Thursday, October 19, 2017

Crochet Skull Sweater with Bell Sleeves Part 1
By:
Annoo Crochet Designs










Video Link: click here

Skill Level: Intermediate/expert


Size: Video was made for Medium sizes. 
This pattern includes Small, Medium, Large/extra Large in Lace
weight yarn and at the end of the pattern included are 2x and 3x sizes made in dk weight yarn.

Note: If you still need a size other than what is shown in the Lace/light fingering weight yarn. The pattern is in a multiple of 35 (this is the skull pattern), if you try to make a larger size other than shown here keep in mind that you may need to add a few extra rounds of the Evenrounds (these are just the rounds of 3dc, ch2). You will also have to adjust the front and back according to your new size.
Another alternative to making a larger size is to try using a DK/ light Sports weight yarn. See the end of this pattern for some help with that.

You will need:
4, 4, 6 skeins of Lana Grossa Lace Merino Degrade (lace weight or light fingering weight yarn, #2) Color: Of your choice
Fiber: 100% Virgin Wool
Ball weight: 1.75oz/473yds Crochet hook 2.75mm ( C )
Tapestry needle Scissors
Stitch markers

Stitches used:


Gauge:
25dc x 12rows= 4 inches


Instructions:
Pattern is written for sizes Small (Medium, Large/xlarge)
With your yarn and hook make a slip knot, ch 210, (245, 280). You will want to make sure your chain is not twisted, you will now sl st with the first ch.
page1image15360

First set of Skulls:
Round 1: ch3 (counts as first dc), make dc in the next 2 st, ch2, * sk 2 st, dc in the next 3 st, ch2* repeat from *to* until you reach the end of your round, sk the last 2 st and you will sl st with the top of the ch3. You should have 42,(49,56) groups of 3dc.
Round 2: sl st on the top of the dc until you reach the first ch2 from the previous round, sl st in the ch2, ch3(counts as 1st dc), in the same sp make 2 more dc, ch2, in the next ch2 make 3 dc, ch2, in the next ch2 make 3dc, ch2, in the next ch2 sp make 3dc, *ch7, sk (3dc, ch2, 3dc), 3dc in next ch2 [ ch2, make 3dc in next ch2] 5 times* repeat from *to* all around, you will end this round by having 2 groups of 3dc, ch2 after the ch7, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Round 3: sl st on the top of the dc until you reach the first ch2 from previous round, sl st in the ch2, ch3 (counts as 1st dc), in the same sp make 2 more dc, ch2, make 3dc in next ch2, ch2, 3dc in next ch2, ch6, in the ch7 from the previous round make 4sc, ch6, *3dc in next ch2 [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 4 times, you will have 5 groups of 3dc after your last ch6, ch6, in the ch7 from previous round make 4sc, ch6* Repeat from *to* around, you will end with having 2 groups of 3dc, ch2, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Round 4: sl st on the top of the dc until you reach the first ch2 from previous round, sl st in the ch2, ch3 (counts as 1st dc), in same sp make 2 more dc, ch2, 3dc in next ch2, ch6, in the first sc make dc, ch1, dc in next sc, ch1, dc in next sc, ch1, dc in last sc, ch6, *3dc in next ch2, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 3times, ch6, in the first sc make dc, ch1, dc in next sc, ch1, dc in next sc, ch1, dc in last sc, ch6* Repeat from *to* around, you will end the round having 2 groups of 3dc, ch2, after the last ch6, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Round 5: sl st on top of the dc until you reach the first ch2 from previous round, sl st in the ch2, ch3 (counts as 1st dc), in the same sp make 2 more dc, *ch6, sk the next 4ch from the previous round, in the 5th make a sc, sc in the next 10 st, ch6, 3dc in next ch2 sp, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 2times* repeat from *to* around, you will end the round having 2 groups of 3dc, ch2 after the last ch6, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Round 6: ch9, (counts as 1st dc and ch6) *sc in the next 4sc from previous round, ch5, sk 3st, sc in the next 4 st, ch6, PAY ATTENTION!!! Turn your work around, ch10, (first eye socket made) sc in the ch5 sp, ch10 (second eye socket made), sl st with the last sc, Turn your work again!!! In the first ch10 sc 10 times, in the next ch10 make 10sc, sl st at the base of the ch, ch6, 3dc in next ch2, ch2, 3dc in next ch2, ch6* repeat from *to* around, to end this round you will not be able to complete from *to* that’s ok, work until you get to the last 2 ch2 spaces, you will make 3dc in the first, ch2, then in the last you will make 2dc, sl st with the 3rd chain of the ch9.
Round 7: sl st in the ch6 from the previous round, ch3(counts as 1st dc), 2dc in the same sp, *ch6, sk first 2sc from previous round, sl st in the 3rd, sl st over the next 15st, ch6, 3dc in the ch6 from previous round, ch2, 3dc in next ch2, ch2, 3dc in next ch6* Repeat from *to* around, you will end the round with 2 groups of 3dc, ch2, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Note: now and throughout the pattern you will see “ch sp” it will be referring to the ch2 sp as well as the ch6 from the previous round, so be sure to work your stitches in either spaces when instructed to work in a “ch sp”.
Round 8: sl st your way to the first ch6 from the previous round, ch3 (counts as 1st dc) , make 2dc in same sp, *ch6, sk the first 2 sl st, sc in the next 12st, ch6, in the ch6 sp from previous round make 3dc,
[ch2, 3dc in next ch sp] 3times* repeat from *to* around, you will end your round by having 3 groups of [3dc, ch2] after the last ch6, sl st at the top of the ch3.
Round 9: sl st your way to the first ch6 from the previous round, ch3 (counts as 1st dc) , make 2dc in the same sp, *ch6, sk the first 2sc from previous round, sc in the next 8st, ch6, in the ch6 from previous round make 3dc, [ch2, 3dc in next ch sp] 4times* repeat from *to* around, you will end your round by having 4 groups of [3dc, ch2] after your last ch6, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Round 10: sl st your way to the first ch6 from the previous round, ch3 (counts as 1st dc) , make 2dc in the same sp, *ch6, sk the first 2sc, sc in the next 4 st, ch6, 3dc in the ch6 from previous round, [ch2, 3dc in next ch sp] 5times* repeat from *to* around, you will end your round by having 5 groups of [3dc, ch2] after the last ch6, sl st at the top of the ch3.
Round 11: sl st your way to the first ch6 from the previous round, ch3 (counts as 1st dc) , make 2dc in the same sp, *ch2, in the next ch sp make 3dc* repeat from *to* around, end with a ch2, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Round 12: sl st your way to the first ch2 sp, ch3(counts as 1st dc), make 2 more dc in the same sp, *ch2, 3dc in next ch2 sp* repeat from *to* around, end with a ch2, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Rounds 13-14, (13-14, 13-16): Repeat Round 12.
Fasten off.
This part of the pattern instructions will be different from the video, it is written this way to help line up the skull pattern so you can just repeat the pattern 2 more times.
Joining your yarn for the Second and Third set of skull.
Laying your work in front of you and starting from where you fastened off, find the 3dc, ch2, 3dc of Round 6 that is in between the skulls, (see pic below)




you will then start from the ch2 follow up until you reach the top, it should line up with another ch2 sp.
  

Use a st marker if you need to, place it in the ch2 sp you just found for your center between the skulls, (see pic below the black arrow)

You will then count to the right 4 ch2 spaces after the stitch marker, in the 4th ch2 space is where you will join your yarn and Continue as follows:
Second set of Skulls Continued:
Round 1: ch3(counts as first dc), 2dc in the same sp, ch2, in the next ch2 make 3 dc, ch2, in the next ch2 make 3dc, ch2, in the next ch2 sp make 3dc, *ch7, sk (3dc, ch2, 3dc), 3dc in next ch2 [ ch2, make 3dc in next ch2] 5 times* repeat from *to* all around, you will end this round by having 2 groups of 3dc, ch2 after the ch7, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Round 2-13, (2-13, 2-15): Repeat rounds 3-14, (3-14, 3-16) of the first set of skulls above. Fasten off.
Third Set of Skulls
Join your yarn the same way you did for the Second set of Skulls.
Round 1: ch3(counts as first dc), 2dc in the same sp, ch2, in the next ch2 make 3 dc, ch2, in the next ch2 make 3dc, ch2, in the next ch2 sp make 3dc, *ch7, sk (3dc, ch2, 3dc), 3dc in next ch2 [ ch2, make 3dc in next ch2] 5 times* repeat from *to* all around, you will end this round by having 2 groups of 3dc, ch2 after the ch7, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Round 2-10, (2-10, 2-12): Repeat Rounds 2-11, (2-11, 2-13) of the first set of skulls above. Fasten off.
 page4image14800
Finding your Front and Back:
Fold your work in half so that the front has 3, (3, 4) skulls and the back has 3, (4, 4) skulls.

Place your work so the front 3, (3, 4) skulls are facing you, take your stitch marker and count from the center of the skull that is near the right 4, (5, 4) groups of 3dc to the right side seam, place the stitch marker in the ch2 sp. Repeat the same thing on the left side, counting 3, (5, 3) groups of 3 dc but to the left of the skull on the left side, place the stitch marker in the ch2 sp after the 3rd, (5th ,3rd) group of dc. (below is a pic showing the medium dc groups to skip)

Front Part of your Sweater:
At the right seam of your sweater were the first st maker is you will sk 3dc, ch2, 3dc, Join your yarn in the next ch2 sp.
You will no longer be working in the round but in Rows.
Row 1: ch3 (counts as 1st dc), 2dc in the same sp, *ch2, 3dc in next ch2* repeat from *to* until you reach the 3dc, ch2, 3dc before the next st marker. Turn your work around.
Row 2: ch5, in the next ch2 make 3dc, *ch2, 3dc in next ch2* repeat from *to* across your row, ending with a ch2, dc in the last dc from previous row. Turn your work.
Row 3: ch3, 2dc in the ch2, *ch2, 3dc in next ch2* repeat from *to* across, ending your row by ch2 and making 3dc in the ch5 sp. Turn your work.
Row 4: ch5, *3dc in next ch2, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 3, (5, 3) times, ch7, sk (3dc, ch2, 3dc), 3dc in the next ch2, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 5 times * repeat from *to* across, you will end your row by making 3dc in the next ch2, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 4, (5, 4) times, ch2, dc in last dc from previous row. Turn your work.
Row 5: ch3, 2dc in the ch2 sp, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2 sp] 4, (5, 4) times, ch6, 4sc in the ch7 sp, ch6, *3dc in next ch2, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2 ] 4times, ch6, 4sc in the ch7 sp, ch6* repeat across, you will end your row by making 3dc in the next ch2, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 3,(5, 3) times. Turn your work.
Row 6: ch5, in the next ch2 sp make 3dc, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 2, (4, 2) times, ch6, in the first sc make 1dc, ch1, dc in next sc, ch1, dc in next sc, ch1, dc in last sc, ch6, *3dc in next ch2, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 3 times, ch6, in the first sc make dc, ch1, dc in next sc, ch1, dc in next sc, ch1, dc in last sc, ch6* repeat from *to* across, you will end your row by making, 3dc in next ch2, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 3, (4, 3) times, ch2, dc in last dc from previous row. Turn your work.
Row 7: ch3, 2dc in ch2 sp, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 3,(4, 3)times, ch6, sk the next 4ch from previous row, in the 5th make sc, sc in the next 10st, ch6, *3dc in next ch2 sp, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 2 times, ch6, sk the next 4 ch from previous row, in the 5th make sc, sc in the next 10st, ch6* repeat from *to* across, you will end your row by making 3dc in next ch2, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 2, (4, 2) times. Turn your work.
Row 8: ch5, 3dc in next ch2 sp, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 1, (3, 1)times,*ch6, sc in the next 4sc, ch5, sk 3 st, sc in the next 4 st, ch6, PAY ATTENTION!!! Turn your work around, ch10, (first eye socket made) sc in the ch5 sp, ch10 (second eye socket made), sl st with the last sc, Turn your work again!!! In the first ch10 sc 10 times, in the next ch10 make 10sc, sl st at the base of the ch, ch6, 3dc in next ch2 sp, ch2, 3dc in next ch2,* repeat from *to* across, you will end your row by making [ch2, 3dc in next ch2 sp] 1, (2, 1) times, ch2, dc in last dc from previous row. Turn your work.
Row 9: ch3, 2dc in the ch2 sp, [ch2, 3dc in the next ch2] 2, (3, 2) times, 3 dc in the ch6 from previous row, *ch6, sk first 2sc from previous row, sl st in the 3rd, sl st over the next 15st, ch6, 3dc in the ch6 from previous row, ch2, 3dc in next ch2 sp, ch2, 3dc in next ch6* repeat from *to* across, you will end the row by making [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 0, (2, 0) times. Turn your work.
Note: now and throughout the pattern you will see “ch sp” it will be referring to the ch2 sp as well as the ch6 from the previous round, so be sure to work your stitches in either spaces when instructed to work in a “ch sp”.
Row 10: ch5, 3dc in next ch2 sp, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 1, (3, 1) times, ch2, 3dc in the ch6 from previous row, *ch6, sk the first 2 sl st, sc in the next 12st, ch6, in the ch6 from previous row make 3dc, [ch2, 3dc in next ch sp] 3 times* repeat from *to* across, you will end your row by making [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 0, (1, 0) times, ch2, dc in last dc from previous row. Turn your work.
Row 11: ch3, 2dc in ch2 sp, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 5 times, *ch6, sk the first 2sc from previous row, sc in the next 8st, ch6, in the ch6 sp from previous row make 3dc, [ch2, 3dc in next ch sp] 4 times* repeat from *to* across, you will end your row making ch2, 3dc in the ch5 sp. Turn your work.
Row 12: ch5, 3dc in next ch sp, [ch2, 3dc in next ch sp] 3, (5, 3) times, *ch6, sk the first 2sc, sc in the next 4st, ch6, 3dc in the ch6 sp from previous row, [ch2, 3dc in next ch sp] 4, (5, 4) times* repeat from *to* across, ch2, dc in the last dc from previous row. Turn your work.
Row 13: ch3, 2dc in the ch2 sp, [ch2, 3dc in next ch sp] 4, (5, 4) times, *3dc in ch6 from previous row, ch2, 3dc in the next ch6 from previous row, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2 sp] until you reach the next ch6 from previous row* repeat from *to* until you reach the end of your work.
Row 14-16, (14-16, 14-18): Repeat Rows 2-3 above. Fasten off.
Back Part of the Sweater:
For size Small and Large/Xlarge you will want to repeat the front part of the pattern again for the back. For Medium sizes continue below.
This side of your sweater should have 4 skulls if you are making a Medium size. You will lay your work with the back of your sweater facing you, from the stitch marker you will skip the ch2 that the marker is in, 3dc, and a ch2, Join your yarn in the first dc of the next 3dc.
Row 1: ch5, in the next ch2 sp make 3dc, *ch2, 3dc in the next ch2 sp* repeat from *to* until you have 3dc, ch2, 3dc before your stitch marker, you will ch2, then dc in the last dc before the next ch2. Turn your work.
Row 2: ch3, 2dc in the ch2 sp, *ch2, 3dc in next ch sp* repeat from *to* across. Turn your work.
Row 3: ch5, in the next ch2 sp make 3dc, *ch2, 3dc in next ch sp* repeat from *to* across, ending with
ch2, dc in last dc from previous row. Turn you work.
Row 4: ch3, 2dc in the ch2 sp, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2 sp] 3times, * ch7, sk (3dc, ch2, 3dc), 3dc in the next ch2, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 5 times * repeat from *to* across, you will end your row by making, 3dc in next ch, [ch2, dc in next ch2] 3times. Turn your work.
Row 5: ch5, 3dc in next ch, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 2times, *ch6, 4sc in the ch7 sp, ch6, 3dc in next ch2, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 4 times,* repeat from *to* across, making 3dc in the next ch2 after your last ch6, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 2 times, ch2, dc in the last dc from the previous row. Turn your work.
Round 6: ch3, 2dc in the next ch sp, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 2 times, *ch6, in the first sc make 1dc, ch1, dc in next sc, ch1, dc in next sc, ch1, dc in last sc, ch6, 3dc in next ch2, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 3 times,*repeat from *to* across, you will end your row by making, 3dc in next ch2 after the last ch6, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 2times. Turn your work.
Round 7: ch5, 3dc in next ch2, ch2, 3dc in next ch2, * ch6, sk the next 4ch from previous row, in the 5th make sc, sc in the next 10st, ch6, 3dc in next ch2 sp, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2] 2 times,* repeat from *to* across, you will end your row by making 3dc in next ch2 after your last ch6, ch2, 3dc in next ch2, ch2, dc in last dc from previous row. Turn your work.
Round 8: ch3, 2dc in next ch2, ch2 3dc in next ch2, *ch6, sc in the next 4sc, ch5, sk 3 st, sc in the next 4 st, ch6, PAY ATTENTION!!! Turn your work around, ch10, (first eye socket made) sc in the ch5 sp, ch10 (second eye socket made), sl st with the last sc, Turn your work again!!! In the first ch10 sc 10 times, in the next ch10 make 10sc, sl st at the base of the ch, ch6, 3dc in next ch2 sp, ch2, 3dc in next ch2,* repeat from *to* across. Turn your work.
Row 9: ch5, 3dc in next ch2, ch2, 3dc in the ch6 from previous row, *ch6, sk first 2sc from previous row, sl st in the 3rd, sl st over the next 15st, ch6, 3dc in the ch6 from previous row, ch2, 3dc in next ch2 sp, ch2, 3dc in next ch6* repeat from *to* across, you will end the row by making 3dc in the last ch6 from previous row, ch2, 3dc in next ch2 sp, ch2, dc in last dc from previous row. Turn your work.
Note: now and throughout the pattern you will see “ch sp” it will be referring to the ch2 sp as well as the ch6 from the previous round, so be sure to work your stitches in either spaces when instructed to work in a “ch sp”.
Row 10: ch3, 2dc in ch2 sp, ch2,3dc in next ch2 sp, ch2, 3dc in the ch6 from previous row, *ch6, sk the first 2 sl st, sc in the next 12st, ch6, in the ch6 from previous row make 3dc, [ch2, 3dc in next ch sp] 3 times* repeat from *to* across, you will end your row by making 3dc in the last ch6 from previous row, [ch2, 3dc in next ch sp] 2 times. Turn your work.
Row 11: ch5, 3dc in next ch sp, ch2, 3dc in next ch sp, ch2, 3dc in the ch6 from previous row, *ch6, sk the first 2sc from previous row, sc in the next 8st, ch6, in the ch6 sp from previous row make 3dc, [ch2, 3dc in next ch sp] 4 times* repeat from *to* across, you will end your row making 3dc in the last ch6 from the previous row, [ch2, 3dc in next ch sp] 2 times, ch2, dc in last dc from previous row. Turn your work.
Row 12: ch3, 2dc in next ch sp, [ch2, 3dc in next ch sp] 2 times, 3dc in the ch6 sp from previous row, *ch6, sk the first 2sc, sc in the next 4st, ch6, 3dc in the ch6 sp from previous row, [ch2, 3dc in next ch sp]5 times* repeat from *to* across, ending your row with making 3dc in the last ch6 from previous row, [ch2, 3dc in next ch sp] 3 times. Turn your work.
Row 13: ch5, 3dc in next ch sp, [ch2, 3dc in next ch sp], ch2, 3dc in the ch6 from previous row, *3dc in ch6 from previous row, ch2, 3dc in the next ch6 from previous row, [ch2, 3dc in next ch2 sp] until you reach the next ch6 from previous row* repeat from *to* until you reach the last group of 3 dc, ch2, dc in the last dc from previous row.
Row 14-16: Repeat Rows 2&3, Fasten off.
Sports weight Version for 2x/3x sizes:
For those who want to make this in Plus Size using a #3 (dk/light sports weight) Yarn.
You will need:
3-4 skeins of Lion Brand Mandala Color: Of your choice
Fiber: 100% Acrylic
Ball weight: 5.3oz/590yds

Crochet hook 3.5mm hook/E Tapestry needle
Scissors
Stitch markers

Gauge will be:
18dc x 8 Rows = 4 inches
Follow the pattern above making the Small version for the 2x and the Medium version for a 3x. The amount of yarn will vary with each size so be sure to get extra. 

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 






All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Saturday, October 14, 2017

Crochet Granny Skull Easy Tutorial

Crochet Granny Skull Easy Tutorial

By: Annoo Crochet Designs
Video Link: click here

You will need:
1 skein of Bernat Satin (worsted weight yarn #4) Color: Sage
Fiber: 100% Acrylic
Ball weight: 3.5oz/163yds solids, 2.8oz/160yds ombres Crochet hook 4mm
Scissors Tapestry needle
page1image4624
Stitches Used:
Sc: single crochet
Dc: double crochet
Instructions:
With your hook and yarn make a slip knot and ch 43.
Row 1: in the 4th ch from your hook make 1 dc, dc in the next st, *ch2, sk2 ch, make a dc in the next 3 st* repeat from *to* across your chains, Turn your work. You will have 8 groups of 3dc.
Row 2: ch5, in the first ch2 from Row 1 make 3dc, ch2, in the next ch2 sp make 3 dc, ch2, in the next ch2 sp make 3dc, ch9, sk (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in the next ch2 sp make 3dc, ch2, 3dc in the next ch2 sp, ch2, 3dc in the next ch2 sp, ch2, dc in the top of the ch3/last dc from the previous row. Turn your work.
Row 3: ch3, make 2 dc in the ch2 sp, ch2, make 3dc in the next ch2 sp, ch2, 3dc in the next ch2 sp, ch6, in the ch9 make 4sc, ch6, in the next ch2 sp make 3dc, ch2, 3dc in next ch2 sp, ch2, in the ch5 from the previous row make 3dc. Turn your work.
Row 4: ch5, 3dc in the next ch2, 3dc in next ch2, ch6, make a dc in the first sc, ch1, dc in next sc, ch1, dc in next sc, ch1, dc in last sc, ch6, in the next ch2 from the previous row make 3dc, ch2, 3dc in next ch2, ch2, dc in the top of the ch3/last dc. Turn your work.
Row 5: ch3, make 2dc in the ch2 sp, ch2, 3dc in the next ch2, ch6, sk the first 4 ch and in the 5th ch make a sc, sc in each of the next 10 st, ch6, 3dc in the ch2 from previous row, ch2, in the ch5 sp make 3dc. Turn your work.
Row 6: ch5, 3dc in the ch2 sp, ch6, sc in the next 4sc from the previous row, ch5, sk 3st, sc in the next st and in the next 3st, Pay attention now, as you need to turn your work around!!! Ch10 (First eye socket made), make a sc in the ch5 sp, ch10 (second eye socket made), sl st with the first sc, Turn your work again! In the ch10 sp make 8sc, in the next ch10 make 8sc again, sl st in the first sc at the base of your ch10, ch6, in the ch2 sp make 3dc, ch2, dc in the top of the ch3/last dc. Turn your work to end the row.
Row 7: ch3, make 2dc in the ch2 sp, ch2, in the ch6 make 3dc, ch6, sl st over the 16 sc of the eyes, ch6, in the ch6 from the previous row make 3dc, ch2, in the ch5 from previous row make 3dc. Turn your work.
Row 8: ch5, 3dc in the ch2 sp, ch2, 3dc in the ch6, ch6, sk the first 2 sl st from previous row and sc in the next 12 st, ch6, in the ch6 from previous row make 3dc, ch2, 3dc in the next ch2, ch2, dc in the top of the ch3/last dc. Turn your work.
Row 9: ch3, 2dc in the ch2 sp, ch2, 3dc in next ch2 sp, ch2, 3dc in the ch6 sp, ch6, sk the first 2 sc, make sc in the next 8st, ch6, in the ch6 sp from previous row make 3dc, ch2, 3dc in next ch2 sp, ch2, 3dc in the ch5 sp.

Row 10: ch5, 3dc in next ch2 sp, ch2, 3dc in next ch2 sp, ch2, in the ch6 make 3dc, ch6, sk the first 2sc, sc in the next 4 st, ch6, in the ch6 sp from previous row make 3 dc, ch2, 3dc in next ch2 sp, ch2, 3dc in next ch2 sp, ch2, dc on the top of the ch3/last dc. Turn your work.
Row 11: ch3, make 2 dc in the ch2, ch2, 3dc in next ch2 sp, ch2, 3dc in the ch2 sp, ch2, in the ch6 make 3dc, ch2, in the next ch6 make 3dc, ch2, 3dc in next ch2 sp, ch2, 3dc in next ch2 sp, ch2, 3dc in the ch5 sp.
I made a border around my granny you can choose not to if you like.
Border:
Ch5, turn your work, *in next ch2 sp make 3dc, ch2* repeat from *to* across the row, in the ch/last dc make 3dc, ch2, You will not turn your work but instead work along the side of your granny, instead of making 3dc in the ch2 you will be making 3dc in the side of the ch5 sp of the row, (in the next ch sp make 3 dc, ch2) 5 times, working your second corner in the base of the first dc make 3dc in that st, ch2, repeat from *to* along this side of your granny, when you reach the last 3dc of the granny you will make 3dc in the last dc, ch2, working in the last side of your granny you will (in the next ch sp make 3 dc, ch2) 5 times, to end your border remember the ch5 from the beginning, you will make 2dc at the base of it, sl st with the 3rd ch and you are done. Fasten off and hide all loose tails. 
Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 





All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Pom Pom Beret Easy Crochet Tutorial

Pom Pom Beret Easy Crochet Tutorial
By: Annoo Crochet Designs


Pom Pom Beret Easy Crochet Tutorial
By: Annoo Crochet Designs

Video Link:Click here
Size: Adult/Youth



You will need:
1 skein of Bernat Satin (worsted weight yarn #4)
Color: Sage
Fiber: 100% Acrylic
Ball weight: 3.5oz/163yds solids, 2.8oz/160yds ombres

Crochet hook 4.5mm Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Faux Fur Pom Pom (optional)

Stitches Used:
page1image5224
Sc: single crochet
Popcorn st/puff st: st (yo, insert hook in st, yo pull through st, pulling on the loops making them even with the first, repeat that again 3 more times, yo, you will have 9 loops and pull through 8 of loops, yo and pull through the last 2 loops)
Instructions:
With your crochet hook and yarn make a magic circle and ch1
Round 1: in the magic circle make sc 15 times, sl st with the ch1 at the beginning. Pull on the end yarn so it wont unravel.
Round 2: ch1 in the same st make 2 sc, make 2sc in each st around, sl st with the ch1. 30sc in total
Round 3: ch2, in the same st make a Popcorn st (see stitches used on how to make one), ch1, *sk a st, in the next st make another Popcorn st, ch1* Repeat from *to* around, sl st with the popcorn st you made. You will have 15 Popcorn st separated by a ch1.
Round 4: sl st to the first ch1 space, ch2, in the same space *make a popcorn st, ch1, in the same sp make another popcorn st (increased), in the next 2 ch1 spaces make (1 popcorn st, ch1) in the next ch1 space,* repeat from *to* around , sl st with the first popcorn st. You will have 20 popcorn st followed by a ch1.
Round 5: sl st to the first ch1 space, ch2, in the same space *make a popcorn st, ch1, in the same sp make another popcorn st (increased), in the next 3 ch1 spaces make (1 popcorn st, ch1) in the next ch1 space,* repeat from *to* around , sl st with the first popcorn st. You will have 25 popcorn st followed by a ch1.
Round 6: sl st to the first ch1 space, ch2, in the same space *make a popcorn st, ch1, in the same sp make another popcorn st (increased), in the next 4 ch1 spaces make (1 popcorn st, ch1) in the next ch1 space,* repeat from *to* around , sl st with the first popcorn st. You will have 30 popcorn st followed by a ch1.
Round 7: sl st to the first ch1 space, ch2, in the same space *make a popcorn st, ch1, in the same sp make another popcorn st (increased), in the next 5 ch1 spaces make (1 popcorn st, ch1) in the next ch1 space,* repeat from *to* around , sl st with the first popcorn st. You will have 35 popcorn st followed by a ch1.
Round 8: sl st to the first ch1 space, ch2, in the same space *make a popcorn st, ch1, in the same sp make another popcorn st (increased), in the next 6 ch1 spaces make (1 popcorn st, ch1) in the next ch1 space,* repeat from *to* around , sl st with the first popcorn st. You will have 40 popcorn st followed by a ch1.
Round 9: sl st to the first ch1 space, ch2, in the same space *make a popcorn st, ch1, in the same sp make another popcorn st (increased), in the next 7 ch1 spaces make (1 popcorn st, ch1) in the next ch1 space,* repeat from *to* around , sl st with the first popcorn st. You will have 45 popcorn st followed by a ch1.
Round 10-12: sl st to the first ch1 space, ch2, in the same space make a popcorn st, *ch1, in the next ch1 sp make a popcorn st* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the first popcorn st. You will have 45 popcorn st followed by a ch1.
Round 13: sl st to the first ch1 space, ch2, *make 1 popcorn st in the next 7 ch1 space, sk a ch1 space* Repeat from *to* around, sl st with the first popcorn st. You will have 40 Popcorn st followed by a ch1.
Round 14: sl st to the first ch1 space, ch2, *make 1 popcorn st in the next 6 ch1 space, sk a ch1 space* Repeat from *to* around, sl st with the first popcorn st. You will have 35 Popcorn st followed by a ch1.
Round 15: sl st to the first ch1 space, ch2, *make 1 popcorn st in the next 5 ch1 space, sk a ch1 space* Repeat from *to* around, sl st with the first popcorn st. You will have 30 Popcorn st followed by a ch1.
Round 16: ch1, *sc on top of the popcorn st from previous round, sc in the ch1 sp from previous round* repeat from *to* all around, sl st with the first sc.
Round 17: ch1, *sc the next 8st, sc2tog,* repeat from *to* all around, sl st with the first sc.
Round 18-20: ch1, sc in each st around, sl st with the first sc. At the end of Round 20 Fasten off. Hide all
loose tails.
Optional:
Add your Faux fur Pom Pom to the top of your Beret, make sure to tie/sew it down securely. Hide all loose tail in the back of your work and you are done! 
Video Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wDswJE-SlGc
Size: Adult/Youth
You will need:
1 skein of Bernat Satin (worsted weight yarn #4)
Color: Sage
Fiber: 100% Acrylic
Ball weight: 3.5oz/163yds solids, 2.8oz/160yds ombres

Crochet hook 4.5mm Tapestry Needle
Scissors
Faux Fur Pom Pom (optional)

Stitches Used:
page1image5224
Sc: single crochet
Popcorn st/puff st: st (yo, insert hook in st, yo pull through st, pulling on the loops making them even with the first, repeat that again 3 more times, yo, you will have 9 loops and pull through 8 of loops, yo and pull through the last 2 loops)
Instructions:
With your crochet hook and yarn make a magic circle and ch1
Round 1: in the magic circle make sc 15 times, sl st with the ch1 at the beginning. Pull on the end yarn so it wont unravel.
Round 2: ch1 in the same st make 2 sc, make 2sc in each st around, sl st with the ch1. 30sc in total
Round 3: ch2, in the same st make a Popcorn st (see stitches used on how to make one), ch1, *sk a st, in the next st make another Popcorn st, ch1* Repeat from *to* around, sl st with the popcorn st you made. You will have 15 Popcorn st separated by a ch1.
Round 4: sl st to the first ch1 space, ch2, in the same space *make a popcorn st, ch1, in the same sp make another popcorn st (increased), in the next 2 ch1 spaces make (1 popcorn st, ch1) in the next ch1 space,* repeat from *to* around , sl st with the first popcorn st. You will have 20 popcorn st followed by a ch1.
Round 5: sl st to the first ch1 space, ch2, in the same space *make a popcorn st, ch1, in the same sp make another popcorn st (increased), in the next 3 ch1 spaces make (1 popcorn st, ch1) in the next ch1 space,* repeat from *to* around , sl st with the first popcorn st. You will have 25 popcorn st followed by a ch1.
Round 6: sl st to the first ch1 space, ch2, in the same space *make a popcorn st, ch1, in the same sp make another popcorn st (increased), in the next 4 ch1 spaces make (1 popcorn st, ch1) in the next ch1 space,* repeat from *to* around , sl st with the first popcorn st. You will have 30 popcorn st followed by a ch1.
Round 7: sl st to the first ch1 space, ch2, in the same space *make a popcorn st, ch1, in the same sp make another popcorn st (increased), in the next 5 ch1 spaces make (1 popcorn st, ch1) in the next ch1 space,* repeat from *to* around , sl st with the first popcorn st. You will have 35 popcorn st followed by a ch1.
Round 8: sl st to the first ch1 space, ch2, in the same space *make a popcorn st, ch1, in the same sp make another popcorn st (increased), in the next 6 ch1 spaces make (1 popcorn st, ch1) in the next ch1 space,* repeat from *to* around , sl st with the first popcorn st. You will have 40 popcorn st followed by a ch1.
Round 9: sl st to the first ch1 space, ch2, in the same space *make a popcorn st, ch1, in the same sp make another popcorn st (increased), in the next 7 ch1 spaces make (1 popcorn st, ch1) in the next ch1 space,* repeat from *to* around , sl st with the first popcorn st. You will have 45 popcorn st followed by a ch1.

Round 10-12: sl st to the first ch1 space, ch2, in the same space make a popcorn st, *ch1, in the next ch1 sp make a popcorn st* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the first popcorn st. You will have 45 popcorn st followed by a ch1.
Round 13: sl st to the first ch1 space, ch2, *make 1 popcorn st in the next 7 ch1 space, sk a ch1 space* Repeat from *to* around, sl st with the first popcorn st. You will have 40 Popcorn st followed by a ch1.
Round 14: sl st to the first ch1 space, ch2, *make 1 popcorn st in the next 6 ch1 space, sk a ch1 space* Repeat from *to* around, sl st with the first popcorn st. You will have 35 Popcorn st followed by a ch1.
Round 15: sl st to the first ch1 space, ch2, *make 1 popcorn st in the next 5 ch1 space, sk a ch1 space* Repeat from *to* around, sl st with the first popcorn st. You will have 30 Popcorn st followed by a ch1.
Round 16: ch1, *sc on top of the popcorn st from previous round, sc in the ch1 sp from previous round* repeat from *to* all around, sl st with the first sc.
Round 17: ch1, *sc the next 8st, sc2tog,* repeat from *to* all around, sl st with the first sc.
Round 18-20: ch1, sc in each st around, sl st with the first sc. At the end of Round 20 Fasten off. Hide all
loose tails.
Optional:
Add your Faux fur Pom Pom to the top of your Beret, make sure to tie/sew it down securely. Hide all loose tail in the back of your work and you are done! 

