Saturday, July 6, 2019

Summer 2019 Beach Cover Up

Summer 2019 Beach Cover Up
By: Annoo Crochet DesignsVideo Link: click here





Skill level: Advanced Beginner/IntermediateGauge: Working in pattern Rows 1-4
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4 rows by 8 dc =1 1⁄2 inches
Size: Small/Medium (L/XL, 2X/3X)
You will need:
250 (300, 400) g cake of Wolltraum My Melody​ ​4 ply (#2)​ ​Gradient Ombre Yarn Cake
Color: Funny No 10
Fiber: 50% Cotton/ 50% Acrylic Ball weight: Varies

*Optional if adding fringe, extra yarn 3-4oz of a dk or sport weight cotton or cotton blend yarn Crochet Hook 3.25mm/D
Tapestry needle
Scissors

Stitch Markers
Stitches Used:
Ch: chain
Sl st: slip stitch
Dc: double crochet
Bobble St: 5 dc in the same st, drop your hook, count back 5 st, insert your hook through the 5th st and back onto the dropped loop, sl st, ch1.
NOTE: This pattern is a multiple of 12 for the beginning ch, you can easily manipulate this if the size above doesn’t fit your body type, by adding more or less ch you may also need to adjust the amount of ch1 sp you skip for the armhole shaping.
Instructions:
You will begin by working on the Yoke of the dress.


Make a slip knot and ch 90 (102,108), place a st marker, ch 90 (102, 108) more (180, 204, 216 total) sl st with the first ch forming a circle, making sure not to twist your chain.
Round 1: ch3 (counts as dc), dc in same st, dc in each ch until you reach your st marker, in the ch the st marker is in make [2dc, ch3, 2dc], dc in each ch until you reach the ch3, make 2dc, ch3 in the same sp as the ch3, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Round 2: ch4 (counts as dc, ch1), sk a dc, dc in the next, *ch1, sk a st, dc in next st* repeat from *to* until you reach the ch3, ch1, in the ch3 sp make [dc, ch3, dc] , ch1, dc in the first dc after the ch3, repeat from *to* until you reach the next ch 3 sp, ch1, in the ch3 sp make [dc, ch3, dc], ch1, sl st in the 3rd ch from the first 4 ch at the beginning of the round.
Round 3: ch3(counts as dc) make 4 more dc in same st (drop your st and pass your hook in the first dc, pass it back through the dropped st, sl st together, ch1 [Bobble st made]), dc in the ch sp, dc in next dc, dc in next ch sp, *Make another bobble in next dc (5dc in same st, drop your st, count 5 st, pass your hook in the 5th st, back onto the dropped st, sl st together, ch1), dc in ch1, dc in next dc, dc in ch1* repeat from *to* until you reach the ch3 sp, in the ch3 sp [2dc, ch3, 2dc], Repeat from *to* again until you reach the next ch3 sp, make [2dc, ch3, 2dc] in it, work dc in the dc and ch sp until you reach the first bobble, sl st at the top of the bobble.
Round 4: Repeat Round 2 and fasten off.

Now you will no longer be working in the round, you will be creating the opening for your armholes, working the front and the back separately in rows.
Front armhole shaping

Now you will grab 2 stitch markers and from the ch3 sp, count 15 (17, 18) ch1 sp openings from the ch3 sp on both sides, place your st markers in the ch1 sp.

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You will be working in between those st markers.

Join your yarn in the st that the first st marker is in,
Row 5: 
ch3 (counts as first dc), * dc in next dc, dc in next ch sp* repeat until you reach the ch3 sp, make
[2dc, ch3, 2dc], repeat from *to* until you reach the next st marker. Turn your work
Row 6: ch4 (counts as dc, ch1), *sk a st, dc in next, ch1* , repeat from *to* until you reach the ch3 sp, make [dc, ch3, dc] in ch3 sp, repeat from *to* to last st ending with a dc, turn your work.
Row 7: ch3 (counts as dc) dc in ch sp, *make a bobble st in next dc, dc in ch sp, dc in next dc, dc in ch sp* repeat from *to* until you reach the ch3 sp, [2dc, ch3, 2dc] in ch3 sp, repeat from *to* until the last st, turn your work.
Row 8: Repeat Row 6 sk
Row 9-16 (9-20, 9-28): Repeat Rows 5-8, your peice should fit across your chest to your under arm, if it’s not wide enough you can do another repeat of Rows 5-8.
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Fasten off, You just finished one side of your coverups arm hole shaping, now repeat again on the next side. Repeating all the steps you did for the first side but DO NOT Fasten off on the second side.
Joining the armholes and Body of the dress:


You will be crocheting in the round again, joining the 2 sides together as you go

Making sure your work is right side facing you when you begin this next Round,
Round 17 (21, 29): ch3 (counts as dc), dc in each st until you reach the ch3 sp, [2dc, ch3, 2dc] in ch3sp, dc in each st until you reach the last st from the front, begin your dc but stop when you have 3 loops,
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grab your back and pass your hook through the first st, yarn over and pass your hook through the st and the first 2 loops on your hook, finish off the dc, yarn over through the last 2 loops, dc in each st until you reach the ch3, [2dc, ch3, 2dc] in ch3 sp, dc in each st until you reach the last st from the back, begin a dc but stop when you have 3 loops, you will now pass your hook through the bottom of the ch3 from the beginning of the round, yarn over and pass through the st and the first 2 loops on your hook, yarn over and finish off the dc, sl st with the top of the ch3.
Round 18 (22, 30): sl st into the next dc, ch4 (counts as dc, ch1), sk a dc, dc in the next, *ch1, sk a st, dc in next st* repeat from *to* until you reach the ch3, ch1, in the ch3 sp make [dc, ch3, dc] , Repeat from *to* until you have 2 st left from the front at the underarm,


Sk the next 5 st, ch1, dc in the 6th st, repeat from *to* until you reach the ch3 sp, [dc, ch3, dc] repeat from *to* until you have 3 st left from the back at the underarm, ch1, sl st with the 3rd ch of the ch4.
You will notice that the sides will have a little hexagon/hole opening starting, this will continue through the pattern.

Round 19 (23, 31): sl st into the ch1 sp, ch3 (counts as dc) *make a bobble, dc in next ch sp, dc next dc, dc in next ch sp* repeat from *to* until you reach the ch3 sp, [2dc, ch3, 2dc] in ch3 sp, repeat *to* until you are 1 ch1 sp away from the side seam hexagon/hole


Make a dc in the ch1 sp, sk the side seam hole, dc in next ch1 sp, repeat from *to* until you reach the ch3 sp, [2dc, ch3, 2dc] in ch3 sp, repeat *to* until you are 1 ch1 sp away from the side seam hexagon/hole, dc in the ch1 sp, sk the side seam hole, sl st with top of the ch3.
Round 20 (24, 32): sl st in the next st, ch4 (counts as dc, ch1), sk a dc, dc in the next, *ch1, sk a st, dc in next st* repeat from *to* until you reach the ch3, ch1, in the ch3 sp make [dc, ch3, dc] , Repeat from *to* until you have 2 st before the side seam hole,

Dc in the next st, ch1, sk 2 st, dc in next st, repeat from *to* until you reach the ch3, ch1, in the ch3 sp make [dc, ch3, dc] , Repeat from *to* until you have 2 st before the side seam hole, Dc in the next st, ch1, sl st with the 3rd ch of the ch4.
Round 21 (25, 33): sl st into the ch1 sp, ch3 (counts as dc), dc in each st until you reach the ch3 sp, [2dc, ch3, 2dc] in ch3 sp, dc in each st until you are 1 ch 1 sp away from the side seam, dc in the ch1 sp, sk the ch1 of the side seam hole, ch1, dc in next ch1 sp, dc in each st until you reach the ch3 sp, [2dc, ch3, 2dc] in the ch 3 sp, dc in each st until you are 1 ch1 sp away from the side seam, dc in the ch1 sp, ch1, sl st with the top of the ch 3.
Round 22 (26, 34): Repeat Round 20 (24, 32)
Repeat Rounds 19-22 (23-26, 31-34) until desired length.
Once you reach your desired length, fasten off and hide all loose tails. If you choose you can add fringe to the bottom of your top, just cut desired length of fringe and place 2 strands per st all around your bottom.

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 










All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Saturday, June 1, 2019

Easy Crochet Summer Shell Bucket Bag



Easy Crochet Summer Shell Bucket Bag

By: Annoo Crochet DesignsVideo Link: click here
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Skill level: Intermediate
Size: 11 inches tall, bottom measures about 8 inches wide.You will need:2 skeins of Cascade Yarns Ultra Pima (Dk/#3 weight yarn)
Color: Coral Cloud (3827) Fiber: 100% Pima Cotton Ball weight:100g/220yds
Crochet hook 3.75mm/F Stitch Marker
Scissors
Tapestry Needle

(links below for the following materials) Beading Shells
Big Eye Beading Needle
1 sheet of Plastic canvas

Buckle (to attach handle)
Chain for Strap approximately 23 inches
Large Round Travel Toiletry Bag or Fabric to line your Bag

Links

Beading needle: 

Shells:

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Buckle:

Chain:

Travel Pouch:

Plastic Canvas:

Stitches Used:
Ch: Chain
Sc: Single Crochet Sl st: Slip Stitch

This bag is great, there are many options for beads you can choose from. I chose shells to give my bag a beach theme. You can choose to opt out of any beading if you’d like, just work all your rows even until you reach the joining of the lining and your bag. The plastic canvas will make the bottom of your bag sturdy, you will only be able to hand/spot wash your bag and lay flat to dry. Placing the bag in the washer/dryer may distort or melt the plastic. If you’re like me and sewing is not your thing, then the pouch is the way to go, but if like to sew then you could add a fabric liner of your choosing.
Another note the beading is done about every 8th round, you will cut your yarn, string your beads for that row on the ball and join using the Russian join knot. Then continuing to crochet until you reach the next beading round, repeating that process throughout the bag. Adding all the beads you will need at once will cause stress on your yarn causing it to break as well as the weight on your hands.
Instructions:
Bottom of Bag (make 2)
With your yarn and hook make a slip knot, ch2Round 1: in the 2nd ch from hook make 6 sc, sl st with first scRound 2: ch1, [2sc in each st] 12 sc
Do not join, you will place a stitch maker in the last st of the next round and carry up the marker for each new round to mark the beginning and end of each round.
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Round 3: [sc, 2sc next st] all around 18sc
Round 4: [sc in next 2 st, 2sc next st] all around 24sc
Round 5: [sc in next 3 st, 2 sc next st] all around 30sc
Round 6: [sc in next 4 st, 2 sc next st] all around 36sc
Round 7: [sc in next 5 st, 2 sc next st] all around 42sc
Round 8: [sc in next 6 st, 2 sc next st] all around 48sc
Round 9: [sc in next 7 st, 2 sc next st] all around 54sc
Round 10: [sc in next 8 st, 2 sc next st] all around 60sc
Round 11: [sc in next 9 st, 2 sc next st] all around 66sc
Round 12:[sc in next 10 st, 2 sc next st] all around 72sc
Round 13: [sc in next 11 st, 2 sc next st] all around 78sc
Round 14:[sc in next 12 st, 2 sc next st] all around 84sc
Round 15: [sc in next 13 st, 2 sc next st] all around 90sc
Round 16:[sc in next 14 st, 2 sc next st] all around 96sc
Round 17:[sc in next 15 st, 2 sc next st] all around 102sc
Round 18: [sc in next 16 st, 2 sc next st] all around 108sc
This piece should fit the bottom of your Pouch, if it doesn’t then you can increase or decrease rows as needed.
Fasten off and make your second Bottom Piece, but Do Not Fasten off
You will want to take your first Bottom piece and place it under your plastic canvas, you will now want to trace a circle on the canvas that is 1⁄4 smaller than your Bottom Piece. I used a candle to trace my circle you can just eyeball it or do the same using something similar to trace yours. You will then cut out that circle from the canvas.
Now you will sandwich the canvas between the 2 Bottom pieces. Wrong sides facing the mesh and right sides facing you.

Assemble Bottom Piece:
Try to match the 2 circles evenly, you will now join both Bottom pieces (not the canvas this will float in the middle of the 2 pieces) matching st to st.
Assemble by sc like you have been, passing through the front piece and then through the back piece, make your sc, do this all around your Bottom to assemble both sides together.
Body of the Bag
Round 1: sc in the Back loop only all around, also in this round you will decrease 8 st evenly until you reach the first sc(100sc) making sure to place your stitch marker at the end of your round for each new round.
Round 2-8: sc all around 100sc
Shell Round You will now cut about 5 inches, thread 1 shell on the side your work is, and thread 9 shells on the working yarn (or ball of yarn), you will now join the yarn together using the Magic Knot (https://youtu.be/q3LvwoSWEMs?t=98​ )
Adding your beads this way will ensure you won’t get stuck on the knot as your crochet, some beads won’t pass that knot. Also making sure to bead your shells from the back or inside, this will insure that they lay on the bag just right.
Round 9:*slide the shell closest to your hook (see pic below), you will now sc in the next st, keeping the tension tight but not too tight otherwise your shell won’t hang right, only when adding a shell, sc in next 9 st* repeat from *to* around until you reach your stitch maker 100st



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Rounds 10-16:​ sc all around, moving your marker up as you go
Round 17 (Shell Round): This round will alternate the shells from the Previous shell round, sc in next 4 st, (cut your yarn as you did before and thread your beads, reattach yarn using magic knot and continue) *slide the shell closest to your hook, you will now sc in the next st, keeping the tension tight but not too tight otherwise your shell won’t hang right, only when adding a shell, sc in next 9 st* repeat from *to* around until you reach your stitch maker, you will end with 5sc 100st
Rounds 18-24: sc all around
Repeat Rounds 2-24 until your have 64 rows.

If you are using the Travel Pouch, test for fit, it should just sit below the seam of the drawstring (grey part) you can add or decrease rows if needed at this point.
Putting your work aside and you will now punch several holes in your bag (no sewing needed), you can opt out of punching the holes if you prefer to sew a fabric lining or sew your pouch to your bag. If you do plan to sew your lining, skip down to Finishing the Bag.
Punching Holes:
With a Fabric hole punch, you will want to punch 1 hole every 1 1⁄2” just under the seam of the drawstring (grey part see pic below) you can mark out first before you punch your holes if you wish. You will then make a 2nd hole after the first hole about 1⁄4 “ apart, this will allow you to put your hook through the 2 loops to join the pouch to your bag as you work your sc without having to sew them.
If you need help refer to the video mark 27:07 ( https://youtu.be/vYJxZslZ7-s​ )

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Assemble the Body to the Lining:
You will now place your Lining in your bag and line up the first set of 2 holes with the beginning of your crochet.
1. Pass your hook through the st of your bag,

2. Pass it through the first hole on the lining, then back through the second hole of the lining

3. Yarn over and pull through the lining holes and though the st on your bag, leaving 2 loops on your hook.


4. Yarn over and through both loops.
5. You will now sc about 4 or 5 st until you reach the next set of 2 holes in the lining. Repeat steps 1-5 until you reach the first st you made.
Finishing the Bag:
You will add another round of shells, so just as before cutting your yarn, threading your shells, joining with a magic knot and continue below,
Round 1: Repeat Round 9 Round 2: sc in each st around
Round 3: (joining the buckle for the straps) It is important to attach your Buckles opposite each other and count the stitches in between them, it should match, making sure to join your Buckle halfway past the drawstring
Sc until you reach that point, now join the Buckle, place the buckle in front of your work, pass your hook through the buckle and into the next st, yarn over and back through both the st and the buckle, yarn over and finish off your sc, do this again over the next 4 st, you will have 5 st to hold your buckle to your bag,



Sc your way to the opposite side of the first buckle and you will attach the second the same way as the first, sc your way to the st marker to complete this round.
Round 4: turn your work, sc in each st around, sl st with the first sc and fasten off, hide any loose tails. Lastly add your chain just clip it on the buckle clip and you are done!

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 










All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Monday, May 6, 2019

Petal Dress

Petal Dress
By: Annoo Crochet Designs




Video Link: click here

Skill level: Advanced Beginner/Intermediate
Gauge: In pattern 15st by 9 rows= 4 inches
Size: Small (bust size 32-34), Medium (bust size 36-38), Large (bust size 40-42), XL (bust size 44-46) , 2X (bust size 48-50) and 3x (bust size 52-54)
You will need:
450g (500g, 550g, 600g, 700g, 750g) or 1868 (2077, 2284, 2492, 2907, 3115) yds Wolltraum My Melody 4 ply (fingering weight/#2)
Color: Let it Snow
Fiber: 50% Cotton, 50% Acrylic
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Ball weight: Varies
Crochet hook 3.25mm/D or size to obtain gauge Scissors
Tapestry Needle
Stitch Marker

Stitches Used:
Ch: chain
Sl st: slip stitch
Dc: double crochet
FPDC: Front Post Double Crochet BPDC: Back Post Double Crochet

Instructions:
*You can also work the bodice first then skip to the straps and front panels, then join your yarn back and continue with the skirt of the dress.
*If you wish for your front panels and shoulder straps be the same color as the bodice of the dress you will want to start by putting some of the beginning of the yarn aside. About 3-4 oz, you can use a scale to weigh the ball that you put aside (kitchen scales work great)
Bodice

With your hook and yarn you will make a slip knot and chain 160 (176, 192, 208, 224, 240 ) you will join to the first ch with a sl st, being careful not to twist your chain.
Round1:ch3,skach,Vst(dc,ch1,dc) innextch,*skach,dcinnextch,skach,Vst(dc,ch1,dc)innext ch* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the top of the ch3. You will have 40 ( 44, 48, 52, 56, 60) dc and 40 ( 44, 48, 52, 56, 60) Vst
Round 2: ch3 (counts as dc) , in the ch sp of the Vst work a Vst (dc, ch1, dc) *FPDC around the dc from previous row, in the ch sp of the Vst work a Vst (dc, ch1, dc)*, repeat from *to* around, until you reach the ch 3, do not join you will now work in the round without joining.
Round 3: FPDC around the ch3 from previous round (place your stitch marker on this st to mark the beginning of the round, remember to move it up as you go) *in the ch sp of the Vst work a Vst (dc, ch1, dc), FPDC around the dc from previous round*, repeat from *to* around to the stitch marker , you will end this round by making a Vst in the ch1 sp.
Round 4: *FPDC around the dc from previous round (remember to replace the stitch marker in the first st) in the ch sp of the Vst work a Vst (dc, ch1, dc)*, repeat from *to* around to the stitch marker.
Rounds 5-26: Repeat Round 4

SkirtRound 27: *FPDC around the dc from previous round, in the ch sp work (2dc, ch1, 2dc),*, repeat from
*to* around to the stitch marker.Round 28-33: Repeat Round 27
Round 34: *FPDC around the dc from previous round, sk the first dc from Round 33, dc in the second one, in the ch sp work (2dc, ch1, 2dc) , dc in next dc, sk next dc* repeat from *to* around.
Round 35: *FPDC around the dc from previous round, sk the first 2dc from Round 34, dc in the 3rd one, in the ch sp work (2dc, ch1, 2dc) , dc in next dc, sk next 2dc* repeat from *to* around.
Round 36-43: Repeat Round 35

Round 44: *FPDC around the dc from previous round, sk the first dc from Round 43, dc in the next 2 st, in the ch sp work (2dc, ch1, 2dc) , dc in next 2 dc, sk next dc* repeat from *to* around.

Round 45: *FPDC around the dc from previous round, sk the 2 dc from previous round, dc in the next 2 st, in the ch sp work (2dc, ch1, 2dc) , dc in next 2 dc, sk next 2 dc* repeat from *to* around.
Round 46-51: Repeat Round 45Round 52: *FPDC around the dc from previous round, sk the first dc from Round 51, dc in the next 3 st,
in the ch sp work (2dc, ch1, 2dc) , dc in next 3 dc, sk next dc* repeat from *to* around.




Round 53: *FPDC around the dc from previous round, sk the 2 dc from previous round, dc in the next 3 st, in the ch sp work (2dc, ch1, 2dc) , dc in next 3 dc, sk next 2 dc* repeat from *to* around.
Round 54-59: Repeat Round 53
Round 60: *FPDC around the dc from previous round, sk the first dc from Round 59, dc in the next 4st, in the ch sp work (2dc, ch1, 2dc) , dc in next 4 dc, sk next dc* repeat from *to* around

Round 61: *FPDC around the dc from previous round, sk the 2 dc from previous round, dc in the next 4 st, in the ch sp work (2dc, ch1, 2dc) , dc in next 4 dc, sk next 2 dc* repeat from *to* around.
Round 62-67: Repeat Round 60Round 68: *FPDC around the dc from previous round, sk the first dc from Round 67, dc in the next 5 st,
in the ch sp work (2dc, ch1, 2dc) , dc in next 5 dc, sk next dc* repeat from *to* around
Round 69: *FPDC around the dc from previous round, sk the 2 dc from previous round, dc in the next 5 st, in the ch sp work (2dc, ch1, 2dc) , dc in next 5 dc, sk next 2 dc* repeat from *to* around.
Round 70-75: Repeat Round 69
If you want your dress to be longer you can continue to increase every 8 rows until you reach your desired length. If you don’t want to increase anymore but want to add more length just repeat the last row until desired length. Remember that when making your dress longer you will need more yarn.
Also when testing length, try on your dress, at this point the top of the dress will sit just about center of your breast.
Front V Panels and Straps:

You will want to join your yarn the first Vst from Round 1, your Vst will be going in the opposite direction now but no one will notice. You will be working in the bottom of Round ones sts. Join your yarn with a slip stitch and begin below,
Left Panel & Shoulder Strap (All Sizes)
Row 1: ch4 (counts as dc, ch1) dc in the same sp to make your first Vst * FPDC in the next dc, at the base of the next Vst make a Vst (dc, ch1, dc)* Repeat from *to* until you have 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15) Vst and 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15) FPDC, turn your work.
Row 2: ch3 (counts as first BPDC), in next ch sp make a Vst (dc, ch1, dc), *BPDC around the dc from previous row, Vst (dc, ch1, dc) in next ch sp* repeat from *to* across, turn your work.
Row 3: sl st into the center of the Vst, ch4 (counts as dc, ch1) dc in the same sp to make your first Vst FPDC in the next dc, *in ch sp make a Vst (dc, ch1, dc), FPDC in next dc* Repeat from *to* until you have 1 Vst left, you will sk the Vst and make a FPDC around the last st, turn your work.
Row 4: sk the 2 dc from previous row and make a Vst in the ch sp of the Vst, *BPDC in dc, Vst (dc, ch1, dc) next ch1 sp* repeat from *to* across, turn your work. You will have 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) Vst
Row 5: sl st into the center of the Vst, ch4 (counts as dc, ch1) dc in the same sp to make your first Vst FPDC in the next dc, *in ch sp make a Vst (dc, ch1, dc), FPDC in next dc* Repeat from *to* until you have 1 Vst left, you will dc in the ch sp of the Vst, turn your work.
Rows 6-11: Repeat Rows 4-5, you will have 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10) Vst
For Size SmallRows 12-16: Repeat Rows 4-5, you will have 3 Vst
Rows 17: sl st into the ch1 of the Vst, ch4(counts as dc, ch1), dc in the ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, make a dc in the space after the last Vst, turn your work.
Row 18: ch3 (counts as BPDC), *Vst into the ch1 sp, BPDC in dc* repeat from *to* across, ending with a Vst in the last ch1 sp, turn your work.
Row 19: sl st into the ch1 of the Vst, ch4(counts as dc, ch1), dc in the ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, make a FPDC around the ch3, turn your work.
Rows 20-32: Repeat Rows 18-19, fasten off leaving a long enough tail to either sew or slip stitch your strap to the back.
Size Medium:Rows 12-18: Repeat Rows 4-5, you will have 3 Vst
Rows 19: sl st into the ch1 of the Vst, ch4(counts as dc, ch1), dc in the ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, make a dc in the space after the last Vst, turn your work.
Row 20: ch3 (counts as BPDC), *Vst into the ch1 sp, BPDC in dc* repeat from *to* across, ending with a Vst in the last ch1 sp, turn your work.
Row 21: sl st into the ch1 of the Vst, ch4(counts as dc, ch1), dc in the ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, make a FPDC around the ch3, turn your work.
Rows 22-34: Repeat Rows 18-19, fasten off leaving a long enough tail to either sew or slip stitch your strap to the back.
For Large:Rows 12-17: Repeat Rows 4-5, you will have 4 Vst
Row 18: dc in next ch1 sp,* BPDC in next dc, Vst in next ch1 sp, * repeat from*to* across, turn your work
Rows 19: sl st into the ch1 of the Vst, ch4(counts as dc, ch1), dc in the ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, make a dc in the space after the last Vst, turn your work.
Row 20: ch3 (counts as BPDC), *Vst into the ch1 sp, BPDC in dc* repeat from *to* across, ending with a Vst in the last ch1 sp, turn your work.
Row 21: sl st into the ch1 of the Vst, ch4(counts as dc, ch1), dc in the ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, make a FPDC around the ch3, turn your work.
Rows 22-36: Repeat Rows 18-19, fasten off leaving a long enough tail to either sew or slip stitch your strap to the back.
For X Large:Rows 12-19: Repeat Rows 4-5, you will have 4 Vst
Row 20: dc in next ch1 sp,* BPDC in next dc, Vst in next ch1 sp, * repeat from*to* across, turn your work
Rows 21: sl st into the ch1 of the Vst, ch4(counts as dc, ch1), dc in the ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, make a dc in the space after the last Vst, turn your work.
Row 22: ch3 (counts as BPDC), *Vst into the ch1 sp, BPDC in dc* repeat from *to* across, ending with a Vst in the last ch1 sp, turn your work.
Row 23: sl st into the ch1 of the Vst, ch4(counts as dc, ch1), dc in the ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, make a FPDC around the ch3, turn your work.
Rows 24-38: Repeat Rows 18-19, fasten off leaving a long enough tail to either sew or slip stitch your strap to the back.
For 2X & 3x:Rows 12-21: Repeat Rows 4-5, you will have 4 (5) Vst
Row 22: dc in next ch1 sp,* BPDC in next dc, Vst in next ch1 sp, * repeat from*to* across, turn your work. You will have 3 (4) Vst
Rows 23: sl st into the ch1 of the Vst, ch4(counts as dc, ch1), dc in the ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, make a dc in the space after the last Vst, turn your work.
Row 24: ch3 (counts as BPDC), *Vst into the ch1 sp, BPDC in dc* repeat from *to* across, ending with a Vst in the last ch1 sp, turn your work.
Row 25: sl st into the ch1 of the Vst, ch4(counts as dc, ch1), dc in the ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, make a FPDC around the ch3, turn your work.
Rows 26-40 (26-42): Repeat Rows 18-19, fasten off leaving a long enough tail to either sew or slip stitch your strap to the back
Right Front Panel and Shoulder Strap

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You will find the first Vst after the last FPDC you made on the Left Panel, join your yarn with a sl st at the base of that Vst, Continue below.
Right Panel and Shoulder Strap (all sizes)
Row 1: ch4 (counts as dc, ch1) dc in the same sp to make your first Vst * FPDC in the next dc, at the base of the next Vst make a Vst (dc, ch1, dc)* Repeat from *to* until you have 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15) Vst and 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15) FPDC, turn your work.
Row 2: ch3 (counts as first BPDC), in next ch sp make a Vst (dc, ch1, dc), *BPDC around the dc from previous row, Vst (dc, ch1, dc) in next ch sp* repeat from *to* across, turn your work.
Row 3:​ sk the first Vst, FPDC around next dc, *in ch sp make a Vst (dc, ch1, dc), FPDC in next dc* Repeat from *to* across, your last st will be a FPDC around the ch3, turn your work.
Row 4: ch3 (counts as first BPDC), in next ch sp make a Vst (dc, ch1, dc), *BPDC around the dc from previous row, Vst (dc, ch1, dc) in next ch sp* repeat from *to* across, turn your work. You will have 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14) Vst
Rows 5-11: Repeat Rows 4-5, you will have 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10) Vst
For Size Small OnlyRows 12-15: Repeat Rows 3-4, you will have 3 Vst
Row 16: ch3 (counts as BPDC), *Vst into the ch1 sp, BPDC in dc* repeat from *to* across, ending with a Vst in the last ch1 sp, make a dc in the space after the Vst, turn your work.
Rows 17: ch3 (counts as FPDC), *Vst into the ch1 sp, FPDC in dc* repeat from *to* across, ending with a FPDC around the ch3 from previous row, turn your work.
Row 18: ch3 (counts as BPDC), *Vst into the ch1 sp, BPDC in dc* repeat from *to* across, ending with a BPDC around the ch3 from previous row, turn your work.
Rows 19-32: Repeat Rows 18-19, fasten off leaving a long enough tail to either sew or slip stitch your strap to the back.
Size Medium:Rows 12-17: Repeat Rows 3-5, you will have 3 Vst
Row 18: ch3 (counts as BPDC), *Vst into the ch1 sp, BPDC in dc* repeat from *to* across, ending with a Vst in the last ch1 sp, make a dc in the space after the Vst, turn your work.
Rows 19: ch3 (counts as FPDC), *Vst into the ch1 sp, FPDC in dc* repeat from *to* across, ending with a FPDC around the ch3 from previous row, turn your work.
Row 20: ch3 (counts as BPDC), *Vst into the ch1 sp, BPDC in dc* repeat from *to* across, ending with a BPDC around the ch3 from previous row, turn your work.
Rows 21-34: Repeat Rows 19-20, fasten off leaving a long enough tail to either sew or slip stitch your strap to the back.
For Large:Rows 12-17: Repeat Rows 3-4, you will have 4 Vst
Row 18: ch3 (counts as BPDC), Vst in next ch1 sp,* BPDC in next dc,​ ​Vst in next ch1 sp* repeat form *to* across leaving the last Vst, make a dc in the space after the last Vstturn your work. You will have 3 Vst
Rows 19: ch3(counts as FPDC), Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC around the ch3 from previous row, turn your work.
Row 20: ch3 (counts as BPDC), *Vst into the ch1 sp, BPDC in dc* repeat from *to* across, ending with a BPDC around the ch3 from previous row, turn your work.
Rows 21-36: Repeat Rows 19-20, fasten off leaving a long enough tail to either sew or slip stitch your strap to the back.
For X Large:Rows 12-19: Repeat Rows 3-4, you will have 4 Vst
Row 20: ch3 (counts as BPDC), Vst in next ch1 sp,* BPDC in next dc,​ ​Vst in next ch1 sp* repeat form *to* across leaving the last Vst, make a dc in the space after the last Vstturn your work. You will have 3 Vst
Rows 21: ch3(counts as FPDC), Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC around the ch3 from previous row, turn your work.
Row 22: ch3 (counts as BPDC), *Vst into the ch1 sp, BPDC in dc* repeat from *to* across, ending with a BPDC around the ch3 from previous row, turn your work.
Rows 23-38: Repeat Rows 21-22, fasten off leaving a long enough tail to either sew or slip stitch your strap to the back.
For 2X & 3x:Rows 12-21: Repeat Rows 3-4, you will have 4 (5) Vst
Row 22: ch3 (counts as BPDC), Vst in next ch1 sp,* BPDC in next dc,​ ​Vst in next ch1 sp* repeat form *to* across leaving the last Vst, make a dc in the space after the last Vstturn your work. You will have 3 Vst
Rows 23: ch3(counts as FPDC), Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC in dc, Vst in ch1 sp, FPDC around the ch3 from previous row, turn your work.
Row 24: ch3 (counts as BPDC), *Vst into the ch1 sp, BPDC in dc* repeat from *to* across, ending with a BPDC around the ch3 from previous row, turn your work.
Rows 25-40 (25-42): Repeat Rows 23-24, fasten off leaving a long enough tail to either sew or slip stitch your strap to the back.
Assemble the Straps
You will now turn your work wrong side out. Time to Attach the Straps
Count 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7) Vst from the side of the front panel to the back, place a st marker in the 5th (5th, 6th, 6th, 7th, 7th ) Vst, you will now sew or slip stitch from the dc after the stitch marker, join matching stitch for stitch from the strap and the back of the dress, once you have attached the first strap repeat these steps for the second strap.
Hide all loose tails and you are done!
Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 











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