Thursday, May 17, 2018

Easy Crochet Ombre Handbag

Easy Crochet Ombre Handbag

By: Annoo Crochet Designs
Video Link:click here
Skill level: Intermediate
Gauge: Approximately 12 rows of the pattern by 12 st= 4 inches
Finished Size: About 16 inches tall by 13 inches wide
You will need:
Cascade Ultra Pima Cotton yarn (dk weight #3) Color: 2 skeins in (3718) Natural
1 Skein in (3835) White Asparagus 1 skein in (3834) Reed
1 Skein in (3801) Silver
1 Skein in (3729) Gray
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Fiber: 100% Pima Cotton
Ball weight: 100g/220yds Crochet hooks 2.75mm/C, 3.25mm/D Scissors
Tapestry needle
Leather for the bottom
Leather Punch
Compass to mark the leather
Ruler and Marker

Handles click here
2 D rings click here
Stitches Used:
Ch: chain
Sc: single crochet
Dc: double crochet
Sl st: slip stitch
St: stitch
V stitch: dc, ch1, dc in the same space

Instructions:
With your compass and your leather (on the side that will be the inside of your Bag) you will mark a 13 inch circle. Once you have the circle marked out you will then cut out your circle.

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Once your circle is cut you will now take your ruler and marker and mark every 1⁄2 inch or so, making sure that you have a multiple of 3 dots around the leather circle.
With your Leather punch you will punch out your dots about 1⁄2 inch in from the edge.

Body of the Bag:
Now you will work the body of the bag with your main color yarn (natural).
Round 1: Take your smaller hook and yarn and put it in one of the holes on your leather circle, wrap your yarn around your hook and pass the yarn through the hole, make a ch, in the next hole you will make a sc, repeat that around for each hole make a sc in each hole, making sure that you dont make your sc too tight, sl st with the first sc you made.
Round 2: (switch to larger hook) ch1, sc in the same st, *ch2, sk 2 st, sc in the 3rd * repeat from *to* around ending with a ch2, sl st with the first sc you made.
Grab your next color for your bag (White Asparagus)
Round 3: Join your color (Do not fasten off the Cream Color you will pick up again in the next round), *in the ch2 sp make 3dc in it, ch1* repeat from *to* around sl st with the first dc, join your Cream yarn leaving the (White Asparagus) in the back of your work you will pick it up in the next round.
Round 4: you will be working in the sc from Round 2

In that first sc from Round 2 you will make (dc, ch1, dc)

*Find the next sc from round 2 make a V stitch (dc, ch1, dc)* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the top of the first dc.
Round 5: picking up your (White Asparagus) yarn again, sl st in the first ch1 sp of the V stitch from Round 4, ch3(counts as first dc), make 2 more dc in the same sp, ch1, *in next ch1 sp of the V stitch make 3dc, ch1* repeat *to* around sl st with the first dc.
Round 6: Drop the White Asparagus yarn and pick up the Cream yarn, you will now work your new stitches into the space between the V stitches of Round 4

In that space you will make a V stitch (dc, ch1, dc), you will repeat that all around making a V stitch in the space between V stitches from Round 4, sl st with the first dc.
Rounds 7-14: You will repeat Rounds 5 and 6
At the end of Round 14 fasten off the White Asparagus yarn, keeping the Cream color attached, you will

use this throughout the bag.
For the next section you will Join your Reed color yarn and continue in pattern.
Rounds 15-26: Repeat Rounds 5 and 6, at the end of Round 26 fasten off the Reed yarn.
You will now Join your Silver yarn and continue in pattern again as follows:
Rounds 27-38: Repeat Rounds 5 and 6, at the end of Round 38 fasten off the Silver yarn.
You will now join your last color Gray and continue in pattern:
Rounds 39-50: Repeat Rounds 5 and 6, You will end your bag with a round of Cream V stitches. At the end of Round 50 fasten off the Gray and Cream yarn and hide all loose tails.
Adding the Hardware:
Fold your bag in half and at the 2 last rows of your Silver yarn you will attach your D rings. You can sew them or Crochet them on like I have.

With your Silver yarn and larger hook, you will pass your hook through the stitch of the bag then under the D ring, grab the yarn with the hook, and draw through the stitch, you will then ch1, remember to work around the st and the Ring, make 2 sc in each st from Rounds 36-38, once you have about 12 st you are going to fasten off.

Sew in all the loose tails in the back of your work. Repeat this again for the other D ring on the other side of your bag.
You can now line your bag, I had my amazing mother in law line mine, she put something stiff at the bottom, and put the fabric up to the last Round of the Silver color. Its best to have it lined as things can fall out of our crochet projects. Of course, if you cant line yours, use cosmetic bags with zippers to hold your little items.
Attach the Leather Drawstring Tassel:
Pass one end through your bag about every 2 V stitches at the Rounds where the Gray and Silver meet. Attach the tassel, add your Straps and you are done with your Beautiful Bag.
Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 







All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Girl’s Spring Wavy Little Dress

Girl’s Spring Wavy Little Dress




By: Annoo Crochet Designs
Video Link:click here
Skill level: Intermediate
Gauge: 16dc x 9 rows = 4 inches
I crochet on the looser side, you may need to go up in hook size to meet the gauge.

Size: Child sizes 2-3 (4-5, 6-7)
Infant sizes 0-3, (6-9, 12) months, written instructions can be found at the end of the pattern for the Child sizes.
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You will need:
You can sub any DK/Sports Weight yarn in your color choices I used: 5 (5, 6) skeins of Katia Cotton Ombre Yarn (dk/sport weight yarn #3)
Color: Greens
Fiber: 100% Cotton
Ball weight:150g/642yd (each skein is about 25g)

Crochet hook 2.75mm /C Scissors
Tapestry needle
Stitch markers Measuring Tape

Tip:
For Choosing yarns:
Don’t want to use or can’t find Katia Cotton Ombre you can sub another dk/sports weight yarn as longas it fits the gauge. Just choose 6 colors from the same family from light to dark, I used 5 of the 6 colors for the size 4-5 dress, the 6th color for the border edge of the neck.
On Changing Colors: To join your new colors through the skirt part of the pattern when instructed try doing so in the last st of the round like so:
Make your last sc, but don’t yo through the 2 loops to close the stitch, join your new color yarn by making a loop and grabbing it with your hook, pull it through the 2 loops to close the stitch. Now you are
all set to continue with the new color. Secure the old color and the new color then continue with the pattern.
Instructions:
With your hook and lightest color yarn make a slip knot and chain 92, (100, 108), sl st with the first ch, making sure not to twist your chain
Round 1: ch3 (counts as dc), dc in each ch around, do not join you will work in the round, using a stitch marker place it on the first st of the next round, be sure to move it up as you go. 92, (100, 108) dc in total.
Round 2: dc in each st around. 92, (100, 108) dc in total
Repeat Round 2 until your top measures 2 3⁄4 (3 1⁄4 , 4) inches, At the end of the last round you will make a

hdc in the next st and sl st in the next one, then Fasten off.
Shoulder straps:

Put your work so Row 1 is on the top, this is where you will build your shoulders from.
Then counting at the right side of your work count 8 (9, 9) st in, you will join your lightest color yarn in the 9th (10th,10th)st.
Row 1: ch3 (counts as dc), dc in the next 5 (7, 7) st, 6 (8, 8) dc total. Turn your workRow 2: ch3 (counts as dc) dc in the next 5 (7, 7) dc, 6 (8, 8) dc total. Turn your work.
Repeat row 2 until your work measures 9 1⁄2 (9 1⁄2, 10) inches measuring from Row 1 of your strap,

You will now turn your work inside out, so the wrong side is facing you. You will sl st the strap to the back of your top. Count 16 (18, 18) dc from the right side of your strap, in the 17(19th ,19th) st you will join your strap, sl st along the next 6, (8, 8) st of the strap and body of your dress, matching st for st. Once your strap is attached you will fasten off, turn your work right side to.
You will want to repeat all the steps of the shoulder strap for the second strap.
Skirt
For Sizes 2/3 you will work Rounds 1-33 you will only use 4 of the 6 colors of Katia Cotton Ombre
For Sizes 4/5 you will work Rounds 1-43, you will only use 5 of the 6 colors of the Katia Cotton Ombre
For Sizes 6/7 you will work Rounds 1-53, you will use all 6 colors of the Katia Cotton Ombre
You can choose to change your colors at any point to make your own Ombre effect, just make sure to follow the instruction written for the rounds only changing were you will add your new color.
Put your work with the straps facing down. With your next darkest color you will want to join your yarn at one of the stitches at the side of your work.
The Puff Shell pattern is worked in a multiple of 18, you will need to increase by 34,(44, 54) st, you can do this over the next 3 rows or in the first row, either way be sure to increase evenly. You will sc in the BLO throughout the pattern unless otherwise stated.
Round 1: sc in each st around, making your increases as you go.
Place st maker in the first st of the new round be sure to move it up as you go.

Round 2-3: repeat round 1, if you made all your increases in Round 1 then work these 2 rounds even you will have 126, (144, 162) sc.
Round 4: *ch2, sk 6st, in the 7th st (working in both loops for this st) make dc in that st (ch1, dc)6 times, (you will have 7dc with a ch1 in between for your fan), ch2, sk 6, in the next 5 st make a sc in the BLO*, repeat from *to* around
Round 5: *ch2, in the first ch1 sp make a puff st (see Stitches Used above for help), ch1, (make a puff stitch in the next ch1 sp, ch1) 4 times, in the last ch1 sp make a puff stitch (you will have 6 puff stitches in total) , ch2, sk the first sc from previous round, sc in the next 3 st in the BLO,* repeat from *to* around
Round 6: in the ch2 from the previous round make 2sc, sc in the top of the puff and in between the ch sp, sc in each of the 3 sc (BLO), repeat that around until you reach the stitch marker or the first sc you made, You will have 126, (144, 162) sc.
Round 7-8: (BLO) sc in each st around.
The next 2 rounds we will make the puff shell pattern again, but this time it will alternate, so you will

have a Shell in between the Puff Shell from the previous round of Shells.

Round 9: ch 2, sk 6st, in the next 5 st make a sc in the BLO (if doing this correctly your sc will line up with the puff shell pattern from the previous rounds), ch2, sk 6 st, in the 7th st (working in both loops for
this st) make dc in that st (ch1, dc)6 times, (you will have 7dc with a ch1 in between for your fan)*, repeat from *to* around
Round 10: ch2, sk the first sc from the previous round, sc in the BLO over the next 3 st, ch2, in the first ch1 sp make a puff st (see Stitches Used above for help), ch1, (make a puff stitch in the next ch1 sp, ch1) 4 times, in the last ch1 sp make a puff stitch (you will have 6 puff stitches in total)
Round 11: in the ch2 from the previous round make 2sc, sc in each of the 3 sc (BLO), sc in the top of the puff and in between the ch sp, repeat that around until you reach 1 st before the stitch marker, make a sc in the last st, but before you finish yarning over and pulling through the loops to close off the stitch, join your next color yarn by grabbing the yarn making a loop and pulling through the 2 loops on your hook closing your st and you now have joined your yarn, fasten off the previous color and secure the 2, You will have 126, (144, 162) sc.
Round 12-13: (BLO) sc in each st around.
As you go you will want to make sure that the Puff shell pattern alternates with the previous one in the

round below.
Round 14: repeat Round 4 with the exception that the after the first ch 2 you will not skip 6 st, you will need to find the 3sc from the previous puff stitch round and follow up the middle st, that will be your first fan, then follow the pattern as written after the first fan (7dc with ch1 in between) .
Rounds 25-21: repeat Rounds 5-11
Rounds 22-23: 
Repeat Rounds 12-13
Rounds 24-31: 
Repeat Rounds 14-21
Rounds 32-33: 
Repeat Rounds 12-13 (for size 2/3 fasten off here and hide all loose tails)Rounds 32-41: Repeat Rounds 14-21
Rounds 42-43: Repeat Rounds 12-13 (for size 4/5 fasten off here and hide all loose tails)Rounds 44-51: Repeat Rounds 14-21
Rounds 52-53: 
Repeat Rounds 12-13 (for size 6/7 fasten off here and hide all loose tails)
If you wish for any of the sizes you can make it longer by repeating rounds 14-21 as many times as you need just remember to end with 3 rows of sc. Same if you want to make it shorter for a top maybe, just remember to end with 3 rows of sc.
For all sizes:
Neck and Shoulder Border:
with your hook and of the color yarns you choose join your yarn to any of the stitch at the back of the neck edge, ch1, you will sc in the top of the dc, and in the side of the rows of the strap you will make 2 sc in each row along the shoulder, sc in each dc in the front of your neck and 2sc in the dc rows along the other strap, sc in each st until you reach the first sc you made, sl st with it and fasten off.
Underarm and Shoulder Border:
With your hook and the same yarn you used for the neck edging join your yarn to any st, ch1, sc in each of the dc as they present themselves, and 2sc in each of the dc rows of the strap, sc until you reach the first sc you made, sl st with it and fasten off, repeat the same thing for the other Armhole opening, fasten off and hide all loose tails.
Flower (for all sizes)
With the any of the lighter yarns and your hook make a magic circle
Round 1: ch3 (counts as dc), make 11dc in the magic circle, pull on the tail of the magic circle to close it, sl st with the ch3, fasten off leaving a tail long enough to sew to the dress later.
Join your next darkest yarn color in any st but in the BLO, ch1

Round 2: *in the next st make (sc, hdc, 4dc, hdc, sc) sl st in the next st* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the first st you made. Fasten off. You will have 6 group of petals. Fasten off and Hide all but the tail you left for sewing to your dress. You will attach your flower to either front Shoulder strap.
Infant Pattern:
Sizes 0-3, (6-9, 12) monthsYou will need:You can sub any DK/Sports Weight yarn in your color choices I used: 5 (5, 6) skeins of Katia Cotton Ombre Yarn (dk/sport weight yarn #3)
Color: Greens Fiber: 100% Cotton
Ball weight:150g/642yd (each skein is about 25g) Crochet hook 2.75mm /C
Scissors Tapestry needle Stitch markers Measuring Tape
Stitches Used:
Sc: single crochet
Hdc: Half double crochet Dc: double crochet
Ch: chain
BLO: Back Loops Only YO: Yarn Over

Puff Stitch: yo, insert hook in ch sp, yo and pull through sp, repeat that 3 more times you will have 9 loops on your hook (keeping a loose tension as you will need to pull your yarn through 8 loops), YO and pull through 8 of the loops (you will have 2 loops left) Yo and pull through the 2 loops.
Tip:
For Choosing yarns:
Don’t want to use or can’t find Katia Cotton Ombre you can sub another dk/sports weight yarn as longas it fits the gauge. Just choose 6 colors from the same family from light to dark, I used 5 of the 6 colors for the size 4-5 dress, the 6th color for the border edge of the neck.
On Changing Colors: To join your new colors through the skirt part of the pattern when instructed try doing so in the last st of the round like so:
Make your last sc, but don’t yo through the 2 loops to close the stitch, join your new color yarn bymaking a loop and grabbing it with your hook, pull it through the 2 loops to close the stitch. Now you are all set to continue with the new color. Secure the old color and the new color then continue with the pattern.
Instructions:
With your hook and lightest color yarn make a slip knot and chain 68, (76, 80), sl st with the first ch, making sure not to twist your chain
Round 1: ch3 (counts as dc), dc in each ch around, do not join you will work in the round, using a stitch marker place it on the first st of the next round, be sure to move it up as you go. 68, (76, 80) dc in total.
Round 2: dc in each st around. 68, (76, 80) dc in total
Repeat Round 2 until your top measures 2 1⁄4 (2 3⁄4, 2 3⁄4) inches, At the end of the last round you will make

a hdc in the next st and sl st in the next one, then Fasten off.
Shoulder straps:

Put your work so Row 1 is on the top, this is where you will build your shoulders from.
Then counting at the right side of your work count 5 (6, 6) st in, you will join your lightest color yarn in the 6 (7,7) st.
Row 1: ch3 (counts as dc), dc in the next 4 (5, 5) st, 5 (6, 6) dc total. Turn your workRow 2: ch3 (counts as dc) dc in the next 4 (5, 5) dc, 5 (6, 6) dc total. Turn your work.
Repeat row 2 until your work measures 6 1⁄2 (7, 7 1⁄2) inches measuring from Row 1 of your strap,

You will now turn your work inside out, so the wrong side is facing you. You will sl st the strap to the back of your top. Count 10 (12, 12) dc from the right side of your strap, in the 11th (13th ,13th) st you will join your strap, sl st along the next 5 (6, 6) st of the strap and body of your dress, matching st for st. Once your strap is attached you will fasten off, turn your work right side to.
You will want to repeat all the steps of the shoulder strap for the second strap.
Skirt
For Sizes 0-3 you will work Rounds 1-23 you will only use 4 of the 6 colors of Katia Cotton Ombre
For Sizes 6-9 you will work Rounds 1-33, you will only use 5 of the 6 colors of the Katia Cotton Ombre
For Sizes 12 you will work Rounds 1-43, you will use all of the 6 colors of the Katia Cotton Ombre
You can choose to change your colors at any point to make your own Ombre effect, just make sure to follow the instruction written for the rounds only changing were you will add your new color.
Put your work with the straps facing down. With your next darkest color you will want to join your yarn at one of the stitches at the side of your work.
The Puff Shell pattern is worked in a multiple of 18, you will need to increase by 22, (32, 28) st, you will increase all your stitches for Infant sizes in the first round. You will sc in the BLO throughout the pattern unless otherwise stated.
Round 1: sc in each st around, increasing 22, (32, 28) st evenly as you go. You will have 90 (108, 108) sc in total.
Place st maker in the first st of the new round be sure to move it up as you go.
Round 2-3: sc in each st around
Round 4: *ch2, sk 6st, in the 7th st (working in both loops for this st) make dc in that st (ch1, dc)6 times, (you will have 7dc with a ch1 in between for your fan), ch2, sk 6, in the next 5 st make a sc in the BLO*, repeat from *to* around
Round 5: *ch2, in the first ch1 sp make a puff st (see Stitches Used above for help), ch1, (make a puff stitch in the next ch1 sp, ch1) 4 times, in the last ch1 sp make a puff stitch (you will have 6 puff stitches in total) , ch2, sk the first sc from previous round, sc in the next 3 st in the BLO,* repeat from *to* around
Round 6: in the ch2 from the previous round make 2sc, sc in the top of the puff and in between the ch sp, sc in each of the 3 sc (BLO), repeat that around until you reach the stitch marker or the first sc you made, You will have 90 (108, 108) sc.
Round 7-8: (BLO) sc in each st around.
The next 2 rounds we will make the puff shell pattern again, but this time it will alternate, so you will

have a Shell in between the Puff Shell from the previous round of Shells.

Round 9: ch 2, sk 6st, in the next 5 st make a sc in the BLO (if doing this correctly your sc will line up with the puff shell pattern from the previous rounds), ch2, sk 6 st, in the 7th st (working in both loops for this st) make dc in that st (ch1, dc)6 times, (you will have 7dc with a ch1 in between for your fan)*, repeat from *to* around
Round 10: ch2, sk the first sc from the previous round, sc in the BLO over the next 3 st, ch2, in the first ch1 sp make a puff st (see Stitches Used above for help), ch1, (make a puff stitch in the next ch1 sp, ch1) 4 times, in the last ch1 sp make a puff stitch (you will have 6 puff stitches in total)
Round 11: in the ch2 from the previous round make 2sc, sc in each of the 3 sc (BLO), sc in the top of the puff and in between the ch sp, repeat that around until you reach 1 st before the stitch marker, make a sc in the last st, but before you finish yarning over and pulling through the loops to close off the stitch, join your next color yarn by grabbing the yarn making a loop and pulling through the 2 loops on your hook closing your st and you now have joined your yarn, fasten off the previous color and secure the 2, You will have 90 (108, 108) sc.
Round 12-13: (BLO) sc in each st around.
As you go you will want to make sure that the Puff shell pattern alternates with the previous one in the

round below.
Round 14: repeat Round 4 with the exception that the after the first ch 2 you will not skip 6 st, you will need to find the 3sc from the previous puff stitch round and follow up the middle st, that will be your first fan, then follow the pattern as written after the first fan (7dc with ch1 in between) .
Rounds 25-21: repeat Rounds 5-11
Rounds 22-23: 
Repeat Rounds 12-13 (for size 0-3 months fasten off here and hide all loose tails)Rounds 24-31: Repeat Rounds 14-21
Rounds 32-33: 
Repeat Rounds 12-13 (for size 6-9 months fasten off here and hide all loose tails)Rounds 32-41: Repeat Rounds 14-21
Rounds 42-43: 
Repeat Rounds 12-13 (for size 12 months fasten off here and hide all loose tails)
If you wish for any of the sizes you can make it longer by repeating rounds 14-21 as many times as you need just remember to end with 3 rows of sc. Same if you want to make it shorter for a top maybe, just remember to end with 3 rows of sc.
For all sizes:
Neck and Shoulder Border:
with your hook and of the color yarns you choose join your yarn to any of the stitch at the back of the neck edge, ch1, you will sc in the top of the dc, and in the side of the rows of the strap you will make 2 sc in each row along the shoulder, sc in each dc in the front of your neck and 2sc in the dc rows along the other strap, sc in each st until you reach the first sc you made, sl st with it and fasten off.
Underarm and Shoulder Border:
With your hook and the same yarn you used for the neck edging join your yarn to any st, ch1, sc in each of the dc as they present themselves, and 2sc in each of the dc rows of the strap, sc until you reach the first sc you made, sl st with it and fasten off, repeat the same thing for the other Armhole opening, fasten off and hide all loose tails.
Flower (for all sizes)
With the any of the lighter yarns and your hook make a magic circle
Round 1: ch3 (counts as dc), make 11dc in the magic circle, pull on the tail of the magic circle to close it, sl st with the ch3, fasten off leaving a tail long enough to sew to the dress later.
Join your next darkest yarn color in any st but in the BLO, ch1

Round 2: *in the next st make (sc, hdc, 4dc, hdc, sc) sl st in the next st* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the first st you made. Fasten off. You will have 6 group of petals. Fasten off and Hide all but the tail you left for sewing to your dress. You will attach your flower to either front Shoulder strap.
Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 







All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Wednesday, April 18, 2018

Easy Crochet Kimono/Cardigan

Easy Crochet Kimono/Cardigan
By: Annoo Crochet Designs

Video Link: click here
Skill level: Intermediate
Gauge: 19 dc st x 10 dc rows = 4 inches
Size: Small/Medium (Large, XLarge)
You will need: 5 (6, 8) skeins of Lang Yarns DiPinto (Fingering weight yarn)
Color: 1762
Fiber: 50%wool, 50% Acrylic
Ball weight: 394yds/100g/ 3.53oz per skein
 Crochet hook E/3.5mm
Tapestry needle Scissors Stitch Markers
Stitches Used:
Ch: Chain
 Sc: Single Crochet
Dc: Double Crochet
Dc2tog: Double Crochet 2 together

 Instructions:

Back:
Make a slip knot with your yarn and ch 86, (90, 96)
Row 1: dc in the 3rd chain from hook, dc in each st across the ch, 84, (88, 84) dc in total, turn your work.
Rows 2-40, (2-44, 2-48): ch3 (counts as first dc), Do not dc in the same st as the ch3, dc in each of the next st across, 84, (88, 84) Dc in total, turn your work.
Fasten off.
You will now create the opening for your armholes, skip 9, (10, 11) st from the right of your sweater, join your yarn in the 10th, (11th ,12th) st with a slip st.

 Row 41 (45, 48): ch3 (counts as first dc), Do not dc in the same st as the ch3, dc across your work until there are 9, (10, 11) stitches left.
Turn your work, you will have 66, (68, 72) st.
Row 42-54, (46-61, 49-66): ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in each st across.
Turn your work, 66, (68, 72) st.

Sleeves DO NOT Fasten Off, you will be working on your first sleeve. It is not how you would normally make one but no worries it’ll be easy. ch35 (38, 41),
make sure not to twist your ch, sl st with the first dc from the skipped stitches of the sleeve opening.

Round 1: ch3, over the 9, (10, 11) skipped st and the 14, (16, 18) side rows you will want to pick up 35, (38, 41) dc, once you reach your chain you will make a dc in each and every chain, do not sl st to end the round you will now place your stitch marker in the first st of the next round to mark the beginning and end of your round, be sure to move up the marker as you go. 70, (76, 82) st in total

Rounds 2-10: dc in each st around
Round 11: (dc2tog,dc in next 14st) repeat that around till you reach the marker (For Decrease Rounds throughout: If you will not be able to make a full repeat up to the stitch marker that is ok, just work a dc per stitch until you reach it. )
Rounds 12-15: dc in each st around
Round 16: (dc2tog, dc in next 12st) repeat that all around till you reach the marker
Rounds 17-20: dc in each st around
Round 21: (dc2tog, dc in next 10st) repeat that around till you reach the marker
Rounds 22-25: dc in each st around
Round 26: (dc2tog, dc in next 9st) repeat that around till you reach the marker
Rounds 27-30: dc in each st around
Round 31: (dc2tog, dc in next 8st) repeat that around till you reach the marker
Rounds 32-34: dc in each st around *Stop here for Small/Medium size Sl st with the first dc and fasten off. Continue below for other sizes)

Round 35: (dc2tog, dc in next 7st) repeat that around until you reach the st marker Rounds 36-39: dc in each st around.
*Stop here for Large size, sl st with the first dc and fasten off.
Continue below for Xlarge sizes)
Round 40: (dc2tog, dc in next 7 st) repeat that around till you reach the marker
Rounds 41-44: dc in each st around At the end of
Round 44, sl st with the next dc and fasten off your work. You will repeat the Sleeve rows for the other sleeve, join your yarn in the top corner dc with a sl st and begin your ch, proceed as stated above for the size you are making.

Front Panel of the Kimono
Working from the right side of your work, you will join the yarn at the bottom corner of your sweater,

Row 1: ch3, 2 dc in each of the side of the rows until you reach your sleeve, you will count 2 dc from the bottom of the sleeve and sl st in it,



 Ch3, count 2 more st from the sleeve and sl st in it and turn your work around.
Row 2: dc in each st across, turn your work.
Row 3-4 (3-6, 3-7): repeat rows 1 & 2
Row 5 (7, 8): ch3, dc in each st until you reach the sleeve, you will now dc in each st of the sleeve, when you reach the last st of your sleeve you will then turn your work.
Row 6-7 (8-9, 9-11): ch3, dc in each st across, turn your work.
Row 8 (10, 12): ch3, dc in each st across until you reach the last 3 st, make 2 dc in the next st, dc in the last 2 st. turn your work.
Row 9 (11, 13): ch3, dc in each st across, turn your work.
Row 10-16 (12-19, 14-21):
Repeat Rows 8 & 9 fasten off.
You will repeat these steps for the other front panel but you will be starting on the wrong side of your work, you will make your join at the bottom corner of your back like you did before just starting on the wrong side of your work. Once you have both panels done now you will assemble the shoulder seams.
With your work wrong side facing you, (you may use your tapestry needle and sew this if you wish, but you all know my love of sewing😊 )
You will count from the sleeve on the back panel, 21 (22, 24) st in the 22 nd , (23rd,25th) st place a stitch marker, you will now match your front panel to the back in between the stitch marker, sl st the front and backs together, assembling your first shoulder seam. Fasten off and repeat for the other shoulder.
You will have 24 st left from the back for your Collar for all sizes. Turn your work right side facing you and continue. Finishing the front panels and Collar: You will now work both sides and the neck together in one row. With your yarn, join at the bottom of one of the bottom corners with a slip stitch.
Row 17 (20, 22): ch3, dc in each st until you reach the back of your work, dc in each of the back st until you reach the other side panel, dc in each st until you reach the last 3 st, 2dc in the next st, 1 dc in the next 2 st, turn your work
Row 18-30 (21-36, 23-38): ch3, dc in each st until you reach the last 3 st, 2dc in next st, dc in each of the last 2 st, turn your work.
At the end of Row 30, (36, 38) Do Not Fasten off your work you will now work 1 row of sc around the entire edge of your Kimono Cardigan. Border: Ch1, working in the side of your rows you will work 2sc in each row, continue this until you reach the back, 1sc in each st of the back of your work, 2sc in each of the front panel rows until you reach the corner of the bottom, make 2sc in the corner and pick up sc in each st around until you reach the first sc you made, sl st with it and fasten off. Hide all loose tails in the back of your work and you are done!! What do you think? I think it is so beautiful and supper under stated and classy, but a little edgy with the aasymetrical front panels, I am in love with this Kimono. ❤

Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 







All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo

Manly Man Easy Crochet sweater

Manly Man’s Sweater

 By: Annoo Crochet Designs


Video Link:click here
Skill level: Intermediate
Size: Medium (Large, Extra Large, 2X)

You will need: 3 (3, 3, 4) Skeins of Stitches Studio by Nicole in Earthtone (#4, Aran weight)
 Color: Gray
Fiber: 95% Acrylic, 5% Viscose
Ball weight: 9.8oz/612yds/250g
Crochet hook 6.5mm/K
Tapestry needle Scissors Stitch markers

 Stitches Used:
 Sc: single crochet
Dc: double crochet
Seed Stitch:
R1:ch1, sc in next st, dc in the next st, across R2: ch1, sc in the dc from previous row dc on the sc from previous row, You will alternate these 2 rows to make the seed stitch pattern.

Decrease: for this pattern when ever you decrease it will be over 2 stitches twice. You will want to make your decreases in pattern, to determine your decrease you will first need to know what the next stitch in your pattern will be, if it is a dc then you will DC2TOG, then SC2TOG, to keep in pattern. Though if your next stitch is a sc then it would be the opposite, SC2TOG, then DC2TOG. Gauge: 11st x 9 rows in seed st= 4 inches

Instructions:

With your hook and yarn make a slip knot and chain 116(128,132,138) slip stitch with the first chain, making sure not to twist your chain.
Round 1: ch3, dc in each of the chains around, sl st in the ch3. You will have 116(128,132,138) dc in total
Round 2: ch1, sc in the first st, dc in the next, *sc in next st, dc in next st* repeat from *to* around your work, sl st with the ch1. You will turn you work. 116(128,132,138) st in total. Even though we are working in the round you will turn your work at the end of each round to make the stitch pattern that is needed for this sweater.
Round 3: ch1, *sc in the dc from previous round, dc in the sc from previous round* repeat from *to* around, sl st with the ch 1. Turn you work, you will have 132 st in total. Make sure that you are alternating you stitches per row, so if there is a sc from the previous round you will dc in it and vice versa.
Repeat Round 3 for 18 ½” (19”, 20”, 21”) This length is from the hip to your underarm, if you need more or less, just make more or less rounds of Round 3.
Continue to the sleeve opening.

 Sleeve Opening and Back:

 Repeating Round 3 over the next 49(54,54, 57) st, you will turn your work.
Continue in pattern over the 49 (54,54, 57) st, turning your work at the end of every row for 5 ½” (6”, 6”, 7”).
You will have 49(54,54,57)st in total

Back Shoulder:

Continue working in pattern but over the first 13 (15, 15, 16) st for 4 rows (for all sizes).
Make sure that you are alternating you stitches per row, so if there is a sc from the previous round you will dc in it and vice versa. Fasten off your work.

You will now count in 13 (15, 15, 16) st from the other shoulder and join your yarn.
Continue working in pattern but over those 13 (15, 15, 16) st for 4 rows (for all sizes) on the second half of the shoulder.

Sleeve Opening and Front: Counting 9 (10, 12, 12) st from the back and place a stitch marker.


On the opposite side count 9 (10, 12, 12) st towards the front from the back and place a stitch maker, these stitches will be used later for the sleeves.

Join your yarn in the stitch after the first stitch marker, Repeating Round 3 over the next 49(54,54, 57) st, you will turn your work. Continue in pattern over the 49 (54,54, 57) st, turning your work at the end of every row. Work for 4.5” (5”, 5”, 6”). You will have 49(54,54, 57)st in total.


Front Shoulder: Continue working in pattern but over the first 13 (15, 15, 16) st for 6 rows (for all sizes).

Make sure that you are alternating you stitches per row, so if there is a sc from the previous round you will dc in it and vice versa. Fasten off your work.
You will now count in 13 (15, 15, 16) st from the other shoulder and join your yarn. Continue working in pattern but over those 13 (15, 15, 16) st for 6 rows (for all sizes) on the second half of the shoulder.


Seaming the Shoulder Seams: You can either sew with your tapestry needle or use your hook and slip stich the front and back shoulder seams together. Place your work wrong side facing you and match up the front and the back shoulders, you will now match stitch for stitch as you assemble them together.
 Repeat for the other shoulder seam.

When you are done place your work back right side facing you.

Sleeves:

Put your stitch marker in the middle st of the 9 (10, 12, 12) skipped st. Join your yarn in the same st as the marker.

It is important to keep with the seed stitch pattern as you begin

Round 1. Round 1: ch1, work in pattern if the st below you is a sc, you will begin with a dc, and vice versa, until you reach the side of your rows, you will pick up a stitch evenly as you go until you reach the shoulder seam, making sure to remember how many stitches you have and picking up the same amount of stitches on the other side,
Remember to keep in pattern as you work this round, sl st with the first st you made and turn your work.

Round 2: (decrease round) ch1, *work in pattern for 8st, You will decrease over the next 4 st, to keep in pattern you will need to make a decrease of 2 stitches twice, one being a dc2tog and the other being a sc2tog, which one you do first all depends on what your next stitch would be in the pattern* Repeat from *to* around, sl st with the ch1 and turn your work.

Round 3-6: ch1 and continue in pattern, sl st with the ch1 and turn your work.

Round 7: (decrease round) ch1, *work in pattern for 16st, you will decrease over the next 4 st, to keep in pattern you will need to make a decrease of 2 stitches twice, one being a dc2tog and the other being a sc2tog, which one you do first all depends on what your next stitch would be in the pattern* Repeat from *to* around sl st with the ch1 and turn your work.

Round 8-26: Ch1, work in pattern around, sl st with the ch1 and turn your work. Round 27: (decrease round) ch1, you will begin your round with a decrease, make 2 decreases over the next 4 st, fold your sleeve in half and place another stitch marker, you will work in pattern up to the 2 st before and work a decrease over those and then another decrease in the next 2 stitches after the stitch maker, work in pattern until you reach the ch1, sl st and turn your work.

Round 28-33: ch1, work in pattern and sl st with the ch1, turn your work.

Round 34: Repeat Round 27.

Continue to work in pattern until your piece measures from the underarm either 1 ½ inches less than your desired arm length or 18 ½” (19 ½ “, 20”, 20 ½”).

Next Round: ch1, *decrease twice over the next 4 st like you have done before, work the next 2 st in pattern* Repeat from *to* around, sl st with the ch and turn your work.

Cuff:
Round 1: ch3, dc in the next 2 st, dc2tog over the next 2 st, *dc in the next 3st, dc2tog over the next 2st* repeat from *to* sl st with the ch3. Do Not turn your work.
Round 2: ch3, dc in each st around, sl st with the ch3 and fasten off.
You will repeat this for the other sleeve.

Collar (for all sizes):

You will join your yarn in the back of your neck, joining it at the left hand side of your collar,
Round 1: ch1, sc along the shoulder edge (remember how many stitches you will have for the other side), then sc along the front neck st, sc along the other shoulder edge and along the back neck edge until you reach the first sc you made sl st with the first st.
 Round 2: ch1, *sc in next 6st, sc2tog* repeat from *to* around your collar, sl st with the first st. Round 3-5: ch1, sc in each st around, sl st with the first st. You can make less or more rounds for your collar depending how wide you want it. Once you are done fasten off and hide all loose tails. You are all done!!!


Written Pattern Translated from Youtube by Michaela Greaves 







All Images and texts are Copyright of AnnooCrochet Designs, unless otherwise stated. Feel free to share but please do not forget to mention your source.Thank you xoxoxoxo