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 
All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Sunday, September 17, 2017

Fall Boho Crochet Poncho 201

Fall Boho Crochet Poncho 2017
By: Annoo Crochet Designs


Video Link: Click Here
Size: One size fits most, squares can be made smaller or larger for your size.
Finished granny size: Measures about 17 inches
You will need:
6 skeins of Rico’s Creative Melange (dk/light worsted weight yarn) Color: Pastel Mix 001
Fiber Content: 53% Virgin Wool/47% Acrylic
Weight: 1.75oz/98yds
 Crochet hook 3.5mm
Scissors 
Tapestry needle
 Stitch Marker
page1image6088

Stitches used:
Ch: chain
Sc: single crochet
Hdc: half double crochet Dc: double crochet
Sl st: Slip Stitch



Instructions:
Make 4
With your hook and yarn make a magic circle
Round 1: ch3, in the magic circle make another dc omitting the last step, you will have 2 loops on your crochet hook, repeat that again making another dc in the magic circle omitting the last step, you will now have 3 loops on your hook, yo and through all the loops on your hook, You just made your first Petal, *ch5, make dc in the magic circle omitting the last step 3 times, you will have 4 loops on your hook, yo and pull through all loops, ch2, in the magic circle again make a dc omitting the last step 3 times, you will have 4 loops on your hook, yo and pull through all loops,* repeat from *to* twice more, finish your round by making ch5, in the magic circle dc omitting the last step 3 times you will have 4 loops on your hook, yo and pull through all loops, ch2, sl st with the top of the first Petal you made.
You will now want to tighten your magic circle by pulling the end yarn closed. You will have 4 groups for the center of your granny made up of 1 petal, ch2, 1 petal, ch5
Round 2: sl st your way to the ch5 space, ch3, make dc omitting the last step 2 times in the ch5 space, yo and pull through the loops, ch2, in the ch5 space dc omitting the last steps 3 times, yo and pull through all the loops (your first corner made) *ch2, in the ch2 sp from the previous round you will make 3dc, ch2, in the next ch5 space make dc omitting the last step 3times, yo and pull through all the loops, ch2, in the same ch5 space make dc omitting the last steps 3 times, yo and pull through all the loops, * repeat from *to* around ending the round with ch2, in the ch2 sp from the previous round you will make 3dc, ch2, sl st at the top of the first corner petal you made.
Round 3: sl st your way to the ch2, ch3, make dc omitting the last step 2 times in the ch2 space, yo and pull through the loops, ch2, in the same ch2 space dc omitting the last steps 3 times, yo and pull through all the loops *ch2, in the ch2 sp from the previous round you will make 2dc, dc in top of each dc across, 2dc in the next ch2, ch2, in the next ch2 between the petals make dc omitting the last step 3times, yo and pull through all the loops, ch2, in the same space make dc omitting the last steps 3 times, yo and pull through all the loops, * repeat from *to* around ending the round with ch2, in the ch2 sp from the previous round you will make 2dc, dc in each dc across, in the next ch2 sp make 2dc, ch2, sl st at the top of the first corner petal you made.
Round 4-18: Repeat Round 3
In between each corner petal you will increase your dc count by 4dc for each side, (2 after a corner and 2 right before a corner in the ch2 spaces)
Round 3: 7dc in between corners. Round 4: 11dc in between corners Round 5: 15dc in between corners Round 6: 19 dc in between corners Round 7: 23dc in between corners Round 8: 27 dc in between corners Round 9: 31 dc in between corners Round 10: 35 dc in between corners Round 11: 39 dc in between corners Round 12: 43 dc in between corners Round 13: 47 dc in between corners Round 14: 51 dc in between corners Round 15: 55 dc in between corners Round 16: 59 dc in between corners Round 17: 63 dc in between corners Round 18: 67 dc in between corners
Your finished granny will be approximately 17 inches. You can make your granny smaller or larger by making less or more rounds but remember by doing so the opening of your neck will be smaller or larger. After you assemble the 4 grannies I will show you how I made mine smaller. Hide all loose tails to the wrong side of your squares.
The Assembly
You will lay 3 of your squares out like so (see pic above)
1

1
2

You will assemble 1 with 2 and 1 with 3, starting with 1 and 2 place them right sides together.

With your yarn and hook you will now join the squares together, making sure they are right sides together, starting at the ch2 in between the corner petals, picking up the back loop in the granny that is closest to you and picking up the loop that is furthest on the other granny, you will want to match st for st as you assembly these 2 squares. Remember not to make your slip stitches too tight and not too loose. Once you have assembled 1 and 2 now it is time to repeat the same for 1 and 3, putting right sides together and sl st together. Making sure that when you are done your work will be joined and lay out like the pic above.
Now it is time to turn these 3 squares into your poncho by adding the 4th. Keeping your work wrong side facing you, you will take and fold in half grannies 2 and 3 (see pic)
32

You will sl st the same as you did for the other squares assembling 3 with 4 and 2 with 4. Making sure wrong sides are facing you, join them the same way you sl st the first 3.
3
4


3
2

Now that your poncho is assembled you will hide all loose tails in the wrong side of your work and turn it right side facing you.
You will now work on the neck opening to make it smaller, if you like the size it is leave it and you are done, but if you want to decrease the opening continue below.
Neck Opening:
Round 1: With the right sides facing you, with your hook and yarn join with a slip stich to any of the dc of the neck opening, ch1, sc in the same st, sc in each and every dc that presents itself to you, until you reach the ch2 space, you will make 1 sc in it and sc in the petal of the corner, in the next 2 st you will decrease them, sc2tog, you will now sc along in each dc until you reach the next ch2sp, repeat making a sc in in the ch2 sp, sc in the petal and in the next 2 st sc2tog, sc in each st until you reach the ch1 you made (do not sl st you will work in rounds.
Round 2: make a hdc in the next st, place a st marker on the hdc to mark the beginning of your round, hdc in each st until you reach the v part of your collar, you will again decrease 2 st hdc2tog, hdc until you reach the next V part of the collar and hdc2tog again, hdc until you get to your st marker.
Repeat round 2 for as many rounds as you like I did mine until I had 5 rounds of hdc, sl st with the next st and fasten off, hide all loose tails in the back of your work and you are all done my friends. You just created a beautiful light weight Boho Poncho! 

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 








All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Easy Crochet Sunshine/Mandala Style Handbag

Easy Crochet Sunshine/Mandala Style Handbag
By: Annoo Crochet Designs



Video Link: Click here

You will need:
Berroco Comfort (worsted weight yarn) 1 skein each color
Weight: 3.5oz/100g/210yds
Yarn Color: Pearl (color 1)
Barley (color 2)
Golden Rod (color 3)
Fiber Content: 50% Superfine Acrylic, 50% Superfine Nylon
4mm crochet hook
Scissors
Tapestry needle
Handles (I used wood rectangle handles, you can find these online at Etsy or check your local craft store)
If you are lining your bag you will need some fabric along with the notions you will need to make your
lining, matching thread, pins etc..
Stitches Used:
Sc: Single Crochet
Dc: Double Crochet
Tr: Treble Crochet
Ch: Chain

Instructions:
The Body of your bag:
You will make 2, but won’t fasten off on the second one.
With your Pearl yarn and crochet hook make a magic circle,

Round 1: ch3 (counts as 1st dc), in the magic circle make 23 dc, sl st with the ch3. You will have a total of
24dc.
Join your Barley yarn, Do Not Fasten off your Pearl yarn you will be carrying up the colors as you go.
Round 2: ch4 (counts as dc and ch1), *in the next st make a dc, ch1* repeat form *to* until you reach
the ch4, you will sl st in the 3rd ch. You will have a total of 24dc separated by a sc.
Join your Golden Rod yarn, again Do Not fasten off the Barley yarn, you will carry up as you go.
Round 3: ch3 (counts as first dc), make 2dc in the same st as the ch3, *sk the ch sp and on top of the dc
make a sc, sk the next ch sp on top of the next dc make 3 dc* repeat from *to* around, you will sl st at
the top of the ch3, sl st until you are in the second dc of the first set of clusters you made. You will have
12-3dc clusters and 12-sc
Round 4: (Carry up the Pearl yarn) ch1, sc in the same st, *in the sc from the previous round make 5dc,
sk 1dc, in the second make a sc* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the ch1.
Round 5: (carry up the Barley yarn) ch3 (counts as dc), in the same st make 4dc, *sk 2dc from previous
round, sc in the next, in the sc from previous round make 5dc* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the
ch3.
Round 6: (carry up the Golden rod yarn) ch3 (counts as dc), in the same st make 6dc, *sk 2 dc, on top of
the 3rd one make a sc, in the sc from previous round make 7dc*, repeat from *to* around, sl st with the
top of the ch3, sl st your way to the middle dc to begin your 7th round.
Round 7: (carry up the Pearl yarn) ch1, sc in the same sp, *in the sc from previous round make 7dc, sk
3dc, sc in the next* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the sc.
Round 8: (carry up the Barley yarn) ch4 (counts as treble) make 6 more tr in the same st,* sk 3dc, sc in
the next, in the sc from previous round make 7tr* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the top of the ch4,
sl st your way till you reach the 4th tr.
Round 9: (carry up Golden Rod yarn) ch1, sc in the same st, *in the sc from previous round make 9 tr, sk
3tr from previous round, make sc in the 4th*, repeat from *to* around, sl st with the sc.
Round 10: (carry up Pearl yarn) ch4, make 8tr in the same st, *sk 4 tr, sc in the next, in the sc from
previous round make 9tr*, repeat from *to* around, sl st with the ch4, sl st your way to the 5th tr and
begin Round 11.
Round 11: (carry up the Barley yarn) ch1, sc in the same st, *in the sc from previous round make 11tr, sk
4tr, sc in the next* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the sc. Fasten off and hide all loose tails.
You could make your bag larger if you want by making more rounds, you may need to increase the
Trebles in between the sc by 2 as you go to keep the bag from curling.
You will now make a second one but DO NOT fasten off at the end of Round 11, continue below.
Creating the Sides of your Bag:

Row 1: Still with the Barley color, ch3 (counts as dc) working in the back loops only dc in each st until
you have 3 clusters of 11tr left, you will not work the sc that is in between your round and the free
clusters. Turn your work.
Row 2: ch3 (counts as dc) dc in each st working in both loops now until you reach the end of your row.
DO NOT fasten off, it is now time to assemble.
The Assembly:
Take the 2 panels and place them right sides together so the wrong side is facing you. You will be slip
stitching your panels together, you will want to line up the first panel so the cluster match and you will
begin in the sc right before the 11 tr cluster in that panel matching it to the second panel.
You will now sl st the 2 together by picking up the back loop on the panel closest to you and pick up the
loop on the back panel that is furthest from you, you will do this until you have reached the end of the
side of your bag. Fasten off and hide loose tails.

Line your Bag:
You will want to line your bag now. This is important, with the nature of crochet it can be stretchy so
once you begin to fill your bag it may stretch and you can lose little items as well. I do not know how to
sew too well and I am lucky to have my Mother in law to help me line my bags.
If you have trouble lining your bag another alternative is to use makeup bags and fill your little things in
them and pop that in your hand bag, just remember the heavier the items the more your bag will
stretch.

Adding the Handles:
Refer to the video at the 35 minute mark. You will sc your handle to your bag.
You will take the bag and have the wrong side facing you, with the Barley yarn and your hook join your
yarn at the sc right before the first 11tr cluster, ch1, Grab your handle now, pass your crochet hook
through the same st and under your handle yo, pass the yarn under the handle and through the st, yo
and pass the yarn through the 2 loops on your hook, you will want to make sure your tension is not too
tight or too loose, when you are done you will want to be able to slide the stitches on the handle as you
go. Continue to sc your handle and bag together until you reach the st before the side of your bag, sl st
in it and fasten off.
You will repeat this for the other handle, hide all loose tails and you are done.
Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 








All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo