repeat from *to* until you reach the last st, sc in it and Turn your work.
Row 9: ch1, sc in the same st, *ch8, sk a bow tie from previous row, sc in the next 2st, sc2tog, sc in next st* repeat from *to* across to the last st, sc in it and turn your work.
Row 10-11: ch1, sc in the same st, *ch8, sk the ch8 from previous row, sc in the next 4sc* repeat from *to* until you reach the last sc, sc in it and turn your work
Row 12: ch1, sc in the same st, *ch3, sc around the ch8 from the last 3 rows, ch3, sc in the next 4st* repeat from *to* until you reach the last st, sc in it and Turn your work.
Row 13: ch1, sc in the same st, *ch3, sc around the ch8 from the last 3 rows, ch3, sc in the next 4st* repeat from *to* until you reach the last st, sc in it and Turn your work.
Row 14-16: Repeat Rows 10-12 DO NOT FASTEN OFF.

The Shoulders
Fold your front panel so that it lines up with the back panel, making sure that the wrong side of your work is facing you.

You will now join the 2 panels together by joining each with a slip stitch, making sure to match stitch for stitch as you go so your work lines up. Ending with the last st from the front panel, fasten off.
You will repeat this for the other shoulder. Turn your work back so the right side is facing you and move on to the sleeves below.


The Sleeves

Switch back to the 7.5mm hook, with your yarn join with a slip st to the middle of the 4sc you had in between your front and back panels.
Round 1: ch1, sc in the same st, sc in the next st, you should now be at the side of your rows, you will work 1 sc in each row, so you should have 16st on the front panel and 16st for the back panel, sc in the last 2st. Place your stitch marker to mark your last st and the beginning of the next round.
Round 2-42: sc in each st around, remembering to replace your stitch marker for every new round. (you can do less or more rows depending on your arm length)
Round 43: [sc in the next 3st, sc2tog] repeat that all around. Round 44: [sc in the next 2st, sc2tog] repeat that all around. Round 45: [sc in next st, sc2tog] repeat that all around. Round 46: dc in each st around.
Round 47-48: FPDC in each st around. Fasten off after round 48. Repeat the same thing for the second sleeve. Hide all loose tails.

The Border
With the right side of your work facing you and the 7.5mm hook join your yarn at the bottom edge of your cardigan, making a sc in the side of the row, working 2sc per dc row, after that working 1sc per row all the way up until you reach the shoulder seam, you will sc in each sc of the back until you reach the ch3 of the bowtie, make 3 sc in that ch3 sp, sc in the sc from the bow tie, 3sc in the next ch3 sp, sc in each sc as it presents itself until you reach the seam, sc in each row until you reach the dc rows, there you will make 2sc for each row. Turn your work.
Rows 2-4: ch1, sc in each st around, turn your work. At the end of Row 4 fasten off and hide all loose tails. Unless you want your border to be wider then continue making rows until you reach your desired border length.


Extra Touch (optional)
Ribbons
Cut about 11 inches of ribbon and you can tie them on the sweater at the bow tie rows, Play with it, maybe add them only to the front border panels or every other bow tie. Once you like it and to secure them you can either tack them in place with some fabric glue or use a matching thread and needle to sew them in place. 
Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 






All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo


Crochet Celestial Evening Clutch

Crochet Celestial Evening Clutch
By: Annoo Crochet Designs

Video Link: click here

You Will Need:
1 skein of Julie Asselin Stella (fingering weight yarn)
Fiber content: 84% Superwash Merino/ 16% Sparkling Stellina Ball Weight: 400yds/115grams

Crochet hook 3.5mm
Scissors
Tapestry needle
2 stitch markers
Magnetic Closure:
You will need a sewing needle and thread to match the clutches yarn to sew the magnetic closure, you can also use some of the yarn to attach the closure if you choose to do that instead.
*Optional*
Chain for the border of the Clutch, 

You will need 3 of these: 
Jewelry pliers to join the 3 chains together before attaching it to your Bag
I recommend lining your Clutch with some fabric, if you are unable to do this yourself, you can try asking for help from someone you know who sews. If that option isnt for you either, then you could use a zippered pouch big enough to slip into your Clutch to keep all your items put.
Stitches Used:
Sc: single crochet
Hdc: Half Double crochet
Star stitch


Instructions:
With your yarn and crochet hook make a slip knot, chain 62
page1image1684352 page1image1680608 page1image1675824 page1image1676656
Row 1: in the 1st chain from your hook pass your hook through the st ( you will have to pick up the bump in the back of the chain for this first st), yo pull loop through st, [pass your hook through the next st, yo and pull through the st] 4 times, you will have 6 loops on your hook, yo and pull through all 6 loops, ch1 (make sure not to make your stitch too tight, this is the eye of your star st),* pass your hook through the eye, yo and pull though the st, pass your hook through the last loop of your previous star stitch, yo and pull loop through you will have 3 loops on your hook, (see pic below)

pass your hook through the ch at the base of that last star st, yo and pull through the st, [pass your hook through the next ch, yo and pull through the st] 2 times, you will have 6 loops on your hook, yo and pull through all loops, ch1 (making sure not to make your stitch too tight, this is the eye of your star st)* Repeat from *to* to the end of your work, you will have 1 ch left, make a hdc in that st. Turn your work.
Row 2: ch1, sc in the hdc from previous row, sc in the next eye, *2sc in the next eye* repeat from *to* across your row, when you get to the last eye make 2 sc, in the last st of your work make a hdc. Turn your work.
Row 3: ch2, in the 1st chain from your hook pass your hook through the st ( you will have to pick up the bump in the back of the chain for this first st), yo pull loop through st, [ pass your hook through the next st, yo and pull through the st] 4 times, you will have 6 loops on your hook, yo and pull through all 6 loops, ch1 (make sure not to make your stitch too tight, this is the eye of your star st),* pass your hook through the eye, yo and pull though the st, pass your hook through the last loop of your previous star stitch, yo and pull loop through you will have 3 loops on your hook, (see pic below)

pass your hook through the st at the base of that last star st, yo and pull through the st, [pass your hook through the next st, yo and pull through the st] 2 times, you will have 6 loops on your hook, yo and pull through all loops, ch1 (making sure not to make your stitch too tight, this is the eye of your star st)* Repeat from *to* to the end of your work, you will have 1 ch left, make a hdc in that st. Turn your work.
Row 4-50: Repeat rows 2-3, Do Not Fasten off, Turn your work

Border round:
You will want to make sure you pick up the same amount of stitches on the tops and bottom as well as the both sides of your work making it symmetrical.
Round 1: ch1 sc in each st across to the last st, 3 sc in the last st, sc in the sides of the rows, 1sc per row, until you reach the bottom, 3sc in the corner, sc in each st of the bottom, 3sc in the last st, working up the side of your work again, picking up 1sc per row, until you reach the ch1, make 2sc in the last st, sl st with the first sc, fasten off and hide all loose tails on the back of your work.

Lining:
Choosing your Fabric, I chose a light fabric. But if you want something with a bit more stiffness, then look around your local fabric store to find something that would suit your clutch better.
If you are lining your bag now is the time to do so, you will want your lining to just sit inside the sc border, you will need those stitches free to pick up later when assembling your Clutch.

Assembling the sides:
You will now fold your work in thirds making sure your work is wrong side out. Unfold the flap that will be your enclosure, with your stitch markers mark either side of your bag for your assembly points.

You will want to make sure the stitches are even on either side. Once you have done that grab your yarn and hook, pass your hook through both stitches and join with a slip st at one of the stitch markers, ch1, you will now make a sc through both st, sc through both sides, matching stitch for stitch along your side to assemble, when you reach the last st, sc in in it and sl st in the corner st. Fasten off and hide loose tails.
Repeat for the other side.
Turn your work right side out.
You can add your chain now or Omit it from your bag.
Adding the Chain:
Lay out your clutch in front of you and grab your chains. Use the Jewelry pliers and open the last link of one chain enough to slip the new link/chain to it, close the link and join the 3rd the same way. You will now lay the chains around the edge of your clutch to determine how much length you will need, once you have figured that out you will open the link and remove the extra chain.

Joining to your Clutch:
You will now start from the bottom edge of you clutch pass your hook through the chain and through a stitch at the bottom corner, grab your yarn and join with a slip stitch, ch1, sc in the same st, sc though the chain again and through the next st,

Make sure as you go along not to twist your chain, You will do this all along your clutch, making 2sc in through each link of your chain in 2 separate stitches of your clutch, work your way around like this once you have reached the end of your chain and are back at the beginning of your work, sl st with the first sc and fasten off your work. Hide all loose tails.

Sew Magnetic Closure:


You will want to place once piece of the closure on the flap and the other on the clutch, lining them up so they are in the middle of your clutch. Making sure that they line up so your clutch can close. Once you have that figured out now is the time to take some matching thread or some of your yarn and sew the Closure to the bag.
Thats it you are done! 
Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 






All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Crochet Tail Biting Fox Scarf

Crochet Tail Biting Fox Scarf
By: Annoo Crochet Designs




Video Linkclick here

This pattern when made with the clip is not recommended for children. You can make the scarf and omit the clip or You could possibly add 1 button to the inside of the upper part of the mouth and 1 for the inside of the lower part of the mouth, then just slip the button through one of the rows of the scarf on either side to give the same look but a little safer for children.
Size: Adult

You will need:
Berroco Comfort (worsted weight/#4) 4 skeins in Color: 9783 (Persimmon) 1 skein in Color: 9701 (Ivory)
Fiber: 50% Super Fine Acrylic, 50% Super Fine Nylon
Ball weight: 3.5oz/100g/210yds
1 skein of Lion Brand Faux Fur yarn in black

Crochet hook 6mm 4.5mm
3.75mm Scissors
Tapestry needle
Stitch marker
Polyfil
2 snap on Safety eyes
1 Big clothing pin 

 1 Black Faux Fur Pom Pom

Stitches Used:
Sc: single crochet
Sc2tog: Single Crochet 2 together Hdc: Half Double Crochet

page1image1676032

page1image1689968 page1image1689760
Instructions:
The Scarf Part:
With your 6mm Hook and the Hummus (light brown) Yarn make a chain of 120, You can make your chain longer or shorter if you wish.
Row 1: sc in the second chain from your hook and sc in each ch across your work. Ch1 and turn your work.
Row 2: working in the back loop only, sc in each st across to the end, ch1 and turn your work. Row 3-48: Repeat Row 2. Do not Fasten Off, put your work aside while we work on the head.
The Head:
Mouth parts:
With your main color yarn (persimmon) make a magic circle with your 4.5mm hook,
Round 1: ch1, make 8sc in the magic circle, sl st with the ch1, pull the end yarn to close the circle. Round 2: ch1, sc in each st around, sl st with the ch1.
Round 3: ch1, [sc in next st, 2sc in next st] repeat that around, sl st with the ch1. 12st
Round 4: ch1, sc in each st around, sl st with the ch1.
Round 5: ch1, [sc in next 2st, 2sc in next st] repeat that around, sl st with the ch1. 16st
Round 6: ch1, sc in each st around, sl st with the ch1
Round 7: ch1, [sc in next 3st, 2sc in next st] repeat that around, sl st with the ch1. 20st
Round 8: ch1, sc in each st around, sl st with the ch1.
Round 9: ch1, [sc in next 4st, 2sc in next st] repeat that around, sl st with the ch1. 24st
Round 10: ch1, sc in each st around, sl st with the ch1.
Round 11: ch1, [sc in next 5st, 2sc in next st] repeat that around, sl st with the ch1. 28st
Round 12: ch1, sc in each st around, sl st with the ch1.
Round 13: ch1, [sc in next 2st, 2sc in each st around, sl st with the ch1. 36st
Round 14: ch1, [sc in next 9st, 2sc in next st] repeat that around, sl st with the ch1. 40st Fasten off With the Ivory yarn and 4.5mm hook repeat rows 1-14 of the Mouth but DO NOT fasten off.
You will now join the 2 mouth parts together by slip stitching through both loops of the next 16 st from the both mouth parts, match stitch for stitch.



You will have 24st left on each mouth part. You will ignore the middle stitches from now on and work the remaining stitches.
The Head:
For round 1 you will begin with the Ivory yarn working in the 24st of the Ivory part of the mouth, you will then switch to the Main Color yarn for the other 24st.
Round 1: [sc in the next 2st, 2sc in next st] repeat that until you reach the Main color of your mouth, switch to the main color yarn, continue were you left off in the pattern, sl st with the ch. 64st
Round 2: ch1, sc in each st around, sl st with the first ch.
Round 3: ch1, [sc in the next 3st, 2sc in next] repeat this around, sl st with the ch. 80st Round 4-5: ch1, sc in each st around, sl st with the ch.
Round 6: ch1, sc in each st around, do not sl st in the ch to join, from here on out you will work in the round, place your stitch marker in the last st, be sure to move it up as you go to mark your end and beginning rounds.
Round 7: [sc2tog, sc in next 10st] 6 times, sc2tog, sc in next 7 st, (remember to move stitch marker up to mark end and beginning of the rounds. 74st
Round 8: sc in each st around. 74st
Round 9: [sc2tog, sc in next 9st] 6 times, sc2tog, sc in next 6st. 67st Round 10: sc in each st around, 67st
Round 11: [sc2tog, sc in next 8st] 6 times, sc2tog, sc in next 5st, 60st Round 12: sc in each st around, 60st
Round 13: [sc2tog, sc in next 7st] 6times, sc2tog, sc in next 4st. 53st Round 14: sc in each st around, 53st.
Round 15: [sc2tog, sc in next 6st] 6times, sc2tog, sc in next 3st. 46st Round 16: sc in each st around, 46st.
Round 17: [sc2tog, sc in next 5st] 6 times, sc2tog, sc in next 2st. 39st Round 18: sc in each st around, 39st.
Round 19: [sc2tog, sc in next 4st] 6 times, sc2tog, sc in next st. 32st
Round 20: sc in each st around, 32st.
Round 21: [sc2tog, sc in next 3st] 6 times, sc2tog, remove stitch marker, sl st in next st and fasten off.
25st
The Ears:
MAKE 2
With your 4.5mm hook and main color make a magic circle,

Round 1: ch1, 6sc in the magic circle, pull the end yarn to close the circle, place a stitch marker in the last st.
Round 2: [sc in next2 st, 2sc in next st] repeat that around, 8st.
Round 3: [sc in next 3st, 2sc in next st] repeat that around, 10st.
Round 4: [sc in next 4st, 2sc in next st] repeat that around, 12st.
Round 5: [sc in next 5st, 2sc in next st] repeat that around, 14st.
Round 6: [sc in next 6st, 2sc in next st] repeat that around, 16st.
Round 7: [sc in next 7st, 2sc in next st] repeat that around, 18st.
Round 8: [sc in next 8st, 2sc in next st] repeat that around, 20st sl st in next st, fasten off. 
Make a second ear exactly the same.

Time to Stuff
Stuff the muzzle of the nose and mouth lightly with polyfil. You will not stuff the whole head just the 2 mouth pieces. You will now want to place your eyes and ears. Before you sew the ears down and snap the washer to the back of the eye, make sure they are in a place that you like. See photo below. Sew all the loose tails in from the head.

Assemble the head and the scarf:
If you need help go back to the video at the 25:25 minute mark click here

 page4image5782560
You are going to assemble the short side of your scarf with the Foxs head.


 
The way you are going to do it is you are going to insert your 4.5mm hook back in to the loop you have on your scarf, now take the scarf and match it with a stitch from the center of the back of your head, you will join 2 st/rows from your scarf for every 1 st on the head. You will sl st 1 row of the scarf into 1 st of the head, you will grab the next row on the scarf and sl st it to the same st on the head, repeating that around your head. Once you have reached the end of the scarf, you will now join your scarf together for about 12 st, making sure that the wrong side of the scarf is facing you when you sl st it together.


Once you have sl st over the 12st or about 5 inches you will fasten off. Hide all the loose tails on this end of your scarf.
Assemble the Tail End:
With about a 20 inch strand of yarn, you will fold your scarf in half, wrong side facing you. Matching the short end of your work, you will sew that together using basic sew stitch, pull to gather and work your way across the bottom edge to secure your work. You will now join together about 12 st or 5 inches of the scarf like you did for the head end, matching st for st, sew it closed and secure your work and hide all loose tails. Turn the scarf back to the right side. You can leave it like this or attach a Pom Pom like I did.

Faux Fur Yarn Nose and Ear tips
Nose:
With your 3.75mm hook and Black faux fur yarn make a magic circle,
Round 1: ch1, 6sc in the magic circle, pull the end yarn to close the magic circle
Round 2: 2sc in each st around, 12sc
Round 3: sc in each st around, 12sc
Round 4: sc2tog around, 6sc fasten off. Leaving a long enough tail to sew to your fox.
Take a small bit of Polyfil and stuff the nose, then place it on the fox head and sew in place.


Tips for the Ears:
Make 2
With your 3.75mm hook and Black faux fur yarn make a magic circle,

Round 1: ch1, 6sc in the magic circle, pull the end yarn to close the circle, place a stitch marker in the last st.
Round 2: [sc in next2 st, 2sc in next st] repeat that around, 8st.
Round 3: [sc in next 3st, 2sc in next st] repeat that around, 10st. Fasten off leaving a long enough tail to
sew to the top of the ear.
Make your second one then you will attach each one to the tip of the ear.

Adding the Clip
If you wanted to make this a non biting scarf you could leave it like this or stuff the head and mouth with polyfil and skip to the tail assembly. Or continue below by adding the Clothing pin like so.

If you want to soften the ends of your Pin you can use some batting or felt to cushion the ends, just use some craft glue on the ends and wrap it with the batting or felt, allow it to dry before moving on to the next step.
You will stuff each side of the mouth pieces with some polyfil, not over stuffing but just enough to give it some volume. You will now insert the clip, opening it and putting each half of the clip in each half of the mouth, add more polyfil if you feel your Reindeer mouth needs more. If you wish you can sew the head so the fill doesn’t come out, just stitch it closed around the clip. 

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 






All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo