Wednesday, April 18, 2018

Easy Crochet Kimono/Cardigan

Easy Crochet Kimono/Cardigan
By: Annoo Crochet Designs

Video Link: click here
Skill level: Intermediate
Gauge: 19 dc st x 10 dc rows = 4 inches
Size: Small/Medium (Large, XLarge)
You will need: 5 (6, 8) skeins of Lang Yarns DiPinto (Fingering weight yarn)
Color: 1762
Fiber: 50%wool, 50% Acrylic
Ball weight: 394yds/100g/ 3.53oz per skein
 Crochet hook E/3.5mm
Tapestry needle Scissors Stitch Markers
Stitches Used:
Ch: Chain
 Sc: Single Crochet
Dc: Double Crochet
Dc2tog: Double Crochet 2 together

 Instructions:

Back:
Make a slip knot with your yarn and ch 86, (90, 96)
Row 1: dc in the 3rd chain from hook, dc in each st across the ch, 84, (88, 84) dc in total, turn your work.
Rows 2-40, (2-44, 2-48): ch3 (counts as first dc), Do not dc in the same st as the ch3, dc in each of the next st across, 84, (88, 84) Dc in total, turn your work.
Fasten off.
You will now create the opening for your armholes, skip 9, (10, 11) st from the right of your sweater, join your yarn in the 10th, (11th ,12th) st with a slip st.

 Row 41 (45, 48): ch3 (counts as first dc), Do not dc in the same st as the ch3, dc across your work until there are 9, (10, 11) stitches left.
Turn your work, you will have 66, (68, 72) st.
Row 42-54, (46-61, 49-66): ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each st across.
Turn your work, 66, (68, 72) st.

Sleeves DO NOT Fasten Off, you will be working on your first sleeve. It is not how you would normally make one but no worries it’ll be easy. ch35 (38, 41),
make sure not to twist your ch, sl st with the first dc from the skipped stitches of the sleeve opening.

Round 1: ch3, over the 9, (10, 11) skipped st and the 14, (16, 18) side rows you will want to pick up 35, (38, 41) dc, once you reach your chain you will make a dc in each and every chain, do not sl st to end the round you will now place your stitch marker in the first st of the next round to mark the beginning and end of your round, be sure to move up the marker as you go. 70, (76, 82) st in total

Rounds 2-10: dc in each st around
Round 11: (dc2tog,dc in next 14st) repeat that around till you reach the marker (For Decrease Rounds throughout: If you will not be able to make a full repeat up to the stitch marker that is ok, just work a dc per stitch until you reach it. )
Rounds 12-15: dc in each st around
Round 16: (dc2tog, dc in next 12st) repeat that all around till you reach the marker
Rounds 17-20: dc in each st around
Round 21: (dc2tog, dc in next 10st) repeat that around till you reach the marker
Rounds 22-25: dc in each st around
Round 26: (dc2tog, dc in next 9st) repeat that around till you reach the marker
Rounds 27-30: dc in each st around
Round 31: (dc2tog, dc in next 8st) repeat that around till you reach the marker
Rounds 32-34: dc in each st around *Stop here for Small/Medium size Sl st with the first dc and fasten off. Continue below for other sizes)

Round 35: (dc2tog, dc in next 7st) repeat that around until you reach the st marker Rounds 36-39: dc in each st around.
*Stop here for Large size, sl st with the first dc and fasten off.
Continue below for Xlarge sizes)
Round 40: (dc2tog, dc in next 7 st) repeat that around till you reach the marker
Rounds 41-44: dc in each st around At the end of
Round 44, sl st with the next dc and fasten off your work. You will repeat the Sleeve rows for the other sleeve, join your yarn in the top corner dc with a sl st and begin your ch, proceed as stated above for the size you are making.

Front Panel of the Kimono
Working from the right side of your work, you will join the yarn at the bottom corner of your sweater,

Row 1: ch3, 2 dc in each of the side of the rows until you reach your sleeve, you will count 2 dc from the bottom of the sleeve and sl st in it,



 Ch3, count 2 more st from the sleeve and sl st in it and turn your work around.
Row 2: dc in each st across, turn your work.
Row 3-4 (3-6, 3-7): repeat rows 1 & 2
Row 5 (7, 8): ch3, dc in each st until you reach the sleeve, you will now dc in each st of the sleeve, when you reach the last st of your sleeve you will then turn your work.
Row 6-7 (8-9, 9-11): ch3, dc in each st across, turn your work.
Row 8 (10, 12): ch3, dc in each st across until you reach the last 3 st, make 2 dc in the next st, dc in the last 2 st. turn your work.
Row 9 (11, 13): ch3, dc in each st across, turn your work.
Row 10-16 (12-19, 14-21):
Repeat Rows 8 & 9 fasten off.
You will repeat these steps for the other front panel but you will be starting on the wrong side of your work, you will make your join at the bottom corner of your back like you did before just starting on the wrong side of your work. Once you have both panels done now you will assemble the shoulder seams.
With your work wrong side facing you, (you may use your tapestry needle and sew this if you wish, but you all know my love of sewing😊 )
You will count from the sleeve on the back panel, 21 (22, 24) st in the 22 nd , (23rd,25th) st place a stitch marker, you will now match your front panel to the back in between the stitch marker, sl st the front and backs together, assembling your first shoulder seam. Fasten off and repeat for the other shoulder.
You will have 24 st left from the back for your Collar for all sizes. Turn your work right side facing you and continue. Finishing the front panels and Collar: You will now work both sides and the neck together in one row. With your yarn, join at the bottom of one of the bottom corners with a slip stitch.
Row 17 (20, 22): ch3, dc in each st until you reach the back of your work, dc in each of the back st until you reach the other side panel, dc in each st until you reach the last 3 st, 2dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 2 st, turn your work
Row 18-30 (21-36, 23-38): ch3, dc in each st until you reach the last 3 st, 2dc in next st, dc in each of the last 2 st, turn your work.
At the end of Row 30, (36, 38) Do Not Fasten off your work you will now work 1 row of sc around the entire edge of your Kimono Cardigan. Border: Ch1, working in the side of your rows you will work 2sc in each row, continue this until you reach the back, 1sc in each st of the back of your work, 2sc in each of the front panel rows until you reach the corner of the bottom, make 2sc in the corner and pick up sc in each st around until you reach the first sc you made, sl st with it and fasten off. Hide all loose tails in the back of your work and you are done!! What do you think? I think it is so beautiful and supper under stated and classy, but a little edgy with the aasymetrical front panels, I am in love with this Kimono. ❤

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 







All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Manly Man Easy Crochet sweater

Manly Man’s Sweater

 By: Annoo Crochet Designs


Video Link:click here
Skill level: Intermediate
Size: Medium (Large, Extra Large, 2X)

You will need: 3 (3, 3, 4) Skeins of Stitches Studio by Nicole in Earthtone (#4, Aran weight)
 Color: Gray
Fiber: 95% Acrylic, 5% Viscose
Ball weight: 9.8oz/612yds/250g
Crochet hook 6.5mm/K
Tapestry needle Scissors Stitch markers

 Stitches Used:
 Sc: single crochet
Dc: double crochet
Seed Stitch:
R1:ch1, sc in next st, dc in the next st, across R2: ch1, sc in the dc from previous row dc on the sc from previous row, You will alternate these 2 rows to make the seed stitch pattern.

Decrease: for this pattern when ever you decrease it will be over 2 stitches twice. You will want to make your decreases in pattern, to determine your decrease you will first need to know what the next stitch in your pattern will be, if it is a dc then you will DC2TOG, then SC2TOG, to keep in pattern. Though if your next stitch is a sc then it would be the opposite, SC2TOG, then DC2TOG. Gauge: 11st x 9 rows in seed st= 4 inches

Instructions:

With your hook and yarn make a slip knot and chain 116(128,132,138) slip stitch with the first chain, making sure not to twist your chain.
Round 1: ch3, dc in each of the chains around, sl st in the ch3. You will have 116(128,132,138) dc in total
Round 2: ch1, sc in the first st, dc in the next, *sc in next st, dc in next st* repeat from *to* around your work, sl st with the ch1. You will turn you work. 116(128,132,138) st in total. Even though we are working in the round you will turn your work at the end of each round to make the stitch pattern that is needed for this sweater.
Round 3: ch1, *sc in the dc from previous round, dc in the sc from previous round* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the ch 1. Turn you work, you will have 132 st in total. Make sure that you are alternating you stitches per row, so if there is a sc from the previous round you will dc in it and vice versa.
Repeat Round 3 for 18 ½” (19”, 20”, 21”) This length is from the hip to your underarm, if you need more or less, just make more or less rounds of Round 3.
Continue to the sleeve opening.

 Sleeve Opening and Back:

 Repeating Round 3 over the next 49(54,54, 57) st, you will turn your work.
Continue in pattern over the 49 (54,54, 57) st, turning your work at the end of every row for 5 ½” (6”, 6”, 7”).
You will have 49(54,54,57)st in total

Back Shoulder:

Continue working in pattern but over the first 13 (15, 15, 16) st for 4 rows (for all sizes).
Make sure that you are alternating you stitches per row, so if there is a sc from the previous round you will dc in it and vice versa. Fasten off your work.

You will now count in 13 (15, 15, 16) st from the other shoulder and join your yarn.
Continue working in pattern but over those 13 (15, 15, 16) st for 4 rows (for all sizes) on the second half of the shoulder.

Sleeve Opening and Front: Counting 9 (10, 12, 12) st from the back and place a stitch marker.


On the opposite side count 9 (10, 12, 12) st towards the front from the back and place a stitch maker, these stitches will be used later for the sleeves.

Join your yarn in the stitch after the first stitch marker, Repeating Round 3 over the next 49(54,54, 57) st, you will turn your work. Continue in pattern over the 49 (54,54, 57) st, turning your work at the end of every row. Work for 4.5” (5”, 5”, 6”). You will have 49(54,54, 57)st in total.


Front Shoulder: Continue working in pattern but over the first 13 (15, 15, 16) st for 6 rows (for all sizes).

Make sure that you are alternating you stitches per row, so if there is a sc from the previous round you will dc in it and vice versa. Fasten off your work.
You will now count in 13 (15, 15, 16) st from the other shoulder and join your yarn. Continue working in pattern but over those 13 (15, 15, 16) st for 6 rows (for all sizes) on the second half of the shoulder.


Seaming the Shoulder Seams: You can either sew with your tapestry needle or use your hook and slip stich the front and back shoulder seams together. Place your work wrong side facing you and match up the front and the back shoulders, you will now match stitch for stitch as you assemble them together.
 Repeat for the other shoulder seam.

When you are done place your work back right side facing you.

Sleeves:

Put your stitch marker in the middle st of the 9 (10, 12, 12) skipped st. Join your yarn in the same st as the marker.

It is important to keep with the seed stitch pattern as you begin

Round 1. Round 1: ch1, work in pattern if the st below you is a sc, you will begin with a dc, and vice versa, until you reach the side of your rows, you will pick up a stitch evenly as you go until you reach the shoulder seam, making sure to remember how many stitches you have and picking up the same amount of stitches on the other side,
Remember to keep in pattern as you work this round, sl st with the first st you made and turn your work.

Round 2: (decrease round) ch1, *work in pattern for 8st, You will decrease over the next 4 st, to keep in pattern you will need to make a decrease of 2 stitches twice, one being a dc2tog and the other being a sc2tog, which one you do first all depends on what your next stitch would be in the pattern* Repeat from *to* around, sl st with the ch1 and turn your work.

Round 3-6: ch1 and continue in pattern, sl st with the ch1 and turn your work.

Round 7: (decrease round) ch1, *work in pattern for 16st, you will decrease over the next 4 st, to keep in pattern you will need to make a decrease of 2 stitches twice, one being a dc2tog and the other being a sc2tog, which one you do first all depends on what your next stitch would be in the pattern* Repeat from *to* around sl st with the ch1 and turn your work.

Round 8-26: Ch1, work in pattern around, sl st with the ch1 and turn your work. Round 27: (decrease round) ch1, you will begin your round with a decrease, make 2 decreases over the next 4 st, fold your sleeve in half and place another stitch marker, you will work in pattern up to the 2 st before and work a decrease over those and then another decrease in the next 2 stitches after the stitch maker, work in pattern until you reach the ch1, sl st and turn your work.

Round 28-33: ch1, work in pattern and sl st with the ch1, turn your work.

Round 34: Repeat Round 27.

Continue to work in pattern until your piece measures from the underarm either 1 ½ inches less than your desired arm length or 18 ½” (19 ½ “, 20”, 20 ½”).

Next Round: ch1, *decrease twice over the next 4 st like you have done before, work the next 2 st in pattern* Repeat from *to* around, sl st with the ch and turn your work.

Cuff:
Round 1: ch3, dc in the next 2 st, dc2tog over the next 2 st, *dc in the next 3st, dc2tog over the next 2st* repeat from *to* sl st with the ch3. Do Not turn your work.
Round 2: ch3, dc in each st around, sl st with the ch3 and fasten off.
You will repeat this for the other sleeve.

Collar (for all sizes):

You will join your yarn in the back of your neck, joining it at the left hand side of your collar,
Round 1: ch1, sc along the shoulder edge (remember how many stitches you will have for the other side), then sc along the front neck st, sc along the other shoulder edge and along the back neck edge until you reach the first sc you made sl st with the first st.
 Round 2: ch1, *sc in next 6st, sc2tog* repeat from *to* around your collar, sl st with the first st. Round 3-5: ch1, sc in each st around, sl st with the first st. You can make less or more rounds for your collar depending how wide you want it. Once you are done fasten off and hide all loose tails. You are all done!!!


Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 







All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Sunday, March 11, 2018

Easy Cable Stitch Sweater

Easy Cable Stitch Sweater


By: Annoo Crochet Designs
Video Link:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jIT9tJIl3w&t=62s

Skill level: Intermediate
Size: S/M (L, XL, XXL) This design is meant to sit just at the waist but you can make it longer or shorter by
making more or less of the body rows.

You will need:
*
5-6 (6, 7, 8) skeins of Loops and Threads Madrid yarn (#5 Bulky weight, this is a ligher bulky)
Color: Bonsai
Fiber: 62% Acrylic, 38% Polyester Ball weight: 7oz/200g/350yds

Crochet Hook 6mm Stitch markers Scissors
Tapestry needle
page1image1651488
*Note: The Loops and Threads Madrid yarn may be out of stock but any light bulky or thicker worsted weight yarn will work. Also Try https://yarnsub.com for more substitutes.
** The Cable Pattern is worked in a multiple of 8 stitches (6 for the cable, 2 for the sc st) ** Gauge:
6 sc x 6 rows of sc= 2 inches
Stitches Used:
Sc: single crochet
Dc: double crochet
FPDC: Front post Double crochet FPTR: Front post Treble crochet Sc2tog: single crochet 2 together

Instructions:
The Body:
With your hook and yarn make a slip knot and chain 112 (126, 140, 154) being careful not to twist the yarn, you will join to the first chain you made making a circle.
Round 1: ch1, dc in each st around, sl st with the first dc you made. You will have 112 (126, 140, 154) dc in total.
Rounds 2-3: make 1 FPDC in each st around, join with a sl st to the first FPDC you made.
Round 4: (increase round) ch1, sc in each st around increasing 8, (10, 12, 14) st evenly around your work as you go. You will have 120, (136, 152, 168) st. Do Not Join with a slip st you will now work in the round.
Round 5: sc in the next st (place a st marker in that st to mark the beginning of the round), sc in the next st, dc in the next 6 st, *sc in the next 2 st, dc in the next 6st* repeat from *to* around until you reach the stitch marker. This round is the setup round for your cables.
For All Rounds: Make sure to move the stitch marker up from the previous round to the first sc of the new round.
Round 6: *sc in the next 2 st, (Over the next 6dc you will be working around the post only), skip the first 2st, make 1 FPTR in the next 2 st, Now is where it may get tricky you will want to make your next 2 FPTR in the 2 skipped st, you will work behind the FPTR you just made, just push them down slightly so you can get to the post of the skipped st, Make your first FPTR around the post of the first skipped st and
page2image5777984
repeat again for the second, make 2 FPDC around the post of the next 2 dc, sc in the next 2 st* repeat from *to* around until you reach the st marker.
Round 7: sc in each st around.
Round 8: sc in the first 2 st, *(you will be skipping the sc from the previous row when working the cable over the next 6 st), FPDC around the post of the FPTR from Row 6 skipping the middle 2 st, you will FPTR around the post of the FPDC from row 6, now instead of working behind your FPTR like you did in Row 6 you will work the 2 skipped st from the front of your work, crossing over the 2 FPTR you just made, working a FPTR in the first skipped st from Row 6, make another FPTR in the next st, you will now work a sc in the 2 sc from row 5* repeat from *to* around until you reach the st marker.
Rounds 9: sc in each st around
Rounds 10-45 (10-49, 10-53,10-57): repeat rounds 6-9. If the length is not the length you wish you can always add more rounds until you reach the length you need to get before you reach your armholes. If you are wanting more of a crop top style sweater just make less rounds, either way make sure to end with a sc round before continuing.
The Back and Armhole opening:
You will no longer be working in the round.
Row 1: make a sc in the next 2 st, place your stitch marker in the second st not the first like you have done in prior rounds, continue in cable pattern working over the next 6, (7, 8, 9) cables, making 1 sc after the last cable, turn your work.
Row 2: ch1, sc in each st across until you reach the st marker making your last sc in it. Turn your work. Row 3: ch1, sc in the same sp as the ch1, work in cable pattern across until you reach the last st, sc in it.
Turn your work.
Row 4: ch1, sc in each st across. Turn your work
Row 5-14 (5-14, 5-18, 5-20): Continue in pattern, ending with a sc row.
Row 15 (15, 19, 21): (working on the neck/collar edge) ch1 and you will work the pattern over the next 2(2, 2, 3) cables end by making 1 sc after the last cable and turning your work.
Row 16 (16, 20, 22): ch1 sc in each st across. Turn your work.
Row 17 (17, 21, 23): (decrease row) ch1, sc in the first st and work your cable pattern, until you reach
the last st, you will make a sl st in it and turn your work.
Row 18 (18, 22, 24): ch1 sc in each st across. Turn your work.
Row 19-20 (19-22, 23-26, 25-30): Continue to work in pattern, ending with a sc row. Fasten off at the end of the last row.
For the other side of your neck/collar count in from armhole on the left side, 16 (16, 16, 24) st, join your yarn in that st with a slip stitch you will work over 2( 2, 2, 3) cables.



Repeat Rows 15-16 (15-16, 19-20, 21-22)
Row 17 (17, 21, 23): (decrease row)
do not ch1, skip the first sc, and work your cable pattern across
your work ending with a sc in the last st.
Rows 18-20 (18-22, 22-26, 24-30): continue in pattern making sure to end with a sc row. Fasten off at the end of the last row.
Now to work on the Front of your sweater and armhole opening:
First you will want to grab 2 stitch markers, with 1 you will count 8 sc from the back armhole and place your stitch marker in the 9th st. With the second stitch marker do the same for the other side counting 8 sc from the left armhole opening and place the st marker in the 9th st.



You will be working on the stitches in between the stitch markers. You should have 7 (8, 9, 10) cables in the front. There are more on this side to give a little extra room in the front. You will now join your yarn in the st with the stitch marker, making sure to join your yarn to the right side of your armhole opening with your work right side facing you.

The Front:
Row 1: ch1, sc in the same st as the ch1, work in the cable pattern until you reach the next stitch marker, you should have just completed the cable over the 6 st, in the st marker make sc and turn your work.
Row 2: ch1 sc in each st across, turn your work.
Row 3: ch1 sc in the first st, work cable pattern over the next 6 st, *sc2tog, work cable pattern of the
next 6 st* repeat from *to* across ending with a sc in the last st, turn your work.
Row 4-12 (4-12, 4-16, 4-18): Continue in pattern except making 1sc between each cable instead of 2 as before. Turn your work.
Row 13 (13, 17, 19): (working on the neck/collar edge) ch1 and you will work the pattern over the next 2(2, 2, 3) cables end by making 1 sc after the last cable and turning your work.
Row 14 (14, 18, 20): ch1 sc in each st across, turn your work.
Row 15-20 (15-22, 19-26, 21-30): work in pattern. Working a cable row and a sc row, ending with a sc
row. Once you are done with the last row Fasten Off.
For the other side of your neck/collar count in from armhole on the left side, 16 (16, 16, 24) st, join your yarn in that st with a slip stitch you will work over 2(2, 2, 3) cables.

Repeat Rows 13-20 (13-22, 17-26, 19-30): once you complete all the rows Do Not Fasten Off. You will now slip stitch the shoulder seams together.
Shoulder Assembly:
Turn your work wrong side facing you, with your hook you will want to line up your back and front shoulder seams and slip stitch them both together, matching stitch for stitch, until you reach the end. Fasten off. Join your yarn to the other seam and repeat slip stitching those seams together. If you prefer you can sew them together.
Turn your work back to the right side, so the cables are facing you. It is now time to make our sleeves.
Sleeves:
You will join your yarn in the underarm of your sleeve opening, find the middle st and join your yarn there.



Round 1: ch1, sc in each st until you reach the side of your rows, there you will want to make 1 sc per row, keep count how many st you have when you reach your shoulder seam you will want to make the same amount of stitches along the other side until you reach the under arm st, there you will sc in each st until you reach the first sc you made, sl st with it. Make a note how many stitches you have in total so you can repeat that for the other sleeve.
Round 2: ch1, sc in the first st (place your stitch marker) sc in the next 3 st, *sc2tog, sc in the next 4st* repeat *to* all around until you reach the stitch marker.
For All Rounds: Make sure to move the stitch marker up from the previous round to the first sc of the new round.
Before you move on to Round 3 you will need to figure out where to place your cable for your sleeve. Grab 2 stitch markers and from the shoulder seam find the center, count 3 st to the left and place a stitch marker, then from that stitch marker count 6 st to the right and place a stitch marker. Now continue to Round 3.



Round 3: sc your way around until you reach the first st marker, remove the marker and make 1 dc in each of the next 6st, sc in each st until you reach the beginning of the round.
Round 4: sc until you reach the first of the 6dc, you will now start your cable pattern over the 6 st, skip the first 2 st, FPTR over the next 2 st, You will now fold your work so you can work behind to pick up the skipped st, work 1 FPTR over those 2 skipped st, FPDC in the last 2 st, sc around until you reach the first st marker.
Round 5: sc in each st until you reach the st marker.
Round 6: sc in each st until you reach the cable, working in Round 4, work 1 FPDC over the next 2 st, skip the next 2 st from round 4 and work FPTR in the last 2 st, working in front of your work, work 1 FPTR in the 2 skipped st from round 4, sc in each st until you reach the stitch marker.
Round 7: sc in each st until you reach the st marker.
Round 8-64: Repeat Rounds 4-7, once you reach your last round sl st with the first st. If you need your sleeve to be longer continue making more rounds ending with a sc round. If it its too long make less rounds ending with a sc round. But be sure if you make more or less to keep track how many rounds you did so you can repeat that for the second sleeve.
Edging Round:
Turn your work and sc in each st from the wrong side of your work, sl st with the first st and Fasten Off.

You will want to repeat the same steps for the other sleeve. Fasten off and hide all the loose tails.
Neck/Collar Edging:
With your back of your sweater facing you, you will join your yarn in the left corner of the collar.



Join your yarn with a slip stitch and ch1, sc in the same st, pick up 1 sc in each side row, then work 1 sc in each st across the front neck edge, pick up 1 sc in each side row, then work 1 sc in each st across the back-neck edge,
I did 4 rounds for my neck edge, but you do how many you want, just remember not to join in the round, use a stitch marker to mark the beginning and end of a round, once you reach the desired length for your neck edge, sl st with the first st from the round and Fasten off. Hide all loose tails and you are done my Friends! 




Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 







All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Thursday, February 15, 2018

Crochet Cable Cardigan Tutorial

Crochet Cable Cardigan Tutorial
By Annoo Crochet Designs




Click here for Video Tutorial

Skill level: Intermediate
Size: S (M/L, L/XL, XXL) 
The Length for the written pattern is suitable for someone 5ft 3 inches, but it can easily be shortened or made longer by working more rows, tips are throughout the pattern for help.
You will need:
5-6 (6, 7, 8) skeins of Loops and Threads Chameleon yarn (#4, worsted, this is a thicker worsted) 
Color: Blueberry
Fiber: 62% Acrylic, 38% Polyester
Ball weight: 7oz/200g/439yds
OR
5-6 (6, 7, 8) skeins of Loops and Threads Barcelona (#5, bulky weight, this is a lighter Bulky weight) Color: Onyx
Fiber: 100% Acrylic
Ball Weight: 7oz/200g/328yds Crochet hook 6mm/J
  page1image1680400
Tapestry needle 
Scissors
Stitch marker

Gauge:
6 sc x 6 rows of sc= 2 inches
Stitches Used:
Sc: single crochet
Dc: double crochet
FPDC: Front post Double crochet 

FPTR: Front post Treble crochet 



Instructions:
This beautiful Cable Cardigan starts off with a wider bottom and once you get to the hip area you will decrease slightly to thin it out a bit at the waist. The length for this is to fit just at the knee. Below will be help if you have a longer torso or just want your cardigan to be longer or shorter. You can do so by just making less or more rows at each of the 2 next sections, don’t worry I’ll walk you through it in those sections.
This pattern is worked in a multiple of 8+2

Bottom to Hip Sections:
With your yarn and crochet hook make a slip knot and chain 123 (155,155,187)
Row 1: in the second chain from the hook sc, sc in each chain across. Turn your work. 122 (154,154,186) sc
Row 2: ch1, sc in each st across. Turn your work. 122 (154,154,186)
Row 3: ch1, sc in the first 2sc, *1dc in the next 6st, 1sc in next 2st* repeat from *to* across your work. Turn your work. This row is the base for your cable, you should have 15 (19, 19, 23) dc sections with 2sc in between each.
Row 4: ch1, sc in the first 2st, *(Over the next 6dc you will be working around the post only), skip the first 2st, Now is where it may get tricky you will want to make your next 2 FPTR in the 2 skipped st, you will work behind the FPTR you just made, just push them down slightly so you can get to the post of the skipped st, Make your first FPTR around the post of the first skipped st and repeat again for the second,
make 2 FPDC around the post of the next 2 dc, sc in the next 2 s* repeat from *to* across. Turn your work.
Row 5: ch1, sc in each st across. Turn your work
Row 6: ch1, sc in the first 2 st, *(you will be skipping the sc from the previous row when working the cable over the next 6 st), FPDC around the post of the FPTR from Row 4 skipping the middle 2 st, you will FPTR around the post of the FPDC from row 4, now instead of working behind your FPTR like you did in Row 4 you will work the 2 skipped st from the front of your work, crossing over the 2 FPTR you just made, working a FPTR in the first skipped st from Row4, make another FPTR in the next st, you will now work a sc in the 2 sc from row 5* repeat from *to* across. Turn your work
Row 7: ch1, sc in each st across. Turn your work. 
Rows 8-49: Repeat rows 4-7
NOTE: Row 4 you will skip the sc from Row 7 and making your cable stitches around the post of the 6 stitches from Row 6.
Tip: To help with knowing what row you may be on.
If the 2 middle stitches are slanted to the right you would skip the first 2 FP st from the rows below ( you will work a Row 4)


If the 2 middle stitches are slanted to the left you would make FPDC in the first 2 st (you will work Row 6)
 
NOTE FOR ALL SIZES:
This section of your cardigan should fit from just above your hip to just at your knee. If it sits in this area then continue on to the next sections of the cardigan below. If it is too long or not long enough then remove or add extra rows, being sure to end with a sc row once you are happy with the length for the hip and knee section move on to the Waist and underarm section below.
Waist to underarm section:
Row 50: ch1, sc in the first 2 st, work the cable pattern over the next 6 st, *over the next 2 sc, sc2tog, work the cable pattern over the next 6 st* repeat from *to* across, you will have 2sc left, sc in each of them and turn your work. You will have 114,(136,136,164)st
Row 51-81: continue with pattern only 1 sc between your cable except for the beginning and end of your row where you will have 2 sc.
We are now done with this section and will move on to working on the back and front panels as well as the sleeve opening. You will now want to see if the length is where you want it, the length right now should fit just under your arm to the knee. Again just make more or less rows to get the right length, just remember to end on a sc row.
First Front Panel:
Row 82:
ch1, sc in the first 2 st, work in pattern over the next 3 (4, 4, 5) cables, once you reach the end
of your 3rd, (4th, 4th, 5th) cable make 1 sc in the sc after the cable. Turn your work.
Rows 83-90 (83-92, 83-94,83-96): Continue with pattern making 2 sc at the beginning only of the cable rows and 1 sc in between and at the end of the row. Turn your work. Ending with a sc row.
Row 91 (93, 95, 97): ch1, sc2tog, work in pattern as usual.
Rows 92-100, (94-102, 96-106, 98-110): continue in pattern working 1 sc at the beginning and end as
well as 1 in between each cable. Fasten off.
Second Front Panel:
You will want to count 3, (4,4,5) cables in from the front edge, you will then join your yarn in the sc after the 3rd, (4th, 4th, 5th) cable.
Row 82: ch1, sc in the first st, work in pattern over the next 3 (4, 4, 5) cables, once you reach the end of your 3rd, (4th, 4th, 5th) cable make 1 sc in the last 2 sc. Turn your work.
Rows 83-90 (83-92, 83-94,83-96): Continue with pattern making 1 sc at the beginning only of the cable rows and 1 sc in between and 1 sc in the last 2 st at the end of the row. Turn your work. Ending with a sc row.
Row 91 (93, 95, 97): ch1, work in pattern as usual until you reach the last 2 sc, sc2tog. Turn your work. Rows 92-100, (94-102, 96-106, 98-110): continue in pattern working 1 sc at the beginning and end as
well as 1 in between each cable.
Fasten Off.
Back Panel:
With your work in front of you, you will count from the unworked st 7sc from the first front panel you worked, joining your yarn in the 7th st with a sl st.

Row 82: Work in pattern until you reach 6 st (cable) before the second front panel, you will leave those 6st untouched. You should end with a sc after your last cable. You will have 7 (9,9,11) cables for the back, Turn your work.
Rows 83-100, (83-102, 83-106, 83-110): Work in pattern until you reach the end, working 1 sc at the beginning, in between each cable and at the end of your cable rows.
DO NOT FASTEN OFF.
Now lay your work so the right sides are facing you, fold the front panels over so they match the back, you will now sl st together the front panels to the back, working on 1 front panel at a time. Matching st for st from the front and back sl st your way along till you reach the end of the front panel. Fasten off and join your yarn to the other side and sl st together the other front panel with the back panel. Fasten off and hide all loose tails. Turn your work so it is right side facing you.

Sleeves: (For All Sizes)
You will be working in the round for the sleeves.
Round 1:You will now join your yarn to any of the 6 stitches you skipped when working the back, join with a slip st, ch1 and sc in the same st, sc in each st until you reach the side of the row, you will work 1

sc per row, when you reach the shoulder seam you will want to make sure you work in the side of the rows down the other side being sure to add the same amount of st, when you reach back to the first st you made sl st with it.
Round 2: ch1, sc in each in the first st, place a st maker, sc in each st around until you reach the st marker, (be sure to take it off and move it up as you go from now on out you will work in the round.)
Round 3: sc in the next 4st, sc2tog do that around your work until you reach the stitch marker Rounds 4-51 or until you have the desired length you want your sleeve: Sc in each st around,
remember to move the stitch marker up as you go. After your last Round you will turn your work,
Border edge: sc in each st around, sl st with the first st and fasten off, hide all loose tails.
You will want to repeat these rows for the second sleeve. Also make sure you have the same amount of stitches as you did for the first sleeve for your first round. Once you are done with your sleeves it’s time to move on to the border of your sweater. You are almost done!!
Border:
Row 1: With your work right side facing you, join your yarn to the bottom corner of the front edge. Join with a sl st and ch1, you will now sc in each of the sides of the row until you reach the back, sc in each of the st as they present themselves, sc down the other side of the work again picking up 1sc for each row until you reach the other bottom edge. Turn your work.
Rows 2-5: ch1, sc in each st across. Turn your work. You can make your border wider or thinner, just by making or not making as many rows.
DO NOT FASTEN OFF, for this last row you will work the bottom edge, make another sc in the last st you just made, then continuing to sc in the bottom stitches, until you reach the other corner edge, sl st with the sc and fasten off. 



Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 







All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Cable Pillow Case Cover

Cable Pillow Case Cover  Tutorial
By Annoo Crochet Designs


Click here for Video Tutorial

Skill Level: intermediate
Size: Fits 16x16 inch pillow form


You will need:
3 skeins of Lion Brand Scarfie yarn (#5 bluky weight) 
Color: Cream/Taupe
Fiber: 78% Acrylic, 22% Wool
Ball weight: 5.3 oz/150g/312yds 
Crochet hook 6mm/J
Pillow form, 16x16 inches 
Tapestry needle
Scissors

page1image1701824
Stitches Used:
Sc: single crochet
Dc: double crochet
FPDC: Front post Double crochet 

FPTR: Front post Treble crochet


Instructions:
This cable stitch is worked in a multiple of 8+2
With your yarn and 6mm hook, make a slip knot and chain 51
Row 1: sc in the second chain from your hook, sc in each ch all along. You will have 50sc, turn your work
Row2: ch1, sc in each st across, turn your work.
Row 3: ch1, sc in the next 2 st, *dc in each of the next 6st, sc in the next 2*, repeat from *to* across your work. Turn your work
Row 4: ch1, sc in the next 2st, *(Over the next 6dc you will be working around the post only), skip the first 2st, Now is where it may get tricky you will want to make your next 2 FPTR in the 2 skipped st, you will work behind the FPTR you just made, just push them down slightly so you can get to the post of the skipped st, Make your first FPTR around the post of the first skipped st and repeat again for the second, make 2 FPDC around the post of the next 2 dc, sc in the next 2 s* repeat from *to* across. Turn your work, you will have 6 braided cables.
(See 7:33 min mark for more help if needed)


 

 
Working a FPTR
 
Row 5: ch1 sc in each st across, 50sc in total. Turn your work.
Row 6: ch1, sc in the first 2 st, *(you will be skipping the sc from the previous row when working the cable over the next 6 st), FPDC around the post of the FPTR from Row 4 skipping the middle 2 st, you will FPTR around the post of the FPDC from row 4, now instead of working behind your FPTR like you did in Row 4 you will work the 2 skipped st from the front of your work, crossing over the 2 FPTR you just made, working a FPTR in the first skipped st from Row4, make another FPTR in the next st, you will now work a sc in the 2 sc from row 5* repeat from *to* across. Turn your work
(see the 17:07 min mark for more help)
Row 7: ch1 sc in each st across, 50sc in total. Turn your work. Row 8-105: Repeat rows 4-7. Do Not Fasten Off.
NOTE: Row 4 will be worked the same except you will be working around the post of the previous FP st from the row 6 and not the dc as stated, and as you did for Row 6 you will skip the sc from previous row when working the cable over the 6st.
Tip: if the 2 middle stitches are slanted to the right you would skip the first 2 FP st from the rows below, if the 2 middle stitches are slanted to the left you would make FPDC in the first 2 st
Assembly:
If you want, you can sew your case closed. If you do now is the time you will fasten off, otherwise continue below and use the slip stitch method as I did.
You will want to fold your work in half with the wrong side facing you so you no longer have a rectangle but a square, next you will want to sl st your case together matching st for st across, once you have reached the corner you will sl st your cases side together by matching row for row, making 1 sl st per row, once you reach the end and the 2 sides of your case are together fasten off. You will have 1 side left to assemble, take your tapestry needle and hide all loose tails now. With your 6mm hook join your

yarn to the corner of your work and you will want to sl st your case together matching row for row making 1 sl st per row, you will not work all the way across but work 2/3 of your work, STOP and DO NOT FASTEN OFF, turn your work right side to so the cables are facing you, you will now stuff your pillow form into the case through the opening you left, you will now sl st the opening closed. Fasten off and hide loose tails.
As an alternative option to close your 3rd side would be to sew a zipper to the opening, you will need some sewing skills for that. Either option you choose I am sure your Cable Cover is going to look Gorgeous!!!

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 







All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo